21 days in Japan – Itinerary check for spring / sakura season

# General info

Hello! My friend and I will be visiting Japan for the first time, 21 days (20 nights) from March 19 to April 8. I am a total overplanner, but I also know things will not go exactly as planned and there will need to be a lot of flexibility. I’m hoping we can hit all the itinerary events that aren’t marked with ‘?’, but again I know at least some will get missed or shuffled around. We’ve made a few passes at itinerary revisions and trying to group / order activities in a way that makes sense (although some of the Tokyo days are fairly open-ended so far, just grouped by areas), to the point where we feel ready to get some feedback and recommendations.

For context, we are both relatively fit males in mid-20s with common interests in anime culture, sakura viewing, sake & bars, skiing, rollercoasters, and exploring the traditional & natural aspects of Japan.

# Specific questions

1. Are any days unreasonably planned or too rushed (keeping in mind anything with ‘?’ is optional depending on time / desire / etc.)?
1. Is anything needed for Visit Japan Web (https://vjw-lp.digital.go.jp/en/) now that vaccine restrictions are lifted?
1. What are allowable luggage sizes for transportation convenience, or recommended to fit into most coin lockers at stations?
1. Does anyone have experiences with a Goodwill tour guide for Himeji Castle?
1. Shinkansen reservations – how important are they during our trip dates?
– Is SmartEx the best way to reserve tickets?
– If no reservation, how / where do you purchase shinkansen ticket?
– How do you scan the shinkansen ticket, whether physical or digital? (I believe the IC card still requires a tap at station gates before getting on / after getting off – and the shinkansen ticket is something additional.)

# Notes & logistics

**Internet access**

– Ubigi eSIM (https://cellulardata.ubigi.com/rates-and-coverage/japan-data-plans/#)
– Buy, activate, and install prior to flight.
– Enable eSIM once plane lands and instantly connected.
– My S21 is unlocked and supports DSDS to run parallel to regular SIM. My carrier plan will let me text internationally, but calls would have to be through an app.

**Transportation**

– Get a Welcome Suica IC card from Suica machine/kiosk in airport after landing in Tokyo.
– Needs cash to add funds.

– JR Pass not worth after price increase
– JR Kansai Hiroshima Area Pass almost for sure worth it
– JR Tokyo Wide Pass probably not worth it

**Events / registration / reservations**

– Sumo tickets
– Available for pre-order starting mid-January from BuySumoTickets, much easier than through Japanese site for a small fee? https://www.buysumotickets.com/
– Hoping to buy Arena C tickets
– Saturday will be harder to get tickets for, ideally we can get with pre-order but otherwise need to fall back to Friday and shift plans
– Zao Onsen Ski gear rental (ski tickets can be purchased there?)
– ? Airport Liner reservation to Yamagata Airport (~1hr, 3000 yen, reservation required via https://transport.yamagata-airport.co.jp/en/tourismliner_zao/, Japanese ph# required)
– Likely skip due to reservation / Japanese ph# requirements, even though it would save about an hour
– ? Himeji Castle – Goodwill tour guide
– ? Sagano Scenic Railway reservations
– ? Chidorigafuchi Moat (should be able to reserve the morning of, if sakura timing is good?)
– Highway Bus tickets for Tokyo -> Kawaguchiko and Kawaguchiko -> Tokyo
– ? Cup Noodles Museum (Kawasaki) reservations to make your own noodles (up to 3 months in advance at https://www.cupnoodles-museum.jp/en/osaka_ikeda/attractions/cr-factory/)
– ? TeamLabs Borderless once reopened at Azabudai Hills in Jan 2024
– Anime collaboration cafes (many pop-up temporarily, see https://collabo-cafe.com/)

**Lodging**

– 1 night Tokyo: anywhere near shinkansen line
– 2 nights Zao Onsen: anywhere
– 3 nights Osaka: near JR Namba Station
– 1 night Hiroshima: anywhere
– 4 nights Kyoto: near Gion / Higashiyama?
– 3 nights Tokyo: near Asakusa / Ueno / Akihabara
– 1 night Fujiyoshida: near Fuji-Q Highland
– 5 nights Tokyo: near Shinjuku / Harajuku / Shibuya / Tokyo Station?

