Trip Report! 13th – 28th Feb – Tokyo, Hiroshima, Kyoto, Osaka (then Tokyo again!)

So I wasn’t planning to do a report, but considering the pandemic I figure it’s good to have some positive stuff for those planning their trips for the future. Also this sub was super useful for picking up recommendations, so hopefully some can be taken from this report! It was a pretty standard first trip when it came to destinations, but hey those places are popular for a reason right. Had an amazing time, and could easily do the same places again and see loads of stuff I missed.

I’m a solo traveller, 32/M from UK. Must have taken a couple of thousand photos (took two lenses, but mainly ended up using my 16-200mm exclusively) so have just picked a few for this post.

**General stuff**

* Corona virus stuff. So from a purely selfish standpoint I went at the perfect time. Way fewer foreign tourists than usual so places were quieter, but the virus wasn’t as serious then so everywhere was still open. More masks than usual and hand sanitizer everywhere. On the final couple of days of my trip places were starting to close, but I didn’t miss out on anything. I booked this trip around September last year though, so I was pretty much just lucky.
* Don’t overdo it! Make peace with the fact you’ll miss stuff. It’s fine, you’ll most likely do another trip. Take the time to enjoy the places you’re going properly, and enjoy just being in a new place while you walk around. Also don’t feel guilty about spending time just people watching in a cafe or relaxing in your hostel. It’s all part of the experience.
* Don’t be too worried about the language barrier. I learned a bit more than the usual greetings/thanks etc. but didn’t use much. Generally people will know what they need for their line of work (shops will know how to ask for tax free, take out etc. in English at least), and anything else you can figure out by pointing, gesturing etc. That said, the little I did learn was good for the odd little chats you find yourself in on trains, in hotels, bars and so on. So if you can learn a bit, great! If not, don’t worry.
* Walk everywhere. I did the ‘get off a stop early’ pretty often and walked back to my hostel/hotel most nights if the walk was around or under an hour. Tokyo especially is full of cool random shit you’ll never see by sticking to the main areas. But also have good shoes! I picked up some [Vans Ultrarange](https://www.vans.co.uk/shop/en/vans-gb/2-tone-ultrarange-rapidweld-shoes-vn0a3mvuxv9) for the trip and they were amazing.
* Eat and drink plenty! Not just because it’s tasty, but because you’ll more than likely be walking way more than you’re used to and it’s easy for hours to go past quickly without realising. I had a couple of early afternoons feeling slightly lightheaded before stopping to scarf down some food and feeling much better.
* I found that the unreserved seats on the shinkansen were basically empty anytime I used them. Now I wasn’t in peak tourist time and the virus meant less tourists so take it with a pinch of salt, but don’t panic if you can’t reserve a seat.

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**Thursday 13th/Friday 14th – Flight and Tokyo**

Mostly taken up by the flight. I went from Manchester, via Munich into Tokyo Haneda. Would definitely recommend grabbing a ticket to your [local airport lounge](https://imgur.com/v3aeFxz) before your trip, unlimited food and drinks was a cool way to start the trip and really quiet and relaxing compared to the terminal. Flight to Munich was via Lufthansa, then ANA from Munich to Tokyo. Great service from both, especially ANA when it came to food and overall experience. Had a good chat with one of the cabin crew (she was from Kyoto, mentioned the reduction in tourism due to the virus) whilst approaching Tokyo and got a little ANA care package too.

There was temperature monitoring via a thermal cam when going through customs, and had a slight panic moment when I got pulled aside to have a forehead scan. Luckily it was just the 11 hours in a warm plane and the long ass walk from the gate that had me a bit sweaty, so passed through without issue. Grabbed the usual bits (rail pass, suica, pocket Wi-Fi) and took the monorail to my hostel – [Wise Owls Tokyo](https://wiseowlhostels.com/tokyo/). Arrived around 6pm and was determined not to fall asleep, but turns out travelling for nearly 20 hours and not sleeping on the plane makes you pretty tired. Woke up just after 11pm and had a walk around for a couple of hours, followed by some random 7/11 snacks then went to bed around 2am.

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**Saturday 15th – Asakusa, Ginza, Jinbocho**

Woke up around 6am and headed to [Asakusa](https://imgur.com/qpPn7bg) to wander around and visit [Senso-ji before it got busy](https://imgur.com/eKtHnWw). Realised it might be a little *too* early as nothing was open for a couple of hours, [but it was a beautiful morning](https://imgur.com/vNzXQyT) so just walking for a while with the city waking up was nice. Grabbed some breakfast before visiting [Mokuhankan](https://mokuhankan.com/) for a wood block printing party. Was just [myself and a friendly couple from South Africa](https://imgur.com/6O8C1a7), but was really fun and the staff give you a pretty great insight into the history of the printing process. You get to keep [the print you make](https://imgur.com/iaZEIUz) and I bought another too. Recommended!

