Hello there. I originally visited Japan in May 2017. Six year later, I’m finally going back and could not be more excited. I’ve put significantly more effort into my itinerary this time around with the hope that doing so will allow me to have a better time once I’m there. Anyway, I would very much appreciate any feedback on my itinerary. A more detailed version can also be found [here](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FiZ-XIaIsJkmzEt5WIYy_fp0QBVKYhtTKl45tMs-63A/edit?usp=sharing).
# DAY 1 (11/17) – TOKYO (Arrival)
Hotel: Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu
Use the Visit Japan Web app to streamline immigration and customs process prior to arrival. Obtain cash either at an ATM or a currency exchange counter upon arrival. Last time, I used ATMs to withdraw cash. Begin using Verizon Monthly International Plan. Take airport bus to hotel (¥1,100), approximately 60 mins.
# DAY 2 (11/18) – TOKYO
Hotel: Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu
🍁Gotokuji Temple (cat temple); Shinjuku: Suga Jinja (Kimi No Na Wa location), Cross Shinjuku Vision (3D cat billboard); Shibuya: Shibuya Center Gai (3D panda billboard), Shibuya Hikarie (shopping mall for views), MAGNET by SHIBUYA109 (¥500, another shopping mall for views), Shibuya Sky\* (¥2,200, at 3:30 PM); Shinjuku: possibly 🏮Omoide Yokocho afterwards (“Memory Lane,” maze of narrow alleys and popular 📷 photo spot)● Shiro-Hige’s Cream Puff Factory(Studio Ghibli inspired pastries)
● 🦊 Café Kitsuné Shibuya
● Dinner: Coucagno (French restaurant)
# DAY 3 (11/19) – TOKYO
Hotel: Shibuya Excel Hotel TokyuAoyama: Nezu Museum (¥1,500, at 10:00 AM), Maison Kitsuné Aoyama (shopping); Roppongi: The National Art Center; Daikanyama: 🍁Kyu Asakura House (¥100, historic house), 📖 T-Site Daikanyama (huge bookstore), 🦊 Maison Kitsuné – Daikanyama (shopping); Harajuku: Takeshita Street, Tokyu Plaza (popular 📷 photo spot); Yoyogi Park; Shibuya: 📷 photo shoot
● 🦊 Café Kitsuné Aoyama
● 🍡 Aoyama Beniya (wagashi)
● Pierre Hermé Paris Aoyama (macarons)
● Dinner: 🍣 KINKA Sushi Bar Izakaya
# DAY 4 (11/20) – KAMAKURA
Hotel: Tokyo EDITION
Kamakurakōkōmae Station and Adjacent Alley (📷 photo spot for 🚋)), 🍁Hokokuji Temple (¥300, RSVNs N/A, features bamboo gardens), 🍁Meigetsu-in Temple (¥500, RSVNs N/A, features round window), Kotoku-in (Great Buddha), Komachi-dori (famous shopping street), 🌊 nearby beaches
● Breakfast: Cafe Yoridokoro (🚋 views)
● The Sunrise Shack (🌊 views)
●🍦Kannon Coffee (Buddha parfaits)
● Tomoya Kamakurakomachi(Buddha cakes)
● Dinner: 🍜 Matsubara-an(soba noodles)
# DAY 5 (11/21) – TOKYO
Hotel: Tokyo EDITION
🗼Tokyo Tower, Underground Parking Stairs (expect queues past 7:00 AM though) and possibly Shiba Park (popular 📷 photo spots for 🗼); Sumida City: Tokyo Sky Tree (exploring the surrounding area as opposed to going inside); Asakusa: 🏮Sensō-ji (Buddhist temple); 💆 Tokyo EDITION Spa (possibly). Note: Ship bags to KAI Sengokuhara prior to checking out of Tokyo EDITION.
