We (a family of 4, me, my wife, and two kids 13, and 16) just returned from a 14 day trip to Japan. We mainly toured Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto but the focus of this report will be how we did it, and not necessarily where we went. I’m sure other people can cover things to do and see in those cities much better than me, but some may be interested in how we did it, to wit: stay for multiple days in a hotel and making a series of day trips, utilizing the JR Pass.
Our days in Osaka and Kyoto were like many others, and I don’t think I can contribute anything new, so on to the next. We activated our JR Pass on our last day in Osaka and traveled to Tokyo. We had splurged on the Green pass and I’m quite satisfied with the experience. Compared to the amenities of the regular cars that I could glean through the windows, the Green cars were more spacious and comfortable, with ample legroom and greater recline. It seems less occupied as well, making our trips (even an epic almost 11 hour roundtrip journey to Hakodate) at least bearable if not enjoyable.
The day after the JR activation, I met up with my brother and niece in Tokyo, so it was a wasted day as far as the JR Pass. But the Tsukiji Outer Market, the teamLab Planets, Odaiba, and Shibuya Sky made for a full, fun-filled day. Our experience at the Tsukiji was just okay. It heavily caters to the tourists, which I realize that we’re in no position to complain. But if you’re looking for a *unique* experience, it’s not really it. We enjoyed the teamLab experience and Odaiba. My brother bowed out of the Shibuya Sky, leaving me with two extra tickets, but we ran into a nice couple from Puerto Rico and we offered them the tickets for free.
5 JR Pass days left…
6/15: We went to Niigata. Why Niigata? Why not. The Shinkansen trip was uneventful and we go to Niigata Station shortly before noon. We took a taxi to Minato Marche Pier Bandai (MMPB) for some breakfast and had a much better experience than we had at the Tsukiji market. The seafood was just as fresh, but with no crowd and a much more [reasonable prices](https://imgur.com/Wi63ejW). The MMPB is an enclosed market, with vendors offering fresh produce as well as [seafood](https://imgur.com/tesWZJJ). It looks like we can check out at any register, even though different vendors run the stalls, so feel free to get a basket, browse the entire place, and check out when you’re ready. The [oysters](https://imgur.com/vr3NHIB) in particular were very good.
We attempted to walk to the Befco Observation Deck, but mindful of how early places close in Japan, we too a taxi to the Niigata Aquarium. It’s a mid-size aquarium, pretty on par with the Chattanooga Aquarium if you’re familiar with it. We killed about an hour and half browsing through it. And went to Hakusan Shrine, but first stopped by Popolo, an excellent ice cream place by the aquarium. Try the strawberry. It’s amazing. Thus I was able to bribe my wife and daughter into walking to the Hakusan Shrine. On the way, we walked through what looked like a typical Japanese suburbia, which for a tourist like me, is interesting, even if it’s anything but that to the people actually living there.
[Hakusan Shrine](https://imgur.com/G34Fnt7) is definitely worth a visit, although by the end of our trip, all the shrines kind of run together. I think it’s a popular site for the traditional Japanese wedding, and had a place [dedicated](https://imgur.com/neNoHm5) for it. Don’t miss the giant [red tori gate.](https://imgur.com/PeE6p4O) At this point, it was past 5 and most of the attractions were closing up. So we elected to return to the Niigata station and change our return reservation to an earlier one. We got on the [almost empty car](https://imgur.com/SUVkVD8) and had a fast, [comfortable](https://imgur.com/OuZ9EKu) and uneventful trip back to Tokyo.
Day trip index: 5/5 for convenience. The transit time clocking just over 2 hours, it’s a real convenient place to day trip. However, once there, there’s not much things to do so maybe not a place we’re itching to return any time soon, so the Fun Factor is 2/5.