Ventured into the local Don Quijote after some random street snacks at Senso-ji for lunch, but quickly realised I’d be best saving it for my final couple of days back in Tokyo when I’d be doing my souvenir shopping. Also I think my travel addled brain might have had a bit of a seizure with the amount of lights and jingles and stuff happening.

Afternoon plan was originally to head to the Edo museum, but my pocket Wi-Fi decided it didn’t want to charge. Rather than be stuck with no internet I had to head back to Haneda to swap it as the desks in the city weren’t open on weekends. Gave past me a big pat on the back for not booking a flight into Narita.

Took a train back to Jinbocho ([with a detour via Ginza to check out the closed weekend streets](https://imgur.com/NNPwGiE)) with the plan to do a couple of hours looking through old bookshops for interesting stuff, but was a little too tired. Food at Yoshinoya, then back to the hostel with plans for a chill evening with other travellers but common area was pretty dead. My brain appreciated the early night though.

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**Sunday 16th – Ghibli Museum, Open Air Edo Museum, Kichijoji, Shinjuku**

Another early start! Dropped my bigger bag off at Akasaka station as I was switching my hostel to [Kaisu](http://kaisu.jp/) a couple of minutes away later in the day (really good, stay here if you can.) Train then over to Kichijoji station and a relaxing morning walk through [Inokashira park](https://imgur.com/7p328Cl) before the Ghibli Museum. Was a very pleasant way to spend a morning, small but super charming and grabbed a few bits from the gift shop and some lunch from the cafe.

After lunch spent an hour or so walking to the Tokyo Edo Open Air Museum. Small town Tokyo was super nice to wander round, especially with even less tourists than usual. The museum was great, was worried it might be a bit too dry but the [variations in buildings](https://imgur.com/GWfXEGS) are neat and the reconstructed stores are [super cool](https://imgur.com/zaddPtZ). Staff were also great, even if only a couple spoke English. Sat with a couple of old lads who were volunteering and drank roasted tea made over an open fire in a reconstructed 17th century farmhouse, and just about managed a conversation through the odd word and hand signals, was brilliant. Another hour or so walk back to Musashi-Koganei station and jumped off at Jinbocho again to catch the [lights at dusk](https://imgur.com/cOdpxqQ). Picked up some awesome donuts at Hara donuts, then back to the hostel for a nap.

After dodging plenty of touts I met up in [Shinjuku](https://imgur.com/OEyKaCs) and Golden Gai with some folks from the japantravel line group, and we got chatting to another American guy who lived in Tokyo. I would do a longer bit here, but my memory goes hazy at around 2am. I remember [karaoke with Australians](https://imgur.com/yIHKpBO), [locals buying us drinks](https://imgur.com/aRBIiRZ) then stumbling onto a train around 7am. Fucking brilliant night.

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**Monday 17th – Sleeeeeeeeeeeep, Roppongi Hills**

Oof. Woke up around 1pm then again around 4pm. Wasn’t feeling my best so went with the best hangover cure there is even when you’re on the other side of the world – McDonalds. It tastes EXACTLY THE SAME. But also made me feel alive again, along with some combini chicken and a few Pocari Sweats. Met up with a few of the guys from the night before again in Roppongi Hills, but it was super quiet everywhere we went. Had a few beers at a couple of different bars but they had to grab the last train back, so went for a solo midnight wander over to [Tokyo Tower](https://imgur.com/sRksbZh), then back over to my hostel.

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**Tuesday 18th – Odaiba, Harajuku, Shibuya**

Morning train to over to the east of the city for the first slot in the day with Teamlab Planets. A short but very cool experience, definitely recommended (no spoilers!). Couple of hours of walking over the various man made islands in the area, really nice morning again so some [great views](https://imgur.com/rtQPypn) of [the city](https://imgur.com/iROewjf).

Lunch in the Diver City shopping centre and spent a bit of time marvelling at the [Unicorn Gundam statue](https://imgur.com/VCNe48c). Listen, I’m a nerd and giant robots speak to me, but even if you’re not super into Gundam this thing is [fucking cool](https://imgur.com/EItf4kQ). Try and make one of the [transformation times to get hype](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aac2YtcwuAn2I7Me4V8JD-3wIRU6YBLL/view?usp=sharing).