● Breakfast (in bed): 🍱 Tokyo EDITION
● 🍙 Asakusa Unana (unagi onigiri)
● Chacha Futatsume (🍵 Mont Blanc)
● Dinner: The Blue Room (international cuisine at Tokyo EDITION)
# DAY 6 (11/22) – MT. FUJI
Airbnb: The Roof 1889
Fujikawaguchiko: Kawaguchiko Tenjozan Park via Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (¥900 roundtrip), Oishi Park (superb lake views and iconic red bushes), Fuji Kawaguchiko Autumn Leaves Festival and 🍁Momiji Corridor (take the red 🚌 to Itchiku Kubota Art Museum), 🍁Momiji Tunnel (take the red 🚌 to Kawaguchiko Natural Living Center and then walk 15m), possibly ⛩️ Kawaguchi Asama Shrine (take the red 🚌 to Kawaguchi Post Office and then walk 30m), LAWSON Kawaguchiko Station (popular 📷 photo spot, 6m walk from Airbnb)
● Lunch: Autumn Leaves Festival
● Dinner: 🍣 Shaw’s Sushi Bar & Dining (or other options, all within walking distance of Airbnb)
# DAY 7 (11/23) – MT. FUJI & HAKONE
Hotel/Onsen: KAI Sengokuhara
Fujiyoshida: 🍁Chureito Pagoda (pagoda with Mt. Fuji in the background) (via the 🚈 Fujikyu Railway Line, from Kawaguchiko Station to Shimoyoshida Station) at sunriseHakone: Narukawa Art Museum (¥1,500, tickets purchased upon arrival), ⛩️ Heiwa no Torii, 🍁Sanno Shrine; 💆 shiatsu (massage) at onsen (¥9,350). Note: We will likely use Go Taxi, Didi, Uber, or similar apps to get around Hakone. We may also want to book a ride to Mishima Station the night before checking out. KAI Sengokuhara should be able to help with this.
● 🥐 Bakery & Table Hakone (lake views)
● Dinner: 🍱 KAI Sengokuhara
# DAY 8 (11/24) – HAKONE & KYOTO
Hotel: Hotel Resol Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo
Hakone: Late checkout at hotel (12:00 PM)
Kyoto: Kyoto Station, Sannen-Zaka Path (Yasaka Pagoda/Hōkan-ji Temple iconic view) and Kiyomizu‑dera Temple (special night viewing)
● Breakfast (in bed): 🍱 KAI Sengokuhara
● 🍵 % ARABICA Kyoto Higashiyama
● Dinner: Monk (wood-fired pizzas & more)
# DAY 9 (11/25) – OTSU & KYOTO
Hotel: Hotel Resol Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo
Otsu: 🍁Former Chikurin-in Temple (旧竹林院) (Rurikō-in alternative, ¥330, RSVNs N/A)
Kyoto: Tōjiin-Ritsumeikan University Station (📷 photo spot for 🚋), 🍁Eikan-dō (Zenrin-ji) Temple (¥1,000, RSVNs N/A), 🦊 Maison Kitsuné – Kyoto ShinPuhKan (shopping)
● Dinner: 🍣 Ninenzaka Sushi Numoto
# DAY 10 (11/26) – KYOTO
Hotel: Hotel Resol Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo
🍁Enkō-ji Temple\* (¥500, at 8:00 AM), 🍁Shisen-dō (¥500, RSVNs N/A, 5m walk from Enkō-ji, p. 178 from “The Japanese Garden,” features beautiful zen gardens), 🍁Kennin-ji (¥600, RSVNs N/A, p. 168 from “The Japanese Garden,” features beautiful zen gardens) (see also Kennin-ji Ryosoku-in))
● Breakfast: Hyotei Kyoto
● 🍵 Kumonocha (☁️-shaped desserts)
● 🦊 Café Kitsuné Kyoto ShinPuhKan
● Dinner: Kacto (American)
# DAY 11 (11/27) – ARASHIYAMA
Hotel: Hotel Resol Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo
Arashiyama/Sagano Bamboo Grove at sunrise, 🍁Somekobo Yumeyusai\* (¥2,000, at 8:00 AM), 🍁Jojakko-ji Temple (¥500, RSVNs N/A, lush autumn foilage), Saga Toriimoto (historic neighborhood), 🍁Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple (¥500, RSVNs N/A, less crowded bamboo grove), 🍁Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple (¥500, RSVNs N/A, 1,200 miniature Rakan Buddhist statues), Hozugawa River. Note: Most locations are within relative walking distance of one another.
