This is a Part 2 out of 4 series in my report to Japan. First part which contains some useful trips and tips along with my trip to Tokyo and Kinosaki Onsen can be viewed here: [https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/15c4gf1/trip\_report\_6\_days\_in\_tokyo\_kinosaki\_onsen/](https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/15c4gf1/trip_report_6_days_in_tokyo_kinosaki_onsen/)
In this Kyoto leg, we took our time (4 nights/5 days) to really immerse in Kyoto and felt that we were rewarded by the experience versus just taking a day trip here.
In this Kyoto leg, we unlock several food experience for us: Sukiyaki/Shabu Shabu, Omurice Rice, Kaiseki meal and Tempura!
**DAY 9 (Afternoon) – KYOTO**
**Hotel Abest Kyoto** (Google map showing as ホテルアベストグランデ京都清水) – less than $100/night twin room. Affordable hotel located walking distance to Kiyomizu Dera. The hotel is brand new and located next to Double Tree which charges double or triple depending on the date). Room is pretty good and good sized. Located next to a Keihan line station (making going to Nara, Fushini Inari, Osaka – a breeze)
Afternoon:
Arrived at the Kyoto main station. Before we do anything, we decided to check out the famous matcha cafe originating from Uji – **Nakamura Tokichi** (Tabelog 3.64) where they serve various Matcha parfait and motchi dessert. After, we made our way to our hotel. After checking in, we went to see **Kinkakuji** just before they close. The crowd really thins out just before their closing time at 5PM. We took photos at our own pace and doesn’t feel rushed.
Dinner: **Kura Sushi Kinkakuji** ($)
We finally tried the chain sushi train restaurant conveniently located near Kinkakuji. The sushi price is extremely cheap – with most costing less than a dollar. The quality is good (you get what you pay for), but certainly superior than the typical sushi takeout in North America. After 5 plates, you can play minigame where you can win little prizes. It is a fun family restaurant.
Night: **Kyoto Night Walk**
We walked along **Pontocho Alley** at night to see the glimmering lanterns, signs and shops along a narrow alley pathway. We even saw couple of Geishas walking this street. We caught a glimpse of **Minazima Theatre** which is impressively lit at night (Kabuki Theatre). We made our way down to **Yasaka Shrine** which is also beautifully lit at night. Inside, they have myriad of more lanterns with Japanesse character.
**DAY 10 – KYOTO**
Morning Activity:
We had an early start – about 6AM to be at the famous photo spot in Kyoto (Google **Yasaka Pagoda Photo Spot**) located in **Nineizaka and Sanenzaka**. This photo appears in all guide books and posters in Kyoto and really captures the essence of the city. By 6AM, there were already 20 tourists – but it is not to bad to take turns and ask them to take your photo. There are many beautiful photo spots as well in this area to take. Again, the key is to be here in the morning before the hordes of tourist appear
We then reached **Kiyomizu Dera** around 7AM and went through the temple. The temple is probably the most impressive in Kyoto and is definitely unmissable. The entire temple was supported by wood beams that has not one single nail.
Breakfast: **Starbucks** \- **Nineizaka**
Following that we went to traditional **Starbucks** \- **Nineizaka** this is the famous Starbucks that has tatami floor mat. At 8AM, this Starbucks is already very packed. We could not find tatami floor seating in the upper floor, but plenty of seats downstairs. To be honest, we are not as impressed with this Starbucks. You can find so many other cafes with tatami floor setting in a less crowded environment elsewhere.
Morning Activity 2:
Following that, we went to see **Kodaiji temple.** Now, this is probably Kyoto’s *best kept secret*. There is a bamboo grove inside Kodaiji temple which we found there is no one. This bamboo grove is 100x easier to take photo than the ultra busy Arashiyama bamboo grove which we are also covering letter. Aside from beautiful temple grounds, this bamboo grove alone makes it worthwhile to visit this temple
Then we are off to **Kennin-Ji** temple. The temple has a beautiful rock garden and inner gardens. It also has a dragon hall. Definitely one of the best temple you can visit in Kyoto.
Lunch: **Kokadara Grill (Omurice experience, westernized Japan cuisine)**
We were somewhat disappointed we could not secure a reservation at the social media famous Kichi Kichi Omurice. They told us that we can line up from 3PM for a number, but we just can’t afford to lose prime afternoon time to line up. We instead visited, **Grill Kodakara** (Tabelog 3.56) – this restaurant is particularly unique because it is a take of Western cuisine in Japan!