Train over to the other side of the city and visited [Meiji Jingu](https://imgur.com/eCumCqm). [Very impressive](https://imgur.com/jKrGfjL), and as always the ‘go one path away from the main bit’ rule applied. Walk two minutes from the shrine through the park and there is no one there. Super relaxing, and cool to be able to only hear the trees even though you’re in the middle of Tokyo. Followed it up with the total opposite, a walk through Harajuku and over to [Shibuya](https://imgur.com/sbXQ7yc). Was supposed to be on a shopping ban until my return to Tokyo, but the stickers in B-Side were too much of a draw. Staff were awesome here too! Mention you’re a tourist and you’ll get some freebies with your purchases.

After some exploring of Shibuya I walked the hour or so back to my hostel, some awesome little shops and houses in the backstreets on the way back. Food at some random ramen place then a couple of beers in the hostel bar before bed.

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**Wednesday 19th – Shinkansen to Hiroshima**

Up nice and early for the first train to Hiroshima, with a changeover at Shin-Kobe. Got chatting to a guy on the second train who worked for a lumber business. Very affluent, old school dude with some questionable traditional views on ‘men at work, family at home’ but who was also self-aware and very funny. Exchanged line info and he offered to buy me dinner when I was in Kyoto later in the trip. Never took him up on the offer and super regretted it, can imagine it would have been a better meal than I could have ever afforded! [Also got a fantastic view of Mt. Fuji on the way](https://imgur.com/qOdrsKr).

Arrived in Hiroshima in the early afternoon and dropped my bag off at the hostel ([Akicafe, another nice place right next to the station.](https://akicafe.co.jp/en/)) Spend the rest of the day walking through the city to the [peace park](https://imgur.com/pxP82nb) and museum. No pictures inside obviously, it’s a pretty intense place but [definitely worth a visit](https://imgur.com/5GxVOq0). Wandered over to [Hiroshima castle](https://imgur.com/d1Biucy) and the [gardens](https://imgur.com/PGdxY5H) before heading back to the hostel for an early evening nap.

Woke up hungry so got [Okonomiyaki at Tampopo](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Okonomiyaki+Teppanyaki+Tampopo/@34.3946226,132.4801709,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x1e9fb00d94a985ba!8m2!3d34.3946226!4d132.4801709). Super cool little family run place, they have [maps and books](https://imgur.com/LVPVgIU) where foreign visitors can put a little sticker and message showing where they’re from (I’m the blue at the top left!). Also [Okonomiyaki](https://imgur.com/Edw1MaX) was probably my favourite thing I ate from the whole trip. So much so I bought a couple of the Hiroshima Gacha pods to make sure I got the [mini Okonomiyaki set](https://imgur.com/y73UE1O)!

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**Thursday 20th – Miyajima & Kyoto**

Spent the morning and most of the afternoon on [Miyajima](https://imgur.com/49caCCK). It really reminds you that you’re actually in the pacific and places can look pretty tropical even in winter. Unfortunately the ropeway was closed and I didn’t have the time to hike to the top of the mountain, but it’s a [gorgeous little island](https://imgur.com/6bsXDT3). Main areas were pretty busy with (mostly) Japanese tourists, but again walk 2 minutes off the beaten path and you’re basically alone. Loads of little [foresty areas](https://imgur.com/esDpxnd) and [shrines to visit](https://imgur.com/49TQXHw). Also the deer are [chill and cute as fuck.](https://imgur.com/ltCWGgL)

Wish I’d budgeted more time for Hiroshima, but had to catch my train up to Kyoto. Arrived around 7pm and checked into my hostel ([Mosaic, a little out of the city centre but another good place](http://mosaichostel.jp/mosaic-hostel-kyoto/)). Had a wander around the local big Aeon Mall and a little into Kyoto itself. Coco for a late dinner as a lot of places were closed, then back just after midnight.

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**Friday 21st – Toji Park, Nishiki Market, Shrines!**

I was lucky enough to be in town for the Toji Flea Market, so headed down early. Was already pretty busy around 9 ish, and spent a few hours browsing the stalls, speaking to stall owners and eating various delicious things. Didn’t buy much, but found a guy selling old postcards and retro stamps and stuff so grabbed a few of those. Go here if you’re in Kyoto at the right time, it’s a great way to spend a few hours. Stayed in Toji for a bit and wandered around the [gardens and the big pagoda](https://imgur.com/Lb34nuM) before heading into Kyoto proper.

