Trip report: Festivals and solo exploring in late July

First time in Japan, taking a workcation by myself. I purposely timed my trip to coincide with some of the biggest festivals, and I enjoy seeing shrines and temples. Lurking in this subreddit was a huge help in finding things beyond an initial web search, and I love reading trip reports, so wanted to share my own.

As a tourist, I like wandering on foot, eating fancy food, and experiencing local culture. I decided to focus on Kyoto due to the festivals, with just a few days in Tokyo. It turned out to be a good decision, because Kyoto was my favorite city. I found Osaka and Tokyo a bit overwhelming as a solo traveler.

As I typed this up, I realized my meals took up a large chunk, so I broke them out into a separate dining post over in /r/JapanTravelTips.

## Logistics

* **Clothes:** Light clothes for the heat and humidity. Broken-in sneakers for walking. Picking a hotel with in-house washer and dryer (coin-op) is super useful in the summer.
* **Luggage:** Had some big pieces since my friends had a *lot* of goodies requests, and **takkyubin** made life much better. Reusable shopping bags for shopping and for carrying trash.
* **Transportation:** Didn’t get a JR Pass as I mostly stayed in Kyoto. Taking Nozomi gave more flexibility since they are more frequent. I bought Shinkansen tickets day-of and used Suica on phone for local transit.
* **Getting around:** I prefer walking, averaging 20k-25k steps a day, with a max day of ~33k steps and a min day of ~17k steps (minus arrival/departure days). I’d take the bus or subway to try to avoid sweating buckets.
* **Connectivity:** I used roaming with Google Fi and had no issues.
* **Weather:** For anyone used to places like SE Asia, the heat+humidity combo is fine. I ran into a friend from Singapore and they were completely unfazed. Regardless, sunscreen is a must. The sun can already start burning during the walk to a subway station. Stay hydrated. Use an umbrella to block the sun but be considerate of others.
* **Language:** I don’t speak any Japanese beyond basic, polite phrases. Google Translate works great, but English is enough in the 3 big cities at many places.
* **Itinerary:** With a lot of one-time events and restaurant reservations, I followed a pre-planned itinerary pretty closely. Started every day around 4am to work with some US hours overlap. This worked out well since I could visit shrines and temples before the day got hot and the crowds arrived.
* **Money:** Relied mostly on credit card but pre-exchanged some cash before traveling. CC tap-to-pay was less common than I expected. Some places had tap-to-pay only for transit cards, so I also used Suica. As many people say, cash-only isn’t as common anymore, but be prepared to have a *lot* of coins. Temples/shrines are all cash.
* **Budgeting:** I don’t make a budget but I track all my spending. This helped as my CC number got stolen in Japan.
* **Pictures:** Lots of waiting for the “iconic” pictures. Most temples/shrines don’t allow pics inside, so paying for admission may not be worth it if you value photos. You can usually see the inside while standing outside. For the fine dining restaurants, I asked if pictures were ok (only one didn’t allow pictues).

## Day 1: Arrival and Shinkansen to Kyoto

* **Immigration, customs, takkyubin:** Arrived at Narita late afternoon. I used a QR code, but immigration was empty with no line. Takkyubin from the airport cost ~$20 for a large check-in sized suitcase. It was worth not having to drag luggage around when trying to navigate transfers and large stations. All of this took maybe 40 minutes, with the longest wait at the bag claim.
* **Narita Express:** Bought tickets for N’EX and Shinkansen (regular reserved seat) at the airport station. My CCs were rejected at the machine, but luckily I had pre-exchangd cash.
* **Shinkansen to Kyoto:** Transferred from N’EX to Shinkansen at Shinagawa as many advised (thanks!). The transfer gate confused me. I didn’t realize I had to put all 3 of my tickets in (N’EX, Shinkansen, and Local) instead of just the Shinkansen ticket. The gate agents were all efficient and super helpful. Got a west-side window on the Shinkansen, so I saw Mt. Fuji (covered by some clouds).
* **Arrival in Kyoto:** Got to Kyoto station at night and bought some konbini food. Took the bus to the hotel, checked-in, ate, and then slept.

