1st Timers Sep 2023. Osaka-Tokyo-Hakone-Kyoto Specific Questions + Recommendations + Itinerary Check

What’s up all. Next week my wife and I leave for our years-delayed honeymoon to Japan for just over 2 weeks, hitting Osaka, Tokyo, Hakone, and Kyoto in that order. Looking have a few specific questions, and would love a general itinerary check. Questions and recs consolidated first, with full itinerary after. Feel free to chime in anywhere tho, especially if something looks unfeasible.

We’re American, early 30s, and peg average on activity level / adventurousness, mid-high on food adventurousness, and high on budget. In trips elsewhere we’ve had fun just picking a neighborhood with maybe 1 or 2 destinations in mind and walking around. We have some of that, but would love a couple more destinations within the neighborhoods we have. No interest in theme parks or anime outside of Ghibli. If I mention a specific restaurant, I have a reservation.

**Questions:**

1. Days 4, 12, and 13 – do I need to book Osaka–>Tokyo, Hakone Loop, or Hakone–>Kyoto(or Himeji) transit ahead of time? If so, how far ahead?
2. Day 2 (Osaka) – is Minoo Park worth doing?
3. Day 4 (Osaka) – is Osaka castle feasible/worth doing in 2-3 hours in the morning before traveling to Tokyo?
4. Day 9 (Tokyo) – anyone seen live music in Shimokitazawa? Good music? How was the venue/crowd? etc
5. Day 13 (Himeji) – Is Himeji castle worth an extra 3 cumulative hours on trains (going Hakone –> Himeji –> Kyoto rather than Hakone –> Kyoto)
6. Day 13+14 (Kyoto) – I think we have time for 2 of Kiyomizu-dera, Ginkaku-ji, and Kinkaku-ji. We’re for sure doing Fushimi Inari. Which should we skip?
7. Day 15 (Kyoto) – Is Arashiyama worth the 2 hours of travel, knowing we’re not hitting the bamboo grove? Especially if we haven’t done all of the closer shrines?
8. Day 16 (Travel) – How early to arrive at ITM for a flight to HND (first leg of international trip home)

**Recommendations** looking for stuff to do, restaurants, or bars in any of the following neighborhoods / areas: Toranomon Hills, Nakano, Koenji, Daikanyama, Nakameguro, Shimokitazawa, Kichijoji, Roppongi, Gora (Hakone)

**Itinerary:**

Day 0-1 (Travel):

* Fly ORD–>YYZ–>HND–>ITM. Not ideal but saved us thousands of dollars.
* Land at ITM \~6:10pm local time. Hope our checked bags are there. Airport Limousine Bus to [Ritz Carlton Osaka](https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Ritz-Carlton,+Osaka,+2+Chome-5+Umeda,+Kita+Ward,+Osaka,+Japan/@35.6638451,139.7080202,14.81z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x6000e68cabc981cf:0xb468d22fe1b5bc38!8m2!3d34.69834!4d135.4925207?entry=ttu). Check in, find walkable food without a reservation, maybe walk to [Umeda Sky Building](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Umeda+Sky+Building/@34.7052872,135.4870778,17z/data=!3m2!4b1!5s0x6000e688863f7021:0x4ceb5b0522a7c0c0!4m6!3m5!1s0x6000e6889074276f:0x57c2e32670decafd!8m2!3d34.7052872!4d135.4896527!16zL20vMDNfZjE3?entry=ttu) if up for it, otherwise pass out

Day 2 (Saturday – Explore Osaka):

* [Minoo Park](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Minoh+Park/@34.8470706,135.4697715,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x6000f98dcd18275b:0x11b23b2040fdbcea!8m2!3d34.8470706!4d135.4723464!16s%2Fm%2F04ljxfy?entry=ttu), walk around see waterfall etc **(opinion: is this worth doing? I picked b/c it’s near Cup Noodles Museum, but have seen mixed reviews)**
* [Cup Noodles Museum](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Cup+Noodles+Museum+Osaka+Ikeda/@34.8181084,135.4241267,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x6000f0c60f096aa7:0xe581ef01f49dbaa!8m2!3d34.8181084!4d135.4267016!16zL20vMDc4bTM5?entry=ttu), eat there for lunch
* Maybe pit stop at hotel, then down to Minami to check out Dotonburi, Amerika-mura, do some thrifting/people watching/wandering before dinner at [Houzenji Sanpei](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Houzenji+Sanpei/@34.6682333,135.5001521,17z/data=!3m2!4b1!5s0x6000e71495cbee17:0xb5cfbd9102fce1c1!4m6!3m5!1s0x6000e71495b45fc5:0x29fe312c1c6192f!8m2!3d34.6682333!4d135.502727!16s%2Fg%2F1tpn2g1h?entry=ttu) in Dotonburi.
* Drink at bars until going back to hotel