Another couple of hours scoffing snacks and street food in Nishiki Market, although didn’t go for the sparrows on sticks. Loads of shopping streets in this area, so spent a good couple of hours wandering around. Also, calling out [Karaage Umeshin](https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g298564-d3882042-Reviews-Kyoto_Karaage_Umeshin-Kyoto_Kyoto_Prefecture_Kinki.html) because it’s easily the best fried chicken I’ve ever had. I had the plum salt flavouring and was thinking about it the rest of the trip.

Walked for a bit over to [Heian Shrine](https://imgur.com/xVUdndU), super quiet despite it [being another amazing day](https://imgur.com/EgMiPRh). The gardens were [gorgeous](https://imgur.com/BZE1RrW) despite the lack of foliage in winter, can imagine they look insane in spring or autumn. Managed to get to [Nanzen-Ji](https://imgur.com/P6kMW5T) before it closed, another stunning area that shows how quickly Kyoto goes from bustling city to quiet woodlands.

Headed back for an early evening nap then headed out to wander Ponto-cho and some of the other cool little backstreets by night. Couple of beers and some food but not a super late night, back just before midnight.

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**Saturday 22nd – Fushimi Inari, Train Museum**

Got to [Fushimi](https://imgur.com/1bydakV) just before the Goshuin office opened around 8:30am, was already a fair few people there but no massive hordes so managed to get [that picture everyone takes](https://imgur.com/nJuMPWL)! Did the hike to the top and back down, definitely gets quieter as you head up the trail and it was mostly locals heading to [specific shrines](https://imgur.com/EXMBjqD) along the trail to pray.

Had plans for Gion and the surrounding area for the rest of the day but started raining super heavily. [Train museum](https://imgur.com/IgzjeL2) was my backup plan for any rainy days so headed there. I’m not specifically a train nerd or anything, but the history of the railways was really interesting and there’s plenty to see. Good English support through their app too, and [nice views from the roof](https://imgur.com/90w1Hl9). The gift shop here was NUTS. Train people are obviously on a mission and the shop was cramped as fuck with people rushing around not caring who they pushed out the way.

Dinner at [Chao Chao Gyoza](https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g298564-d7438346-Reviews-Chao_Chao_Sanjo_Kiyamachi-Kyoto_Kyoto_Prefecture_Kinki.html) (happy hour set and a couple of extra drinks obvs) before heading back to the hostel. Was a pretty busy few days so just relaxed at the hostel before heading for an early night.

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**Sunday 23rd – Osaka**

Later start (relatively) than usual today, but was on the train to Osaka by around 10am. Another bag drop ready for my hostel check in ([The Stay Shinsaibashi](https://www.thestay.jp/osaka/en/), very nice and modern). Wandered through the shopping area to Dotonbori, snacking on various things along the way. Indulged my Yakuza 0 fandom a bit on the [bridge and the surrounding area](https://imgur.com/UmbfZV3) before taking a train to the Kaiyukan Aquarium.

I. LOVED. THIS. [Fish are cool](https://imgur.com/Irq9OEw), but what’s cooler is a [giant tank filled with a simulated ocean](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1brCJ9kpwOF1mS8glcxPpKWR_UKyoehYU/view?usp=sharing). Must have spent at least 4 or 5 hours here, then another good 45mins in the gift shop at the end. If you’re even slightly interested in nature or animals take the time to go to the aquarium. You might have to wait for your time slot but the shopping centre next door has plenty to to and eat while you wait.

Headed back to the hostel (via another B-Side stop, love those stickers) for my patented early evening nap. Got some dinner and met up with a couple of folks from the line group for what was supposed to be just a couple of drinks. Obviously that turned into [karaoke](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aDZnimnbZY985wELP6giyyQ3_mAdAH_B/view?usp=sharing) (several drinks in is the only time you’ll get me singing Maroon 5), being squished into the tiniest bar with 20 other people and 4am and drinks in some random tiki bar a drunk New Zealander told us about where the owner made me some kind of alcoholic slushie. Super fun!

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**Monday 24th – Sumiyoshi Taisha, Osaka Castle**

Chill morning (no hangover, result) in the hostel doing some laundry and sorting out my bags, before heading out to Sumiyoshi shrine. Wasn’t anything super special, but had a pretty open day on my itinerary so wasn’t in a rush to be anywhere. Ate some Takoyaki in the park next to the station before an hour or so in the shrine itself. Wouldn’t go out of your way to come here but the [bridge is pretty](https://imgur.com/l5JSLMN), and I needed an Osaka stamp for my Goshuin.

Took the tram back to town after some help from the station guards in finding the platform (the one time google maps let me down!). I’ve seen some folks say the reconstructed castles aren’t worth visiting, but I would totally disagree. Yeah they’ve been rebuilt, but they’re still [incredibly impressive](https://imgur.com/t3ikKCS) and have good exhibits inside if you’re into your history. Also a nice time of day late in the afternoon for some [nice views](https://imgur.com/gZWl6rD) of [Osaka from the top](https://imgur.com/MbiwLHF).