## Day 2: Hongan-ji, Nijo Castle, downtown Kyoto

* **Breakfast at Lorimer Kyoto** – Japanese style breakfast.
* **Higashi Hongan-ji:** *Free* – As the first temple I saw, the size of it is really impressive. They’re well prepared for tourists – bags provided to carry shoes around, a museum, stamp stations for kids (not goshuin stamps), and a full-on gift shop. The museum gave a lot of context on the history of Japan and of Kyoto specifically. That context helped with understanding a lot of the temples and shrines I visited after.
* **Nishi Hongan-ji:** *Free* – Smaller in scale than Higashi Hongan-ji and a bit more out of the way, but nevertheless impressive. They have a massive gingko tree in front that is cool to see.
* **Nijo-jo Castle:** *¥800* – Unfortunately the castle was closed, but the gardens were still open. Spent some time wandering around the gardens admiring the landscaping. The grounds also has an “overlook” area from which to see the cityscape. I stopped at the tea house garden for some kakkigori. Sweet shaved ice is sweet relief after a day of walking in 95 degree heat. Looking out on the tea house gardens was a nice bonus.
* **Kyoto Kawaramachi area** – Started the souvenir/gifts shopping spree here for my friends. Disney has a lot of Japan exclusives (even outside of the park) and offers tax-free shopping. Kiddy Land had a lot of character-based goodies. Don Quijote on Kawaramachi surprised me, since it wasn’t like a “typical” Don Quijote – they didn’t play the jingle, and the layout was particularly claustrophobic.

## Day 3: Nara day-trip

* **Local express train to Nara:** *~¥1,000* – Took about 40 minutes from Kyoto station to west Nara.
* **Yakushi-ji:** *¥1,600* – I paid for the higher-tier admissions to the East and West pagodas. Unless you’re really into carved art, or scenes from Buddhism, the pagodas add-on is skippable. They’re best viewed from outside, where they frame the main hall.
* **Toshodai-ji:** *¥1,000* – Unlike the open grounds of the other temples, this was a garden temple with sub-sections of different types of landscaping (a small island, a moss garden, etc.). I’d recommend this temple for a smaller, cozier feel with amazing gardens, but it’s far from the main Nara attractions.
* **Noborioji Park and Kofuku-ji** – This part of Nara is *really* touristy. It swarmed with people and deer. The deer sometimes headbutted and nipped people who just bought deer crackers. They were cute to see even without feeding them. I wandered Kofuku-ji’s grounds but didn’t go in. It felt less like curated temple grounds and more like a collection of co-located buildings.
* **Todai-ji:** *¥600* – The area around Todai-ji is crammed with gift-shops, but the temple sells a lot of souvenirs for cheaper. I got limited admission to view the giant Buddha statue – pictures don’t do the size justice. The day felt particularly hot, so I skipped Kasuga Taisha.
* **Lunch at Soba-dokoro Kitahara** – Soba restaurant by Todai-ji.
* **Local train to Kyoto:** *~¥1,000* – Headed back to Kyoto to do more shopping for friends. I ended up on a commuter train, which was an experience of sorts. It was quieter than a funeral, and I was the only one not wearing black/navy blue bottoms with a white button up.
* **Dinner at Kyoboshi** – A tempura restaurant tucked away in Gion.