Day 3 (Sunday – Nara Day Trip):

* Up early, train to [Nara](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nara+Park/@34.685047,135.8404371,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x60013996bd8c6061:0xf96cacf357447456!8m2!3d34.685047!4d135.843012!16s%2Fm%2F02pwmjl?entry=ttu), walk Kofukuji Temple –> Isuien Garden –> Todai-Ji Temple –> Nara Park (maybe –> Kasuga Taisha). Find lunch in Nara
* Maybe but probably not: Horyu-ji
* Train back to Osaka, see what we want to do between more Minami OR Museum of Housing and Living (closes 5pm)
* Dinner at [Hanagatami Tempura](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Hanagatami/@34.6979546,135.4871499,17z/data=!3m1!5s0x6000e68cb1d4815b:0x3257ceb2c99c4c3!4m10!1m2!2m1!1shanagatami+tempura!3m6!1s0x6000e68cabc981cf:0x1978152b98efbb78!8m2!3d34.6979546!4d135.4919135!15sChJoYW5hZ2F0YW1pIHRlbXB1cmFaFCISaGFuYWdhdGFtaSB0ZW1wdXJhkgETamFwYW5lc2VfcmVzdGF1cmFudJoBJENoZERTVWhOTUc5blMwVkpRMEZuU1VSTlh6Vkhjek5CUlJBQuABAA!16s%2Fg%2F1tfk49t7?entry=ttu)

Day 4 (Monday – Travel):

* Anything we didn’t do yet **(opinion: is Osaka Castle worth doing and feasible in \~2 hours?)**
* Lunch near Shin-Osaka, then train Osaka–>Tokyo **(not booked yet – do I need to?)**
* Check into [Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Andaz+Tokyo+Toranomon+Hills,+Hills+Mori+Tower+1+Chome-23+Toranomon,+Minato+City,+Tokyo,+Japan/@34.6979546,135.4871499,17z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x60188b93a24ee015:0xec91dce36980e818!8m2!3d35.6668126!4d139.7493946?entry=ttu) and do stuff nearby/in hotel (Toranomon Yokocho, Atago Jinja shrine, Tokyo Tower, Zozo-ji Temple). Get dinner nearby the hotel **(Toranomon Hills bars, attractions, restaurant recs wanted)**

Day 5 (Tuesday – Shinjuku, Nakano, Koenji):

* (Either start in Shinjuku, or) go to Koenji first to shop/wander; then Nakano (hit Nakano Broadway, Deirichiko ice cream), then back to Shinjuku
* Shinjuku: Metropolitan Building observation room, Shinjuku Gyoen, shopping, batting cages, bars. **(recs: anything we should be sure to hit in any of the 3 neighborhoods?)**
* Dinner and drinking in Omoide Yokocho and/or Golden Gai

Day 6 (Wednesday – Ueno Park & Surrounding + Ginza):

* Morning to mid-afternoon: Ueno Park and surrounding things (Former Iwasaki House Garden, Tokyo National Museum, Ameyoko Shopping District including for lunch)
* Mid-afternoon through evening: Shopping / exploring in Ginza
* Dinner at [Ginza Kojyu](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Ginza+Kojyu,+%E9%8A%80%E5%BA%A7%E3%82%AB%E3%83%AA%E3%82%AA%E3%82%AB%E3%83%93%E3%83%AB+4F+5+Chome-4+Ginza,+Chuo+City,+Tokyo,+Japan/@35.6668126,139.7468197,17z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x60188be8dbc96055:0x81189b734d55bfad!8m2!3d35.6714446!4d139.7630117?entry=ttu)

Day 7 (Thursday – Harajuku, Yoyogi Park, Swallows Game):

* Takeshita Street, Daiso Harajuku, find a Purikura place, Cat Street, other shopping
* Chill in Yoyogi Park and Meiji Jingu Shrine
* Swallows Game at [Meiji Jingu Stadium](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Meiji+Jingu+Stadium/@35.6745308,139.7145,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x60188c9a1923f3f5:0xf8fe5cab0f97a8d8!8m2!3d35.6745308!4d139.7170749!16zL20vMDY1ODRz?entry=ttu) (tickets purchased)

Day 8 (Friday – Kichijoji + Ghibli Museum)

