Trip Report: Tokyo, Fuji Rock, and Osaka | Jul 26 – Aug 7 2023

Tokyo, Fuji Rock, and Osaka | Jul 26 – Aug 7 2023

First timer couple, low planning, and a moderate-high budget

To plan for this trip I spent a lot of time on r/JapanTravel, atlas obscura, and YouTube, and collected a list of restaurants, bars, neighborhoods, and shopping that we might want to see. We also got some recommendations through friends. I organized the list according to proximity so that on any given morning, I can pull up the list in Wanderlog and we can say, “let’s do akihabara area today” and bam there’s everything I saved. We wanted to have space to spontaneously discover things on our own.

On my phone I set up widgets for Google Translate and “Currency converter with widget” by VIApps. I used these 2 apps all the time, plus Google Maps and WhatsApp. Before flying I used the app Timeshifter to adjust my sleep and reduce jet lag. It seemed to work! I didn’t use Timeshifter for the trip back and it took me longer to adjust.

**What I’m glad I packed:**

* Walking sandals
* ‘On’ brand shoes with sole inserts. These are seriously the most comfortable athletic shoes I’ve ever worn, and I put over 20,000 steps a day on them with zero foot pain. I bought them new for the trip, never wore them in advance or broke them in, and still no issues.
* Travel size hair straightening iron bc humidity was wild
* Advil
* Antiperspirant/deodorant from the US
* Power bank
* Cross body travelon purse for short trips that didn’t require a backpack
* Ubigi eSim – 10gb for 30 day plan was $15.30. I used promo code WELCOME10 for 10% off.
* Long sleeve button down white shirt made with breathable athletic fabric (thank you Athleta). This was good for layering in hot weather when I didn’t want to expose my upper body tattoos.
* Sunscreen stick

**What I packed and didn’t need:**

* Second pair of tennis shoes
* Shampoo, conditioner
* Most shirts and a pair of linen pants. I ended up washing and rewearing 2 Athleta dresses that were great for the heat.

**What I wished I packed:**

* Fanny pack (instead of using a backpack) for Universal Studios
* Extra room… once I bought a few things I was totally out of room in my luggage.
* A third or fourth athletic-fabric dress. I wanted to wear my Athleta dresses every day because they were loose, low-wrinkle, fast dry, and similar to the midi length dresses many locals were wearing in the heat. Hey did I mention Athleta yet? They’re not paying me to write this I promise, I just really love using their clothes for travel.

# Trip Report

Most of our experiences were spontaneous and unplanned, and I’m glad we did it that way. Here’s a summary of the main places we visited.

**Wed Jul 26, 2023 – I depart US**

**Thurs Jul 27 – Tokyo – Shibuya**

* I arrived at Haneda Airport around 4pm and bf arrived later that night at Narita (we came from different departure locations). He wishes he could have flown into Haneda.
* I took an airport limousine shuttle to Shibuya. There was a bus stand outside the airport and it was pretty intuitive to buy a ticket and understand what bus I needed. The shuttle had a drop off at my destination hotel. I was anxious about getting myself from the airport to the hotel because I am navigationally challenged, so I didn’t want to tackle the train system. Paying $8 for a shuttle was way better than $50-75 for an Uber.
* Checked in at [Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu](https://goo.gl/maps/ZEFGCkE5YoxfLuxT8), which is conveniently located near the Shibuya Scramble and Shibuya Station. If you want an easy central location in Shibuya then consider this hotel. It was a “good” stay experience, nothing noteworthy.
* Got onigiri and Pocari Sweat at nearby 7-Eleven Shibuya Dogenzaka 1-Chome Shop. No one else in the travel group liked Pocari Sweat but I did. I think it tasted like salty honeydew melon, and it was really refreshing in the heat.
* Ate a tasty and easy conveyor belt sushi meal at [Sushiro Shibuya Station Square](https://goo.gl/maps/1spDaRqyCDMVwfaU8)
* Shopped at [MEGA Don Quijote Shibuya Honten](https://goo.gl/maps/TgdikhR3gMi2tcwz6). I started my Kit Kat bar haul here.
* Drinks at [WOKINI ウォキニ](https://goo.gl/maps/D3Jf8FkLC4Bk7pxt7) \- LOVE THIS BAR. We were able to get 2 tables together that seated our 7-person group. This was the first bar stop of the trip and I was reminded right away that lots of places still allow smoking inside. This is something to think about if you are sensitive to smoke. I am a former smoker and I was cranky about my hair and clothes smelling like cigarettes.
* Drinks at [BAR NAGASAKI](https://goo.gl/maps/89hcuYehSjGdU2rR8).