## Day 4: Imperial Palace and Sakyo Ward

* **Kyoto Sento Imperial Palace:** *Free* – Kyoto Sento Imperial Palace only allows visitors in as part of a guided tour (audio guides for non-Japanese languages). They often have walk-up slots, and passports are required for entry. The tour focuses on the beautifully landscaped gardens and ponds. Would love to visit in spring or autumn.
* **Yoshidayama Park** – My biggest mistake. I tried to go through the park to Yoshida Shrine and Takenaka Inari Shrine before lunch. I became lunch. So many bugs everywhere; I ended up with a few bites that swelled to the size of a phone. Needless to say, I gave up on going to the shrines and went to a drugstore for antihistamines instead.
* **Lunch at Sojiki Nakahigashi** – A kaiseki restaurant near Ginkaku-ji.
* **Higashiyama Jisho-ji:** *¥500* – Also known as Ginkaku-ji. They’re well set-up for tourists, with a one-way path through the gardens and instructions to drop off shuincho before going through the grounds. Located on the hills, it provides a nice view of northern Kyoto. The winding path includes some steps and a slight climb. Very picturesque, but the main pavilion looked small after Higashi-ji and Todai-ji. The street leading up to Ginkaku-ji has plenty of interesting souvenir shops to browse.
* **Okazaki-jinja** – A quick stop, but a very cute shrine. Rabbit statues frame the pavilions and buildings. I tried to buy some cute omamoris, but the miko looked at my weird and asked if I wanted a pregnancy one. Oops. I didn’t realize the bunnies symbolized fertility and childbirth.
* **Otoyo-jinja** – Animal shrine (mice, snakes, monkeys, crows, etc.). Hidden in the hills on the edge of Kyoto, this shrine is small and not really manned. I wouldn’t go out of the way for it, but it’s a good stop if you love animals and are walking Philosopher’s Path.
* **Philosopher’s Path** – Walked along this for a bit as it offered a shady path. It’s serene during the summer heat and not crowded.
* **Shopping around Kyoto Kawaramachi** – Checked out the food hall at Kawaramachi Garden and walked along Shijo-dori. Bought some lotion. Seems counter-intuitive with the humidity, but the constant showering was drying me out.

## Day 5: To-ji and local exploring

* **Breakfast at Ki:** – A Lebanese restaurant in Shimogyo that serves breakfast and lunch.
* **To-ji and Kobo-ichi market:** *¥500* – Checked out the Kobo-ichi market, held once a month at To-ji. It sprawls all over the temple grounds, so lots to explore. Kobo-ichi was like a cross-over between a handicraft fair and a flea market. The market is part of a monthly religious festival, so there were lots of people praying and making offerings around the buildings. While there, I explored the inside of the temple and the gardens area. Aesthetically, To-ji had the best balance of open grounds and manicured gardens of all the temples I visited.
* **Aeon mall Kyoto:** A lot of Japan’s malls build up, rather than out like American malls, so most shops are grouped by floors. Some people were passing out face masks and tissues for a local traffic safety awareness campaign while I was there. Nothing special about Aeon mall, just wanted to see what a local mall was like.
* **Kyoto station, Kyoto Tower Sando, Yodobashi:** Walked through the shops at Kyoto station. Unsurprisingly pretty busy with travelers. Across the street, Kyoto Tower Sando is like a small food hall at the base floor of Kyoto Tower. Next door to Kyoto Tower was Yodobashi, a massive department store mostly focused on electronics and home accessories.
* **Pokemon Center:** Kyoto’s Pokemon Center was probably the tamest one I went to the whole trip, in terms of crowd. Each Pokemon Center has a slightly different selection of plushies and goods. I think Kyoto had more stickers/stationery items than others.
* **Tokyu Hands:** A popular Japanese department store chain that started with (and still has a strong focus on) DIY. I needed some duct tape for a cracked suitcase.
* **Dinner at Kiyama** – A kaiseki restaurant by the imperial palace grounds.

