itinerary notes after 3 months in japan (Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Wakayama, Hiroshima, Fukuoka & more)

i’ll clean this up a bit later, but i’ve been sharing with friends and figured I would throw this up here too as i’ve seen a lot of threads about Tokyo – Kyoto – Osaka itineraries and thought I could help based on my experience the last 3 months here in these places.

My itinerary from September to end of November was:
Tokyo → Wakayama (Kumano Kodo pilgrimage hike) → Tokyo → Fuji → Kyoto → Osaka / Kobe → Kyoto → Naoshima / Teshima → Takamatsu → Imabari → Shimanami Kaido bicycle to Onomichi → Hiroshima → Fukuoka … then onwards to Taipei.

My general advice is to try to take it slow and to get off the beaten path. The most memorable and beautiful moments in Japan were not going to any of the “must hit” places or instagram-saved spots, but stumbling across a small shop, restaurant, or catching the smile of a stranger and starting a conversation. A lot of the time in nature was special too. It’s a place with a lot of beauty and tranquility, hidden gems, curious scenes and spiritual places, that i feel rewards the observer and those paying attention to details. Using translation for the wholesome street signs and small things like this that really captured me.

I should also note i’m traveling alone, and fortunate to be working part time remotely which is why i could maximize my time moving a bit more slowly.

Also, I don’t know any Japanese but now some basic stuff. Not necessary, but i also wouldn’t recommend immediately going to translator apps or approaching people in English. Always ask first, or try with hand signals or reading japanese translation, etc., based on the situation. Effort always is appreciated and it’s never nice to make someone feel comfortable. I found the japanese incredibly humble, helpful, attentive and respectful with regards to your needs, space, and time in their country. Move with peace and smiles, open eyes and heart, and many doors will open up for you.

Accommodation wise, I stayed in mostly hostels and sharehouses, a few airbnb, with sharehouses run by locals my favorite option. hostels just attract too many short-term and foreign/budget travelers checking places off their lists (a lot of thoughts on this), and Airbnb/hotel feels slightly disconnected. i found sharehouses a good mix of the experiences i personally wanted as a solo traveler. Also shop around with booking and agoda, and don’t be afraid to cancel and move around your options – paying a few extra euros for flexibility i found to be well-worth it.

**GENERAL / TRANSIT**

**Durations**: try for at least 4-5 days in Kyoto as i preferred the city and it’s vibe + nature, and the longest in Tokyo, 5-10 days even would be tough to see a lot, it’s massive. Osaka is bigger than kyoto but i thought it slightly less interesting (which feels impossible to say about anything in japan) and would recommend at least 3-4 days given the warmth of the people and the HUGE selections and variety of food options. 2+ weeks or a month is a huge luxury if you can afford it, and you will really being to feel welcomed as a regular if you frequent nearby shops or restaurants.

[**Suica**](https://apps.apple.com/us/app/suica/id1156875272) if you have an AMEX, the only int’l card that can load this IC- transit card, def download this app to Apple Wallet, or go to a convenience to buy a prefilled one. Suica or Pasmo.

It’s used in all train stations, convenience stores and beyond, and super simplifies checking out everywhere that takes it.

Tokyo is mostly cashless depending, obv not for streetfood and small restaurants or bars, Kyoto and Osaka vary. So bring a lot of ¥ or plan on knowing your debit card or credit cash advance situation.

**JR PASS**: I didn’t buy JR pass because i’m here for longer, but do the math for each train or shinkansen youll take. Most likely it’s cheaper for you to buy the tickets individually than getting the pass, and the slow trains are super beautiful so i recommend those options (Google maps works great for transit itineraries)

Also buses and overnight buses are super convenient and easy to find, usually 50% or less of the shinkansen prices

**TOKYOOOOO**

Stayed at UNPLAN Shinjuku which i ended up canceling later on. Millennials Shibuya (at a discounted rate on Agoda), a sharehouse in Shinjuku, and Nui hostel in Asakusa. I enjoyed Nui, but in the future I would likely stay somewhere more local like Kichijoji or Sengawa, Meguro, Ebisu, etc… i found Shinjuku is like Times Sq and a bit crazy. Shibuya and Harajuku are younger, hip and shopping areas, you’ll find cool places but it’s a specific experience. All about how much time you have and what you’re looking for.

🌹 Shinjuku Gyoen over Shibuya’s Yoyogi park (not sure about in Dec season though) – Yoyogi is nice place to run.

🏋️‍♂️ Fitness people, check out the Shibuya Metropolitan gym where you can workout or swim for like 600 ¥ a visit. Also another in Asakusa and a general hack for japan gyms instead of overpaying for Golds Gym or whatever.

