Questions about the logistics of doing the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

5 comments

1. Camping in winter would be very cold. There’s cold freezing rain and stretches of road where there isn’t a lot of cover. There aren’t a lot of public campsites, if any, that would be open in winter. Although you can camp at certain shrines (with permission, and they may not have room), and onsen, some michi-no-eki. etc. there are many spots with signs that explicitly say “NO CAMPING”, although they tend to only be in Japanese. Also, there are large stretches of just concrete walls by the seaside, roads with garbage dumped by the wayside. Many pilgrims take buses from stop to stop instead of walking the whole way, because to be honest, it’s not the most scenic or accommodating walking path. There are also a lot of stairs at many of the shrines.

2. There are a couple of very active and helpful Facebook groups about the pilgrimage – look for Shikoku 88 Ohenro Pilgrimage or Ohenro San お遍路さん　- people there will have all the resources and help you need.

3. Definitely think about joining the Facebook group! Lots of current updates on lodging and trail conditions.

   http://www.shikokuhenrotrail.com/index.html – this website is one of the best and most comprehensive sites about doing the trail and I recommend reading through all the sections, but the Facebook group will give more current updates. Also consider buying the route guide once your plans solidify – it’s also incredibly detailed and comprehensive. They update it and print a new edition every 5 years, I think, so i’d only buy it closer to when you plan to go. However, the website and book aren’t updated very frequently so the Facebook group is better for current information.

   If you’re hoping to camp, winter and summer will be difficult because the weather isn’t so good. Summers are awfully hot and humid with bugs and the possibility of heavy rains. Winters are cold, particularly in the mountains. When I did it, I started in early March and there was still bits of snow and ice heading up to temple 12 (one of the mountain temples).

   From what I hear, it’s still possible to camp but the pilgrimage is getting increasingly popular and locals are beginning to not like pilgrims camping out and there are varying opinions on it. Be aware of signs telling people not to stay overnight. If you’re not sure, ask a local. If you stay on/near someone’s property with their permission, they may or may not ask but it’s nice to offer something in return, like a bit of money or some food and drinks. Clean up after yourself and leave the place as if you were never there (I know this probably shouldn’t need to be said but sadly some henro huts now have signs that no sleeping overnight is allowed because of trash being left behind and bad behaviour).

   Paid lodgings tend to be nice but there are sections of the route where they’re very sparse and the few that are there get booked up fast, particularly in the high seasons (spring and fall). This was exacerbated by COVID and the prolonged closure of the Japanese border. A lot of the family-run lodgings closed as they weren’t getting any business during the pandemic. Maybe by the time you go, this will have improved, though. Just be willing to be flexible and aware of the fact that you may not be able to do the pilgrimage exactly how you imagined. Some henro have resorted to booking hotels in larger cities and then taking a bus or train back to where they left the trail.

   As for costs, I’ve only done the henro once but I can’t imagine how the costs would vary much depending on the season.

4. Most use buses now. Wouldn’t recommend walking the entire way if you’re new to Japan.

5. > it told me the total cost would amount to just over €4000, travel expenses included

   That a serious per person underestimate. While you can get daily food expenses to €25-30 per person on average, that leaves about €1000 for 70 days, if the above-figure included flights. That’s begpacking budget.

   Reality check, bare minimum for 70 days include:

   * 3,000 yen per diem for food expenses
   * 3,500-5,000 yen per diem for accommodations (even if you choose to camp, some days you will have to use minshukus/temple accommodation/sentos)
   * 800 yen per temple fees (some will be free, some no, as well as cost of goshuincho or pilgrimage stamps)
   * 30,000 yen cost of getting to/from sensible airport

   This means that you are at €3500 per pax for person, not including flights, travel insurance, mostly avoiding local specialties, visiting other points of interests. And that’s a barebones budget that does include cost of replacing clothing, gear etc.

   > going during the off seasons of either winter or summer

   Winter: some temples are inaccessible, some areas are below freezing.

   Summer: the law of probabilities say that you will get affected by at least 2-3 typhoon, multiple flash floods, landslides, subtropical heat and humidity, as well things that are poisonous will be out in force.