* Ship luggage from Andaz Tokyo to Grand Hyatt, check out of Andaz
* Explore Kichijoji (Inokashira Park, Musashino Hachimangu, shopping), Ghibli Museum entrance at 4pm. **(Kichijoji recs?)**
* Train back, check into [Grand Hyatt](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Grand+Hyatt+Tokyo/@35.6595784,139.7260748,17z/data=!3m2!4b1!5s0x60188b770a53332b:0x4701dce8378611ab!4m10!3m9!1s0x601889bbd9884b49:0x9528653e10d064b1!5m3!1s2023-08-31!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d35.6595784!4d139.7286497!16s%2Fg%2F121mkp2t?entry=ttu) in Roppongi, find dinner nearby
* Maybe Roppongi jazz clubs / nightlife

Day 9 (Saturday – Daikanyama + Nakameguro + Shimokitazawa)

* [Daikanyama](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Daikanyamacho,+Shibuya+City,+Tokyo,+Japan/@35.6595784,139.7260748,17z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x60188b44e6cacbeb:0x566d8bd2a5a20a2?entry=ttu): Shopping, Kyu Asakura House **(looking for stuff to do + lunch recs)**
* [Nakameguro](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nakameguro,+Meguro+City,+Tokyo+153-0061,+Japan/@35.6506431,139.7016234,17z/data=!4m6!3m5!1s0x60188b382f36ab01:0xaa463fc3c5ac293a!8m2!3d35.6387161!4d139.7026251!16s%2Fg%2F11bc67bfhq?entry=ttu): Museum of Contemporary Sculpture, maybe Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum **(looking for stuff to do recs)**
* [Shimokitzawa](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Shimokitazawa,+Kitazawa,+Setagaya+City,+Tokyo+155-0031,+Japan/@35.6655759,139.6661191,16z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x601821ff675efbc3:0x332e8e1d2d9ec482!8m2!3d35.665786!4d139.6698627!16s%2Fm%2F0276wh8?entry=ttu): Former Marquis Maeda Mansion (if still open), Japanese Folks Crafts Museum (if still open), Dinner **(looking for dinner recs)** Live music: [Basement](https://www.google.com/maps/place/BASEMENT+BAR,+%E4%BB%A3%E6%B2%A2%E3%82%AB%E3%83%A9%E3%83%90%E3%83%83%E3%82%B7%E3%83%A5+5+Chome-18+Daizawa,+Setagaya+City,+Tokyo,+Japan/@35.6655759,139.6661191,16z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x6018f368ecfe0979:0xa0031df9c79be550!8m2!3d35.6568425!4d139.6675503?entry=ttu), [Live Haus](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Japan,+Tokyo,+Setagaya+City,+Kitazawa,+2+Chome%E2%88%9214,+%EF%BC%AA%EF%BC%AF%EF%BC%B7%EF%BC%93%E3%83%93%E3%83%AB+LIVE+HAUS/@35.6568425,139.6649754,17z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x6018f3d392db6fbf:0xbe2f14c0daeccde!8m2!3d35.6595491!4d139.6675264?entry=ttu), [下北沢 近道](https://www.google.com/maps/place/%E4%B8%8B%E5%8C%97%E6%B2%A2+%E8%BF%91%E9%81%93/@35.664608,139.6644179,17z/data=!3m2!4b1!5s0x6018f314cac6bc41:0x8480561f601e2f9a!4m6!3m5!1s0x6018f3e7f4da8b43:0x1ba69672bf39a769!8m2!3d35.664608!4d139.6669928!16s%2Fg%2F11sjfkd11w?entry=ttu) **(opinion: anyone been? One guy was promoting them here but I think he’s affiliated)**

Day 10 (Sunday – Maybe Ryoguku + Asakusa + Sumo Wrestling)

* Maybe Ryoguku: see sumo-wrestlers practice / daily life
* Maybe Tokyo Skytree
* Asakusa (Senso-Ji, Nakamise-dori Street, maybe Kappabashi Dougu Street)
* Sumo Wrestling
* Nicer “farewell Tokyo” dinner near hotel in Roppongi – still need to book **(recs?)**

Day 11 (Monday – Tokyo –> Hakone)

* Forward big bags to Kyoto, check out of hotel
* Bum around Shinjuku until 3pm Romancecar (observation car booked) to Hakone-Yumoto station, bus from station to [Kinnotake Tōnosawa](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Kinnotake+T%C5%8Dnosawa/@35.2337322,139.0862668,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m10!3m9!1s0x6019a3aedbad6e9b:0xa74cb7cce68d359b!5m3!1s2023-08-31!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d35.2337322!4d139.0888417!16s%2Fg%2F1ptw641qj?entry=ttu) ryokan and check in
* Relax in ryokan until dinner

Day 12 (Tuesday – Hakone Loop & Museums)