6/16: We had a 3PM ticket for the Grand Warehouse at the Ghibli Park. We got to Nagoya around 11AM. We could have gotten there earlier and toured some of the sites in Nagoya itself, but wrangling the family in the morning and out of the very comfortable hotel was hard. The train to the Park took about an hour as well so plan accordingly. We had about 2 hours before the Warehouse entry, so we wandered around the [Aichii Park](https://imgur.com/CWb6ARZ) after entering it via the [elevator tower](https://imgur.com/cKVn7eI). It’s worth the steps. It helped that it was a [gorgeous day](https://imgur.com/Z0sy6is), belying the rainy season designation. At various places around the park are [features](https://imgur.com/WgF0T9X) from the Ghibli movies, The Warehouse was fun and the kids had a good time. Be aware that the gift shop keeps the same hours as the park. And when 5PM hits, they’re literally shooing the customers out of the shop. It seems to me that this shop has some exclusive products I did not see at other Ghibli shops scattered around Japan, mainly large plushies. In retrospect, I wish I had grabbed more than 1 giant Catbus. All I can say is visit various Ghibli Shops before you trip to the Park and grab what you haven’t seen before.
Day trip index: 4/5 for convenience. It’s only about 2 hours to Nagoya and you can certainly make a fruitful day trip out of it. But factor in the additional hour and back from the park, it starts being pretty tight. But if you’re willing to wake up early and catch the last Shinkansen back, you could squeeze it to 5/5. As the the Fun factor, its Ghibli. If you like Ghibli, there’s no way it can be anything other than [5/5.](https://imgur.com/p6cMESf)
6/17: We had the Pokemon Cafe reservation at 8PM so we decided to stick close. I had planned on Yokohama, but at the last minute, switched to Enoshima. It was another [gorgeous day](https://imgur.com/B5fOJJn) and I thought it’d be a waste not to spend it near the sea. The [weather](https://imgur.com/KKAjB6R) didn’t disappoint and we even saw [Mt. Fuji](https://imgur.com/HgtKnx9) in the distance. We took the [Narita Express](https://imgur.com/gkejWJO) to Oofuna, and the [elevated monorail](https://imgur.com/SUv8I6V) to Shounan-Enoshima. Enoshima was wonderful but let me warn you about taking the ferry. The ferry will pick you up near the bridge to the island and will drop you off near the caves on the other side of the island, but from there, it’s straight up to near the highest point of the island. You will climb a lot of stairs. From the bridge side of the island, you can get on the strategically placed escalators to save you some effort. I didn’t mind, but I saw plenty of people struggling.
Day trip index: 5/5 for convenience. We got to the island in under 2 hours, I think. There’s plenty to do around the Shounan-Enoshima station. You could walk to ride the local train a couple station down to the crossing made famous in the OP of the Slam Dunk anime. I would recommend walking to the island from the station. It’s not far and you’ll see some interesting sites. We really enjoyed it here, so 5/5 for Fun.
6/18: I didn’t have my fill of Kyoto so I told the family to relax at the hotel (my family’s [reaction] (https://youtu.be/v4gulV8imrE?t=6) after the arduous climbing the previous day) and I took a solo trip to Kyoto. I too the earliest train and booked the latest return. I basically made a circuit. After getting out at the Kyoto Station, I took the local line to Fushimi Inari and speedwalked to the top through the famous tori gates, making the summit about about 40 minutes. It might seem like a waste of a sightseeing opportunity, but I really enjoy the exertion. Took a little longer coming down, and took some pictures, but didn’t linger, because I had other places to go and more importantly, I forgot the pack cash and I needed to find a 7/11. From Fushimi Inari, I walked to the Kiyomizudera, hitting anything that looked like a shrine or a temple in-between. And then to Yasaka Shrine, also stopping by at anything that held my interest. Then walk to the Nishiki Market and then to Kyoto International Manga Museum. I had planned on visiting the Imperial Palace, but at this point, time was running out. Swinging south toward the station, I made my final stop at the [Higashi Hongan-ji](https://imgur.com/yMGbyFb) but it was after 5:30PM at that point and it was closed. I was going to visit a day onsen before I got on my train, but decided to go to the station instead. I ate at a ramen shop and did some souvenir shopping for the hotel concierge/front and the executive lounge staff who were incredibly kind and professional and finally slid into my seat on the return Shinkansen.
Day trip index: 3.5/5. Kyoto is really pushing it for the day trip. Osaka would be worse, not only because it’d take longer to get to Shin-Osaka, but it’s additional 40-45 minutes to the interesting parts of Osaka from there. A lot of the attractions closig at 5-5:30 means that you really have to hustle. But as for the Fun factor, it’s Kyoto. 5/5. It’s better if you’re staying there for a few days but it’s certainly day-tripable. But prepare to do a lot of walking. I clocked in around 43,000 steps that day and a lot of it climbing.
