Trip Report: 9 Days in Tokyo Dec 16 – Dec 25


While I know this is a very tardy trip report, I feel like we need a bit of content and distraction from the fact that many people are having to change their plans due to this troubling time.

You can find my itinerary I posted before the trip [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/c29k5t/first_trip_to_japan_8_days_in_tokyo_december_2019/).

First off, let me say that this trip was about proposing to my girlfriend and as a way to celebrate her graduation from college. I am pleased to share she did say yes, thank god, what an awkward twelve hour flight that would have been. Secondly, thank god we went when we did any later and we would have been in creeping into corona time, although the first cases weren’t confirmed til much later.

**The Flights to California**

Let me preface this with the fact that I am not a stranger to flying, but how woefully under prepared I was for the monster that was Los Angeles to Haneda. First was a flight from Orlando to Dallas/Fort Worth. After the flight we had a brisk jog to our next flight. Then was the flight from Dallas to Los Angeles. These short flights were nothing stellar, watched a movie, had noisy kids, the standard. The moment things got interesting was navigating LAX. We had to exit security, just to re-enter it to get to our gate. We just got to the front of the line for our passport when our plane began boarding. We arrived at the gate, and our plane just began seating the economy seating. We were sitting in the very back rows of the plane so I took this chance to try and squeeze money exchange in before we got called. I jogged all the way back up the terminal, and started the process, luckily no one was in front of me. At the very end she asks for my driver’s license. Which is all the way back with my girlfriend at the end of the terminal. After a brisker jog back to retrieve my wallet, I briskest jog back to the exchange counter to finally get my wad of cash. Upon returning to where I left my girlfriend, she is no where to be seen, and our luggage isn’t there, panic sets in. Turns out the check in counter needed to confirm our tickets for some reason and she was at the front desk. After all of that we are some of the last people on the plane, and I’ve worked up a sweat, sorry fellow passengers.

All the flights were one booking, so these close calls were not supposed to even happened.

**The Great Trans-Pacific Flight**

As I said before, I am not new to flying, but this was my first flight across the ocean, and easily my first flight of this length, the second longest flight is only a measly five hours. After getting settled from the running that felt like a marathon, despite me running cross country in high school, we quickly became enraptured by the seemingly royal amenities. Even though we were in the cheapest seats on the plane we were enamored. In flight entertainment that takes longer to scroll through than the flights I took to get this far, games of seemingly unlicensed quality, rather roomy seats and top notch tables. I felt like I was in the lap of luxury. Fast forward six hours and I wanted to be anywhere but on that damned plane. A screen showing our currently location, with an agonizingly slow plane soaring across the Bearing Sea, aching back with no relief, that list of once thought endless entertainment now a monument of disinterest and indecision. The cherry on top was I had been awake for the solid twenty hours to this point. In my foolish attempt to laugh in the face of Kronos and conquer jet lag, I had decided to not sleep on the flight. Luckily, my girlfriend beside me had no such illusions of grandeur, and was managing to get some escape from my anxiety filled presence. The turmoil replaced by giddy excitement as we looked out the window and saw salvation. Twinkling in the distance little golden lights, the surface was in view. Upon landing we were freed from the prison tube, and we were once again powered by our own locomotion.

**Brave New World**

We were here. We had made it, after exiting the plane we quickly made it to customs, after a quick scan of our documents, we were immediately ejected into the baggage claim, very convenient. While waiting for our luggage we were greeted by a worried airport employee with an iPad asking if we were “my last name”. After we confirmed, she began to say that our luggage may not be here, and they may have to ship it to our hotel when it arrives. She is apologetic and doing her best to explain in English. We are completely unfazed, and explain to her it is okay. We ask her if two of the four bags we brought had arrived, she said yes, and we told here then there is nothing to worry about. In preparation for the trip we placed a medium sized bag in our large checked bag so that we would have room for souvenirs and so we didn’t have to surgically repack our bags on the way back. She had a hard time understanding this, as we had four bags assigned. That bit is our fault, we were unsure if we said we only had two bags when we departed we wouldn’t be able to chose four bags when we returned. So when we left Orlando we chose four bags and put the tags on the bags inside our larger bags. Dumb in hindsight, but we were stressed and uncertain. After our bags came around, we promptly opened them up to reveal the missing bags. Relief washed over our friends face and we were off to enjoy our trip.