We ordered Hamburg Steak and of course, the Omurice. Both were deliciously prepared and rather interesting. It is definitely a cuisine you never tasted in North American / other Western countries. This restaurant is a hit with locals so there is a little bit of line – maybe 20-30 minutes
Afternoon Activity: **Philosopher’s Path**
First, we check out **Heian Shrine** as it is very close to the restaurant. This sprawling shrine looks very grand because it is a replica of **Heian Palace** (1195). The detail of architecture is quite good and it is free to enter. We then stroll along the Philosopher Path to get to **Ginkakuji** (Silver Temple). The garden of the temple is nice – but we are a bit underwhelmed to be honest because you cannot seem to enter the temple.
Afternoon Activity 2: **Kamigamo Shrine (NAKED Garden Illumination Event)**
This is part of series illumination event in Kyoto by NAKED Garden. The highlight was everyone was to get a colorful lantern and explore the various parts of the illuminated temple. To be honest with you, this experience was underwhelming compared to the photo. During our 17 day trip, we did not have a single bad experience – but this one was it.
Dinner: **FIRE RAMEN Menbaka** (Tabelog 3.28)
This is a viral social media ramen where the chef doused *blazing flame* on your ramen prior serving. The experience was fun and memorable. They will place your phone positioned when the chef does it. The ramen to be honest was nothing to write home about, however it is made up by the nice chef and experience during the meal
**DAY 11: KYOTO**
Morning Activity: **Fushini Inari (Thousand Gates)**
We started our day somewhat late today and only arrived there around 830AM. The place is already somewhat busy. We went further up for another 20-30 minutes hike and took photos where the crowd started to die down. We then make our way down again (did not get to the top)
Since Fushini Inari, didn’t take too long – we went to **Byodo-In** (Japan’s designated national treasure) Temple in Uji which is just 30 minutes away from Fushini Inari along the same line. The temple in the middle of the water is very impressive. The Phoenix hall even more so with giant Amitabha statue. The carving along the ceiling and wall are so immacutely preserved. The site museum also contain Japan’s national treasure piece such as the Phoenix from the Phoenix Hall.
Lunch: **KIYAMA (Tabelog Silver, Michelin 1\*) (RESERVATION REQUIRED) ($$$$$)**
We managed to secure a reservation for Kiyama. Being a Tabelog silver, this is then automatically part of *Top 100 restaurants in Japan*, also a Michelin 1\* restaurant. The chef appears on several documentaries / short film piece (featured in CNA luxury)
The restaurant uses the same water as the Kyoto Imperial Palace (dubbed as the softest water in Japan) to make its dashi. Dashi is arguably ingredient #1 in all of Japanese cooking. The Kaiseki lunch meal was top notch with focus on dashi and the broth. There were no pictures allowed inside the restaurant but the 2.5 hour meal was very memorable. Each meal was delicately presented and cooked.
If you want to try Kaiseki meal in Kyoto, Kiyama should be near the top of your list.
Afternoon Activity: **Shopping – Teramachi Kyoto Network**
This is an absolutely sprawling shopping street (outdoor but covered). Here we were able to check out several key Anime stores such as Lashinbang, Animate Kyoto, myriad of crane game stores. Across the street, we also found Pokemon Kyoto. The shopping in Kyoto is very comprehensive and you can spend all day here.
Dinner: Shabu shabu and Sukiyaki experience at **MORITAYA KIYAMACHI (Reservation required) ($$$$) – Tabelog 3.7, Japan’s Top 5000 restaurants**
Having tried Yakiniku, we’re curious about Shabu Shabu and Sukiyaki experience. This particular restaurant is highly rated and actually started in 1869!!! We were whisked promptly to a private room (All of the dining there is in private room). We picked 8,000Y and 11,000Y menu (to be honest, the difference is so minor that 8,000Y is perfectly adequate). We picked both Shabu Shabu and Sukiyaki set course.
The A5 meat was cooked to perfection. The Shabu Shabu flavor is subtlet and perfectly accompanied by dipping sauce. The Yakiniku flavor is bolder and does not require additional sauce. Both sets were perfect and we definitely will come back next time we are in Kyoto
**DAY 12: KYOTO**
Morning Activity: **Tenryu-Ji Temple**
The temple is rather grand and has a beautifully landscaped Japanese Garden with a mini hill. It is unfortunate that you have to pay twice (to go inside the hall and for the garden itself). We just paid for the garden which also offer a view to the interior. As mentioned, there is a mini hill here that allow you birdseye view of the temple.