* Bus to Hakone-Yumoto station, Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone Open Air Museum, walk/bus to Okada Museum of Art, Cablecar to Sounzan Station, Hakone Ropeway to Togendai Station, Hakone Sightseeing Boat to Hakone-machi, walk to Moto-Hakone then along Old Tokaido Highway to Amasake Tea House, Bus back to Ryokan. **(do I need to book any of this ahead of time? recommendations for lunch?)**
* Chill in ryokan

Day 13 (Wednesday – Hakone –> Kyoto (maybe Himeji castle))

**1 OF 2 OPTIONS, OPINIONS WELCOME:**

1. Go slow, final soak, check out of ryokan, bus to Odawara, lunch in Odawara, train to Kyoto, check into [Park Hyatt](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Park+Hyatt+Kyoto,+Park+Hyatt+Kyoto,+Masuyacho,+Higashiyama+Ward,+Kyoto,+Japan/@35.2337322,139.0862668,17z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x60010947e23f5a63:0xdecf1b14734f45cb!8m2!3d34.9989301!4d135.7808902?entry=ttu) in Higashiyama, walk to nearby shrines (Kiyomizu-dera, Kodai-ji, or Choraku-ji). OR
2. Wake up and check out early, bus to Odawara, train to Himeji, lunch in Himeji, see the castle, train back to Kyoto, check into hotel in the evening

**Himeji castle seems unmissable, and this is the only day it makes sense to try to fit it in… But it’s about an extra 3 hours on a train than if we skip it and go from Hakone right to Kyoto. Worth it?**

Day 14 (Thursday – Fushimi Inari + other temples)

* Fushimi Inari Hidden Hiking Tour (booked on rec from this sub)
* EITHER: Higashiyama shrines (Kiyomizu-dera, kodai-ji, choraku-ji; OR Kinkaku-ji; OR Ginkaku-ji, nanzen-ji, philosopher’s path, zenrin-ji) **(Opinions: which?)**

Day 15 (Friday – Arashiyama probably)

* Train to Arashiyama to see Monkey Park + Temples (Tenryu-ji, Daikaku-ji, Jojakko-ji, Gio-ji). Heard bamboo forest is missable, plus we were just in Hawaii where we did lots of bamboo hikes. **(Opinions: is Arashiyama worth the 2 hours of travel, especially considering we won’t have done all of the aforementioned shrines?)**
* Train back for [Gion Matoyashi](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Gion+Matayoshi/@34.9989301,135.7783153,17z/data=!4m6!3m5!1s0x600108c38b666b17:0x39c1df98c5af7b8e!8m2!3d35.003366!4d135.774567!16s%2Fg%2F1v4psx8z?entry=ttu) reservation as farewell to Japan

Day 16 (Saturday – travel home)

* Check out, get from Kyoto hotel to ITM in Osaka via train or limousine bus. Aim to arrive \~12pm for 2pm international flight **(ask: too late?)**
* Fly ITM–>HND–>YYZ–>ORD

1 comment
  1. > do I need to book Osaka–>Tokyo, Hakone Loop, or Hakone–>Kyoto(or Himeji) transit ahead of time? If so, how far ahead?

    No “need” to book any of these (unless you have 160cm+ luggage on the Shinkansen). I would try to book Osaka-Tokyo so that you can be guaranteed seats on the Mt Fuji side.

    > Day 2 (Osaka) – is Minoo Park worth doing?

    If you have something better to do I would cut it, IMO it is only worth a special mention during foliage season which is not relevant in your case.

    > Day 4 (Osaka) – is Osaka castle feasible/worth doing in 2-3 hours in the morning before traveling to Tokyo?

    Not worth it if you’re also seeing Himeji Castle.

    > Day 13 (Himeji) – Is Himeji castle worth an extra 3 cumulative hours on trains (going Hakone –> Himeji –> Kyoto rather than Hakone –> Kyoto)

    If you are interested in seeing a Japanese castle, Himeji is the one you should see. That said since you are staying at the Park Hyatt Kyoto you’re probably better served checking in earlier and taking advantage of the location.

    > Day 13+14 (Kyoto) – I think we have time for 2 of Kiyomizu-dera, Ginkaku-ji, and Kinkaku-ji. We’re for sure doing Fushimi Inari. Which should we skip?

    Opinions will for sure differ, mine is Kinkakuji – there’s a reason why all the photos all have one and only one view.

    > Day 15 (Kyoto) – Is Arashiyama worth the 2 hours of travel, knowing we’re not hitting the bamboo grove? Especially if we haven’t done all of the closer shrines?

    The bamboo grove is a 10-minute destination. Look up all the shrines/temples in question, and decide which ones look more visually or culturally appealing to you.

    > Day 16 (Travel) – How early to arrive at ITM for a flight to HND (first leg of international trip home)

    Two hours in advance is sufficient.

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