Trip Report | 16 Days in Sept | Tokyo/Hakone/Mt. Fuji summit/Kyoto/Nara/Uji/Hiroshima/Matsumoto

My partner and I just returned from our 16 day trip to Japan. This was my third time to Japan in nine years, and her first time! My first time to Japan was solo whereas the second time with a family member. My first two trips included Tokyo, hiking to the summit of Mt. Fuji, Kyoto, Osaka, and Koyasan. This time we followed another “classic” itinerary and I wanted to showcase the popular cities to my partner, continue to explore neighborhoods I haven’t been to yet, plus enjoy shopping, concerts and nature. Interests also included board games, vegetarian food, and record shopping.

**Prior to the trip**

I got my JR pass locally in Canada. We wanted to get as much out of our 14-day JR pass as possible before the price hikes. We began the first several days of the trip with one bag each (55L and 30L packs). We kept light to hike Mt. Fuji. I tried learning hiragana and practiced Duolingo for a couple months before the trip. It’s helpful to learn words like ‘oishii’ and several more basic ones. I bought the Human Japanese app with my Google Rewards funds as well. I spoke to more locals on this trip with a mix of English and Japanese words in my sentences. I downloaded maps for offline use on Google Maps. Navitime app is great for the JR pass and other rail passes, plus I generally found it more reliable. Google Translate for camera translation. Turn on your Google Timeline if you want to revisit the routes on your trip afterwards.

**Accommodations**

I used Booking for most accommodations. On more than one occasion I booked a place with free cancellation and ended up rebooking for a slightly better price for the same room. Only for one place I used Agoda (wouldn’t use again but was fine). Prices below are for two people.

* Tokyo
* TOKYO-W-INN Asakusa (¥6,732 per night): I booked this in Asakusa because it’s one train from NRT and was only 1,110 yen for the ride. We didn’t have the JR Pass activated at this point and we were very tired the first day. It’s a close walk to Senso-ji temple. \[A\]
* Hakone
* Onsen Guesthouse HAKONE TENT (¥9,650 per night): Very convenient and easy to get to. They have two onsens in the basement. One is always first come first serve, the other is reservable from around 3 pm to 10 pm, otherwise it is FCFS. No one was using either between 5:30 am -7:00 am when we went. Traditional-style rooms. \[A\]
* Mt Fuji
* Miharashikan Mountain Hut (Subashiri Trail at 3,200m) (¥17,510 per night with dinners included): You’ll want to stay as high as the mountain as possible for the night, regardless of the trail. The higher you go, typically the more expensive it gets, but I found Miharashikan to be a great value. Huts sell out quickly for July and August but September was easier to get. \[A-\]
* Kyoto
* THE POCKET HOTEL Kyoto Shijo Karasuma (¥6,158 per night with breakfasts included): It’s fairly accessible from Kyoto station. You can use your IC to take the train two stops or walk 35 min and walk by Higashi Hongan-ji Temple. Hotel is located one block from Nishiki market and near a busy street with buses which also take IC cards. Insanely small rooms but to me that is part of the Japanese experience and the facilities were excellent and extremely clean. We used our breakfast vouchers 3 out of the 4 days but wouldn’t get them next time. \[A\]
* Osaka
* APA Hotel & Resort Osaka Umeda-eki Tower (¥9,900 per night): Incredibly lucky and stunning views of downtown Osaka from the 23rd floor. Gender-separated pools. 24-hour convenience store inside of the hotel. \[A+\]
* Hiroshima
* Smile Hotel Hiroshima (¥5,702 per night): Average hotel experience. Great price. \[B\]
* Matsumoto
* Premier Hotel Cabin Matsumoto (¥9,923 per night): Incredible views of the alps in the morning with a buffet breakfast. I’m glad we opted to get the vouchers for the earliest breakfast time so we could get seats at the window. I recommend having a Japanese breakfast buffet at least once on the trip at a hotel. \[B+\]
* Shinshu Yokoya Farm (¥14,399 per night): The highlight of the trip if you want to have a rural experience near farmland or fruit orchards. We checked in at 16:00 and then went for a walk to Matsumoto City Alps Park where we had a small picnic. Our host was extremely yasashi (kind) and we had such a delightful time picking apples and talking in the morning. Bring food to the guest house since the closest konbini is a 15 min walk. The host can call a taxi for you in the morning. We took a taxi there from Matsumoto station and it was ¥1800. \[A+\]
* Tokyo
* Lucky Hostel (¥8200 per night): I booked on Agoda but I wouldn’t do that again. The email spam and just having everything on Booking would have been better. The hotel was also by far the worst we stayed at but it was adequate. \[C-\]