## Day 6: Higashiyama, Fushimi Inari, and friends

* **Breakfast at Sokoku** – A breakfast place close to the Kyoto National Museum. They only open on the weekends.
* **Rokuharamitsu Temple and Kennin-ji** – Spent the morning exploring some temples in the Higashiyama area. Rokuharamitsu is small and lively. It’s one of the temples in Kyoto that represents one of the “Seven Gods of Fortune.” Kennin-ji was mostly closed when I went, so I explored the grounds but none of the buildings.
* **Japan Kanji Museum:** *¥800* – A small museum dedicated to writing. It covered kanji, hiragana, katakana, calligraphy, and how to render the characters in printing presses and computers. I couldn’t understand most of it, but it was certainly unique.
* **Yasaka-jinja:** – Bustling with tourists and locals for the month-long Gion Matsuri. The shrine felt like a lively community center, rather than a tranquil place of reflection.
* **Lunch at Shinmonzen Yonemura** – A Japanese-western fusion restaurant near Yasaka-jinja.
* **Fushimi Inari for Yoimiya** – One of the highlights of my trip! I arrived in the late afternoon to see the shrine and explore the grounds before dark. Since it was the evening of Yoimiya, it was probably even more crowded than usual. The whole place had a lively atmosphere. Festival stalls were setting up, red lanterns framed the buildings, and there were many processions and rituals to witness. They lined the initial torii gates with lanterns, and it felt like magic to walk down the lantern lit path after dusk. The crowds thinned out by the halfway point since there were no more lanterns, so it was dark and hard to climb to the top. Higher up the path, I saw lots of feral cats, but no wild boars. I didn’t stay for the night festivities as I ran into a friend and their family, who all invited me to join them for dinner at Pontocho alley.
* **Pontocho alley** – At least, we attempted to find a place around there. The restaurants were either all full or very overpriced (or rather, very much priced for the river view).
* **Dinner at Tonkatsu Buta-Gorilla** – Katsu restaurant by Nishiki Market and Kawaramachi.

## Day 7: Kamigamo, Gion Matsuri Yoiyama

* **Kawai-jinja, Tadasu-no-Mori, Shimogamo-jinja** – Started the morning early to get to the northern part of Kyoto. Riding the bus all the way up was a nice way of seeing the city before it woke up. Walked from Kawai-jinja to Shimogamo-jinja via Tadasu-no-Mori’s spacious paths. Ran into a large group of people doing a morning exercise dance, similar to tai chi but not quite. The area in front of Shimogamo-jinja had some stalls setup like a market or festival, but nothing was going on that early in the day.
* **Breakfast at Briant** – A western-style breakfast bakery by Kyoto Botanical Garden.
* **Kamigamo-jinja and Kamigamo Handicraft Market** – I enjoyed Kamigamo-jinja. It stood out to me even when I was starting to feel the temple/shrine fatigue. The way the shrine is built embraces the river that winds through it. It also incorporates the forest and hill around it, so the area feels integrated rather than curated. I also wandered the Kamigamo Handicraft Market, held on the shrine grounds once a month. True to its name, this market had all handicrafts which were great to browse. The goods were pretty different from US or European craft fairs I’ve attended. I only regret not having enough luggage space to get more.
* **Lunch at Gion Kappo Sakamoto** – A kappo restaurant overlooking Shirakawa Lane.
* **Round 1** – A Japanese amusement center with outposts in the US. Dragonair, Lotso, and Kirby were popular crane prizes. Their cranes had a better chance of success than the ones usually found in arcade centers of shopping malls. No matter the time of day, *maimai* always had dedicated players. Although Round 1 offers an enclosed smoking room, the smell leaked out.
* **Gion (Ato) Matsuri: Yoiyama and Byobu Matsuri** – At night, I explored the floats on display for Yoiyama. I started at Ofune Hoko, not realizing it’s one of the grandest floats for the Ato Matsuri. Due to congestion, it’s hard to stop and admire the float. It’s located in a narrow alley, so traffic directors try to keep the crowd moving at all times. I paid ¥500 to visit the Ofune-hoko Machiya and go on the float. Guests must remove their shoes before going upstairs in the machiya and viewing some antique artwork. When I got to the front of the line to board the float, they blocked visitors so the hayashikata musicians could board. By sheer luck, having a front row seat to the music of flutes, drums, and gongs made for one of the most memorable moments of my trip. It also made a big dent in my time to explore. Afterward I could only walk by Minami Kannon Yama and Kite Kannon Yama before things started shutting down for the night. Along the way, I saw some of family heirloom displays of the Byobu Matsuri, from folding screens to samurai armor and garden bridges. I loved the feeling of walking in a city that felt like one giant museum.

