**Intro/info**:
Early October 2023. Second time visiting Japan, last time was in 2019. In Tokyo we were with 3 friends who also came, for Jozankei and Sapporo it was just my wife and I. We used Ubigi eSims for data and had no issues with it (iPhone/Pixel), had 5G coverage basically everywhere. We flew direct from LAX->NRT via Singapore Airlines which was pretty nice. Skipped the Welcome Suica upon arrival as I added it to my Apple Wallet (note: I could only add funds with a mastercard, visa wouldn’t work) and my wife used the physical Suica card from our last trip (which also work fine for the subway in Sapporo).
**Tokyo**:
We stayed at the APA Hotel near Shinjuku-gyoemmae station. Our room was pretty small for two people + luggage but it was fine enough. Elevators got really crowded at times and required waiting ~5m occasionally as there wasn’t a staircase to use. The area was nice though, lots to do/see/eat and well connected via the metro.
Day 1: We arrived in the evening and couldn’t sleep on the flight over because of a crying infant, we were dead tired. We took the Narita Express to Tokyo station, transferred to the subway to get to our hotel. Checked in and got some ramen nearby at [Ramen Kurouzu](https://maps.app.goo.gl/hdvRhyC7RXq7SfJQA) which hit the spot then went to sleep.
Day 2: Japanese breakfast at [Yayoiken Shinjukukabukichoten](https://maps.app.goo.gl/sDhbtFfkqD2PWTDMA), then took a stroll around this area of Shinjuku. In the afternoon we went to Ginza and saw the [Art Aquarium Museum](https://maps.app.goo.gl/YJkbt1BGSzKGMnsw7) which was a fun way to spend some time, then checked out some of the shopping centers. Got lunch at this soba restaurant [なぜ蕎麦にラー油を入れるのか。秋葉原店](https://maps.app.goo.gl/pMNPg5ABC3SGQ2Ca8) which was insanely delicious and checked out the Aki-Oka Artisan shopping area and the Ameyoko Shopping District in Akihabara. Friends arrived so we met up with them and strolled around for a bit and stopped to eat / get some drinks at this izakaya [じょうきげん](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Sfs1VXcJNzy4PW6B8) back near our hotel. Food was great, our waiter was super friendly. Recommended.
Day 3: More Japanese breakfast at [Shinpachi Shokudo Seibu Shinjuku branch](https://maps.app.goo.gl/MVymvGKkTBFsrGk49) which was even better than the previous one. Went to some gatchapon / crane game spots afterwards and got taiyaki at a street stall for a snack. Friends wanted to go to Muji/some shops so we did that then made our way to Koto City area for teamLab Planets via bus. We did teamLab borderless the last time and while there were a few similarities it was pretty different and a lot of fun. I got a bit motion sick in the domed room though so I had to pass through there pretty quickly. Went to [Ginza Kagari](https://maps.app.goo.gl/FTbaMDk7AgAMjvvj7) for dinner, which was so good last time it was the only place I wanted to go back to that I’d been to before. Waited about 30-40 minutes for a seat around 5:30ish PM, just as good as I remembered it being. Headed back to the hotel to change/get ready, in the evening we went to WOMB nightclub in Shibuya. It was a lot of fun, lots of space and good lights. Saw a DJ we liked and some of the local DJs downstairs were really good too. Caveat being there were a couple creepy foreign guys in the main floor that the girls in our group felt uncomfortable around, so we would change spots if they came near and kept an eye out. Afterwards we went down the street to get a kebab and soak in the drunken/hilarious glory of Shibuya at 3AM on the weekend.
Day 4: Woke up late, went to get lunch at [Craft Curry Brothers](https://maps.app.goo.gl/wuABbP1Lt3Lyu3wG8). Tucked away on some back streets in a residential neighborhood, it’s a tiny place that only has a few seats but the curry was amazing. Got an espresso at [Brewman Tokyo](https://maps.app.goo.gl/WUPuVNdwqquEsJ5bA) next door which was legitimately the best coffee I’ve ever had in my life. Took a brief rest back at the hotel then went to Harajuku Moe Cat Street where there were a bunch of good vintage shops. For dinner we went back to the Shinjuku station area and had Yakiniku beef [here](https://maps.app.goo.gl/JeNUSuvK6gJDnkfV7) which was so good. We got a private room and the cost was only around ~$75 US per person for 7-8 courses and dessert.