My original plan was one final night in Osaka before getting the first train to Tokyo in the morning, but by this point I was craving a hotel room after nearly 2 weeks of hostels (FYI I’m nearly 6ft 3, so even the best of those pods were limited for space). Changed my plans and jumped on a train back to Tokyo, obviously not before grabbing a [meal for the journey](https://imgur.com/vRBwRGS). I felt like a fucking genius when I got into the hotel room and was able to just dump my stuff, have a shower in my own bathroom and sprawl out on the bed. Stayed at the [Hotel Route-inn Grand Tokyo-Asakusabashi](https://www.booking.com/hotel/jp/route-inn-grand-asakusabashi.en-gb.html), which was insanely good value and a way bigger room than expected. Had initial plans to venture out for food but was so relaxed I was done for the night.

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**Tuesday 25th – Shibuya, Shinjuku, Nakano, Akihabara**

Back to Tokyo! I had always planned a couple of final days to fill in some of the gaps from the first few days and finally do a shit load of shopping.

First off was a visit to A Happy Pancake in Shibuya, with a final meetup from the line group. Everyone I met on the trip was super friendly, and with 5 of us meeting for pancakes we each got a different version and shared them out. They were all amazing, and [definitely lived up to the hype](https://imgur.com/EjofSHg).

Then shopping! Parco center was great for video game stuff, with the Nintendo, Pokemon and Capcom stores being the standouts. Then Loft, Tokyu Hands, Village Vanguard, Don Quijoite, etc. etc. Endless places to go if you have the time. Also made a trip to Nakano Broadway, but think this would be better if you have some specific stuff you’re looking for as there are lots of little shops with shit loads of stuff in each.

Went back to the hotel and dumped a few bags of stuff before grabbing a train to [Akihabara](https://imgur.com/HAKLTqa). Was pretty late by this point so spent a bit of time in the arcades, didn’t win any crane prizes but played plenty of rhythm games. Then finally off to Don Quijote at midnight for a suitcase to put everything I was buying in!

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**Wednesday 26th – Akihabara, Skytree**

The last day 🙁 I spent the majority of the morning and afternoon trawling Akihabara and the various nerdy shops. Got some FF7R stuff in Kotobukiya, a bunch of Gundam after being paralyzed by choice in Yodobashi and Bic Camera, a Monster Hunter figure I had been hunting for years in Madarake and countless other cool stuff. Went to a bunch of video game shops too but didn’t actually pick anything up, which was probably the right choice considering the state of my luggage on the way back.

Quick stop at the hotel to dump everything before heading over to the Skytree. Didn’t realise the shopping centre at the base was so massive, so spent an hour or so in the various shops and places to eat while waiting for just before sunset to head up the tower. Got the best of both worlds, the city just as the sun was setting and then the view of the lights and night. It was a bit misty but still a [totally amazing view of Tokyo](https://imgur.com/0qvp7aG).

I was lucky enough to visit when the Final Fantasy VII Remake collab was happening, and wandering around the upper level of the Skytree surrounded by [props and exhibits](https://imgur.com/5vJOBuc) with the soundtrack playing and was super cool. Narrowly avoided dropping £60 on the fancy soundtrack vinyls in the pop up shop, but grabbed a [Cloud](https://imgur.com/NUBHGqK) drink ([apparently he’s pineapple flavour?](https://imgur.com/piwwDPq)). Back down to the main viewing area to catch the little [FFVIIR video they had projected on the windows](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_EgywS02avLrDiiNyWvEzWaLAli47-fO/view?usp=sharing) before calling it a night, with [one last nice view](https://imgur.com/Z5Cb5Yd).

Super tired by this point, so one final Coco curry trip (chicken and sausage eff the haters) and back to the hotel to pack up my mountain of stuff.

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**Thursday 27th – Flight home :(**

So glad I left shopping to the last couple of days, as I went from a backpack and small holdall to those plus a giant suitcase and one extra big shopping bag. Early train to Haneda, check in and spend the last of my Suica credit on some snacks. Haneda has a good viewing area, so spent some time there before the shops opened, and also had to get the special [Pikachu in a cabin crew](https://imgur.com/2yQjL3k) costume. Crammed some final souvenirs into my carry on before heading home!

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Well that ended up being longer than I thought. Hopefully this was helpful or at least worth reading, it was fun to reminisce about my trip and remind myself of all the places I need to add to my list for the next time!