## Day 8: Kiyomizu-dera, Gion Matsuri

* **Kiyomizu-dera:** *¥400* – Going early offered a view of the temple with the sun peaking over the roofs and few people to jostle with for prime photo spots. The grounds are extensive but require some stairs/hill climbing to fully explore. Pretty as pictures are, this is one place to see in person to really feel the grandeur. I imagine it feels less serene when super crowded though.
* **Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka** – I wandered Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka after Kiyomizu-dera, mostly to appreciate the traditional architecture. It was too early for any shops to be open, though the Starbucks already had a line. I got another lucky break at this point, being able to see Sannenzaka straight down to the Hokan-ji pagoda with no one else around.
* **Gion (Ato) Matsuri: Yamaboko Junko and Hanagasa Junko** – I arrived at 9 am, and still didn’t beat the crowd, even though nothing would come by until 10:30 or so. I picked an intersection where both the Hanagasa Junko and the Yamaboko Junko pass by. It’s also where the Yamaboko Junko floats make a turn. In the lead up, electricians were moving the traffic lights to the side so the floats could get through. The Hanagasa Junko came by first, with children pulling floats, women parading in flowered hats, and lion dancers. As the first large float of Yamaboko Junko came towards the intersection, people were laying down bamboo reeds and splashing them with water. The giant wheels of the float stopped on these, and then they used thick sticks as levers to turn the float 30 degrees at a time. The whole procession was held up each time a large float needed to turn. For smaller floats, groups of men would lift them up on shoulder bars and turn them. Throughout Yamaboko Junko, the music of the hayashikata musicians accompanied the floats. Overall, I’m very glad I got to witness Gion Matsuri. It’s very traditional, rhythmic, and very different from Western style parades.
* **Desserts at Coffee Base BnA** – Small modern-art-museum themed hotel with a cafe.
* **Gion (Ato) Matsuri: Mikoshi Procession** – The traditions and rituals of Gion Matsuri continued throughout the day. With the Mikoshi Procession, men carry a large shrine on their shoulders as they parade through the streets, bouncing and chanting. They often swap in and out of carrying as the procession makes its winding way through the city.
* **Dinner at SEN** – A kaiseki restaurant around central Kyoto.

## Day 9: Osaka day-trip, Tenjin Matsuri

* **Train to Osaka, non-Shinkansen** *¥580* – Took a non-Shinkansen train to Osaka Umeda station. Not 15 minutes, but not super long either. No complaints as someone who didn’t get the JR Pass.
* **Osaka Umeda Station Daimaru** – I didn’t plan on shopping, but while I was trying to find Umeda Station’s exit, I saw signs for the Pokemon and Nintendo store. It was so chaotic. The line to purchase took at least 30 minutes if not more. While I was in line, I saw they even had to close the store until the crowd became more manageable. The Nintendo store’s checkout line was better, but not by much. Both stores have someone holding a sign to signify where the end of the check-out line is.
* **Tenjin Matsuri: Osaka Tenmangu** – My original reason for going to Osaka – Tenjin Matsuri. The initial rituals are all at the shrine. As someone who’s not religious and only there to watch the festivities, Tenjin Matsuri was more engaging than Gion Matsuri. The celebrations are raucous and more performative, with a variety of fast-beat music, dances, and rituals. The sound of metal gongs and drums really reverberate in the air. From the shrine, the procession goes out the gate and then parades through the city.
* **Tenjin Matsuri: festival stalls** – Instead of following the procession, I went to check out the festival stalls in the surrounding area. Like most festivals, the food stalls were overpriced and not very good. Since the day was hot, I tried a cucumber on a stick. It indeed tasted like a cucumber.
* **Tenjin Matsuri: river boats** – Following the crowd, I found myself at Tenjinbashi bridge. River cargo boats and a construction crane sat at the dock, waiting for the floats to arrive. Dondoko boats were already rowing up and down the river with their lively drumming and chanting. For many participants, the river procession was their first chance to rest. After the first float was secured to the boat, they kicked off the river procession with a large “KANPAI!”. Barges with guests and performers also go along the river, joining the Dondoko boats in creating a festive atmosphere. I left early, missing the fireworks, so that I could catch the train back to Kyoto before the post-festival crush.

