I visited Japan years ago, and relaxing in an onsen is one of my best memories from that trip. I went back to Japan recently, but I transitioned in the meantime. Before my trip, I tried to find information about how to navigate onsen as a transgender person. Most of the posts suggested renting a private onsen, and I couldn’t find any feedback from transgender men using public baths.
So, here is my experience. I hope this will help other people in the same situation.
I have been on testosterone for a year and a half and had top surgery six months ago. I pass as a man all the time, and my gender is never questioned. But, as we need to be completely naked in the onsen, and as my genitalia doesn’t match the rest of my appearance, I was worried if I could use the men’s bath without any issue. SPOILER: I did it, and everything went perfectly fine.
When you go to an onsen, there is always a big towel and a smaller face towel provided. In the changing room, you need to get naked and put all your belongings in a bin or a locker. You also leave your big towel there, but you can keep the little face towel with you. From this point, when I was out of the bath, I casually kept the towel in front of my crotch when walking. When using the shower, as they were always low with a stool, nobody could notice anything because I was sitting. Then, I took back my face towel in front of me to go to the bath. As the towel must not go in the water, I quickly put it on the side of the pool when going into the water. Once in the bath, nobody could really notice what is between my legs, so I could chill and enjoy.
Some Japanese men also hide their private parts in the onsen (though most of the people don’t care about being naked). As a tourist, I think I just passed as a shy gaijin, but nobody seemed to care at all and no one glared at me. Most of the time, people just enjoy themselves and don’t care about other people. If someone noticed my absence of a penis, nobody said anything.
I went to three different public onsens with my partner (who is a cis man): one was almost empty, and one was very crowded. Though it was more comfortable for me in the less crowded onsen, it was a really good experience each time.
12 comments
So excellent you could enjoy the Onsen experience in peace.
That’s great–I’m so glad you were able to experience the onsen without any problems!
And here I’m stressed out wondering whether I will be given a hard time over the bandage on my hip (hiding a very small tattoo…)
I’m glad you had a good experience. I think, because of the towels and the general “don’t look” attitude, people who have had top surgery could pass in the men’s onsen.
Though, I do think people will risk jail time if found out or a heavy beating if the wrong people are in attendance. Especially the other way around without having had all the surgery.
I recommend a private onsen to protect yourself, but I’m happy it went well for you.
I think the big thing here is you looked the part. You had the top surgery and like you said you look like a man and with the testosterone your body is a mans. While you didn’t have male genitalia people could assume there was some medical reason for it. They probably didn’t even assume you were trans as such surgeries are still not common in Japan.
It is most likely the treatment OP would have received would have been very different if they still had a chest and looked feminine.
[removed]
As an MtF woman, I’m really glad you had a good experience and were able to stay safe.
I’m very skeptical of this going well for a trans woman, though – not one who doesn’t pass and hasn’t had bottom surgery, at least.
From what I’ve seen of trans men who have been on T for a while, if you have some facial hair and a lot of body hair, people might not have even noticed your genitals at all. The opposite is definitely not true for trans woman :’)
Thank you for sharing though!
This is great to hear, thanks for sharing!
Well I think having a thick pubic hair will help as well.. they’ll just assume it is tiny to see. Not many are on the bigger side in Japan anyway.
Yeah a lot of Japanese people hide their crotch with the small towel too, including myself. Good to hear you enjoyed the onsen experience.
Yay!!! Glad you had a good time!
It’s great that you had that experience! You managed to do it, and it should be allowed.
However, this is definitely not recommended as it could lead to a lot of problems. Suggesting others to do so can put them in very real danger. Someone who is mtf would get thrown in jail if found out. Sadly, it’s the reality, and as tourists, we have to comply.
At the very least, it’s extremely risky. Do so at your own risk.
For what it’s worth there are also a fair number of mixed gender onsens in more rural parts of Japan.
They are usually in pretty awesome spots too, presumably they are mixed so no one misses out.