**Fri Jul 28 – Tokyo – Harajuku, Tokyo Skytree, Golden Gai**

* [Shibuya Scramble Crossing](https://goo.gl/maps/dpPkkbWn7EjEBDnx6)
* Explored Harajuku and spend some time with the Gachapon machines at [C-pla Harajuku Takeshita](https://goo.gl/maps/y4MMgjGpNaWHQZXF9) Street
* Bought a silk embroidered jacket at [SUKAJYAN Dept.](https://goo.gl/maps/5sJvKxvnmcGmtFdG7) I spent a lot of time researching where to buy sukajan, and this was 1 of 4 places I’d narrowed down. Getting a quality sukajan was one of my predetermined trip goals. The history of this type of bomber jacket is interesting – I say it’s worth a Google.
* Tasty AC-cooled yakitori meal at [串助 原宿店](https://goo.gl/maps/ZEFGCkE5YoxfLuxT8)
* Wandered in and around [Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku](https://goo.gl/maps/JphZ5iz1EuJU2mfJ9)
* Visited the Tembo Deck at [Tokyo Skytree Tower](https://goo.gl/maps/zqLBLtr5CfUtKm36A) and shopped at adjacent [Tokyo Solamachi](https://goo.gl/maps/8YjQ8YpNzT8UaFv19) shopping mall. There was a shop selling shokuhin sampuru – fake plastic model food – and I regret not buying something there. I didn’t encounter any other shops with shokuhin sampuru the rest of the trip. I like [this video showing a fake food master craftsman at work](https://youtu.be/O9E77WZGCpQ). As for Skytree, it was a great view from 350m at dusk…. but there were so many people that it wasn’t very enjoyable. The glass floor was only a 2m x 3m square. We couldn’t even appreciate the downward view because everyone was packed shoulder to shoulder, and the entire crowd seemed to float as one entity slowly over the tiny glass floor while everyone craned their necks down to see just a bunch of feet.
* Went to Golden Gai and discovered the [Hanazono Shrine](https://goo.gl/maps/tr7D4yjoGP8HuJPq7)
* Drinks at [ROCKET](https://goo.gl/maps/m3SyyvkMnGpbSPyZ9) bar
* Drinks at [4C’s Bar Rosso](https://goo.gl/maps/NDh3GXy1S5ezYHqW6), a whiskey bar. GO HERE! Whiskey, cats, classical music, and an awesome proprietor
* Tried to get into [Deathmatch in Hell](https://goo.gl/maps/6GuXFDPGHwreM9sd9) and failed – it was jam packed with people
* Drink at [Unlimited](https://goo.gl/maps/PsmrcHnSXvBHWSnKA) \- don’t bother

**Sat Jul 29 – traveled to Fuji Rock music festival**, wandered the grounds, and listened to a few acts. I was impressed with this festival. There were a noticeable number of families with young children camping for the weekend. I love to see children getting exposed to live music and festivals. The grounds were clean and everyone was respectful to others. It was quite a drive from Tokyo to the Naeba Ski Resort where Fuji Rock is held. Contrary to its name it is nowhere near Mount Fuji.

**Sun Jul 30 – stayed at festival** until 7 pm, departing back to Tokyo. We checked back in at the Tokyu Shibuya Excel Hotel.

**Mon Jul 31 – Tokyo – Shibuya, Akihabara**

* Shopped at [Seibu Shibuya](https://goo.gl/maps/WDgxQstPWYoR7sEC7) department store. My bf found a fabulous KISS x Tailor Toyo sukajan jacket.
* Ate in the mall at [JIJIMI GO 渋谷西武](https://goo.gl/maps/yQTsxQutBDMV5tTE6). This was the first place I encountered table buttons to call over a server. I’d read that in Japan, there are restaurants where the server doesn’t stop by your table to check on you; you have to get their attention with the button.
* Went to Akihabara and got lost in the [Yodobashi Akiba](https://goo.gl/maps/v7cCmAuRswPUCuNQ7) electronics store.
* Ate ramen at [Kikanbo](https://goo.gl/maps/iejjodrGYbJF4hQYA). Listen… if you don’t do well in humid heat, do NOT go to a non-AC ramen joint in Japan, sit at the bar near the burners, and try to eat hot ramen. I did that and it sucked. I’ll note that there was a line of people waiting for seats even in the heat; if it wasn’t for the heat I would have enjoyed the meal more.
* Played arcade games at [GiGO Akihabara 1](https://goo.gl/maps/528MDfWsNeo26CC79). So there’s this anime character named Chainsaw Man and we were kind of obsessed with Chainsaw Man spottings. In this arcade there was a claw machine for a Chainsaw Man figurine. I think I lost like $8 worth of yen to that machine.
* Had a drink at [Maidreamin](https://goo.gl/maps/Cd42FFwzv52m23o49) maid cosplay cafe. It was a spontaneous decision, and it was a do-it-only-once experience for me. It was really quiet in there and awkward to be 1 of 3 occupied tables in the entire space.