Day 5: Weren’t that hungry for breakfast, got something quick from a kombini. This day was rainy, strolled leisurely around Shinjuku and got sushi for lunch [here](https://maps.app.goo.gl/1HHwvVWWcBikK15P8). Split up from friends and wife and I went to Daikan-yama which I loved as an area. Cool shops, coffee shops, very relaxed vibe. Went to a great vintage store called Carboots and met an awesome guy who was the owner of a menswear shop I stopped into called [EDO B&S](https://maps.app.goo.gl/zNQLx2vVEPmgfSqB7) (shoutout Hamid!). We chatted for a while and I mentioned I was going to go to a doctor after as I was having an annoying skin issue (more later) and he went above and beyond, called doctors in the area for us and even saying he would accompany us so he could explain the issue in Japanese to the doctor. I found one near the hotel but it was closed once we arrived. Met up with friends again for dinner to get udon at [Kirimugiya Jinroku](https://maps.app.goo.gl/2noV9B3NUbnuCAW7A) which was fantastic. Went to this [jazz bar](https://maps.app.goo.gl/EFn8avfxDRY4M8PVA) and had a few drinks while listening to a group play who were great, then went to [record bar analog](https://maps.app.goo.gl/YqDVhq4bcr1Uyb9PA) to chill and listen to some music while sipping on cocktails.
**Jozankei / Sapporo**:
Day 6: Checked out, train to Haneda airport for flight to New Chitose CTS airport in Hokkaido. After arriving took the train to Sapporo station and took the taxi I pre-booked to take us to Jozankei Onsen. We stayed at Hana Momiji here and it may have been my favorite part of the trip, such a fun experience. After checking in we went down to the dining area of the hotel for the dinner which we’d purchased along with the room. The food was truly spectacular, a big spread of meat, seafood, vegetables, soup and presented beautifully. After dinner we strolled around the night light area that was set up in nearby Jozankeifutami Park, very pretty and peaceful. We’d reserved a private bath on the rooftop floor for 1h that evening which was so relaxing and wonderful I didn’t want to leave. Afterwards, as is tradition (?) we went downstairs and got soft serve ice cream and a pocari sweat / lemon drink (forgetting the name) and hit the ping pong room for a while before deciding to call it an earlier night and get a good sleep.
Day 7: I slept in a while, my wife woke up early and hit the public bathhouse for a while before getting breakfast at the hotel (buffet style, Japanese and western offerings) and eventually checking out. We were able to keep our luggage there while we explored the town. Soaked our feet in the hot spring water nearby, got ramen at an old little restaurant for lunch and got an apple pie for dessert. Got our stuff and boarded the bus (pre-booked) right outside the hotel to take us back to Sapporo. Checked into our hotel – Hotel Wing Sapporo – which was spacious and new feeling. Very nice inside, would recommend it. Found a dermatologist nearby who was open and visited for the skin issue/rash I was having as it wasn’t getting better. Filled out some forms and waited about 10 minutes to be seen, the doctor was very nice spoke a bit of english and I supplemented with Google Translate when needed. He prescribed me an ointment which I went across the street and picked up at a pharmacy. Paid maybe ~$35 for the visit and the prescription without any type of insurance (in the US if only…). Walked around Tanukikoji Shopping Street which was pretty fun, stopped and got a snack at a bar inside. Got cold so we went back to the hotel to get some warmer clothes, then went to [Yohachi Jingisukan](https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g298560-d26360123-Reviews-Jingisukan_Yohachi-Sapporo_Hokkaido.html) for grilled lamb for dinner. Was the first time I’d had Jingisukan bbq and really enjoyed it. The meat was flavorful and tender, you get to choose veggies to grill up as well. After dinner we walked around central Sapporo for a while to digest and called it a night.
Day 8: Went to a dry cleaners nearby to get some clothing washed, the couple who owned it were so kind and helpful. Went to the Nijo fish market and got some sushi for lunch. Got another amazing coffee nearby then took the subway to the western edge of the city and saw Sapporo City Maruyama Zoo. Not the best zoo I’ve ever been to but it was ~$5US for admission and we still enjoyed it. Watching a penguin feeding was the highlight for me. For dinner #1 we got butadon here [豚丼まむろ](https://maps.app.goo.gl/bhswYKTZunqkAFfH9) which was yummy. Went to the area around the Sapporo TV tower to explore, found some shops to check out. Tried to do the nORIA ferris wheel but they didn’t take card for tickets and we didn’t want to withdraw more cash since it was our last night. For dinner #2 we went to ramen alley and picked a spot that didn’t have a wait as they all looked pretty good – it was fantastic Sapporo style miso ramen with butter, corn, big slabs of charsiu, perfectly soft egg. Great meal to close out the trip.
Day 9: Quick kombini breakfast, checked out of hotel, took the airport bus back to CTS airport and departed.
Overall it was an incredible trip, really hard to think of any negatives aside from the rash I got. Weather was mostly nice and only had 1-2 days of rain. Last time we did Osaka after Tokyo with daytrips to Nara and Kyoto, I liked Osaka more than Sapporo but the experience in Jozankei made up for that and some. Can’t wait to go back someday and check out some more places around the country.