**Day by Day**

* Tokyo
* **Day 1.** Eventually we found the 7-11 ATM, asked about the PASMO Passport (and very happy we didn’t stand in line to activate our JR pass!), and hopped on the correct train after confirming and showing Google Maps to a train staff member. After checking into our hotel we walked to Ueno from Asukasa. I couldn’t find a good enough deal on SIMs at the airport and got two SIM cards (15 GB and 5 GB) for ¥8000 yen from “Yodobashi Camera Multimedia Ueno 2” and bought a SIM pin because we forgot one. The data only SIMs throttle your speed once you hit maximum limits. I noted to myself I shouldn’t have drank any tea that day and would have liked to bring melatonin for next time.
* **Day 2.** The next day we wandered Sensō-ji at 5:30 am in a light drizzle. By 6:00 am we were already in a Don Quijote. Coffee Kan has you scan a QR code at your seat (unique per chair) and you can order using an English menu. We then ate at Ichiran Asakusa after going back to Sensō-ji later in the morning. Sumida Aquarium was amazing for a previous freshwater planted tank owner like myself. Tokyo Skytree mall has a Pokemon store too. Disappointed by the music selection and size of Asakusa Bookoff.
* Hakone
* **Day 3.** Activated JR pass at Ueno station. Google Maps was generally good but this was the first time it failed us but it was my fault. In the morning we planned to go to Hakone. Our destination was Odawara from Tokyo station. We got on the Nozomi train (limited stops, not JR eligible), not the Hikari train (stops at Odawara, JR eligible). I followed the directions from Google Maps for the specific time and platform to Odawara, I think?… oh well. I’m glad no one asked to see our tickets. We got off in Nagoya and ate at Grains (vegan restaurant) and made the most of our detour before the next train to Odawara. The detour cost us a few hours.
* From Odawara we hopped on the Hakone Tozan Railway cable cars that will take you to Hakone. This section was not covered by the JR pass but only 770 yen. There was no time to do the Hakone Free Pass loop but this was a blessing in disguise. We relaxed and had a great time at the hot springs theme park – Hakone Kowakien Yunessun. We enjoyed ramen and ice cream in our bathing suits at the public pool area, soaked in the coffee-smelling pool and went to the gendered open-air Japanese baths. The buses in town accept IC cards.
* Mt Fuji
* **Day 4.** Went from Gora Station in Hakone to Gotemba station where we took the bus to reach Subashiri 5th station. Picked up 4L of water each and food for the hike at a 7-11. Wear good hiking shoes. Lightweight runners for the rest of the trip and switch out to hiking shoes as needed. Consider picking up a poncho from a 100 yen store. Rain pants were a great idea. Took 6 hours to get to the hut.
* Kyoto
* **Day 5.** We hiked up Subashiri Trail (I think I liked it better than Yoshida trail), walked counterclockwise around the crater and hiked down Fujinomiya Trail. I read the maps/timetables wrong so the bus at 13:00 wasn’t operating after 8/27 so we had to wait until 15:00 for the next bus.
* I was experiencing covid symptoms coming down fujisan that lasted several days but nothing serious. Be careful and stay up to date with your vaccinations. Checked into hotel for 21:00.
* **Day 6** Nara day trip! Played taiko drumming game at Amusement Cue Nara Sanjo in Nara on the way to the mochi guys. For 100 yen you can get 3 songs and unlimited tries with the tutorial. There was also an “easy” claw game for beginners for 100 yen with three tries. We felt like we won a million bucks picking up a puffed corn snack on the third claw.
* Ate at Vegan Cafe Ramuna – one of my fav restaurants on the trip. Run by a single person and the food was amazing! I preferred the Kasuga Taisha Shrine and the quieter areas of Nara Park. Going off the path to feed the deer was lots of fun and would recommend. I skipped the Arashiyama Monkey Park this trip since I did it on my other two trips so it was a great substitute. I liked feeding the deer more anyways.
* Oishii (delicious) food at PINE STORE next to the mochi guys. I still think about that smoked egg with roe. I took a pic of the featured menu outside and translated it into english to show the chef.
* **Day 7.** Walked half of the philosophers path before going to Zenri-ji Temple for 9 am. There was a ceremony happening at 10:30 am and we were lucky to see it. Had okonomiyaki for second breakfast. Cultural festival near Kyoto Okazaki TSUTAYA BOOKS so was able to try matcha kakigōri (shaved ice dessert) on the hot day. Went to Kyoto Museum of Crafts and Design. Had a reservation for AWOMB Nishi-Kiyamachi (perfect vegan sushi).
* **Day 8.** Caught the bus to walk the shopping streets of Sannenzaka in the morning. Visited Kodai-ji/Entoku-in/Kodaiji Sho Museum. Looked inside Vintage Kimono AN Gion. Ate at Gion Soy Milk Ramen Uno Yokiko (amazing vegan ramen). MANDARACHA was one of the best parts of my trip. I recommend that if you want a tea tasting experience, this is the place for you. They serve vegan desserts that are the best I had in Japan. The matcha cups were way more generous than other places and they help you step by step if you order other leafy teas. If you’re lucky you can catch live music there. Bought some CDs and Pokemon cards at Bookoff Plus.
* Osaka