**Tues Aug 1 – Tokyo – Shibuya**

* Meal at [Tiger Gyoza Kaikan Udagawacho](https://goo.gl/maps/1Ro8QzNWanPoqFoy6). We happened to walk by and were hungry, and the gyoza scratched the itch.
* Shopped at the [Shibuya Parco](https://goo.gl/maps/NieLhynYPayvKXRHA) shopping mall.
* Wandered down [Cat Street](https://goo.gl/maps/MSQMaXyEVk2Z2hd89).
* Explored the [Takeshita Street Square](https://goo.gl/maps/58LRyGUaaCoKcKbc7) in Harajuku (again).
* Walked through [Yoyogi Park](https://goo.gl/maps/U4hxizYVenQnmLr17) and saw [Meiji Shinto Shrine](https://goo.gl/maps/LhLKxmtyLvPBCGzz8).
* Went to [Cat Cafe MOCHA Harajuku](https://goo.gl/maps/KVaPwNwyceQr3p7k6) to get out of the heat. This was a spur of the moment stop. Some of the cats seemed overstimulated but there were places for them to escape. If you are thinking of going to a cat cafe, I suggest that you only go to a place where the cats are rescues/adoptable. I don’t think this particular cat cafe is a rescue/adoption model.
* Bought T-shirts at [UNIQLO Harajuku](https://goo.gl/maps/MQhEbJqQ6ZYi7h1h9). This is a great Japanese clothing store where you can get high quality wardrobe staples.
* Ate a delicious meal of keema curry at [Mokubaza](https://goo.gl/maps/rx485if5FrJNs6C57). I recommend going here! Keema curry is delicious!! Cash only.

**Wed Aug 2 – Travel from Tokyo to Osaka – Shinsaibashi**

* Here is a commentary about trains and train stations.
* Getting around Shibuya Station sucked with luggage. I don’t know if it’s bc of construction but there were a lot of stairwells without an elevator or escalator option. If we had looked at station maps and planned things in advance maybe we wouldn’t have had these issues, but neither of us wanted to plan 🙂
* We bought shinkansen tickets for Tokyo to Osaka the day of, and seat options and times were limited. We ended up wasting 2.5 hours at Shinagawa Station waiting for the bullet train. Also there were no benches ANYWHERE at the station to park ourselves. We sat in Tameals and sipped beers because that was the only place we saw with seating.
* Checked in at [W Osaka Hotel](https://goo.gl/maps/d15xEK9sT7aYpWWXA). This hotel is very instagrammy and stylish, and the staff were fantastic. Several nights there were show cars parked in the entryway (Rolls Royce, Lamborghinis, a Maybach). The location couldn’t have been better. Use your Marriott upgrades here!
* Ate a late dinner at [Mydo](https://goo.gl/maps/Z5yGQr3PtJffRbqF9) teppanyaki restaurant which is more fine dining. We highly recommend this restaurant.
* Discovered the [Mittera Kaikan](https://goo.gl/maps/A33sCJVWvvND46QL7) building that has like 60 bars in it! It seemed sketchy to me but I got over it quickly once we saw the bar doors. We stopped into one of the bars in the basement, [ムッシュ](https://goo.gl/maps/o6pMf1EByxiKSDwv9) (Bar Monsieur). Its proprietor is Mushu and you should go buy a beer from him.

**Thurs Aug 3 – Osaka – Universal Studios, Dotonbori / Shinsaibashi / Amerika-mura**

* I purchased USJ tickets and express passes way in advance. We arrived at Universal Studios around 12pm and our express pass times started at 3. It was a bad decision to wander a few hours in full midday sun. It was 95F air temp and 72F dew point and it was oppressive. I was probably on the cusp of heat exhaustion by the time we left.
* Walked to [Dotonbori](https://goo.gl/maps/D6YTujbzwRNskLdL9) entertainment district.
* Found the [Hozenji](https://goo.gl/maps/qkWiwmgvd9AM8jPk6) Buddhist temple.
* Lured in by their glowing neon DISCO light, we had a few drinks at [道頓堀FUNK](https://goo.gl/maps/KkGqsjtwcjEhwgjy9). There was a family of talented singers on the karaoke machine. We liked the vibe of this bar and the bartenders were super friendly and easy to talk to.
* Back at Mittera Hall we went to the basement and wanted to try a different bar. The mysterious door we selected belonged to [BAR 録de無死](https://goo.gl/maps/BybqyJ5FQ6fbYUDE6). I chatted with the bartender through Google Translate while we had a drink.
* Then we went to [Bar Monsieur](https://goo.gl/maps/o6pMf1EByxiKSDwv9) again and had one last beer of the night.