## Day 10: Nishiki Market, taking things slow

* **Desserts at Mister Donut and Totaro** – Started the morning with a few dessert places I had been eyeing. Tried a Mister Donut white bean mochi donut, then headed to Totaro for a raw sugar pudding with matcha. I liked the standing-room only, open plan machiya aesthetic at Totaro, but eating a dessert in silence (not even background music) felt odd, especially as there were other customers too.
* **Nishiki Market, Teramachi-dori, and Shinkyogoku** – Finally went through Nishiki Market and Termachi-dori. In the late morning, some stores were still closed at Nishiki Market. There were a lot of snacking options, groceries, and souvenir stores, mostly focused on food. Teramachi-dori and Shinkyogoku had more fun shops to browse, with second hand clothes, gachapons, and general variety stores. They were also wider than Nishikikoji-dori, making them more relaxing to linger and window-shop.
* **Cafe SNC** – A small, passion-project cafe that opens into a park.
* **Dinner at Muromachi Wakuden** – A kaiseki restaurant by the Kyoto imperial palaces.

## Day 11: Tokyo, Asakusa Skytree, Character Street

* **Shinkansen to Tokyo** – Once again, the machine didn’t accept my credit cards, so I used cash. I decided to try a Green Car this time. It was more comfortable and far less crowded, which was nice for a long, uninterrupted nap. Not sure I’d pony up for it again though.
* **Asakusa Skytree** – Dropped off luggage at my Tokyo hotel, then headed to Skytree to check out the mall and the variety of character stores they had. Like every other Pokemon store, the selection was slightly different. There were also stores I hadn’t found in Kyoto or Osaka, such as Kirby Cafe and Doraemon. The restaurant level was lively, and I decided to grab lunch here.
* **Lunch at Sushi Zanmai** – A popular sushi chain in Tokyo.
* **Character Street** – Tokyo station is labyrinthine. Exiting the subway, I got turned around for a good 15 minutes or more before I found myself in Character Street. I stumbled upon it by sheer dumb luck, because following signs didn’t help. Character Street was *packed* and overstimulating. It combines so many different shops in one small area, it’s easily the best place to get character souvenirs if you’re not looking for something niche. If you’re into a lot of characters and kawaii goodies, it’s like going to Costco without a shopping list, while hungry.
* **Dinner at Takagaki no Sushi** – An omakase sushi restaurant in Nihombashi.

## Day 12: Shibuya, Disneyland Tokyo Resort Ikspiari, Tokyo Disney Sea

* **Shibuya Scramble, Hachiko, Mega Don Quijote** – Headed to Shibuya in the morning to avoid the crazy crowds. I didn’t see Shibuya Scramble in all its glory, but still a busy bustle. The wait at the Hachiko statue stretched well into the plaza. For a similar replica without the wait, head to Mega Don Quijote. They have a small but very similar looking Hachiko statue just inside the entrance. Shibuya’s Mega Don Quijote was more true to form than its Kyoto counterpart, with the “Don Don Don, Donki” jingle accompanying shoppers.
* **Shibuya Parco and Disney store** – More character shopping. At this point, it was so repetitive that I would dash through the stores to see what small things were unique before rushing out. The design and layout of the Shibuya Disney store is cute, and they had a lot of collaboration pieces with Japanese brands. Far better selection than Kyoto’s Disney store.
* **Tokyo Disney Resort Ikspiari** – I headed to Ikspiari before my night admission for Disney Sea. Both Bon Voyage and the Disney Store offer resort exclusive goods. Ikspiari is a mostly covered shopping area, and it felt a bit empty and sad compared to the atmospheres of Downtown Disney or Disney Springs. Spent most of the time video chatting my friend who wanted to see all of the Japan exclusive goodies.
* **Tokyo Disney Sea night admissions:** *¥5,100* – I took the Disney resort rail to Tokyo Disney Sea. Unlike the US Disney resorts, this rail line cost money. It is a *lot* more themed, from the color to the windows and even the hand rings to hold on to. The queue for night admission wasn’t bad. I didn’t have any plan, just wandering. There are unique churro and popcorn flavors, like sweet soy sauce churros, but sometimes the lines were massive (e.g. Garlic Shrimp popcorn). I liked taking in the unique design and atmosphere of Disney Sea, but it felt a bit overhyped. Everything closed early, with snack carts shutting at 7pm (or even 6pm for some ice-cream carts). There were fewer single-rider lines than the US parks, and they weren’t all open. The park itself closed at 9pm, so I skipped a few rides in order to see the whole park. It’s still worth checking out if you have the time and like Disney. Disney Sea had some goods that weren’t available at Bon Voyage, mostly Duffy and Friends items. I had planned to buy my friend’s stuff at the end, so I wouldn’t need to carry it through the park. That was a *big mistake*. I have never seen a Disney store so crammed at the end of the day, not at Disney CA, not at Disney World, not at Disney Paris. I literally could not move for minutes at a time. The crowd continues to the resort rail, then on to the subway back to Tokyo. Staying at a Disney resort hotel would make the whole experience a lot less stressful. If you can afford it, staying at MiraCosta hotel looked fun, as people waved their phone flashlights down on the departing crowds while soaking in the atmosphere.

