Solo week in Japan for a poor student: too much??

Hi all! Would be really grateful for some thoughts on my 1ish week itinerary in Japan next month (June).

Some background: I’m travelling to attend a conference in Tokyo, and I booked my return flight for a week later to have a (self-funded) holiday. I wasn’t sure if I would get my visa approved because of the tourism rules, but luckily I collected it this week! So I’m super excited, but have also left planning things a bit late as a consequence. However, I’m hoping a lack of (non-domestic) tourists due to covid will help me out when it comes to making last minute bookings…

I’m mid 20s, female, travelling alone, know no Japanese but am adventurous and happy to muddle through with strangers. I’m also a PhD student from the UK, so on a very very small budget!

**Here is my plan so far:**

* Day 1, Fri:
Arrive in Tokyo (morning), check-in, orientation (explore immediate neighbourhood, Shinbashi)
* Day 2, Sat:
Shopping and sightseeing in Toyko (e.g. Borderless Art, sky tree or similar, Meji Jingu garden, Shibuya crossing …)
* Day 3 Sun:
Day-trip, hiking {EITHER Hakone or Mt Fuji area, e.g. 5 lakes}
* Day 4 Mon:
Shopping and sightseeing in Tokyo (e.g. Shinjuku Gyoen national garden), streetfood, otherwised missed things
* Day 5 – 9:
Conference in Tokyo
* Day 10 Sun:
Morning: Early check out, train to Kyoto, check in. Afternoon: orientation, explore Kyoto (details pending)
* Day 11 Mon:
Full day in Kyoto. Sightseeing (shrines and temples), suggestions welcome! E.g. I’m thinking Nishiki market, manga museum, art museum, Arashiyama bamboo grove, Fushimi Inari-Taisha, eat lots of food)
* Day 12 Tues:
Check-out, train to Nara. Day exploring Nara (will take this easy). Eat Kuzumochi at Nakatanidou! Train to Osaka in late afternoon, check in, Explore Osaka night life in evening. \[\[ALTERNATIVELY, rearrange and be in Osaka for Otaue Rice Planting Festival, if it’s happing.\]\]
* Day 13 Wed:
Full day in Osaka. Shinsaibashi-sui aracde, Dōtombori, maybe Osaka-jō
* Day 14 Thur:
Train back towards Tokyo. If possible to {EITHER Hakone or Mt Fuji area, e.g. 5 lakes}, whichever not done previously. Evening: train from Tokyo to somewhere north. This is where I’m not yet decided. Somewhere nature-y with good hiking and maybe Onsen options. Maybe Hachinohe/Towada or Nikko National park. Kamikochi, Toyama, Takayama also in the running.
* Day 15 Fri:
Full day in mystery location. Hiking and hopefully onsen.
* Day 16 Sat:
Either stay in location for further sightseeing and train back to Tokyo in the evening, or train earlier in the day and finish up missed things in Tokyo. Spend night in Tokyo.
* Day 17 Sun:
Train to Henada for midday flight.

As you can see, I’m struggling a bit to wade through all the endless information on Japan travel destinations and tips. Adding the extra destination is probably overly ambitious, but this sort of travel opportunity is so rare and precious to me! I’m desperate to make the most, and I’d really like some time in nature, not just cities. Any suggestions are welcome, though of course not asking for a travel agent. I think I’m missing more activities / experiences e.g. festivals, music/theatre or a cooking class.

More specific questions:

1. Has much changed due to Covid that wouldn’t come up in travel guides? E.g more widespread use of cards for payment, businesses closed etc.
2. How much trouble will I have storing luggage? E.g. for Nara, and on day 14, my current plan involves spending a day somewhere in between accommodation, hopefully leaving my luggage at a station or similar? or should I rethink and, for example, go to Osaka, check in, then travel back out to Nara?

Many thanks in advance!

28 comments
  1. Shinjuku gyoen is close on monday.

    You can put your luggage in a coin locker. But you can easily do both Nara and Osaka as day trips from Kyoto.

  2. I think maybe you should cut out a few places from your Kyoto plans, it seems a bit hectic for one day’s worth of activities, and as far as I know, Arashiyama and Fushimi-Inari are on opposite ends of Kyoto, so you’d be spending a lot of time moving around.

  3. Honestly I would cut out going West all together and just stay in the Tokyo area the entire time. You’re only spending 3.5 days in Kansai which will cost you a couple hundred dollars in Shinkansen fare. You’re better off taking the money and doing more stuff in Tokyo. Kamakura which is an easy day trip from Tokyo has similar Nara vibes.