● 🍵 % ARABICA Kyoto Arashiyama
● Lunch: MUNI LA TERRASSE (French)
● Dinner: TBD
# DAY 12 (11/28) – KYOTO
Hotel: Hotel Resol Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo
Sannen-Zaka Path (popular 📷 photo spot for Yasaka Pagoda/Hōkan-ji Temple) at sunrise, ⛩️ Fushimi Inari Taisha (iconic shrine), 🥷Kyoto Samurai Experience\* (¥15,000, at 1:00 PM), DAMDAM (Japanese skincare brand/store), Kano River at sunset
● 🍵 Inari Saryo (matcha parfaits)
● Afternoon Tea: Ace Hotel Kyoto
● Dinner: 🍝 The Sodoh Higashiyama (Italian)
# DAY 13 (11/29) – NARA
Hotel: Setre Naramachi
Todai-ji Temple (¥600, RSVNs N/A, giant statues), Nara Park, 🍁Yoshikien Garden, Mt. Wakakusa at sunset
● Archaique (deer-shapped pastries)
● Mizuya Chaya (iconic teahouse)
● 🍡Nakatanidou (popular mochi shop)
● Dinner: Setre Naramachi
# DAY 14 (11/30) – OSAKA
Hotel: W Osaka
Osaka Station; Osaka neighborhoods:🗽Amerikamura, Shinsekai, Dotonbori; 🏯 Osaka Castle (possibly), Umeda Sky Building (¥1,500) at night
● Dinner: Oh.lala…(French restaurant at W Osaka)
# DAY 15 (12/1) – OSAKA
Hotel: W Osaka
⭐ Universal Studios Japan\* (¥26,700, includes 1 Day Studio Pass and Express Pass 7 with entry to SNW beginning at 10:30 AM), possibly 🐟 Osaka Aquarium afterwards (¥2,700)
● Lunch: USJ (Kinopi’s Cafe and/or Three Broomsticks)
● Dinner: Yakitori Torinakamae (yakitori)
# DAY 16 (12/2) – OSAKA & TOKYO
Hotel: Muji Hotel GinzaOsaka: Namba Yasaka Jinja (shrine shaped like a lion’s head)Tokyo (Ginza): Tokyo International Forum, Louis Vuitton Ginza Namiki, Maison Hermès (for the architecture, not shopping)
● Dinner: 🍣 Manten Sushi Marunouchi (omakase)
● 🥃 New York Bar (Park Hyatt Tokyo)
# DAY 17 (12/3) – TOKYO
Hotel: Muji Hotel Ginza
Aoyama: 21\_21 DESIGN SIGHT (¥1,400, opens at 10:00 AM), Ryogoku: Sumida Hokusai Museum (¥400, opens at 9:30 AM); 📖 The Waseda International House of Literature (The Haruki Murakami Library); possibly Toy Sapiens (Hot Toys Flagship Store)
● Dinner: 🍣 Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka Store (conveyer belt sushi)
# DAY 18 (12/4) – TOKYO (Depart)
# Questions
● Any tips for surviving a 14+ hour flight? My butt really starts to hurt after sitting for as little as two hours or so. Aside from stretching before the flight, regularly standing, taking short walks down the aisle, etc., does anyone have any tips for making the long flight as painless as possible?
● On a similar note, is anyone familiar with United? I’m curious whether their Premium Plus (PP) class is worth it. For the very minor increase in space it doesn’t seem like it but then I read accounts of how when they oversell PP they start bumping people to Polaris (AKA business class). I understand this probably rarely happens but I can still dream, right? In all seriousness, I would totally consider a $500+ upgrade to business class, just not the $4,800 listed on their website.
● Is there anything I’m missing? If it’s not in my initerary, then I probably haven’t thought about it. I’m worried that I may have overlooked something, I’m just not sure what exactly.
● Are there any dinning options I should consider either in lieu of or in addition to what I already have listed above?
● I’m still a little bummed about Rurikō-in being fully booked (with no apparent option to make in-person or same-day reservations). Having said that, Former Chikurin-in Temple (旧竹林院) looks like a very compelling alternative. Are there any other similar temples that I should consider?
