Before delving into the details of my trip, I’d like to share some background about my travel preferences:
**Anxiety & Planning**: After browsing numerous itineraries here, I realized that I needed something more tailored to my needs. Travel tends to heighten my anxiety, so I prioritized relaxation and self-care. This itinerary was constructed to indulge in Japan’s beauty, with ample breaks and moments of solitude. This paid dividends, as many people on the tours mentioned being completely exhausted running all over the city. We did not want to come home needing a vacay from vacay.
**Accommodations**: I acknowledge that the accommodations I’ve chosen might not be accessible to everyone. However, booking in advance enabled huge savings and without these savings, I would not have chosen these accommodations. A six-months-in-advance reservation at **Hoshinoya Tokyo** afforded me a 50% discount. For **Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto**, I used points + cash which cut the nightly price in half. Because I have Marriott Gold status (through Amex), we got a room upgrade (I had booked the cheapest room).-
**Travel Preparations:** My planning started six months prior to the trip. I like planning and getting good deals!!! **Jet lag was also a primary concern.** My jet lag kryptonite included the *Time Shifter app, Luminette light therapy glasses, and a 16-hour fast*. This fast was timed to end on the plane, allowing our first meal to align with Tokyo time, aiding in our adjustment. I HAD NO JET LAG!!!!!! (This is a miracle. I always have it and always get sick. I had neither on this trip).
**Airlines:** We flew via **Japan Air**, initially booking Premium Economy (ensure it’s directly operated by Japan Air). However, a few days before the flight I was able to bid to upgrade to Business Class which I did (I booked $15 above the lowest possible bid, $605 for each ticket). We won the upgrade. Our tickets, including the bid, were about $1,700 each. I booked six months in advance for $1,100. They went up about $700 by the time we approached the trip. I recommend bidding for an upgrade rather than buying outright. Buying Business Class outright was $20k (one way!!) before the trip so the bidding process was a HUGE discount.-
**Scheduling Philosophy:** My daily schedule contained ONE planned activity per day. (YES I know this is sacrilege for this subreddit!) My vision was to truly experience Japan on my terms—relishing its cuisine, partaking in leisurely strolls, and savoring unhurried moments in cafes. I understand the appeal of jam-packed schedules, but that’s not me. I noticed many tourists cramming multiple activities into their day, often to the point of exhaustion. In contrast, my partner and I felt refreshed and invigorated. We know there was more to see but we hope to be able to come back one day and feel as though we saw plenty anyway.-
Now, let’s dive into the trip itself:
**\*Tokyo – 5 days\***
**Accommodations**:
**Day 1** \- Arrive **Hoshinoya Tokyo** ([https://www.hoshinoya.com/tokyo/en/](https://www.hoshinoya.com/tokyo/en/)). This was our anniversary stay. We are a gay female couple and were concerned about homophobia but experienced none. We booked this oasis six months in advance, which enabled a 50% discount. This tranquil haven became our sanctuary amidst Tokyo’s bustling streets.
A few highlights:
* Daily retreats to the \*17th-floor onsen\* — an unexpected quiet in the heart of downtown Tokyo.
* Exceptional service and a delicious traditional Japanese breakfast.
* The bathroom, filled with premium facial products.
* An exquisite flower arrangement for our fourth anniversary.
* Incredible service.
* Kimonos and PJs in room.
**Day 2 (Tuesday):** Started the day with a serene walk around the **Imperial Palace**, then headed to **Shimokitazawa**. I walked the meandering roads with no plans and no timetable. Engaged in some great people-watching and nabbed a few thrifted items. The donuts from *Mister Donut* were a treat.
**Day 3**: This was my 40th birthday. We started at **Glitch Coffee** ([https://glitchcoffee.com/](https://glitchcoffee.com/)) (a bit pricey but worth it!). After, we went to Ginza and randomly witnessed the morning opening at **Mitsukoshi** (a department store)—the atmosphere was electric. Many people had lined up to be the first ones in and we quickly learned why! The day peaked with an **Izakaya Food Tour** ([https://abnb.me/0nuDywzsbDb](https://abnb.me/0nuDywzsbDb)) in **Shinjuku**. We toured four izakayas, navigated the red-light district, and snapped memorable photos. Our tour guide Yuki was incredible. The food was mind-blowing.
