like for nuts. and bolts. Something like PB blaster. I have tried Kure’s freeze lube and it worked very well in one situation, not so well in my current situation.
I don’t know much about local brands, but they sell WD-40 at my home center and it works just like what I remember state side.
LS Bell hammer is supposed to be the strongest one, but it costs like 3000 yen per can so never tried it. I use 5-56 DX (better than regular 5-56) and Regulus Rust blizzard depending on the situation. If none of those work I just use a small gas torch. Try soaking it several times for a couple of days if you can’t/don’t want to use a torch.
Working on your car?
If you have room, I recommend a breaker bar. I also used Kure penetrating freeze lube on a stubborn bolt, but it wouldn’t budge. The breaker bar worked on the first try…although I got the wrong head size (got 12.7mm [1/2″] instead of 9.5mm [3/8″]) so had to buy an extra socket.
Ugh…resisting the urge to be a 12 year old boy…
Well, I don’t like to brag butt… wait…
Kure 5-56 is essentially WD40. I use all the Kure product line, their brake cleaner is outstanding, so is their silicon and non-silicon lubes.
If Kure 5-56 applied every 15 minutes for a couple of hours doesn’t break it free use a small torch to heat it (assuming it’s not meltable/flammable or attached to something meltable/flammable). I generally use the ones they sell to light BBQs that use the little stove butane cans but if it’s small enough you could get one of the ones you plug a disposable lighter into.
Honest cheap best, ATF to diesel 50/50 mix.
Kure 5-56 works better than Freeze Lube most of the time.
If it’s a rust situation, hit it with sabitori (rust remover) to start, blast it with parts cleaner, then hit it with 5-56 afterwards. Keep alternating until success.
If it’s a heat seize situation, heat it up good and hot with a torch, then turn the torch off and apply 5-56, the cooling metal will draw the lubricant in.
If it’s a heat seize near a painted part, grab a cheap screwdriver, touch the metal end to your seized part, and then apply the torch flame to the shaft of the driver to heat the part up while protecting the paint.
**IMPORTANT: Since I’m mentioning parts cleaner and torches in the same post**
**Do not – EVER – hit a part that you’ve used parts cleaner on with a torch until ALL the cleaner has evaporated. If it’s a nut/bolt that you’re trying to unseize, the parts cleaner can be trapped inside the nooks and crannies and remain fluid for DAYS, so don’t mix the two methods.**
**Even the smallest amount of that stuff hits an open flame, you’ll be breathing highly toxic gas. Parts cleaner contains tetrachloroethylene, and if heated past 300 or so degrees, the combustion product is phosgene. Deadly in concentrations as low as 4 ppm. Even if the stuff doesn’t kill you, the stuff can cause lifelong chronic bronchitis.**
9 comments
Wakos Ruspene
I don’t know much about local brands, but they sell WD-40 at my home center and it works just like what I remember state side.
LS Bell hammer is supposed to be the strongest one, but it costs like 3000 yen per can so never tried it. I use 5-56 DX (better than regular 5-56) and Regulus Rust blizzard depending on the situation. If none of those work I just use a small gas torch. Try soaking it several times for a couple of days if you can’t/don’t want to use a torch.
Working on your car?
If you have room, I recommend a breaker bar. I also used Kure penetrating freeze lube on a stubborn bolt, but it wouldn’t budge. The breaker bar worked on the first try…although I got the wrong head size (got 12.7mm [1/2″] instead of 9.5mm [3/8″]) so had to buy an extra socket.
Ugh…resisting the urge to be a 12 year old boy…
Well, I don’t like to brag butt… wait…
Kure 5-56 is essentially WD40. I use all the Kure product line, their brake cleaner is outstanding, so is their silicon and non-silicon lubes.
If Kure 5-56 applied every 15 minutes for a couple of hours doesn’t break it free use a small torch to heat it (assuming it’s not meltable/flammable or attached to something meltable/flammable). I generally use the ones they sell to light BBQs that use the little stove butane cans but if it’s small enough you could get one of the ones you plug a disposable lighter into.
Honest cheap best, ATF to diesel 50/50 mix.
Kure 5-56 works better than Freeze Lube most of the time.
If it’s a rust situation, hit it with sabitori (rust remover) to start, blast it with parts cleaner, then hit it with 5-56 afterwards. Keep alternating until success.
If it’s a heat seize situation, heat it up good and hot with a torch, then turn the torch off and apply 5-56, the cooling metal will draw the lubricant in.
If it’s a heat seize near a painted part, grab a cheap screwdriver, touch the metal end to your seized part, and then apply the torch flame to the shaft of the driver to heat the part up while protecting the paint.
**IMPORTANT: Since I’m mentioning parts cleaner and torches in the same post**
**Do not – EVER – hit a part that you’ve used parts cleaner on with a torch until ALL the cleaner has evaporated. If it’s a nut/bolt that you’re trying to unseize, the parts cleaner can be trapped inside the nooks and crannies and remain fluid for DAYS, so don’t mix the two methods.**
**Even the smallest amount of that stuff hits an open flame, you’ll be breathing highly toxic gas. Parts cleaner contains tetrachloroethylene, and if heated past 300 or so degrees, the combustion product is phosgene. Deadly in concentrations as low as 4 ppm. Even if the stuff doesn’t kill you, the stuff can cause lifelong chronic bronchitis.**
We use this at work. Unicon 411 nano
https://www.monotaro.com/p/4311/2458/?cq_med=pla&cq_plt=gp&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=246-833-4061_6466659573_shopping&utm_content=118200484700&utm_term=_496718128754_x_pla-1611564571426&utm_id=43112458&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3tO_n-fKggMVjG1gCh36BQbIEAkYAiABEgKhOvD_BwE