● Any tips for minimizing jetlag and adjusting my sleep schedule prior to leaving? For some reason, I was going to bed by like 9:00 PM each night several weeks before I first went to Japan. Based on everything I’ve read, this is the opposite of what you’re supposed to do when flying west to east. Somehow though I had no jetlag when I arrived. I think this had to do with not sleeping well on the plane, being pretty tired by the time I arrived (early evening), and then going right to bed after checking into my hotel.
5 comments
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Hi!
This is not meant to be rude.
If you are staying at Kai Sengokuhara, I am unsure why you are taking a cab to Mishima and not to Odawara. Odawara is 20 km away and Mishima is 24. I would personally pick to take a taxi to whichever had a train coming at the earliest time you can catch one since both only get Hikari shinkansen once every 2 hours (at the most) I am unsure of when the trains stop at Mishima, but I know Odawara has Hikari about 8:00 am, 10:00 am and noon going to Kyoto. Odawara is about 40 minutes from Kai Sengokuhara and Mishima is closer to 50.
If you’re not using a Rail Pass, it might be faster and easier to go to Odawara and take the shinkansen to Shin-Yokohama and then catch a Nozomi to Kyoto. I have seen a few travel websites throw that out as the fastest method. I’m honestly surprised that the Kai doesn’t offer a shuttle service to Odawara or even to Gora Station.
I’d love to know how tea at the Ace Hotel is. I’ve done the dessert buffet at the Conrad Osaka, The Ritz Osaka, and an Afternoon Tea at the Strings Zelkova in Tokyo. We’re already planning to book some more for our next trip.
I get sciatica, so I tend to do butt squeezes on the flight and I also do leg lifts. Now that I am older, I’ve started using compression socks as well and I plan to get more. I tried two different brands last trip and really liked the nylon pair. I found they made my legs less achy and I would like to get a few more pairs for just wearing around Japan. (And yes, I’ve flown JFK to NRT, so 14 hours multiple times.)
I’ve flown United’s old Economy+ I don’t know about the newer Premium Plus offering unless it is the same thing. I find that modicum of extra space and being able to board the plane earlier worth it. I flew Delta+ in June to Japan, though I am back to regular economy on my next trip. Back when I had status on United and flew a lot, I did get an offer to pay $600 to move to Business Class, which I did, but I think it’s harder to do so now than it use to be. I did turn in miles once to upgrade to Business. It was awesome because I was flying Japan to CA to JFK and I got to fly First on the US leg.
I’ve never had lots of luck minimizing jet lag, but I usually just roll with it. If I am upfront, I usually like my jet lag, since it means I am up early and go to bed early, which works nicely for vacation. With most shopping centers closing between 8 and 9 pm, I don’t mind going to bed then. I also really like being up early because it makes it easier to get things done. As long as I am getting at least 6 hours of sleep, it’s all good to me.
I do find I am more likely to get my hotel breakfast early in the trip, so I tend to try to book it, because I don’t always want to go out and search something down at like 7:00 am.
Good luck!
[The ginkgo tree-lined avenue at Meiji Jingu Gaien](https://maps.app.goo.gl/yv2SHGuRNxFtr1Uy9) is quite lovely at this time of year. If you’re heading to the Aoyama area, it’s worth extending your visit. Also, while you’re in Japan, be sure to try ginkgo nuts. They are often served at izakayas and other places after being deep-fried.
Just checking that you know that Shiro Hige is at least 22 minutes on the train (or about an hour and a quarter walk) away from Shibuya/Shinjuku in Setagaya/Shimo-Kitazawa?
nice to see a fellow kitsune maison fan. thats one very packed and organised schedule though, dont be afraid to be flexible, my first trip was rigorously organised like that but on subsequent trips i went the exact opposite direction
the only hotel i booked in advance was my first night, i have a lot of ideas of places to go and things to see but rather than specifically plan i just let various factors help me decide, weather, how im feeling, who im with etc. you may often find various things you hadnt thought of before going, having the freedom and flexibility of no schedule can lead you to some interesting discoveries youd never have normally done
this trip i havent even booked my first night in a hotel, just a flight and a JR pass