6/19: Now for the maybe stupid part of the day trip itinerary: Tokyo to Hakodate, Hokkaido day trip. Hakodate is around 880km or 540 miles and takes over 4 hours each way with the Shinkansen. Normally, it’s not a day trip candidate. But I wanted to do it because riding the train and seeing the Japanese countryside, even from a speeding bullet train, sounded fun for me. And it was, surprisingly. The Green JR Pass came in handy here. And the 4 hours and some change on the Shinkansen was actually pretty comfortable. I obviously booked the earliest departure and the latest return, and it managed to give me about 6 hours in Hakodate, which I think is plenty to see some key sites in Hakodate. I would obviously miss the famous night view from the Mt. Hakodate, but the trip was enjoyable in its own way. One word of caution: several cruise ships stop at Hakodate. When we were there, one of the Princess cruise line’s ship was there, inundating the area with tourists. I know, I’m one of those dirty tourist myself but at times, I thought I was back home at Walmart. The famous Hakodate Morning Market was… okay. It was odd that my best and favorite seafood market experience was at the humble, tourist-empty Niigata. But I enjoyed the [king crab](https://imgur.com/VemLnem), some [tendon](https://imgur.com/WjyRiaQ), [seafood don](https://imgur.com/utqdoBm), [crab bun](https://imgur.com/6Xtuzvn), and [ice cream](https://imgur.com/cC7Dsoz). And I enjoyed an [incredible weather](https://imgur.com/VTcKSie) again. Rainy season> What rainy season?
Day trip index: 3/5. You gotta ask yourself. Is 6 hours in Hakodate worth the 11 hours of train time? To me, it was. If I had planned it better, I think I would have seen more sites in Hakodate by renting a bicycle. The earliest Shinkansen gets you in time to enjoy the morning market (I think the morning market runs to 1 or 2PM and I got to Hakodate at 11:30AM or so) and you can explore the city after eating. I didn’t particularly enjoy getting to the Shinkansen with about 5 minutes to spare, but that’s travel for you. Fun factor: 3/5. You can quickly exhaust things to see and explore in Hakodate unless you can somehow expand your reach. I think the bicycle is the answer. Maybe go to the Mt. Hakodate via the cable car first and then bike, because getting up the hill is no joke. Whoever thought to put the cable car station **HALFWAY** up the mountain instead of at the **BOTTOM** needs to have his head examined.
That filled the 5 days available on my JR Pass, the first day having been used to get to Tokyo from Osaka and the second day in Tokyo with my brother. All those days (and the subsequent days) were spent in the same hotel, making packing and unpacking not an issue. We only had to pack 3 times during our 14 days. One time from one hotel to another in Osaka, and then from Osaka to Tokyo, and then home. Each time we had to pack and unpack, a substantial portion of the day was wasted, so I feel that the time saved there was an acceptable price to pay for the increased travel time to our destination. And I think this can only be done from Tokyo, being centrally located, and from as closed to Shinagawa, Tokyo, and Ueno as possible. We were close to Shimbashi (10 minute walk from the hotel near Shiodome station) and then 5 minutes to Tokyo, and maybe 5 minutes to getting on the Shinkansen. Closer to Tokyo station would lessen those numbers.
A big factor I didn’t not think of prior to this is how many Japanese shops and attractions close around 5PM. So a more careful planning is required, concentrating those sites in the morning and the early afternoon, and shopping and eating to the late afternoon/early evening, even if it involves some backtracking. We took more taxi than I planned but I didn’t think it was that expensive. In some cases, taxi makes more sense. Getting the entire family to the Osaka Castle from the hotel on a taxi came out not much more expensive than taking the train.
With the impending JR Pass price increase, all this may be moot. But it made sense for us to take day trips from a central location. It saved the time associated with packing/unpacking and traveling to a new location. It put my mind at ease that at the end of the day, I didn’t have to worry about getting to a new place the next day and I could just plop down on a chaise lounge and admire the excellent night view from the hotel window. I ran the numbers before but forgot the exact figure; I think the cost of all the trips came out to around $800. I think I paid $1200 for the passes so I came out ahead. But more importantly, I had fun and it made the trips worthwhile.