👕 Shimokitazawa: thrift and hipstercentral, worth walking around, trendy and crowded, sometimes cool festivals, and nice Japanese curry places

🏠 Kichijōji, Sangenjaya, Setagaya, Sengawa – very livable places albeit bit on the outskirts but more “everyday” tokyo, and easy to get into center on train – cute areas, the whole Ebisu, Meguro (eat at Tonki tonkatsu if you go here!)

🎤 Friday nights is Kpop night at Kabukicho towers restaurant and was super fun to watch, like 8-10pm or something

🎍 Nezu Museum has cool exhibits and a beautiful backyard

🤯 Teamlab was cool! could combine with the old Toyosu market (i didn’t go there)

I didn’t do Tokyo tower or Skytree, i think they’re both $30+ and would probably take some time to do them. I did do Shibuya Sky and it was fine, nice view.

🚲 Hello Cycling is a great app here, and in Kyoto.

💪 gym hack if it matters to you: municipal gyms are public and usually about 300-700 ¥ per visit (2 hour max) and has everything you need. For example – Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium in Shibuya.

🚕 Keep in mind taxis are super expensive and last train is around 11.45 or midnight, otherwise you’re sleeping on the street hahaha

Tokyo museums to check out that usually sell out immediately, i didn’t get to go to any:

[Ghibli museum \(goes on sale i think 10th of the month\)](https://www.ghibli-museum.jp/en/tickets/)

[Yayoi Kusama \(goes on sale the first of the month\)](https://yayoikusamamuseum.jp/en/visit/information/)

[The making of Harry potter](https://tickets.wbstudiotour.jp/webstore/shop/viewitems.aspx?cg=WBSTT01&C=wbstt02)

**KAMAKURA & ENOSHIMA**

Go early! 6am ish.

Day trip from Tokyo. Easily accessible from Asakusa.

Would surf next time in Kamakura, easy to get rentals and nice small beginner waves.

*YOKOHAMA**

Included in day trip from Tokyo.

Super nice stop for a few hours to walk the waterside and eat in Chinatown.

**WAKAYAMA / KUMANO KODO**

Mid-September.
Took flight from Tokyo to Tanabe, hiked to Katsuura, train back to Tanabe and fly back to Tokyo. Might be easier if you started in Osaka but i was meeting a friend and went on my first days in Japan. Incredible experience overall. Stayed 1 night Tanabe, started hiking, 4 nights, then 1 night in Katsuura, back to Tanabe for 1 night and fly Tokyo.

Tanabe i tried eating whale meat, and had sake and umeshu with locals. Best restaurant was a grandparents-run small tempura spot.

Katsuura has a tuna auction every morning, was there around 7/8am, very cool to see.

**FUJIKAWAGUCHIKO**

Bus from Shinjuku, super easy. Walk from station to K’s House where i stayed.

Hiked Yoshida trail even though mountain was closed for the season. 20-30 other climbers. Very limited bus schedules. Even first week of October was very cold at the top, wouldn’t recommend without proper gear after October.

Had about 6 hours because of buses and ran all the way back down to make it just in time.

I recommend renting a bike to get over to the pagoda and other sites.

My favorite day was going out to the Aokigahara forest for a walk. It was magical.

Also the Lawson’s isn’t as cool in person unless you have a badass camera, it’s super overrun with tourists. I can’t imagine what this area is like in peak season. 🙁

Then i took an express bus from the station to Mishima to catch shinkansen to Kyoto. you can also go thru Nagoya.

**KYOTOOOO**

i heard some people with shorter itineraries feeling “shrined-out” very quickly, or stuck in crowded buses in transit getting to places that are the “must visits” … so i’d recommend leaving early in the mornings like 6/7am, or to plan for some things away from the center center as Sannenzaka for example, for me, was really crowded, and i didn’t see much the appeal. Same for Kiyomizu-dera.

🚃 the Kifune Shrine and Kurama-dera hike (optional) were one of my favorite days. Beautiful small train out to the area and maybe not as overcrowded depending on day and time.

⛩️ Fushimi Inari: i recommend the Vermillion Cafe for a matcha outside on the back patio. Also the shrine is open 24 hours and i saw 3-4 boars when i went at night around 11pm and almost no one was there. Eerie and mysterious, if you have the time and energy. Early morning or late night photography here will be sick.

🍡To-ji temple has a flea market 21st of each month.
🍡 Kitano Tenmangu Shrine has flea market 25th of the month.

👕 Random but i highly recommend the Zaccabacker thrift store from noon-4pm as they have 100 ¥ for all kinds of stuff. Wild scene and can find nice shoes, bags, clothes, but a bit out of the way.

👘 I do wish i had rented a kimono for 2-3 hours for some pictures but i was alone and shy. but it’s totally acceptable there – and rather than rent you can find some super cheap ones at thrift or markets around town instead to keep it, or hand it off to someone after the trip.

👣 You might also consider walking the “Philosphers Path” that hits a few shrines a bit more off the beaten path.

