**Background**
Couple in 30s, our first time visit to Japan with interest in anime, modern Japan, highlights in Golden route, Ryokan experience. This trip planning took over 6 months prior the trip. We have reservations for restaurant and attractions nearly every day. Our budget is on the high side (we will reveal at the end) but we are still value oriented and selectively spending our money. Focus on this trip is definitely tilted toward cities and less so on countryside.
The trip was very memorable for us as we encountered remarkable experience in Japan whether it is a place or food. We think that especially in Japan, high degree of planning is rewarded as the society leverage significant importance in reservation.
We kept our itinerary simple to really immerse ourselves in each city while avoiding excess travel.
This is part 1 of my trip report just considering the length of the writeup. I will post Kyoto and Osaka in a few days which includes Universal Studio in a few days.
I noted budget for each experience for two people
$ – 2000 yen or less
$$ – 2000-10,000 yen
$$$ – 10,000-20,000 yen
$$$$ – 20,000+
**Packing tips**
*
Pack only essential toiletries and few nights home clothing. Japanese hotel provides amenity kits and lounge wear for every hotel we stayed at.
* You will walk alot so pack well broken inrunning or walking shoes
* You will get blisters guaranteed so pack blister tape for minor blisters and I also bought *Band Aid Hydro Seal.* The latter is excellent to patch up formed blister and really allow you to walk with ease. Highly recommended as it is a life saver
*
Power bank to recharge your phone throughout the day
* Mosquito repellent is handy in countryside.
​
**Transportation tips**
We booked our Shinkansen with SmartEX in advance. The saving is about 4000Y per person per way for green class between Tokyo and Osaka (require 3 day’s advance reservation). It is essentially the same price as ordinary class (not booking in advance). This also saves us the headache of buying ticket on the day. You simply need to scan the QR code at the gate and not deal with ticket machine or counter at all.
Bonus tip: Try to book N700S train variant for a more plush green car ride on the Tokkaido Shinkansen line. This train variant was released in 2021. Schedule on which train [https://global.jr-central.co.jp/en/info/timetable/](https://global.jr-central.co.jp/en/info/timetable/)
We continue to see long lines at the JR rail counter for seat reservation / pass assistance at major stations. If you plan to use counter, try to use it the day before or leave ample time.
**Managing summer weather/rain:**
\- Summer in Japan is very hot where temperatures reach 34c above. Our experience in Tokyo is much better with indoor air conditioning and vast indoor pedestrian network. Our experience with more outdoor such as in Arashiyama and Nara was different.
\- Take advantage of transit as much as possible. We save our energy for select walks like enjoying the bamboo forest, and a stroll in philosophers path. The rest, we spend the 200Y and take the bus.
\- Try to get a head start early in the morning for sights that require a lot of walking. 7AM heat is much better than 12PM.
\- Uncommon in western countires, but Japanesse people use non transparent umbrella (parasol) to block heat. We think this is very helpful esp when waiting in line or during extended walk
\- Portable electric fan / neck fan can make a meaningful difference
\- Japanese convenience store sells “ice cold” wipes which is essentially mint wipes. They also sell ice spray which is actually ice blast in a can. The ice blast is quite nice!
\- Hotels do provide small face cloth that you can bring to wipe off sweats
\- When it rains in Japan, it can be torrential. Your shoes will get soaked. Bringing in a breathable/ mesh shoes that can be dried off quickly with a hair dryer was essential. We brought two pair of shoes, but you can definitely get by with just one pair.
**Other**
\- Masking is approximately 50/50 in transit, therefore the decision to wear one is entirely up to you
Trash can is very rare in Japan. We usually found them near vending machine or at convenience store. – Bring a small plastic bag to carry your trash with you.
\- Cash is needed to load your suica or to ride taxi. 95% restaurants accept major credit cards except smaller street food joint (in rare exceptions). Temple admission is also cash only. We typically withdraw 50000Y at a time and just use until it’s exhausted. We were able to get by with 100,000Y for two weeks in cash.
\- Laundry machine in hotel can be a competition (as there are only a few). Make sure you allow time to do it at night or early morning. Dont do it last minute so you have time to do it next day if you could not secure machine on your day 1. It takes at leat 90 minutes for a 4kg load. If you have more load, plan accordingly. Japanese washing machine is small. Detergent is not required as it is automatically dispensed or they provide you with one
\- Using luggage forwarding service is a must if you have large luggage. Navigating transit during rush hour with luggage is simply not feasible. Shipping is very affordable at $20 a piece from Tokyo to Osaka
\- Dress code: especially in a somewhat nice restaurant, shorts and sandals are not recommended. Prepare to bring or buy pants if you are going to nice restaurants.