## Day 13: Akihabara, Shinjuku, and Ikebukuro

* **Akihabara** – I didn’t go around Akihabara, but I did explore all of Radio Kaikan. The stores sell items from a wide variety of anime shows, but they definitely cater towards trends. Mostly figurines, but more popular brands had more variety. There was even a store that sold gachapon toys for a hefty markup, minus the uncertainty of gachapons. I didn’t linger long as I’m not super into anime, electronices, or otaku/weeb culture.
* **Shinjuku Eisa** – Glad I arrived at Shinjuku in time to catch some of the drumming and dancing performances for Shinjuku Eisa. This one had a “street festival” structure, with performance and stage areas scattered about and stalls taking up some spaces in between. The style of drumming incorporates dancing and stamping in a high energy fashion. They’ve adapted the performances so that some are done to traditional singing, while others are accompanied by more pop/rock-style music. A battalion of volunteers and police officers ensure that bystanders go into roped off areas and foot traffic can keep flowing. Above one of the Shinjuku Eisa performance areas, the Cross Shinjuku Vision cat stared down on visitors as it lolled around.
* **Lunch at Sohonke Komatsuan:** *¥1750* – Lunch at Takashimaya Shinjuku.
* **Ikebukuro Sunshine City** – From Shinjuku, I went north to Ikebukuro and Sunshine City. Similar to when I went to Shibuya Parco, I felt that the character stores were more of the same. Maybe I went to the wrong places, but I felt that Ikebukuro didn’t offer much that was unique from other, more central neighborhoods in Tokyo. Feeling shopped out and tired from hopping around the city, I decided to skip the Sumidagawa crowds and grab some konbini food to bring back to the hotel.

## Day 14: Ginza, packing, and goodbye

* **Breakfast at Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan** – An early-morning sushi spot in Tsukiji.
* **Ginza** – Wandered Ginza to explore, but I wasn’t looking to buy any brand name goods or watches/jewelry. Compared to most of Tokyo, the store fronts are very wide and spread out. They shut the street to car traffic on the weekends, making it easier to mill about from one store the next. Shopping in Ginza is more like NYC’s 5th avenue or Singapore’s Orchard Road, less like Milan’s Via Monte Napoleone or Paris’ Avenue Montaigne.
* **Packing and T-CAT** – Took a taxi to T-CAT after packing up. I didn’t want to push all my luggage in the sweltering heat, no matter how walkable the distance. Undoubtedly the most professional taxi I’ve ever seen. The car was pristine and clean. The driver wore a full suit and white gloves. It felt overblown for a ¥900 taxi ride. I had planned to use all my coins to pay for the taxi, but it was actually cashless. The limousine bus to the airport was fast, without any traffic. In optimal conditions, the limousine bus provides better value than Narita Express.
* **Narita and home** – Since my check-in desk hadn’t opened yet when I arrived at Narita, I explored the shopping and dining area. To avoid crowding restaurants, people would leave a cluster of large luggage outside of each restaurant entrance. It felt weird as someone used to the US airport warnings about “unattended luggage may be destroyed.” At check-in, I told them I had tax-free goods in my checked luggage as forums online say you’re supposed to do. The person helping me just gave me a confused look and told me to weigh my bag. Immigration and security were pretty empty and fast, and too soon my trip to Japan came to an end.

Whether or not you made it to the end, thank you for reading!