  4. Pack ultra light. Try to fit your life into 1 carry on sized bag (better yet something like the Osprey Fairview 40 https://www.osprey.com/us/en/product/fairview-travel-pack-carry-on-40-FAIRVEW40.html). My wife managed this for 18 days (we did laundry mid trip).

    Huge quality of life benefit. Will make negotiating trains and such much easier. As you can just pop your stuff in a mid size locker at a train station if you are just visiting to see a local attraction.

    Lots of places in japan are not made for rolling suitcases and you will be miserable if you spend your trip wrestling luggage. Especially if you want to see lots of attractions on the run.

    Strongly recommend the romantic/scenic railway at Arashiyama. Also make sure to visit Todaji in Nara. A half to 3/4 Day(depending on your speed) in Nara is well spent walking from the station to Todaji and back.

    Kyoto, Nara and Osaka are all about 1hr away from each other in a triangle. Also nothing really opens before 10am. Last time I visited I stayed in Osaka (near Ueno station) the whole time and just took a train to Kyoto/Nara to see attractions. Osaka has better nightlife and food in my opinion. An 8am start could put you just about anywhere in the Kansai region by 10am.

    For me I would consider dropping some of the hikes as you wont be short of long scenic walking in Japan and there is just so much to see and do. Add a day for Kyoto, Fushimi Inari(you could count this as a short hike if you go all the way to the top), Kiyomizu-dera and the Nishiki market are all doable in a day. Arashiyama is a half day on its own as its on the other side of the city.

  5. It’s awesome Japan is opening up and you are able to visit. I like reading these posts and vicariously having the experience of fresh travelers. For Kyoto, you have a lot packed in. I suggest looking at a map of the area and also, importantly, transportation options. Prioritize based on location. As one poster mentioned, Arashiyama and Fushimi Inari are at complete opposite ends of the city and you will waste valuable time if you don’t plan your itinerary to factor in transportation. In general be flexible and willing to adjust based on crowds (not so bad yet but will get worse), weather and other factors. Have an awesome time.

  6. I can recommend the Gojo Guesthouse Annex in Kyoto. I’ve stayed twice. They also have the main guesthouse (I’ve never stayed there). Rates for a single person start at about £12 up to about £30. It is clean and staff are friendly. Located fairly close to some of the main sightseeing locations, and not far from the a metro stop, I find it ideal for a cheap night in Kyoto. From memory they might even include a glass of juice and a slice of toast for breakfast within the price.

    In Tokyo I’ve stayed at the Andon Ryokan a ‘modern ryokan’ – it’s location may not be ideal for you, but I found it clean, affordable and with friendly and helpful staff. Average rate is £46 per night for your own private room, but note shared bathroom facilities.

    I would suggest both are safe for a woman traveling solo, and represent some of the best value for money in each of those cities (so long as you don’t mind sleeping on futon and tatami mats).

    Best of luck with your presentation and your trip!

  7. If you’re on a budget you need to really look at train fares in advance, the Shinkansen is not cheap and you’re planning on moving around a lot.
    There is a ton to do in Tokyo and the surrounding area. Mt Takao isn’t far and is a lovely hike.

    Could you switch your flight to go home from Osaka, so you could at least make your way there and see the sights on the way? You could then stay near Hakone for a night or two for walks and onsen if that’s important to you, as Fuji is still pretty far for a day trip.

  8. Japan is relatively inexpensive for food and drink so don’t worry about that. But what is expensive are trains to Kyoto, so maybe re think that if your on a budget. Tokyo is literally one of the coolest cities in the world. You’ll be able to do something cool and new everyday.

  9. For your Kansai section, I would consider using Osaka as a base, as Kyoto and Nara are only 1 hr train rides away, and it would solve your luggage issue at least for those days. Or Kyoto as a base, which would be slightly more inconvenient for Nara, but I do love Kyoto.

    I think your day 14-16 extra location is pretty ambitious. I’ve been to Kamikochi and had some amazing hikes but god damn is it difficult to get to. I’ll always recommend the area, but traveling from Kansai to Kamikochi takes the entire day. I don’t know as much about the other areas.

    One possible suggestion is switching out your day 3 hike and staying in Tokyo instead, and then make days 14-16 hiking days in the Fuji area, Hakone or 5 lakes. Visibility of Fuji can vary a lot so having a couple days in the area gives you a better chance of having actual good views. And again, this would help with your luggage storage issue.

