Deciding between Hakone or Kanazawa en-route to Osaka

Hi all! I will be solo traveling to Japan for 9 nights at the end of August and am looking for some advice on which city I should visit visit en-route from Tokyo to Osaka. This will be my first time in Japan, so I’d like to optimize my trip to have a well-rounded experience while also limiting extraneous travel time. I’ve been researching for a few weeks and have a general itinerary in mind but am having trouble deciding which town I should stop in on my way from Tokyo to Osaka (or if I should stop at all). I’ve outlined my potential itineraries below along with the pros and cons of each one as I see it:

* Option 1- Hakone
* D1 – land in Tokyo 3:20pm, explore Tokyo, **stay in capsule hotel in Tokyo**
* D2- early train to Hakone, Hakone ropeway, Open-Air Museum, Onsen, **stay at Kansuiro Annex Ryokan in Hakone**
* D3- train to Osaka after breakfast, arrive in Osaka early afternoon, spend rest of the day around Dotonburi/Namba, **stay in Namba neighborhood in Osaka**
* D4 – travel to Koyasan, spend the morning exploring town/hiking, onsen and dinner at shukubo, night tour of Okunoin cemetary, **stay at Shojoshin-in**
* D5 – morning prayer at Shojoshin-in, check out after breakfast, pit stop in Nara on the way to Kyoto, plan to get to Kyoto around dinner time, **stay in Rinn Gion Kenninji in Kyoto (3 nights)**
* *Note: beginning on day 5 I will be meeting up with friends, so the itinerary from here on out is less flexible*
* D6 – full day in Kyoto, **stay in Rinn Gion Kenninji in Kyoto (3 nights)**
* D7 – full day in Kyoto, **stay in Rinn Gion Kenninji in Kyoto (3 nights)**
* D8 – morning train to Tokyo, explore Tokyo, eat a lot of food, **stay in Shinjuku (2 nights)**
* D9 – full day in Tokyo, **stay in Shinjuku (2 nights)**
* D10 – check out of hotel and store luggage at hotel, final visits in Tokyo, depart from Haneda at 6:30pm
* **Pros- (1)** The ryokan I’m looking at has both indoor and outdoor pools onsite, so I’ll have the opportunity to experience onsen in a beautiful, natural setting. I really loved visiting a jjimjilbang in Korea, so I’m confident I would love this **(2)** It’ll also be a bonus if I’m able to peep Fujisan while on the ropeway (though I’m not counting on it)
* **Cons- (1)** I don’t like that on this route I’ll have to spend an extra night in Tokyo, when I’m already planning on spending 2 nights there on the backend. I know that there’s lots to do in Tokyo, but I’d really prefer to have that extra day to visit somewhere else. **(2)** Less than a full day in Osaka / no room to do any day trips from Osaka (such as Himeji, Kobe, etc) **(3)** Lots of travel and unpacking / repacking since I’ll be staying in a new place every night for the first 5 days **(4)** I’ve read that Hakone is pretty touristy and I’m worried that it’ll take away from the experience if it all feels overly commercialized
* Option 2 – Kanazawa
* D1 – land in Tokyo 3:20pm, train to Kanazawa, explore the historical districts and little cafes, **stay in Kanazawa**
* D2- tea at a cozy teahouse, visit Kanazawa gardens, train to Osaka, explore Dotonburi, **stay in Namba (2 nights)**
* D3- day trip to either Himeji, Arima, or Kobe from Osaka, **stay in Namba (2 nights)**
* D4 – travel to Koyasan, spend the morning exploring town/hiking, onsen and dinner at shukubo, night tour of Okunoin cemetary, **stay at Shojoshin-in**
* *Day 5-10 same as Option 1*
* **Pros – (1)** Eliminates the need to stay in Tokyo for an extra night and lets me see another part of Japan (alps region) **(2)** From what I’ve read it sounds like Kanazawa is significantly less touristy which would be a nice change of pace from the rest of my itinerary **(3)** I’m a big tea/coffee enthusiast and I’ve heard that Kanazawa is full of cozy alleys and tea shops to explore **(4)** more time to explore Osaka / surrounding areas **(5)** less travel time
* **Cons – (1)** No full onsen/ryokan experience, unless you count the shukubo I’m doing in Koyasan that has an indoor public bath **(2)** I’m worried that doing Kanazawa before Kyoto will make it hard to enjoy my time in Kyoto, since its similar but with less crowds
* Option 3 – Go straight to Osaka
* D1 – land in Tokyo 3:20pm, train to Osaka, **stay in Namba (3 nights)**
* D2- full day in Osaka, **stay in Namba (3 nights)**
* D3- day trip to either Himeji, Arima, or Kobe from Osaka, **stay in Namba (3 nights)**
* D4 – travel to Koyasan, spend the morning exploring town/hiking, onsen and dinner at shukubo, night tour of Okunoin cemetary, **stay at Shojoshin-in**
* *Day 5-10 same as Option 1*
* **Pros – (1)** the least amount of time spent on trains **(2)** more time to explore Osaka beyond the surface **(3)** staying in Osaka for 3 nights will serve as a home-base for a handful of day trips, including Arima so I’ll still get to have an onsen experience
* **Cons – (1)** limiting myself to one small area of the country for the first half of the trip **(2)** although I’ll be able to do a day trip to Arima Onsen, it doesn’t seem like it will be in the beautiful, natural setting that I’d have in Hakone

If my flight landed a little earlier and I could spend the first night in Hakone and an extra night in Osaka, then I think I’d choose option 1. But since that’s not the case, I’d appreciate any advice from people who have been to these places and can help me decide which is a better way to spend my time. TIA!

3 comments
  1. For option 2, would landing in Tokyo at 3:30pm allow time for train travel to Kanazawa that evening plus time to spare for sight-seeing or exploration? I think it’s about three hours by train, assuming you’re arrive Haneda, and if you’re coming in on an international flight I’d think you might be looking at an hour or so, maybe more, before you’d be catching the train. That puts you into Kanazawa around 7:30pm, best case, which seems a little late to get much sight-seeing in.

  2. I just did Kanazawa > Kyoto and Hakone as two parts of my trip, and I MUCH preferred Kanazawa to Hakone. While Hakone 100% had some cool stuff (lake and mountains were beautiful, Onsen I went to was great, etc) to me the over-touristy-ness of it affected my experience a lot (and the huge hotel resorts also affected the atmosphere in some areas…), and overall I just didn’t enjoy it as much as Kanazawa.
    But, to be fair, I admittedly did also stay in a ryokan close to Kanazawa (Ainokura village, in an amazing ryokan for a great price) so not doing Hakone I would have still had a ryokan stay. You just need to weigh up how much you want a proper ryokan experience (if choosing the Kanazawa option would mean not staying in one).
    And to answer your point about Kyoto being boring after Kanazawa – imo they’re different enough for that not to be an issue.

  3. Better bring a headlamp if you plan on sightseeing in Kanazawa at night! #nightowl

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