**Fri Aug 4 – Osaka – Dotonbori / Shinsaibashi / Amerika-mura**

* Ate lunch at [Cafe Garb](https://goo.gl/maps/j5nspCnEdns4zgtY6).
* Went to [7up Bar&Cafe](https://goo.gl/maps/ddJLwUuizfu3maXk8). It is a tourist / English speaking bar and was full of rowdy patrons singing karaoke and sending shots to each other.
* We wandered around America-mura for several hours. It is worth spending a day or evening here. I really liked [アメリカ村フリーマーケットB.B](https://goo.gl/maps/1d1rqLNY9BQMZi3t6) (American Village Flea Market BB).
* Stopped into [Bible Club Osaka](https://goo.gl/maps/6C28DuSBTH69gmrZ8), an American pre-prohibition themed basement bar. Its sister bar is in Portland OR. Nice cocktails. Definitely worth a visit!
* Late night sushi at [Yoake Sushi.](https://goo.gl/maps/iKwJypwU8JVQY8jK8) This place is open until 4 am and you order off tablets with an English option – quite the win for tired and/or tipsy tourists.

**Sat Aug 5 – Travel from Osaka to Tokyo – Ginza**

* Before leaving Osaka we went to [VINTAGE DIG STORE NATS](https://goo.gl/maps/7vS2p4LQt6wX9ALJ7), a shop we discovered the day before, because there was a vintage Liquid Blue wizard shirt that I saw the day before and needed to go back for. I want to go back to Japan JUST to vintage shop in Osaka. The selections were great.
* Checked in at [AC Hotel by Marriott Tokyo Ginza](https://goo.gl/maps/vjHTaD8X64747Co29).
* I was on a mission to find a gift for my mother. This shop, [Hobirahobireginzaten](https://goo.gl/maps/9kEPL286Et3sArD28), had sashiko patterns. I also wanted fabric but we didn’t have time to go to Nippori Fabric Town. So I stopped into a kimono store, [Erigiku](https://goo.gl/maps/tifaLKLX2XLwSZdH7), and tried to ask very politely through Google Translate if he sells fabric by the meter or half meter. He didn’t (and I’m sure that’s the case for all kimono tailors) but he DID have a bin of silk kimono fabric remnants for sale for very reasonable prices.
* Walked around the [Mitsukoshi Ginza](https://goo.gl/maps/VTKLctTRCo6DR8Ms9) department store.
* Ate at [Ootoya Ginza](https://goo.gl/maps/6KMpYqfbfCPJyf8s9), a teishoku restaurant tucked away. The order tablets had an English option.
* I had a stellar custom peach daiquiri at [He&Bar -Heiando Bar-](https://goo.gl/maps/5Jm6v4BX5G21NKNu6). We recommend.
* A few drinks at [Geronimo Shot Bar](https://goo.gl/maps/QV5xxcEcKKSkJ4vs9), a party bar with an American West theme. Great music, extensive shot list, and so many fascinations tacked to the walls and ceilings.
* Ended the night with a stop to [Don Quijote Roppongi](https://goo.gl/maps/YyJDw3bkfZSCr5Cq7) where we bought a ton more Kit Kat flavors, little gifts, and a new suitcase to put it all into.

**Sun Aug 6 – Tokyo – Ginza, Shimokitazawa**

* Went to [Itoya](https://goo.gl/maps/bNRFtCnxHr7gVxk86) (a destination store for stationery).
* Shoe shopping at [Onitsuka Tiger Ginza Store](https://goo.gl/maps/RHFxSvWcpeJbt2mg9). I already have 2 pairs and was about to buy a Nippon-made pair but when you get to the end of a trip you start to hold onto your money.
* Good ramen at [Kyūshū Jangara Ginza](https://www.google.com/maps?ftid=0x60188be654b485ed:0x2da99b2112856b84). They offer a plant-based ramen option. We recommend it.
* “Meh” experience at [Sony Showroom/Sony Store Ginza](https://goo.gl/maps/3zaWsSM745CJgEA5A).
* Arcade games at [Adores Shibuya](https://goo.gl/maps/zRJynDmcVBYH6hbCA).
* We headed toward Poor Cow (our ultimate destination) and ate at [焼売酒場なかめ 下北沢店](https://goo.gl/maps/GNyu7Bv5PVNLeZV7A), a shumai shop. We had delicious shrimp shumai and so this is another place I recommend.
* Got to [Poor Cow](https://goo.gl/maps/sTcSjRquQERrwgPy6) and spent a few hours there before calling an Uber back to the hotel. It’s a rocknroll bar run by Fifi from Teengenerate and Firestarter. I’d go back there in a heartbeat and I’d want to spend more time in the Shimokitazawa neighborhood.

On Mon Aug 7 we departed Narita. When I go back I want to spend more time in Osaka and go during the fall. Hopefully something on this list inspires others who are now planning a trip to Japan. Cheers