🤤 One thing you have to do is go to the Yatsuhashi stores and get several packets of the mochi sheets, i liked the cinnamon and matcha flavors the most. They are incredible and could make for great gifts too — only found in Kyoto.

😻 ☕️ mogamoga was a hidden gem small wholesome cafe in a family house that has cats. lots of cute places like this in kyoto if you wander around. i would also recommend nama chocolate too. 🙂

🌇 Definitely walk on the Kamogawa to the Kamogawa Delta point. it’s beautiful in the morning and sunset – great place to run.

🥐 RAU Cafe has some insane pastries if that’s your thing. Expensive but most beautiful i’ve ever seen.

🍄 the botanical garden was really nice and they have a light show in the winter now! i did not personally go to the imperial palace nor the Nijo castle.

🏠 I stayed at Gojo guest house and would stay there again. Also met a woman and stayed in her house, if you want i can try to intro (2500 ¥ per night ish)

**OSAKAAAA**

🌳 teamLab in the outdoors park was nice (dont think you need ticket in advance, don’t worry) https://www.teamlab.art/e/botanicalgarden/

🦦 Osaka NIFREL aquarium looks cool, didn’t go

🌿 Minoh for foilage and Katsuo-ji temple

🏃‍♀️ i really enjoyed to run along Yodogawa River along the bridges and the recreation areas on a sunny weekend day, lots of sports and families around.

🥐 I stayed near Temma station, away from the busy Dotombori chaos, and this was nice bakery – bread, espresso (https://maps.app.goo.gl/d96byot6U1SmdEJA8)

🍣 Nice local sushi in Temma area too: https://maps.app.goo.gl/y2ykXtBZyamqmrLb7

😻 Small animal cafe in Namba, the more central area by Dotombori if you stay here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/X7yi8QmsYp4qDdJz9

🥞 Micasadeco&Cafe is where you can go to get the souffle pancakes, oishiii! https://maps.app.goo.gl/UwtxRtJQwHtHbbH86

🤤 of course, eat the Okonomiyaki anywhere. it’s so good.

🍻 old building transformed into shops and bars, [Misono](https://www.arrivalguides.com/en/Travelguide/Osaka/barsandnightlife/misono-building-120900), if it’s open

I don’t recommend much the Dotomburi area, it’s too touristy. I think you will have no problem finding cool places 😀

**KOBE**

🥐 the best bakery i went to in Japan was in Kobe- called Riki. I highly recommend (https://maps.app.goo.gl/onucBeFGmgXXg6uK6)

Kobe is cute with Ikuta Jinja shrine and a nice small walk up Suwayama park to Venus bridge. good for 1/2 day trip maybe. 😀

**NAOSHIMA / TESHIMA**

Highly recommend Shimacoya hostel, Masa and Saku are amazing hosts with a beautiful fig farm. Spent two nights which was great to take it slow, go to some museums and beaches.

Teshima art museum was mesmorizing. Don’t take the bus, rent an electric cycle. Spent about 5 hours total on the island.

Place for sea lovers was a reallly nice beach, i saw a stingray jumping.

Then i took ferry from Teshima to Takamatsu for 1 night.

**TAKAMATSU**

Great udon and the Ritsurin garden was one of my favorites in Japan.

**SHIMANANI KAIDO: IMABARI → ONOMICHI**

Took train from Takamatsu to Imabari.

Could still swim in early November. Slept in Imabari, rented from i.i.i.imabari cycle station (make reservation in advance!) – about 6000 ¥ for 2 day rental of a nice Canondale, dropped off at Onomichi station.

Slept in Setoda. Really wonderful experience and I don’t recommend to do it in one day. It’s not a race.

Ended in Onomichi and took train to hiroshima.

**HIROSHIMAAAA**

I spent 10 days here.
Peace Park Museum.

Miyajima was a highlight.

Windfall Cafe.

Koba bar.

**FUKUOKAAAA**

I also spent about 10 days here. Stayed near Hakozakimiya-Mae Station and it’s a nice 15 min subway or bike ride into town.

Ferry out to Uminonakamichi Seaside Park and played Putt putt and disc golf is available here. Nice way to spend 4-5 hours.

Ohori Park, Japanese garden, and &locals cafe for imari sushi and a matcha. Also a great loop to run! they have pull up bars here.

Dazaifu

Some things i didn’t get to do but would recommend:
* Itoshima and Keya no Ohto cave area
* Kayasan for hiking
* Yamaguchi and Tsunoshima areas
* Nagasaki
* Kagoshima

Saw Sumo wrestling. — *for anyone looking for sumo, take note of [2024 sales dates](https://sumo.pia.jp/en/) coming up, as they sell out very fast. dec 9 2023 for january 2024 in tokyo … feb 10 for march in osaka … april 6 for may in tokyo … aug 10 for september in tokyo etc.*

Comment if you have any questions