# Itinerary

**Tuesday, March 19th**

– Land in Tokyo ~5pm @ Narita International Airport
– Customs
– Collect checked bags
– Get Suica (or other IC) card
– Food
– Transportation to hotel
– Check in to hotel
– Chill / eat

**Wednesday, March 20th**

– Early shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Utsunomiya Station (~1hr)
– Take Haga Takanezawa Kogyo Danchi (Light Line) bus from Utsunomiya Eki Higashiguchi
Station to Green Stadium (30m) OR take JR Bus bound for Suito West Line/Dojojuku from Utsunomiya Eki Higashiguchi
Station to JA Utsunomiya Kiyoharashisho-mae bus stop (30m)
– Disc golf course at Kiyoharakogyodanchi 3 Go Ryokuchi Park
– Note: if we are totally exhausted and jetlagged, this whole activity can be skipped and we take shinkansen from Tokyo Station straight to Yamagata/Sendai -> Yamadera, but we’d love to be able to play a round of disc golf in Japan!
– Take Haga Takanezawa Kogyo Danchi (Light Line) bus from Green Stadium to Utsunomiya
Eki Higashiguchi Station (30m) OR take JR Bus from JA Utsunomiya Kiyoharashisho-mae bus stop to Utsunomiya Eki
Higashiguchi Station (30m)
– Transit to Yamadera Station (via shinkansen to either Yamagata Station or Sendai Station, then additional leg) (~2h30m)
– Explore Yamadera Temple (Rissyakuji)
– Transit to Yamagata Station (20m train, 40m hourly bus)
– Highway Bus to Zao Onsen area (~35m, hourly bus)
– Check in to ryokan

**Thursday, March 21st**

– Ski day at Zao Onsen Ski Resort
– Food / drinks nearby
– Go back to ryokan and relax in onsen

**Friday, March 22nd**

– Check out of ryokan
– Take Highway Bus to Yamagata Station (~40m, hourly)
– Take Airport Limousine Bus to Yamagata Airport (~40m, 1300 yen, departs 1h15m before
outgoing flights, roughly every 60-90 minutes)
OR
– Take Airport Liner to Yamagata Airport (~1hr, 3000 yen, reservation required via
https://transport.yamagata-airport.co.jp/en/tourismliner_zao/, Japanese ph# required)
– Flight to Kansai Airport (Osaka) (~1h30m)
– Take train to Osaka Namba Station (~1hr)
– Check in to hotel
– Evening: Dotonbori
– ? Hozenji Temple
– ? Karaoke

**Saturday, March 23rd**

– Morning: Kuromon Ichiba Market (“Kyoto’s Kitchen”, arrive around 9-10am?)
– Afternoon (~2-6pm): Sumo @ Edion Arena Osaka (Sumo 3/10 – 3/24 – get Arena C tickets via buysumotickets.com? ¥4000 – 6800)
– ? Namba Yasaka Jinja
– ? Namba Parks

**Sunday, March 24th**

– ? Osaka Castle
– Den-Den Town (arrive around 10am?)
– ? Maid cafe
– ? Arcade / pachinko
– Evening: Shinsekai
* Food: Kushikatsu (deep fried skewer), fugu (pufferfish)?