**Metal Tube Prison 2: Electric Boogaloo**

After acquiring our SIM and Pasmo cards, we made our way to the train. At this time we learned that my suitcase wheels had taken quite the impact during the three flights, because they melted under the constant impacts of the tile floors. I forget the time we finally arrived to get on the train but it must have been rush hour because there was barely enough room for all of the airport passengers to fit in the cabin, at least that is what I thought. I was aware of the famous white gloved people pushers, and was prepared for the worst, but luckily the worst never came. Instead, more and more people piled on the train at every stop, pushing my girlfriend and I further back with our unwieldy luggage. Never to the point were the mythical white gloves were necessary, but definitely tighter than we would have liked. After an eternity and a half in a hot tube filled with meat, we arrived at our stop, Asakusa Station. Foolishly we then hauled our luggage through the station, down stairs, up stairs, down stairs, and then back up, instead of just finding the elevator. After a short walk in the refreshingly cold air we arrived at our [hotel](https://goo.gl/maps/bcX5MSQesf9HL2jA8). After a much needed shower and bath we went to sleep hoping to never endure that level of inconvenience again.

**Day 1: Asakusa**

This day consisted of no trains, the very thought of one at this point would bring cold sweats. Because of proximity of our hotel to the day’s activities, we knew that if we missed stuff today due to jet lag and fatigue we could squeeze things in to any other day. Fortunately my wager paid off, and not an ounce of jet lag was had. We toured the shops, the food stands, the streets, every bit of it was interesting. Fried Chicken from a vendor stall tasted like Guy Fieri himself took me on a personal trip to Flavor Town. We visited the Senso-ji Temple and the Asakusa Shrine. The main Nakamise Street was very touristy and a bit of a let down, but I was glad I saw it and partook in the experience. Two of the best activities of the day was goldfish scooping at [Asakusa Kingyo](https://goo.gl/maps/Uw3m42D9cKMQToZR8) and having EXTREMELY matcha ice cream at [Suzukien Asakusa](https://goo.gl/maps/sSy2zWAHYtPNdY4b70).

**Day 2: Meiji**

Trains are back, but we are scheduling all rides to be during slow times. A quick hop to Harajuku, and after a short walk to the [Meiji Shrine](https://goo.gl/maps/DMucDPrkViNtUAVF6), we are transported to forest within a city. This beautiful walk is a must for anyone interested in Japan’s shrines or temples, truly unique. After our walk through the temple we stop by Yoyogi Park to take a break, then we were off to Takeshita Street. After very little shopping, mostly just there for the spectacle, we head to an Okonomiyaki restaurant for lunch. [Yai Yai](https://g.page/harajukuokonomiyaki?share) is a very English friendly restaurant, with a very friendly owner. All smiles, and wonderful atmosphere will have me coming back if I ever find myself in the neighborhood again.

**Day 3: Ghibli Museum, [Tokyo Tower](https://goo.gl/maps/SUX8cRGLggQc9Q6Z6), and Proposal**

The big day is here, and possibly the greatest source of pre-trip stress. Getting tickets to the museum for our desired time was an ordeal, we almost didn’t get the tickets at all. The upcoming proposal made every moment a mix of sheer panic and delight. After a wonderful morning at the museum, even with a nasty fall onto her butt made by my soon to be fiancee, we made it to our destination for lunch. [The Happy Pancake](https://goo.gl/maps/4LX5zYH7qrrdh6qD7) was a tucked away, third floor nook, where we had our super fluffy Japanese pancake experience. From there we wandered around Kichijoji, and then headed back to Tokyo, for our anticipated trip up the tower. Before our reserved time slot in the tower, we explored [Zojoji Temple](https://goo.gl/maps/ZFEpTYSEwZmbpB2EA), a beautiful grounds just off the base of the tower. When our time finally came we made our way to the tower, wandered the shops, rested a bit, then went of to the top observation deck. I definitely recommend this to anyone looking for a unique, and intimate way to view Tokyo, only a handful of people are allowed up on the top deck at a time, and you still get access the the main deck on the way down. The proposal was a success, I was so nervous, I just snuck the ring out of my pocket and quietly drew her attention to it. Tears we shed, hugs were exchanged, and quick kisses were shared as to not upset the others around. I would actually be surprised if anyone present were even aware of the proposal at all.