**Day 4:** Breakfast at **Bill’s** for their famed ricotta pancakes. Took a refreshing break at our hotel, followed by a rejuvenating headspa treatment at **Wayanpuri** in Ginza. We don’t have headspas in the States. I’m into ASMR and a headspa treatment was kinda what I built my trip around lol **(YouTube: ASMR Twix).**
Later, we caught a **sumo tournament** (book in advance, only three a year!) at the sumo arena. Insane!!!! So violent, they literally tried to take each other’s heads off. We are now sumo fans for sure. Easy to learn the rules and EXCITING!! The evening wrapped with sushi at **Sushi Mizukami** ([http://sushi–mizukami.jp/en/](http://sushi–mizukami.jp/en/)), a 9-seat Michelin Star sushi spot near Imperial Palace. You can easily book through MyConcierge ([https://myconciergejapan.com/](https://myconciergejapan.com/)).
**Day 5**: Travel day to **Kyoto** aboard the Shinkansen. A hiccup at Tokyo station with our **SmartEX** tickets, but we eventually sorted it out.
**\*Kyoto – 4 days\***
**Day 1:** Arrive **Hotel The Mitsui** The property’s grounds and garden left us in awe — both the service and the ambiance managed to surpass Hoshinoya.
Highlights:
* A breathtaking onsen, albeit a tad cooler than Hoshinoya’s.
* Another delectable traditional Japanese breakfast.
* Service, service, SERVICE!!! They even went to the train station to get our train tickets! 😳
Evening at the historic **Yoshikawa Inn** ([http://www.kyoto-yoshikawa.co.jp/sp/en/](http://www.kyoto-yoshikawa.co.jp/sp/en/)) — their tempura is a must-try. They have actual inconspicuously placed (caged) **crickets** in all the rooms to add to the old-timey ambiance. It was like stepping into 1800s Kyoto.
**Day 2 (Saturday)**: A serene private tea ceremony at **Camellia Garden** ([https://www.tripadvisor.com/AttractionProductReview-g298564-d19763579-Stunning_Private_Tea_Ceremony_Camellia_Garden_Teahouse-Kyoto_Kyoto_Prefecture_Kink.html)) followed by a free-roaming of local streets around our hotel which led to an exploration of coffee shops, ceramics, and art stores. Returned with local coffee and art by a local artist.
**Day 3 (Sunday)**: Embarked on the **Fushimi Inari Hidden Hike** ([https://abnb.me/9rtFyfvsbDb](https://abnb.me/9rtFyfvsbDb)). This hike was super woodsy and challenging! I do not recommend it unless you love nature and hiking! After, we shopped our hearts out at **Nishiki Market,** where we had Kobe beef and chicken skewers, soy milk donuts, and Subi soft serve -yuzu and honey flavor; then ended with some coin laundry and sleep.
**Day 4 (Monday):** Depart for Seoul!
**Additional Insights:** **A Few Common Concerns Addressed**
**Medication**: Like many, we were quite anxious about the medication stories shared here. Here’s our experience: I did not bring meds in original bottles but opted for a pill organizer and took photos of my medication bottles as a precaution. I brought 2 weeks’ worth. I brought a few (unauthorized) Xanax for the flight. (Thanks mom!) Throughout customs, nobody checked or questioned our medications. No one around us removed anything from their luggage. To be honest, we were off the flight and into our taxi within 10 minutes. Customs was very fast and much more efficient than many places I’ve visited.
**Tattoos**: Allegedly, tattoos are still a bit taboo, but it seems times are changing.- I have a full sleeve, and while moving around Tokyo, not a single odd stare.- At **Hoshinoya Tokyo,** they preferred we use the private onsen option since it’s traditional and fully nude. **Hotel The Mitsui,** on the other hand, has a co-ed onsen where swimsuits are mandatory, and tattoos are not an issue.
**Dress Code:** With the blazing 100°F temperature, I saw a lot of people, who I assumed to be locals, with exposed shoulders and wearing quite short shorts.