    As far as covid changing anything… you should generally be good. I feel like Japan barely responded to the pandemic. Businesses that relied on tourism have been more likely to close (think ryokan, some restaurants, some shopping) so if you are set on specific places, you’ll want most updated information to see if they still exist. Cash was still quite prevalent when I was there (mid 2020).

  10. Looks like a fun trip. I don’t think you would have too much trouble storing luggage unless you have a lot or your luggage has extreme dimensions. You should be able to find enough coin lockers in the train stations.

    Even before COVID, I often made last-minute bookings for accommodations and had no problem finding a suitable place so you should be fine in that regard as well.

    If you’re not getting the JR pass, you should get tourist subway passes in Tokyo at the information centers at train stations. It’s like 1500 yen for a 3 day pass and you just need to bring your passport. You can also purchase them numerous times. Not sure if things have changed after COVID though.

  11. I think two weeks is juuust enough time to take in Tokyo, Kyoto, and somewhere in between. That said, I think you need to take your Kansai portion and decide whether you want to visit Osaka+surrounding area or Kyoto. OR you should cut out the middle section. There is a LOT in Kyoto. Unless you are very set on exactly what you want to see and do in Kyoto, you’re going to need at least two days. You could take one day for a daytrip somewhere but to be honest, if you’ll be in Kyoto, I think you should just stay there.

    As you’ll be attending a conference, luggage is unavoidable. You may check with the hotel to see if they are willing to hold a suitcase for you for a week. If so, this could allow you to take only a backpack which I highly suggest as a solo traveler.

    If you are on a budget, I suggest you purchase the rail pass. First, it is more-or-less equivalent to a round trip between Tokyo and Kyoto/Osaka. But more importantly, it will alleviate any STRESS you have about your budget. If you discover something interesting, you won’t have to say, “Well, how much extra will that cost me and can I afford it?” and then feel bad about whatever decision you make.

    For your hiking in between, I would personally suggest Kamikochi as I think it’s well-suited for a casual couple days. There is an overnight bus to Kamikochi from Kyoto if that’s something you can handle. It’s about 10000 JPY but you do save a night in a hotel.

    In Kamikochi, there are various trails up and down the valley and then also some trails that go up into the mountains. You can either bring your own tent and camp for a small fee (I think around 1000 JPY), or you can arrange a futon in their mountain “huts” they’re called but more like a very big cabin that’s a mini-“hotel”. Remember, some of them are serviced only by helicopter so hold your expectations accordingly. It will cost around 10000 JPY/night to stay there but the upside is you don’t need to bring anything but yourself.

    If you’re fit, the [Karasawa Hutte](https://goo.gl/maps/73ZzD2k77AfC26Tg8) is a reasonable target to hike to in one day. I don’t suggest you try to go any further as the route can be daunting and I’d say very hazardous at best if it gets dark. But the next day, you can easily take the hike and hike up to the mountain and then back down (and even further down if you’d like). If you’d like something more relaxed, you can consider either [Tokusawa](https://goo.gl/maps/9LLpGpPNxyaMVVQw6) or [Yokoo](https://goo.gl/maps/8d9XPowCPNr38Ra36). In general, I’d say Tokusawa is a little more “commercial” in that it’s probably the deepest any “casuals” would go in one night, so when I was there, it was quite busy (I wouldn’t say busy by Japanese standards but depending on what you’re used to, could certainly be considered busy) and it looked like a few schools or classes on their school trips there, as well as many families with small children, etc. It’s better staffed and serviced, simply by virtue of being more accessible. But don’t worry, it’s not like they plopped a Hilton in the middle of the woods.

    For onsens, Matsumoto is nearby and has some nice onsens that will be cheaper than staying in Kamikochi proper. Friend and I stayed there after a three-day hike in Kamikochi and it was great.

    For what it’s worth, my friend and had a schedule like this:

    Day 1: Arrive, hike to Karasawa, camp.

    Day 2: Hike to Hotakasanso, arrive around noon/early afternoon, camp.

    Day 3: Hike out to Tokusawa, camp.

    Day 4: Hike out completely, go relax at onsen in Matsumoto.

  12. I disagree with ppl saying to just stay in Tokyo. If you can afford it, Koyoto’s worth the visit for 2-3 days. Unless you’ll be back to Japan in the near future?! Now you could probably skip Osaka, as it will overlap in experience with Tokyo a fair amount. You might also skip Nara, as it’s a lot of time investment for a single park. Nara makes sense if you do the full 5-6 days around Osaka/Kyoto though.