**Note About Finding Restaurants and Reservations**
We use Tabelog extensively to vet restaurant review (instead of Google maps review). Tabelog is used by Japanese locals as their yelp. There are over 800,000 restaurants in Tabelog. We conclusively can vouch that anything over 3.5 is good, 3.7 rating is very good/excellent, anything closer or above 4 is life changing meal.
Reservations for restaurants can be made through Tabelog Japanesse (yes, the English version does not allow you to), or [Omakase.in](https://Omakase.in) or TableCheck. Each restaurants vary. We only need one reservation that require assistance with booking through our hotel
#
ITINERARY
**Day 1 – TOKYO**
Hotel: Gracery Asakusa ($100/night for twin superior room). The hotel is clean, located steps from subway in a quiet neighborhood. Staff is helpful, room in great condition.
Arrived in Narita 3PM and with Japan web QR in hand, we are out of immigration and got our luggage within 1 hour of landing. We bought Welcome Suica card and took Keisei Sky Access to Asakusa (direct connection). This day is fairly light – we just went to Skytree to have the famous sushi train experience from Hokkaido, **Toriton**. We explored the **Skytree mall** which has some interesting stores: *Pokemon Centre, Sanrio, Studio Ghibli, One Piece Store*.
**Day 2 – TOKYO**
Morning: **Toyosu Fish Auction** (Reservation required) (FREE)
Took advantage of our jet lag, We went to see fish auction in Toyosu Market which was previously held at Tsukiji. To be able to observe at the lower observation deck, you must enter into a lottery a month before visit (https://toyosu.jcdlotterysite.jp/?lng=2). The experience was free and is definitely unique. You get to see the fish auction in such close distance and feel the energy. Note that there is also observation deck that does not require reservations, but the experience is fairly limited. The experience starts at 530AM and since no train arrived this early,
Breakfast: **Shou** at Toyosu Market (No reservations) (Tabelog 3.46) ($$$)
Instead of lining up at Sushi Dai which is approximately 4-5 hour wait when we were there at 6AM, we went to Sushi Shou which is located right beside it. The 5000Y omakase set is good with fresh uni, toro, eel served.
Morning Activity 2: **TeamLabs Planet Tokyo – First in line!** at 9AM (Requires Reservation) ($$)
We were the first people entering the TeamLabs Planet Tokyo. The experience was surreal with nobody else in the room. We blasted through all the rooms and took photos in 30 minutes (so that we are ahead of the pack), and then re enter to really immerse ourselves. The experience in the morning with no crowd is absolutely a bliss. It is completely different just 30 minutes later.
Morning Activity 3: **Tokyo Station**
We took the time to explore Tokyo station primarily for the **character street**. The station the most important train hub in all of Japan with 4000 trains departing daily. The brick facade is original from 1914. Character street here has tons of anime related goods: P*okemon, Kirby Petit Cafe, Pericure girl store, Ultraman. It has cool food offerings too like Tokyo Okashi Land with Grand Calbee Cafe.* The Calbee Cafe is particularly interesting – it is from the famed chips company, except they fry the chips right in front of you!
Lunch: **Pokemon Cafe** (Reservations required) $$$
We bought into all the hype and made the effort for Pokemon cafe reservation. The experience was very cute, food presented well. Pikachu made an appearance midway during our meal which was the highlight.
Afternoon Activity: **Ginza exploration**
We made a specific walking map for Ginza to hit *Uniqlo flagship store, Muji flagship, Itoya stationary store*, as well as checking out **Seiko Museum** (free). Unexpectedly, the seiko museum is very cool to see the history of their time piece and some of their one of a kind watch. We were going to see **Ginza Art Aquarium** but decided to pass on it as we already did alot of stuffs today.
Bonus stop: checking out **Christian Dior cafe** collaboration with Laduree but did not get anything from there as we have dinner plans.
Dinner: **Kirby Cafe** (Reservations required) ($$$)
We hit our second themed cafe for the day. The food presentation and taste is actually superior than Pokemon cafe in everyway. There is also a photo opportunity as you enter the cafe with props. We love this cafe more than Pokemon
**Day 3 – TOKYO**
Breakfast: **Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo** ($$$)
We started the day by going to worlds largest Starbucks Reserve Roastery (there are only five in the world). The store is not busy at opening and probably the perfect time to go. We got flight of starbucks reserve coffee, some elaborate pastries and dessert. The interior of the store is just wow, top notch. The store has several levels: coffee, tea, alcohol coffee and lounge. This reason alone makes it worthwhile to check out this one of a kind starbucks. They roast their own coffee in the store and you can see it directly after 1030AM.
Morning Activity:
**Hie Shrine – Torii Gates** \- Mini version of Fushini Inari in Tokyo
Very nice little climb in Tokyo. During daytime, we did not see any tourist.
Then, we hop on metro to see **National Art Centre** \- primarily to see the cafe which is in Your name anime. The exterior is all glass and the interior is fairly interesting.