* **Day 9.** Got to Fushimi-Inari for 6:50 am. Submitted. Went back for “Red Torii” geocache (second time finding it haha) and walked a little along the bamboo grove along that trail for a few min. It’s nice to get away from the crowds at 10 am around there. Ate great udon at はな家.
* Had no plans so we got our bags from the lockers at Inari Station and took a spontaneous trip to Uji with our JR passes. Byōdō-in Temple was the most captivating and interesting temple I visited on this trip! The museum inside has incredible history. Afterwards we went to go for matcha and desserts on the street outside the museum but it still didn’t compare to MANDARACHA.
* Checked into APA Hotel & Resort Osaka Umeda-eki Tower and bought some records from FLAKE RECORDS and then walked Dotonbori at night. Takoyaki balls were overrated.
* **Day 10.** I got all the games I wanted on my board game shopping list at Yellow Submarine Namba.
\- Crash Octopus (2021) with Pink Pirate expansion
\- Harvest ハーベスト (2023 reprint)
\- Let’s Make a Bus Route (2018)
\- Let’s Make a Bus Route: The Dice Game (2021)
\- SCOUT (Oink Games)
\- Whale to Look (Oink Games)
\- Tokyo Highway (Itten games)
\- Wonder Bowling (Itten games)
\- Tower of Doubt (Itten)
* Pretty bad sushi at Kura Sushi Shinsekai Tsutenkaku (conveyor belt sushi) near Tsūtenkaku but the game that plays on the screen and the 100 yen gacha ball with the store’s sushi was very cute. The used CD stores along Nipponbashi weren’t super great but they were plentiful. Stopped by Timebomb Records(B+) and Flake Records (A+). Hot red bean taiyaki everyday
* Hiroshima (day trip to Miyajima)
* **Day 11.** Went to Pokemon store one last time for Pokemon Cards but no luck. So far, only available at Tokyo Skytree Pokemon Centre.
* Left our bags at Hiroshima station. Took JR train to Miyajima and then the ropeway to the top. We made our way to the summit for the best views. We only wish we had more time to explore Daishoin but we didn’t want to miss the last JR ferry. Google Maps/website was inaccurate for ferry times so it wouldn’t hurt to ask staff when the last JR ferry is.
* Ate at Okonomimura (home of multiple floors of okonomiyaki stalls) and then I went to Bookoff for late night music shopping and found a great selection of records.
* Matsumoto
* **Day 12.** Sobering visit to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum and walked past the Atomic Bomb Dome. Wished we had time to see Shukkeien Garden. Checked out of the hotel and made the 5 hour trip to Matsumoto, a city nestled in the Japanese alps.
* **Day 13.** Woke up early for the Japanese-style breakfast buffet. Got to the Matsumoto Castle for opening time, which turned out to be a great plan since the top floor of the castle can get quite busy and space is limited.
* Had a wonderful time at the Matsumoto City Museum of Art which wasn’t too busy or crowded. They had a special exhibition of Takashi Yamazaki’s directorial/movie work (he’s directing the new Godzilla movie) and Kusama Yayoi’s permanent exhibit. You don’t want to miss Yayoi’s art works if you’re in Matsumoto – highly recommended. Bought plenty of records at Honyarado, especially city pop and some anime soundtracks, for excellent prices!
* Took a taxi to Shinshu Yokoya Farm, a cute little guesthouse located on the property of a small orchard farm owner. The orchard itself was a five minute walk away but there were apple orchards all around! We walked up to the top of Matsumoto City Park. Opened some pokemon packs, drank apple juice from their farm, ate sushi, and watched some anime on the home theater system.
* Tokyo
* **Day 14.** Got more Pokemon 151 packs from the Matsumoto pop-up Pokemon store one last time (they close Sept 25). Took the JR express train to Shinjuku, didn’t reserve seats (though there were no non-reserved cars) but you can sit in seats with a red light above indicating no one has reserved that seat for that portion of the trip.
* Had some of the best ramen at Soushi Menya Musashi in Shinjuku. Had probably the best night in Japan watching a concert. There were four post-hardcore/alternative bands at this show in the basement venue in Shimokitazawa, a trendy neighbourhood with an underground music, theater, and art scene. Jigdress was my favourite of the night!!!
* **Day 15.** Checked out the alluring neon lights of Yokocho Food Hall in Tokyu Kabukicho Tower. Spent more time than expected at the outdoor/camping/sports store Sports Depo. Walked through Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden and loved the greenhouse, museum, and fruit daifuku mochi with hot matcha tea from a tea house. Stopped at Big Love Records (A+) in Harajuku and picked up a couple exclusive records. Went to Ōta Memorial Museum of Art for the rotating exhibitions of ukiyo-e art. I come here every time I visit Japan and I love it. The shop also has the best tenugui (hand dyed Japanese towels) which make great souvenirs. I wish I had way more time in Tower Records than I did. Concert at Billboard Tokyo Live and watched Maki Nomiya sing popular shibuya-kei songs. So classy and everyone had lots of fun!
* **Day 16.** Spent the remainder of our IC card at the convenience store at the airport terminal and the rest of our change at the tax-free shops and restaurants. No one physically checked or asked anything at customs about our tax-free purchases. Back to Canada.

I appreciate all the tips I’ve received from this subreddit helping me plan trips to Japan! If anyone has any questions, I can try my best answering with the small amount of time I’ve spent in Japan. Thanks!