Trip Report part 1 Kyoto (4 days) with food review + pics

Hello everyone, I learned a lot from this subreddit prior to my trip and sharing my experience to try and give back to the community. Also, because the trip is fresh on my mind, and I have the memory of a goldfish so this will serve as a guide when we plan our next japan trip next year.

We are a couple in our 30s, well used to traveling, both been to Japan before, we both don’t really care too much about anime, not a big fan of temples either, love architecture, shopping, and most importantly the food and coffee. It was my first vacation where I researched restaurants ahead of time and made a bunch of reservations, some were worth it, some definitely weren’t, will go into detail below. I’m a very picky eater, so YMMV

Our itinerary was definitely packed and not for everyone, probably averaged ~20-30k steps/day but we prefer being more busy in city destinations, and travel more relaxed in beach destinations like hawaii.

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**Kyoto**

*Day 1: Travel*

Landed in NRT ~245pm, took NEX to Shinagawa to catch shinkansen to Kyoto. Was thinking about maybe reserving seats ahead of time with smart ex but totally unnecessary, were able to get reserved seats with space for luggage no prob at the shinkansen desk at nrt.

Arrived in Kyoto ~8pm. I didn’t mind the travel, I’d much rather have done this rather than stay the night in Tokyo which I think is more commonly done. I didn’t know this prior but there actually is a direct flight from YVR to Osaka, only runs during certain times of the year, will definitely take this next time.

We stayed at [Hotel abest grande kyoto kiyomizu](https://maps.app.goo.gl/ngDHKtQVmVGKmMZL7). Hotel was very clean, couple downsides were that it is a little bit away from the main busy part of Kyoto, next time will stay at a hotel near Gion-shijo/kyoto kawaramachi station. Also they don’t do luggage forwarding because they don’t take payment at the time? or something, so had to drag our luggage to conbini for luggage forwarding.

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*Day 2:*

Woke up very early, left hotel at 6am towards Yasaka pagoda. I think this is definitely worth getting up early for to avoid crowds and to be able to get [pictures](https://imgur.com/vJeHFLu) [like](https://imgur.com/YfcFoS0) [these](https://imgur.com/K5B6cxH)

Then went to Kiyomizu dera, right at opening, very little tourists around which made the experience much more pleasant. One downside is none of the shops along ninenzaka and sanenzaka are open.

After we went to [Starbucks ninenzaka](https://maps.app.goo.gl/ouK3SUx7CcqUZvKg7), got there 20 min before opening and there was already like 15 people waiting. By the time it was actually opening time there was a huge lineup. I think it was worth going to see the unique [exterior](https://imgur.com/a/VS5mPH8) and to sit on tatami mats inside, but probably won’t go again next time.

Then walked to Kodaiji temple, a very [pretty](https://imgur.com/8G6SqcN) temple with a bamboo grove inside. The bamboo area is quite small, and not as tall as the ones at Arashiyama but the big benefit is you can be absolutely [alone](https://imgur.com/PxjVhUx).

Then headed to yasaka shrine area, and took a bus to the start of Philosopher’s path. I think this was a pretty big letdown, I don’t think it’s worth doing unless it’s cherry blossom season.

Then we decided to hike up Mt Daimonji. I read it was a 1hr hike, but massively underestimated the difficulty. There are parts where you pretty much are doing the stairmaster, didn’t help it was sunny and 30+ outside. The [view](https://imgur.com/w4UxZzb) was kind of worth it? Definitely won’t be doing it next time.

After the hike, we were both tired and decided to grab lunch at [Fu-ka](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Jtiu87avMnhvPMtM6). Small little restaurant run by an elderly couple. We got the [omurice and tonkatsu](https://imgur.com/6uvbWTK). Tonkatsu was just okay (6.5/10), the omurice was absolutely amazing (8.5/10). Will definitely recommend and will probably go back here next time.

Then we went to Ginkakuji temple, which was utterly forgettable.