**Monday, March 25th**

– Pack day bags and forward luggage to Kyoto hotel
– Check out of hotel
– Very early (~7:30am): Shinkansen to Himeji Station via Shin-Osaka Station (~45m)
– Walk (20-30m) to Himeji Castle
– Tour Himeji Castle / gardens (castle opens at 9am) (maybe tour with a “Goodwill guide” from Japanese National Tourism Organization?)
– Lunch
– Walk (30m) or bus (15m) back to Himeji Station
– Shinkansen to Hiroshima Station (~1hr)
– Peace Memorial Park + Atomic Bomb Dome + Peace Memorial Museum + etc.
* Dinner: Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki @ Okonomimura downtown
– Check in to hotel

**Tuesday, March 26th**

– Check out of hotel (~8:30am)
– Transit to Iwakuni (Miyajimaguchi Station) (~30m)
– Ferry to Miyajima island (10min, ~¥200, runs every 15 minutes, ~9am-5pm JR West or
~8am-7pm Matsudai)
– Itsukushima Shrine / torii gate high tide at 10:20am
– Take ropeway partway up Mt. Misen (¥2000 round trip, last trip up at 4pm, last trip down
at 4:30pm) and finish hike to summit
* Food: Momiji manju, oysters, taiyaki
– ? Shopping street(s)
– ? Public onsen
– ? Itsukushima Shrine / torii gate low tide at 4:30pm
– Ferry back to Iwakuni (Miyajimaguchi Station) (10min, ~¥200, runs every 15 minutes,
~9am-5pm JR West or ~8am-7pm Matsudai)
– Transit to Kyoto Station via Hiroshima Station (~2h15m)
– Check in to hotel

**Wednesday, March 27th**

– Early morning: Fushimi-Inari-Taisha (full or partial ascension? “Hidden” bamboo grove
nearby?)
– ? Gokonomiya Shrine
– ? Fushimi Jikkokubune sakura along canal. Boat tour (30-60min, ~¥1000) if good timing
for sakura petals falling? Or just walk along.
– Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum (¥600 entry, includes free samples)
– Fushimi Sake Village via Fushimi Otesuji Shopping Street (try kissui? Sake testing set with
18 varieties)
– ? Kyoto Gyoen National Garden
– ? Nijo Castle (evening illuminations)
– ? Onsen

**Thursday, March 28th**

– Early morning: Arayashima Bamboo Forest (~8am?)
– Tenryuji temple (opens at 8:30am, ¥500)
– Togetsukyo Bridge
– Iwatayama Monkey Park
– ? Sagano Scenic Railway (need to buy tickets in advance) (& Hozugawa Riverboat back?)
– “Kimono forest” near station (cool in evening when illuminated)
– ? Nijo Castle (evening illuminations)
– ? Kyoto Gyoen National Garden
– ? Onsen

**Friday, March 29th**

– Early morning: Kiyomizu-dera temple
– Sannenzaka + Ninenzaka traditional shopping streets (most shops open from around
10am-5pm)
– ? Kodai-ji temple
– Maruyama Park (Weeping Cherry Tree Illumination if ever around in evening) sounds cool
– ? Yasaka-jinji shrine
– Explore Gion (Shirakawa Lane will be quieter than busy Hanamikoji Street)
– Evening: Pontocho Alley
* Yakitori (grilled chicken skewers)

**Saturday, March 30th**

– Pack day bags and forward luggage to Tokyo hotel
– Check out of hotel
– Nishiki Market (arrive ~9:15am)
– Transit to Kintetsu-Nara station via Kintetsu Line (~35min)
– Nakatanidou (mochi pounding show every ~30min)
– Visit Kofuku-ji temple
– Visit Isui-en Garden
– Visit Todai-ji temple
– Visit Nara Park (buy crackers to feed deer)
– ? Kasuga Taisha (highly unlikely enough time, also likely to be “templed out”)
– Transit from Kinetsu-Nara station to Kyoto Station (~35min)
– Shinkansen from Kyoto Station to Tokyo (2h15m)
– Check in to hotel

**Sunday, March 31st**

– ? Chidorigafuchi Moat (boat rental if sakura works out, can flex to an earlier day depending
on bloom timings, ideally petals starting to fall)
– Explore Akihabara (a lot of places don’t really “open” until ~1pm?)
– Game arcades (HEY Hirose Entertainment Yard? Taito Station? Sega?)
– ? Pachinko parlor
– ? Maid cafe