**Day 4: Ueno**

I’ll start this off by saying this, I did go to the [Ueno Zoo](https://goo.gl/maps/4tFLdQ3wxCKNAmqy9). While there were many things they could do better, there were many enclosures that were just fine. If you have a bleeding heart for animals or have a general disdain for the concepts of zoos altogether, avoid this zoo. Now that we are past the controversial topic, the [Tokyo National Museum](https://goo.gl/maps/FMWgyRm8BRgWBMhE6) was amazing. A super cheap price for three amazing museums was so worth the time we spent inside them. There was a festival we were unaware of in the park outside the museum, and it was amazing. Food, handmade crafts, and a stage with people showcasing their talents. The [Ameyoko](https://goo.gl/maps/as4Dt83nEeh5kMQf8) market was an interesting experience and definitely worth a walk through if you find yourself nearby.

**Day 5: Shinjuku Garden and Tokyo Metropolitan Building**

The [garden](https://goo.gl/maps/jqddujcnnSvgRHbL9), even in winter was a treat. The tea houses and greenhouse was a wonderful sight. Afterwards we made our way to the [Tokyo Metropolitan Building](https://goo.gl/maps/as4Dt83nEeh5kMQf8), a short elevator ride later and we were treated to a spectacular view, a lovely live piano performance, and a small cafe. At the time the Olympic preparations were in full swing and I took a picture of the Olympic Stadium, later I would find out the picture I took would technically have Usain Bolt in it, even if he isn’t visible. After more shopping and stopping by to see the iconic Hachiko statue, we made the great crossing of the Shibuya Scramble.

**Day 6: Akihabara**

The great pilgrimage was complete. We had made it to Weeb Town, JPN. My fiancee and I do partake in many animated forms of entertainment, and read manga, but we had never been overt with our interests. We mainly came here because we felt obligated, and to pick up some merchandise we couldn’t in the states, or at least not for a reasonable price. We also made a trip to the local shrine before all the stores opened. We intended to visit Tokyo Station after Akihabara, but unfortunately we were short on time, and had to bypass it if we wanted to attend a winter solstice festival that night. Completely packed and crowded, we made our offerings and bought our charms, partook in the food and found ourselves back on the street before we could even process what had happened. It was magical.

**Day 7: Spa Day**

This day was all about getting off our feet, and getting away from the city. We canceled the previous plans to go to the small amusement park next to it in favor of spending a half day at Asakusa to find souviners, buy new suitcases, and explore stuff we missed on the first day. After a train ride that was mostly empty, and one we spent the whole time sitting, we found ourselves at [Toshimaen Niwa No Yu](https://goo.gl/maps/xv3fzgYWWX6QP3eN9). This resort is not tattoo friendly, but you can wear your own bathing suit in the multitude of mixed bathing pools and saunas. This resort also had sleeping rooms, a wonderful restaurant (that we ate at twice), several massage options, and separated traditional baths. After a much needed break we returned back to our hotel.

