15 Days in Japan – Trip Report

This was an our second time in Japan. Our first was quite short and included Tokyo (stayed in Shinjuku) & Kyoto (stayed in Gion). We did quite a few highlights that time: Tokyo Tower, Meiji Shrine (go very early), Teamlab Planets, etc. I felt like this time we could take a slightly slower pace and do less touristy things (though we still did quite a few). Japan is so fun, you just kind of want to go, go, go.

**Days 1-7**: This time we stayed in Ueno, right next to Asakusa. This is a really nice area I think especially for families. The hotels are a little cheaper, the rooms a little larger, and the pace is a little slower, with lots of museums, parks, etc. to explore. Though I will say that by day 5 we were itching for a different area. This is also an easy spot to explore Akihabara.

We included:

Sensoji and Nakamise shopping street in Asakusa which was really fun as well as lots of great restaurant choices,

Akihabara (including a very nice cat cafe, not all are so clean, or healthy) was fun, but Akihabara is not as kid friendly (we have a teen and tween) in my opinion, but still fun for them. If you are near Akihabara in Chuo City is a place called Dawn Avatar Robot Cafe that was really special. It wasn’t far.

The Sky Tree, Ueno Park, The Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum. We enjoyed the restaurants more in Asakusa than Ueno (though in Ameyoko market we had some really good sushi at Miurmisaki Kou), and after a few days were kind of struggling, but I chock this up more to jet lag / exhaustion than restaurant choices.

We are avid cooks and went to Kappabashi street, and bought a new knife, chopsticks, and checked out the fun fake food shops, and had some really great coffee.

We also went to Disney for a day during this stretch. I am not a big Disney lover, and my older teen was hesitant, but we had so much fun. It was clean, not super crowded and we didn’t have to wait too much in lines. Maybe we lucked out! Pro Tip: the app stinks. Go on the website and download the map (edited: since I typed app accidentally) to your phone in your language. They don’t give maps at the park.

**Days 8-10**: Went to Hakone for 2 nights, and Kamakura for 1 night. Hakone was kind of a nightmare. The train was fine, but we bought the free pass (expensive), and most things (the ropeway, the pirate ship etc.) were closed due to high winds, and the Open Air Sculpture park only gave a discount with the pass. Though I do highly recommend the sculpture park for art lovers and families alike. We found Hakone to be over-packed, and the public transport overburdened and stressful. It was also quite expensive. Like, the most expensive stretch of our trip. However, I am so glad we chose a Ryokan, and our stay was beautiful, and peaceful. The onsen, and meals were one of the highlights of our trip. I personally don’t recommend Hakone just for the day. IMHO. 1-2 nights is sufficient.

Kamakura was an unexpected gem. A slower pace, cute shopping area, good food, and the beach. In fact we considered staying longer. Unfortunately, high wind and heavy rains blew in, and it wasn’t such a fun place at that point so we headed back to Tokyo. Sadly we didn’t get to see the giant buddha because it was dumping rain. Still, if you need to get away from the hubbub of Tokyo, it was quite pleasant!

**Days 11-15**: Stayed in Shinjuku, and knocked around there, Harajuku and Shibuya. This was just so much fun! We didn’t lack for food choices, and the site seeing was great. We went to see the new Godzilla movie at Toho Cinemas. Since we had been down Takeshita Street before in Harajuku we wandered further back, and there were so many great art galleries to explore, and great little cafes and small shops. But the kids of course loved Takeshita, getting a bubble tea, and enjoying the excitement. Some of my favorite shopping experiences were the bookstores, stationary shops, and electronics stores. Parco center in Shibuya (Nintendo, Capcom, Pokémon, etc.) was lots of fun. There is a decent food court in the basement. Shinjuku Marui Annex in Shinjuku is a lot of fun, it has the Godzilla store, Fewmany, some pop up markets, and the Cinnamoroll Cafe (which in my opinion had dreadful food, but the drinks were good, and it was quiet and my daughter enjoyed it.)

**Tidbits and tips:** We are much more confident on the trains, and while they can be intimidating, they are incredible and make getting around the city inexpensive (compared to Uber etc) and get you off your feet some. We walked so, so much! Wear good shoes. Also, the Apple Maps (if you have an iPhone) have awesome instructions, including for INSIDE Shinjuku Station, and will tell you what exits to walk through etc. It was immensely useful.

If you take an Uber or Taxi, don’t touch the door handle or talk loudly or at all (that is true of trains and elevators as well).

Remember to look up, and down. Stores, galleries, food courts, depachika, go all the way up to top floors and the basement.

Most shops open at 10 or 11:00, and a lot of cafes and coffee shops open later than you think. Konbinis are your friend. A fair bit of places are closed on Mondays. Check before you venture far.

It’s ok to take a break from Japanese food. I’ve read so many things that are like, just eat Japanese food, but halfway through we took a break and at a great Burger place, and a taco place just for fun and they were both really good.

Slow down. I know often it is a once in a lifetime adventure and you want to see and do everything, but you just can’t. Enjoy yourself, and allow yourself to take it in.

The Japanese people are so kind and helpful generally speaking. If you stop someone make sure you really need their help, because they will drop what they are doing and guide you or really make an effort to help. It’s so kind, but also I tried to ask for help only if I really needed it.

Lastly, a moment of soapbox. I felt pretty mortified when I witnessed tourists talking loudly and slowly, sometimes shouting in English at people in Japan, (or being very loud in general). We have spent a good deal of time learning about the culture, manners and learning some of the language (speaking and listening), but you can really get by with the following Japanese as a basic minimum effort: Hello, goodbye, please, thank you, excuse me, sorry, where is \_\_\_\_\_\_?, your numbers 1-10. It seems very basic manners. Often Japanese people have some English, but won’t necessarily use it. If you are willing to put yourself out there, be kind and polite, and sound like a kindergartener with your limited Japanese language skills, they will help you along, and maybe even make themselves vulnerable too with their English. I also got so much more from the experience chatting with people in my limited Japanese about their wares, or interests, or things they enjoy. The effort makes a richer travel experience!

That’s it. Sorry for the epic travel report. I hope someone gets something useful from it!