    Do another full day or two in Kyoto instead of “Mystery location.” There will be far more to do in all of these locations (barring Nara,) than you will have time to see even if you had 10x the time. More time in fewer locations will allow you to be efficient and get more done.

  13. If you are the superhero “Flash” then go ahead, otherwise change your plans xD.
    You will ruin yourself the pleasure of visiting if you force yourself to see in one day all that places.
    I’ve been in Tokyo e Kyoto before the pandemic, 3/4 days each city and damn we missed so much.
    Japan is BIG, the cities are huge, you cannot visit all the places in one day for each, you would have to run literally all the time.
    Trust me and other redditors, stay in Tokyo only, there is so much to see and to do and you will save lot of money.

  14. If you like hiking and is interested to visit the 5 lakes, I recommend that go and stay overnight for Day 2-3. Unless you plan to touch and go, I think a day trip alone is not enough time! Taking a hike in aokigahara (strongly recommend) would take up half a day already, and considering travel time one way from tokyo is roughly 4 hours, there isn’t much time to explore if it was done as a day trip.

    So maybe Day 2 -> travel from tokyo + Kawaguchiko + aokigahara
    Day 3 -> the rest of the lakes + back to tokyo.

    I would also recommend that you spend more time in kansai area to make the shinkansen cost more worth it (tokyo ain’t that fun lol). Otherwise visiting tohoku with the JR EAST PASS (5 days) might be a better budget option. There is plenty to see and hikes to be done in the area (check out yamadera!)

  15. To save money, explore:
    – open jaw flights (fly in Tokyo then fly out Osaka/Kansai)
    – overnight bus from Tokyo to Kansai – this is WAY cheaper and very comfortable IMO. Also saves you the rail pass which is more often than not NOT worth it when you only visit two major areas (Tokyo/Kansai)
    – to echo other comments, stick around and base out if Tokyo – more than enough to do in the area and changing base is both time consuming and relatively costly in my experience.
    – if you plan to change accommodation, definitely pack light. You should be able to go about 30L without tech for two weeks. Remember Tokyo and Kansai are both very metropolitan and you could buy almost everything while there. You would be thankful when you don’t have to lug your bag up six flights of stairs while rushing for a train in a major station (looking at you Tokyo Station)

  16. It sounds like you really want to do Kyoto since you have the opportunity to and you’ve done some basic math on costs. Go for it ! There is plenty to do and see without paying for attractions and really good inexpensive food (at least last I went in 2019).

    One thing to consider is shipping some luggage back to the airport after your conference. You can send any conference clothing, materials (hand outs books whatever) and whatever shopping you’ve done till that point to the airport then pick it up when you get there. It lightens what you have to manage for the rest of the trip. I’ve done it. I also packed a smaller bag inside my larger suitcase to use for the rest of the trip.

  17. I’ve done this, with the same cities (not Nara, but also Fukuoka for yattai, Sapporo for crab) with just a backpack a few times. The first time I used a lightweight Granite Gear Crown 60L (November trip) which was perfect for 14 days, the last time I used a MSPC (Pronounced Masterpiece, bought from MSPC HQ in Osaka) and the most beautiful & elegant business travel backpack that is about 40L (April trip) bought a tiny folding ultra light backpack at Muji to be a day bag. I just bought a Osprey Fairview and haven’t tried it yet, but it was half off. All the stairs you will be climbing necessitate a travel backpack.

    I only brought 4max of anything because I would do hand wash at every stop. The pavement and stairs are brutal, so bring easy-on & off sandals, shoes, extra shoe insoles, and hiking specific socks. It rains quite a bit and can also get brutally hot. I just read you are coming from UK, and twice I have brought a Brompton folding bike for my multi modal transportation, which was worth all the trouble of bringing, borrow one if you’re ready to adventure.

    Spend the first day to get all the train tickets (even with JR rail pass) at the service desk with your itinerary, it’s nice to get assigned seating and to have all the tickets in front of you to be able to use your time well and know you have the right ticket-which you can easily match it to the platform assigned. The bento store at Tokyo station is a must-visit.

    Go to Nishiki market when it opens up, it’s nice without crowds. Buy your tengui here. Tsukiji market is also a fun place to eat at 5am, lines are long at that time too. If you haven’t heard of it, “Pretty good #1” is a great book on a family visiting Japan and the food they eat. Some of the department stores (Daimaru) sell their food very discounted after 8pm, right before they close.
    Have a picnic kit for chopsticks and cutlery, a proper ramen soup spoon and napkin. The plastic spoons given out with some ramen are inadequate and it’s depressing to see how much plastic trash Japan generates.