**Day 8: Tsukiji and Odiaba**

The outer Tsukiji market is still alive and buzzing, the markets were alive with fresh fish, busy isles, and quality goods. If you were thinking of skipping Tsukiji because the main market closed, DON’T. This should still be on your radar if you were interested before, and should still be recommended if you are giving travel advice. Odiaba, not much to say other than its like six large american malls back to back with Japans own flair thrown in, a must if trendy clothes are your thing, and not all the clothes are extra small, but most of them are still going to tend to lean that way. [TeamLab Borderless](https://goo.gl/maps/tgKr9Gf8D7KMPUA56) was an unforgettable experience. If you need a new profile picture, just about every wall will be the perfect back drop. Unfortunately, this is what its kinda known for, good photographs. Don’t get me wrong , I got my fair share of pictures too, but some people will stand for minutes on end trying to get the perfect shot for their social media, and you will get bumped by someone face down in their phone.

**Day 9: There and Back Again**

While this day did not really include an activity, it combined with the hours we spent arriving does technically add up to a ninth day. Instead of getting on the train for an hour ride back to the airport, we opted for a taxi ride. For anyone who has traveled by taxi in Tokyo, you know where this is going. A taxi ride from Asakusa to Haneda, while short by car, quickly racked up a one-hundred dollar fare. Was this worth not having to get crushed into an hour long train ride with luggage? Maybe. Was it worth my new fiancee being happy? Yes.

**So, What Did We Learn?**

Walk less. Sit more.

Don’t get swept with the crowd.

Always have a back up plan for food (70% of my restaurants fell through).

Find the elevator.

Don’t be afraid to try to talk to people.

Take (calculated) risks (every plan that fell through turned into an amazing impromptu experience).

**Conclusion**

This has been a wonderful experience, this report did not include about 50% of what I did in each place, so if you wanted to know about stuff near where I went, Ill let you know if I did it, and how it was. I’ll answer any questions you may have, thank you for coming to my Ted Talk.

11 comments
  1. This was fun to read, it sounds like you had a great trip. I really want to take a trip later this year but worried the virus may cause problems :*(.

  2. reading tourist experiences in japan really brings me back. Sometimes i think i lived here too long.

  3. Oo, this is good stuff. I’m working on a 10 day for *just* Tokyo so this should be useful. Thanks!

  4. What a great trip! Congratulations on your engagement!

    My fiance and I plan on going next year for our honeymoon and we’ve been struggling to find a mixed bathing onsen that’s not to far from the city so we’re taking note of Toshimaen Niwa-no-yu! How was it price wise?

  5. Excellent writeup, and congratulations on your engagement! What a fantastic story to have for the rest of your lives. I completely relate to that doomy feeling halfway through the flight, somewhere over the ocean, dying to be anywhere else. Funny – my takeaways from my first trip were remarkably similar, especially “walk less. sit more.” and “always have a back up plan for food.”

  6. Great trip report! We also had a connection through LAX, which I will never do again. We were luckily able to take the airside bus to get to our next terminal, but the fact that half the terminals aren’t connected via walkway or tram is so stupid. Sorry you had to exit security and re-enter, that’s such a hassle. I don’t know why one of the world’s biggest airport hubs has such an archaic connection system. Glad you made your flight and had an otherwise great trip, and congrats on the engagement!

  7. For the restaurant I only had a few that was must visit. The rest we just walked into whatever caught my eyes or the flavor of the day was. As of result, we discovered there was a bunch of decent places inside the Akihabara UDX building.

    The few others we went to we ended up elbow to elbow with a bunch of salarymen, it was an very interesting experience so definitely leave room on your restaurant itinerary.

  8. Lessons gained for others.

    There’s never a need to exchange currency before arrival as ATMs are plentiful on arrival.

    Staying up 20 hours to try to defeat jet lag may not be the best strategy.

    4 suitcases for a 9 day trip is a bit much. And if you plan to buy a lot of stuff to take home you can find plenty of cheap suitcases in Tokyo.

    Most stations have elevators.

  9. The proposal bit is so romantic, I would try it with my GF when we are at Tokyo Tower next year haha

  10. Sounds like an amazing trip. I miss Japan and all of their Kit Kats. Random question but did you ever require a need for gloves at all during the trip because it was cold? The fiancee and I are going next year for late nov – early dec. I only ask because my buddy and I went a few years back we couldn’t find gloves anywhere we went unless it was a specialty store like Marmot.

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