Lunch: **Teppanyaki experience at ANA InterContinental Hotel** (**Teppanyaki Asakasa**). A high end Teppanyaki restaurant offering dramatic view of Tokyo Tower and also trying out A5 Wagyu. At lunch, the price is very reasonable ranging from 8000Y 9000Y with drinks included. This can easily be a romantic lunch at relatively affordable.
Afternoon activity: **Harajuku / TeamLabs Galaxy**
Walked along Omotesando street to admire high end store exterior. We entered Galaxy store in Harajuku and did the TeamLabs activity there for free. This is a free interactive immersive attraction that I have covered in other post
Afternoon activity 2: **Shibuya Sky with Sofa Reservation (Reservation required)** ($$)
We booked a sofa in Shibuya to enjoy uninterrupted view of Tokyo skyline exactly 1 month before. The experience lasted 50 minutes on the sofa. This is money so well spent. We spent 5000Y per person instead of regular rate 2300Y I believe. But it comes with 2 drinks and 2 snacks per person! They have artisan beer and soda that you can try
There are so many people in Shibuya sky that I could not imagine not having the sofa. There is only 10 sofas so getting the reservation early is key. The view is stunning and ambiance is unmatched.
Following the Shibuya Sky, we just did our usual Shibuya exploration: Shibuya crossings, to **Shibuya Parco** (Nintendo, Pokemon, other anime stores), Mega Don Quijonte. After, we ventured to the newly constructed **Miyashita Park**. This rooftop park is so alive at night with skateboard parks, young people hanging out. Underneath there is **Shibuya Yokocho** which seems to be very lively and atmospheric as well.
**Day 4: TOKYO + YOKOHAMA**
Morning Activity: **Shinjuku Goen** ($)
A very nice urban garden in Tokyo that features traditional Japanese garden, formal English garden, Green house. The Japanese garden is quite good although when compared to garden in Kyoto for instance, is probably just average. The backdrop between greenery and skyscrapers is nice
Lunch: **Tonkatsu experience at Tonkatsu Narikura** ($$$)
We were able to score reservation at Tonkatsu Njarikura (Tabelog top Tonkatsu restaurant, Michelin bib gourmand). This is easily top 3 meals during our trip. The Tokyo X cut was so thick and perfectly cooked. The coating was so delicate. We never knew tonkatsu can be so delicious and fulfilling
Afternoon Activity: **Yokohama**
We came to Yokohama primarily to visit Tokyo Gendai (contemporary art exhibit similar to Art Basel) and Gundam Yokohama (ending early 2024). However, we also came across other sights that surprise us: **Nissan Global HQ** \- basically a large showroom of Nissan cars, **Shisheido Global Innovation Centre**\* – This is a Japanese skincare company really nice area where they have health cafe, large projection screen and exhibit about their products, etc. Finally **LG’s Yumesaki Gallery**. The gallery exhibit is alot of fun with futuristic vibe complete with short immersive exhibit about the climate and designing your own postcard. Yokohama is a very modern walkable city that we can easily spend a full day exploring. The vibe is so different from Tokyo – less chaos and lot more modern.
Dinner: **Sushi Rizaki Aoyama, Tokyo ($$$$) – Tabelog 3.75/5**
We wanted to try Omakase restaurant without breaking the bank so we found this high rating Tabelog Omakase restaurant at 15,000Y per person that seems to be a hit with local. The meal experience was excellent with some highlight pieces like abalone, uni, toro, eel. We were the only tourist there and the restaurant was full with young Japanese locals. The downside is that none of the staff speaks English and the location is well hidden and located on a quiet street fronting cemetery. This is as off beaten path in Tokyo to enjoy fine sushi
**Day 5: TOKYO**
Morning Activity: **Ghibli Museum** (Reservation required)($)
We were able to book the experience through Lawson Japanese site, and subsequently picking our tickets at a Loopi machine at a Lawson. The museum is very nice and worth the 1000Y even if you are not a Ghibli fan. The interior of the museum is very intricate with details throughout from the animation. We lined up at the Straw Hat cafe for breakfast immediately at opening to avoid line. Overall, it was a satisfying experience.
Lunch: **Ramen Tatsunoya, Shinjuku (Tabelog 3.55)** ($)
We decided to line up for a well known Tsukemen in Shinjuku. We lined up for an hour. To be honest, we don’t think this particular Tsukemen is worth lining up for. The broth is very good but the noodle or the meat really did not stand out for us.
Afternoon Activity: **Shinjuku exploration**
We went to see the brand new T**okyo Kabukicho tower**. The food hall is just straight out of cyberpunk movie. The energy and ambiance is totally surreal. Upstairs they have Namco arcade with crane games, etc. Following that, we went to see Kabukicho and Godzilla head. Notable store here is **Disney Tokyo flagship store.**
A planned bonus stop is a raised platform by entrance to Shinjuku station here, adjacent to Takashiyama department store. The platform provides sprawling view of Shinjuku rail below and skyscrapers around it.