    Onsen time is worth it, my favorite was one about an hour away from Tokyo, Toshimaen Niwa-no-yu.
    It features baths from all bath cultures: like Hamamm and sauna.

  18. Can you tell us your budget first?your 17 days trip definitely not gonna be cheap. How cheap is your cheap? Eating onigiri 3 meals a day?

  19. My 2 yen:

    1. Cards are more widespread, yes, as well as QR code payments (Paypay, Alipay etc. – you’re probably not eligible for them though), so it’s much easier than it used to be. You still need cash for a lot of tourist stuff though, like buying food from vendors etc. If you need extra cash, convenience stores have ATMs you can use, and I think most of them accept international cards nowadays.
    Though some businesses have gone bankrupt, most are open, or been replaced by others. During states of emergency, opening hours of restaurants have been restricted, and serving alcohol as well, but other than that, nothing. I don’t see that as being a risk for June, given that they’re talking of making it even easier for tourists to come, so you should be fine.
    2. There are coin lockers at major stations, and you can also ask the place you’re staying at if you can store luggage with them. Oversize luggage will not fit in lockers though, so you’ll need to think compact – probably something smaller for the Kansai trip.

    As for Kansai itself:

    – Kyoto busses suck. They really really suck. They’re slow, overcrowded, you have to wait forever, and may not even get to ride one because it’s too full. That may be slightly better now since there aren’t that many foreign tourists, but I would still avoid going to sites that require them, or take a taxi (don’t do this for Arashiyama – I suggest skipping that entirely). It’s not that expensive, and you save a lot of time and headaches. Look up the times that the place you want to go closes, not just opens. Kinkakuji for instance closes at 16 usually, Kiyomizu-dera at 17. Fushimi-inari taisha does not close, but I’d still try to avoid trekking far up or down the mountain after sundown because of risk of injury (it is lit up though).
    – Being based on Osaka is better for food and nightlife IMO, and also gives you easier access to Kobe (beef – go there for lunch, it’s cheaper) and Himeji. Himeji Castle is a thousand times better than Osaka Castle. Osaka Castle is a modern concrete structure (a museum) with the traditional castle structure placed on top of it. Himeji is the actual castle how it was back when. Sometimes there is a free tour guide (in English) in front, and I seriously recommend you get one if you can.
    – Nara is… deer and Todaiji. Get in, see Todaiji, get out. Don’t get bit by deer if you buy deer biscuits. You were warned.

    Tokyo:

    – Go for Kamakura+Enoshima if you have good weather.
    – Nikko is great if you want to get out into nature for a bit.

    JR train pass:

    – Get a 1 week pass for the Kansai trip, and then use it also on JR lines within Tokyo. As long as you don’t need luggage space and a reservation, ride the Shinkansen when you can, as it can save you extra time and also (usually) get you a seat you can sit in. When you’re tired from a long day of walking and sightseeing, not having to stand in a crowded train for an hour counts for a lot. You can also reserve a seat if you want, for free.

  20. Day 11- Kyoto
    Next to nishiki there is a Tom’s mister Hedgy, a hedgehog cafe that I loved. I would skip any museums in Kyoto in favour of hanging out in Gion and cram in as many temples as possible. They have little teahouses where for about 4 pounds you can get matcha (hot/cold) and a treat made for that specific temple, which we loved eating in the garden at the teahouses. Maybe book a teaceremony, if that fits your budget. So worth the experience and the tranquility of the ritual is a pleasant break from an otherwise stimuli heavy vacation. We did a ceremony close to Ginkakuji, and think back to it fondly. Also walk the Lamigawa river at night for pretty lights. Can you tell I love Kyoto? Also, the arashima can be missed, but mount Inari is very pleasant.

  21. Oh and light packing is a must for the amount of travelling, you’ll be climbing a lot of stairs, especially in Tokyo.
    And 7/11 food is AMAZING unlike in other countries, so breakfast and lunch can easily come from there. Buy vitamin pouches instead of fruits, use vending machines, they’re everywhere and politely priced.

  22. Honestly with less tourists I would consider just staying in Kyoto instead of Osaka. You’ll probably never be able to see Kyoto with so few tourists again. Osaka is just another city, it doesn’t matter as much it may even be better with more tourists around.

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