**Monday, April 1st**

– Early morning: Sensoji temple in Asakusa
– Nakamise-dori shopping street (gets extremely packed, try to go right when most shops
open around 9am)
* Food: Ningyo-yaki
– Kaminarimon Gate
– ? Asahi Beer Tower (rooftop bar)
– ? Tokyo Skytree (depends on clear weather)
– ? Hoppy Street (izayaka alley)
– ? Sumida Park (sakura and good view of Tokyo Skytree and Asahi Beer Tower, cool lighting
of trees/Skytree/bridge in evening)
– ? Ueno Park (depends on sakura timing)
– ? Odaiba in afternoon/evening? Maybe take water bus there?

**Tuesday, April 2nd**

– Check out of hotel
– Transit to Kawaguchiko Station from Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal via Highway bus
(~¥2200, https://www.highwaybus.com/gp/inbound/index?lang=EN or
https://willerexpress.com/en/bus_search/tokyo/all/yamanashi/fujikawaguchiko, buy at
least a week in advance to be safe?)
– Check in to hotel (maybe Highland Resort Hotel & Spa? Early Fuji-Q access, discount, and
includes onsen)
– Narusawa Ice Cave / Fugaku Wind Cave (via Omni Bus Green or Blue line)
– ? Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba (rent traditional outfits?) (via Omni Bus Green line?)
– ? Oishi Park (via Omni Bus Green line?)
– ? Oshino Hakkai & Oshino Shinobi No Sato Ninja Village (via Omni Bus Green line or World
Heritage Loop line?
– Onsen

**Wednesday, April 3rd**

– Check out of hotel (leave bags to pick up after Fuji-Q?) (if Highland Resort, visit front desk
~8:30am to take advantage of early Fuji-Q entry?)
– Early morning: Get to Fuji-Q Highland for entry by 9am and immediately buy fast passes
(or do 1 major ride first if not a crazy busy day)
– Spend day at Fuji-Q Highland
– ? Pick up bags from hotel
– Transit to Tokyo from Kawaguchiko Station via Highway bus
– Check in to hotel

**Thursday, April 4th**

– Shibuya Scramble Crossing (find good viewpoint, glass Sky Bridge? Find Hachiko statue)
– Explore Shibuya
– Miyashita Park (shopping center + rooftop bouldering wall)
– ? Cat Street
– Takeshita Street (most shops don’t open until 11am)
– Explore Harajuku
– ? Yoyogi Park

**Friday, April 5th**

– ? Namjatown & Pokemon Center
– ? Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
– ? Kurand Sake Market
– ? Taito Station arcade
– Explore Shinjuku
– Evening: Omoide Yokocho (“Piss Alley”)
* Yakitori, unagi @ Kabuto
– Late evening: Golden Gai (after ~9pm)

**Saturday, April 6th**

– ? Sleep in late
– ? Day trip to Noda for Kikkoman Soy Sauce Museum & Shimizu Park Field Athletics
adventure park course
– ? Return to anything we didn’t have time for or found interesting

**Sunday, April 7th**

– Transit to Kawasaki
– Kanamara Matsuri festival
– ? Cup Ramen Museum (need reservations to make your own noodles, up to 3 months in advance at https://www.cupnoodles-museum.jp/en/osaka_ikeda/attractions/cr-factory/)
– ? Explore Kawasaki
– Transit to Tokyo
– ? Flex time

**Monday, April 8th**

– Check out of hotel
– Store luggage in station lockers
– ? TeamLabs Borderless
– ? Red Tokyo Tower esports / VR arcade by the base of Tokyo Tower
– ? Flex time
– Transit to Narita International Airport (~1h from Tokyo Station)
– Return flight from Narita International Airport at 5:25pm