Dinner: **Yakitori Omino (Tabelog 4.04/5)** (Reservation required) ($$$$)
Tabelog bronze and Michelin bib gourmand Yakitori restaurant. The chef here previously worked at Torishikin. Probably the best meal experience in Japan during our 17 days. Who knows there are so many parts of chicken one grill. Each yakitori is simply seasoned and cooked to perfection. We had over 20 pieces each person, and spent over 15,000Y per person. This is a life changing meal.
**Day 6: TOKYO**
Breakfast: Traditional breakfast experience at **Tsumugi** (Reservation optional) ($$)
We are curious about traditional Japanese breakfast versus just getting convenience stroe food, so we got reservation at Tsumugi. An 18 course traditional Japanese breakfast served with porridge at a cafe. Each dish was labeled and presented so nicely. Highly recommended for the experience
Morning activity: **Ghibli exhibition (Friday Roadshow)** (Reservation required ($$) https://jw-webmagazine.com/friday-road-show-and-ghibli-exhibition/
A very cool Ghibli exhibit with lots of photo opportunities (unlike the museum which prohibits photo). The flagship exhibit is from their series Nautica which transforms an entire hall into some kind of alien world.
Lunch: **Final Fantasy Eorzea Cafe (Reservation required)** ($$$)
A small themed Final Fantasy cafe in Akihabara. Compared to Pokemon or Kirby, we thought this one is OK unless you are a die hard fan of the Final Fantasy XIV. They have a lottery at the end of each session where you can win a Final Fantasy special toast, so make sure to be there on time
Bonus Activity: We took **Suijo (Tokyo Cruise) Water Bus** ($$) from Asakusa to Odaiba in their futuristic boat. The ride along the Tokyo Bay is absolutely stunning. We must have crossed 15 bridges along the way, and at the final leg when it actually cross the bay, we went under the Rainbow Bridge. The view is just stunning. A recommended mode of transport
Afternoon activity: **Odaiba: Joypolis and Sunshine City**
Indoor themed park with roller coasters and haunted houses! We did the sadako indoor attraction and it was a thrilling short experience. We also checked out the gundam statue and the store there which was comprehensive.
Dinner: **Yakiniku Jambo Hanare** (Reservation Required) ($$$$)
A Tabelog Silver restaurant, this is definitely also in the top 3 dining experience in Japan for us. The A5 meat cut was so perfectly juicy and fatty, and easily the best Yakiniku I ever had when compared to my home city (Toronto). We also ordered rice bowl cooked in wagyu fat and meat which requires advance order on TableCheck. This meal along with the Tonaktsu and Yakitori, is also life changing
**Day 7-9 (morning): Kinosaki Onsen**
We took 9AM Nozomi to Shin-Osaka and transfer to Kinoutouri train to Kinosaki Onsen. We arrived at **Nishimuraya Honkan Ryokan** for our splurge stay. Nishimuraya is a member of renowned hotel association, Relais and Chateaux and is named by lonely planet as the best ryokan in Japan. The room we got (Hatsune) with private onsen, Chef Kaiseki meal cost approximately 110,000Y a night, so for two nights it’s about 220,000Y for two people with breakfast and dinner.
The ryokan only has 30 something rooms and feels very intimate. It has immaculate Japanese garden with koi pond in the middle (probably the best garden we seen during our trip) and It is preserved well from historical point of view as the inn started 160 years ago. The service we received was spectacular, the Kaiseki meal in our room and breakfast can be described as grand, elaborate and embodiment of Washoku (Japanese cooking). To give an idea, our dinner has no less than 15 individual course and took 2 hours to complete in our room. We would start dinner at 6PM and finish past 8PM! There is something about eating fine food in your own room!
The onsen town itself is very cute and picturesque. We went around wearing your Yukatas and feels the vibe of town. The town has 7 onsens that we can use freely with the pass they provide at hotel. Each onsen has a unique feature and feels like a quintessential Japanese bath house.
One night stay would have been sufficient here if you plan to arrive at Kinosaki early and leave late on the second day, however we opted for two nights for a more relaxing break between Tokyo and Kyoto.
**TO BE CONTINUED IN PART 2**
6 comments
Great details! Thanks!
Sounds like a lovely trip, looking forward to part 2!
How did you get a reservation for Kirby Cafe? When I tried it looked like you needed a Japanese phone number
Thank you for the detail read! Looks it was a great trip! Kudos on the planning and execution!
For the kinosaki onsen. Are they tattoo friendly? I imagine not?
How do you reserve a sofa at Shibuya sky? Is there a way to do this in advance?