After a long packed day, went back to hotel to freshen up and headed out for dinner at [Kushi tanaka](https://maps.app.goo.gl/v4kKyLk8LjzsCWFJ8) which is a Kushiage restaurant, basically little skewers deep fried in a light batter, much lighter than tempura. Used Jpneazy to reserve @800yen/person. Dinner was 20 courses of skewers, I thought it was pretty good but towards the end of the dinner it gets a little too much just eating the same batter over and over again. I think it was still worth it as it was ~4700yen pp, one elderly chef is cooking for all 10 people at the restaurant and keeping track of all the orders which was impressive to me. Overall I’d say it was a 7/10

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Day 3:

Left hotel at 645am, took an hour to get to Arashiyama at ~745. In hindsight, should have gotten up a little earlier as there was already quite a few people at the bamboo groves. I personally thought it was still impressive even though it’s not my first time being here. While leaving the bamboo grove, a large tour group bus unloaded a bunch of people so we got there just in time.

Decided not to go to Tenryu ji temple, didn’t think it was too impressive just looking at pictures.

After, walked over to [% arabica](https://maps.app.goo.gl/HLaRBouWwuJ8qb7x7). Got there 20 min before opening and there was already a line forming. However, I did manage to get a nice clean shot of the coffee shop which I personally think is absolutely [gorgeous](https://imgur.com/DXGx0BL). Their espresso machine is [beautiful ](https://imgur.com/sKRBexW) as well. This is how the [line](https://imgur.com/tJkMVnC) looks like right before opening at 830. As a coffee snob, I’d say the kyoto latte was good, not great. Will definitely go back for the aesthetics.

We were planning on doing monkey park but after yesterday’s hike we decided to skip instead. Killed some time walking around the area, visiting cute shops like [this](https://maps.app.goo.gl/nKv574RjsMppm8NU9).

Then we went to Kinkakuji temple. It was ~11am and it was absolutely packed, but you can still get decent photos since the temple is fenced off. Honestly this temple was much more impressive in person than in pictures, pictures definitely don’t do it justice. Will revisit again despite the crowds.

For lunch, we made a reservation at [Sushi Kawano](https://maps.app.goo.gl/kBUGy8WKBxxR6uXu7) (tabelog 3.64). Reservation was pretty easy on tablecheck, it was a lunch nigiri only omakase for 10000 yen. We were the only tourists there. Being from vancouver, I thought I had some decent sushi but nothing I had in the past even at expensive sushi places in vancouver compares to [this](https://imgur.com/9yWKRLG). The rice was seasoned perfectly with a mix of red and white vinegar, the [fish](https://imgur.com/vZ4meNH) was incorporated so well with the [rice](https://imgur.com/RqJYKLU). I’m not normally a fan of uni as it has a metallic taste, but the uni had none of that unpleasantness. This place was a solid 9/10, I would definitely go back here again when I go to Kyoto. I would say it was definitely the best value for money sushi I tried in Japan.

After lunch, we went back to hotel to shower and refresh. Headed out again to explore Gion area a little bit, then went to our dinner reservation at [Kobe beef mourinya gion](https://maps.app.goo.gl/3Ldpj4MmxtCjFi3c6) Now this place has a rating of 4.8 on google with a total of 605 reviews. You get a personal chef who cooks everything directly in front of you on a teppanyaki grill. I’ve never had kobe beef in Japan before, I’ve had some in restaurants in vancouver but apparently they’re not “real” kobe beef.

Restaurant was quite easy to reserve on tablecheck, we got the Mourinya beef and Kobe beef fillet combo for a combined ~38000 yen. Now, the moment we walked in, we could see the entire restaurant is just tourists. They had a course menu with starter, appy, but it was pretty generic. Now to the actual [beef](https://imgur.com/eWw6zGU). Looked pretty good, [tasted](https://imgur.com/rjfbG6e) pretty good too…at least for the first couple pieces. The beef definitely is melt in your mouth. The kobe beef a bit more so than the mourinya beef. However, it was just way way too fatty for us. After a couple of bites I just felt gross, it felt like I was just eating scoops of fat. Maybe we’re just outliers in this regard, but this made me never want to eat kobe beef again. I would much much rather have a cut of steak that is not quite as fatty. I would give this a 3/10. Again, YMMV.