**Language**: Communicating exclusively in English wasn’t a problem in either Tokyo or Kyoto.
**Money**: Brought along ¥44,300 ($300 USD) for the week (for two of us) and used the last of it at the laundromat the night before leaving Japan. **Everywhere accepted credit cards.**
**Transit**: Uber was our primary ride, but I did venture on the train once. I highly recommend the Suica card, preloaded via Amex.
**Phone**: I have Verizon in the US. I bought a Ubigi eSim (Airalo was sold out??) and it worked well. I accidentally activated it too soon so had to send a message to customer service and they extended the expiration date to my return home date.
**TL/DR** You don’t have to do the itineraries you see here or by travel influencers online. Make Japan whatever you want it to be, for me that was rest and relaxation! Splurge on accommodations, where possible. Book everything at least 6 months in advance for discounts. Book only one thing per day; let the rest just evolve naturally. No one can see everything and trying to do so is an impediment to actually experiencing Japan.
Safe travels!
And don’t leave without trying the **Famichiki** at Family Mart!
Edit: Formatting.
26 comments
Thank you for formatting that beautifully.
I love this! Saving for my upcoming trip. We didn’t quite have the advance planning you did but I also agree on focusing on fewer attractions creating less stress while travelling. I prefer to research the living hell out of a place before going, booking whatever we deem necessary, and just going with the flow for the rest. Trying to rush around with a 6am – 6pm itinerary gives me serious anxiety.
Sounds like an awesome trip! I might be tempted to splurge on Hoshinoya on my next trip haha. I’m currently in Japan, do you remember the izakaya you’ve visited? I didn’t have an izakaya experience yet, would really love to go if the food is so nice.
We stayed at Hoshinoya Tokyo about 2 weeks ago and had an amazing stay! The service was top notch, the building was pristine, the kimonos and PJs were very nice, and the rooftop onsen was like something out of a movie. Super easy to get around with the underground access to the subway and tunnel to Tokyo Station. And the scrambled eggs in the western breakfast are *chefs kiss*. Would absolutely recommend staying there.
We also booked way in advance (about 9mo out) and got a heavy % off for booking consecutive nights.
yeah this is the post covering everything i want to hear 🙂 glad you enjoyed your trip!
Happy Anniversary and Birthday, an AnniBDay or Birthsary if you will. Thanks for the details here.
Yikes some of those cost almost 2K a night to stay
I like the 1 activity a day. I’m doing something similar where I plan a section of Tokyo a day like . 1 day in Shinjuku
Sounds like my style! I started planning almost a year in advance. Then again I am always planning/thinking to visit Japan lol. I looked into the Hoshinoya as well but my understanding is that the roof top onsen doesn’t provide a view of the city. Would you say it’s still worth?
Fellow introvert with a love for luxurious travels here as well. I can highly recommend the Aman in Tokyo and Kyoto, it is SO peaceful and quiet there. The one in Kyoto isn’t in the middle of the city, so it’s perfect to relax and walk around the property 🙂
I love that you planned a trip for YOU. Sounds like a great time, and thanks for sharing!
I know that this is a report of your experience, but there is some points I would like to touch for other people who might use your report as reference.
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Doing something illegal and not getting stoppe for it does not make it less illegal. I would highly recommend people to not break the law if they are not ready to face the consequences. By that I mean do not bring medication that you know are not allowed (and if you bring medication, make sure they are allowed), and bring them in original package to make sure that custom agent can easily confirm what those are. Not doing so, you are taking a chance.
Tattoo, you might had a misunderstanding of how they are taboo. Generally speaking they are not a problem, but you can get access refused in onsen, pool and gym, just as it happened at Hoshinoya, they refused you access to the public onsen.
Dress code, Japan is generally known to be kind of conservative in their clothing and how revealing it is, but maybe not in the same way as everyone expect. The thing that is the least common is showing cleavage. The amount of shoulder shown and how short the shorts are kind of depend, from person to person, and potentially on the area depending on local fashion trend. I remember years ago I went in summer and walking around Shibuya you could see a lot of legs. That being said, there is things you won’t really see, like girls wearing leggings. If they do, they would wear shorts or skirts over it. It’s also common that they would wear two tops, one that would be like and “underwear”, and one that is the cute one. The one under could for example hide the belly or shoulders that could be visible by wearing the cute top only.