Upon exiting Tenryu-Ji, we enter **Arashiyama Bamboo Grove**
By the time we enter around 9AM, this bamboo grove is littered with people and tourists. The mega bus tourist arrived too. We were so underwhelmed because how touristy this spot is compared to the Bamboo grove at Kodaiji temple. To be honest, if you just want to go out of your way to visit the bamboo grove, it is probably not worth it
Morning Activity 2: **Saihoji Kokedera Moss Temple (RESERVATION REQUIRED) ($$)**
We were recommended this moss temple by Lonely Planet Guide Book. Reserving the temple is a bit tricky – you can either do it via mail (right?!) or online through their Japanese language website (not available in English page). Entering cost 4000Y which is rather steep for a temple!
In exchange for the high price and arduous reservation is to keep tourist to a minimum which I gladly take in Kyoto. Upon entering, you a provided with a pen and instruction to copy the sutra in the main hall. The experience for copying sutra in a temple can be described as *zen like.* It is very peaceful and allow you to take in the temple vibe in totality. It takes about 20 minutes to copy the sutra, after which you can sit there or explore the main attraction, moss garden.
The famous moss garden is designated as Special Place of Scenic Beautyand a Historic Site in Japan. The layout and the moss garden is unrivaled for any garden we went to in Japan. It is just absolutely stunning to be able to see moss so well kept and in perfect harmony with the landscape. It is a huge bonus too that the tourist here is relatively sparse.
Lunch: **Rilakkuma Cafe – Dine In Experience (Reservation NOT required) ($$$)**
We went back to Arashiyama Area to go dine-in at Rilakumma Cafe. Upon entering the cafe, head to 2nd storey to get your number. Surprisingly, the wait is bearable at just 1 hour. I think not many people recognize that you can dine in here and just go grab take out on first floor, and the fact that you need to go to 2nd floor to get your number
I have to say that although the theming is just okay in this cafe, the food presentation cuteness is out of this world…. you get Rilakkuma bear swimming in your rice. The presentation for various dishes and drinks are so perfectly executed. Just look up some photos online and you’ll be blown away by the presentation.
Afternoon Activity: **Katsura Imperial Villa (Reservation Required) ($$)**
This is one of two imperial property in Kyoto that requires advance reservation. Katsura Imperial Villa is an imperial residence and the garden grounds regarded as notable example of Japanese gardening and tea ceremony. The garden here is definitely coming in at close second after the Moss Garden we visited earlier. You can relive the experience of visiting this garden as a noble person coming to visit the imperial family. Each foot steps (from entrance) to the villas where people would have their tea is carefully curated. Each step reveal a different aspect of the garden and there are many visual tricks in the villa.
Dinner: **Tempura experience at Tempura Kawatatsu (Tabelog 3.75/ Top 5000 restaurants) ($$$$)**
We always wanted to try tempura restaurant and found this perfect restaurant not too far Katsura Imperial Villa. The restaurant has a long history here. Again, we were the only non-tourist there and were seated infront of the chef. The course meal was about 11,000Y and we were served about 15 courses over 2 hours. We thoroughly
Each tempura dish was perfectly fried and has a light and delicate batter. This experience really opens up a brand new perspective on how tempura should taste like. Typically in our home country, tempura is a heavy battered dish. Not so here with such timing on cooking and just enough batter. We thoroughly enjoyed this meal at Tempura Kawatatsu.
Night Activity: **Inspecting float for Gion Matsuri Festival (Japan’s most famous festival)**
We went around downtown to inspect the various floats prior the parade (if you come here around mid-July, this would be perfect time to see it). The crowd level is unreal but it is definitely nice to be able to see the float all nicely lit up at night. You can go in the float, but I recall it does cost $.
**DAY 13: KYOTO (MORNING)**
Before checking out from Kyoto, of course we actually went to the **Gion Matsuri Festival.** By the time we arrived 930AM, the crowd again is just unbelievable. We went to the intersection near Kyoto-Kawaramachi station that the float is suppose to make a turn direction (which is probably the most interesting process involving 20-30 people). If you are going to Kyoto around July, make sure it coincides with this festival so you can see a bit of the parade.
After this festival, we checked out from Kyoto hotel and took a **Keihan Premium Car to Osaka.** The surcharge to take this unbelievably luxurious train ride is a whopping $5 (on top of a $5 basic train fare). We would gladly take this Keihan Premium Car again anytime. It was so nice and blissful versus riding to Osaka in commuter train car.
**TO BE CONTINUED IN PART 3 (OSAKA 5 DAYS WITH NARA AND USJ), PART 4 (TOKYO – EXTENDED LEG)**
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4 comments
Surprised you didn’t book a seat for the Gion Festival considering you booked almost everything else. Find it amusing you visited Starbucks again in Kyoto after having done so in Tokyo. The most white thing from the west in one of the most Japanese place.
I just want to comment so I can be a part of the annals of the greatest Japan visit ever.
Wow wtf how much money do u have
Thanks