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Day 4:

This was more of a semi rest day for us. We slept in, left hotel at around 1030 and explored Ninenzaka/Sanenzaka shops. It’s a massively different experience with horde of tourists so big you can barely walk. Was still fun exploring the different shops.

We also walked by the Park Hyatt which I thought was absolutely gorgeous. The person in the front was nice enough to let us walk in and explore a little bit, will consider staying here in the future.

Then we explored Nishiki market. Honestly this just felt like one big tourist trap. We tried a bunch of different things, but the only thing I can recommend is [this](https://maps.app.goo.gl/C9tNkoabaJFn3Akt7) place which specializes in tamagoyaki.

We haven’t yet had a bowl of ramen yet, so for dinner we headed to [Men ya inoichi hanare](https://maps.app.goo.gl/8p7b7aJ3c2Qs59ac9). It’s got good rating on tabelog (3.68) and specializes in fish broth instead of the more traditional pork. They have two locations within a short walk, the hanare location is definitely less crowded. Got there 15 minutes before opening and just missed entering at the first sitting but didn’t have to wait too long.
The [ramen](https://imgur.com/undefined) was definitely good, tastes very clean, broth tastes strongly of bonito flakes. Personally, I still prefer a more rich broth for my ramen. I’d rate it 7/10, still worth going so you can try out a different style of ramen.

After dinner, we went to explore Kyoto station, which is beautiful at night. They even have a little light show playing by the stairs.

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*Day 5: Fushimi + Nara + travel to osaka*

Woke up early again, arrived at Fushimi inari around 630am. Not much crowds at this time, at the entrance of the torii gates there were still some influencer types holding up people doing photoshoots, but once you head up a little bit you can get some more privacy. Last time I went, I hiked all the way to the top and was disappointed, this time we just went halfway and came back down. Some highlights were the cute [cats](https://imgur.com/24n2D9S) and [minishrines](https://imgur.com/jskegOd).

Then went to Nara. I wasn’t a fan of Nara last time I went, but my partner loves animals so here we were. Went to [rokumei coffee](https://maps.app.goo.gl/gm1ipiR8spmxrXWx7) which was quite large and had a gorgeous [interior](https://imgur.com/BsT74e0). The breakfast set of coffee + croissant was quite reasonably priced, latte was pretty good, croissant was just okay but that’s because i’m a croissant snob.

I personally don’t like deer, was looking down the whole time trying not to step on deer poo, my partner was busy trying to feed/take selfies with the deer. Skipped kofuku-ji because we’re not temple people and we were quite templed out by now. Seeing this [beautiful house](https://imgur.com/M5tgVsB) was maybe my favourite part of nara. Then went to try the mochi at [Nakatanidou](https://maps.app.goo.gl/VkGMBwHpoAciiy2Z9). This place is very popular and there was a [big line](https://imgur.com/W2sMR1t) of tourists. Thankfully, the line moves very fast. Now being a picky eater, i’m not normally a fan of mochi, but this was the best mochi I’ve ever had. (8.5/10). I’d even put up with the deer again to come here next time.

After this, we took the train to Osaka which I’ll talk about in another post.

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Overall, we really enjoyed Kyoto, the itinerary worked well for us, the biggest mistake was probably going on the Mt daimonji hike. I think this amount of days was perfect as we got to see pretty much everything we wanted without feeling rushed. I think waking up early for Arashiyama and Fushimi inari is absolutely worth it. One thing I would like to try next time I visit is going on a bike tour.

A couple restaurants/cafes I was interested in but didn’t get a chance to go: [Wajoryomen sugari](https://maps.app.goo.gl/LKgwUrR51YwV2yGt8), [Hikiniku to come](https://maps.app.goo.gl/UzTkFE9622fv6BmJ6), [Walden woods](https://maps.app.goo.gl/udgok4uWU68YZ4Cd9)

Didn’t realize it would be this long, thanks for reading for those who made it this far!