I would tell people they should not expect to go to Japan and speak exclusively in English without problem. There is absolutely a lot of people that do not speak English more than a few words. You should be ready to use translators as you are more likely to use it than not. But yes, there is often enough English to go by.
Money, here I think that both sides need to nuance their recommendations. Japan is no longer a purely cash based society, but it is no yet a place where everywhere accept credit cards. You should absolutely bring some cash as you can encounter places that do not accept cards. It is absolutely possible to use a credit card to pay for the bulk of your expenses, but you should really bring some cash if you do not want to limit what you can do.
Transit, just so people are clear on that, the keyword they should remember from your report is Luxurious. Using public transport is absolutely the most affordable way to move around. You can absolutely expect to travel to Japan and not take taxi even once. I actually have a question about Uber. Did it call a privately owned car or did it call a taxi ? Uber have long been known to not be legal in Japan and ordering a Uber would still work, but calling a taxi. Kind of curious as I’ve taken a taxi like twice in 7 trips to Japan.
I got so many good recs off your list here thank you! If you post your Seoul itinerary anywhere, please link as I also am aiming to go there!
I think more people should consider not jam-packing their schedules. I took a similar approach and only scheduled 2-3 main activities per day. Even that was a bit exhausting. But I love that there are others here who appreciate a less stressful travelling experience. I also agree that almost everywhere we went, English was completely fine – it’s surprisingly common that there’s someone who can speak English, or that there’s English signage or menus.
Sounds like a relaxing Vacy.
I’m currently researching for my own trip in march and decided to make it location, location, location. Everyday is one location only so I can drink it in. If I don’t like it then that’s what trains and buses are for!
Just looking at some of the itineraries here makes me feel tired lol. Late but happy anniversary!
About the tattoos, most Western tattoos do not have the elements that are commonly found in the so- called Yakuza tattoos and do not evoke the same response as those tattoos long associated with hand activities may. Some shop owners may have a blanket ban of tattoos regardless of the origin but in my opinion, that’s just a one- sized fit all policy to make the enforcement easier for them and not particularly borne out of equating Western tattoos with gang activities or some kind of moral terpitude.
So a stereotypical tribal tattoo or your favorite anime character tattoo is not going to have the same impact as someone opening up his shirt and exposing a tiger/dragon/oni tattoo strategically inked to be covered up when wearing a shirt.
That said, some older Japanese are at least disdainful of tattoos and find them uncomfortable to see, and some shop owners cater to that relative majority than a minority that comes with a tattoo.
Do you know whats the difference between premium and business?
Thank you so much for your beautifully formatted post! I am a kindred luxury-leaning, high anxiety spirit. I have been thinking long and hard about what to spend my Marriott points on in Kyoto and this was a lovely endorsement for Hotel the Mitsui.
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Despite having travelled before to Japan, I forgot about the rules around ADHD meds. I do not have ADHD but a travel partner of mine does so I will need to look into this further!
This is a very well written and well formatted post. Thank you
This was such a lovely itinerary! Thank you so much for sharing. Love the level of detail and the helpful tips and appreciate you sharing your experience as a queer couple with tattoos (two of my concerns as well).
I might never get around to going, but this was a great vicarious-read, thank you! Much more inline with what I’d want to do than the normal itinerary. I’m glad it all went well, and happy birthday.
$$$ money traveler
Glad you had fun though
Thanks! That’s really helpful!
I feel relaxed reading this. Now I’m ready to tackle reading through itineraries where people are planning activities in 15 minute blocks
How was the head spa?
>My daily schedule contained ONE planned activity per day. (YES I know this is sacrilege for this subreddit!)
Eh? From what I see in the comments most of the time, it’s people talking that the posters plan way too much for a given day. I see nothing wrong with one planned activity per day and then do whatever the fuck you feel like doing for the remainder of it.