I flew in and out of Narita. Took the Keisei Skyliner from the airport to Ueno station, and the Narita Express heading back from Tokyo station. Stayed most nights at the Resol Uneo and was really happy with the place, but especially the location. Ueno is a big station that is not hard to find your way around and it was easy to get on a line going to just about anywhere I wanted. I can’t say the same for the hotel in Hanzomon. It was older, smaller, and there was not nearly as much nearby. Plus, starting any journey from Hanzomon station usually means that you are going to have to transfer before reaching your destination. Google maps was helpful though something I have not seen mentioned before is that it can be hard to tell if it is starting you at a train station or bus stop. That threw me off at first. The other thing I wish it would tell you is if there is anything ‘special’ about a train. One trip I got on the recommended car only to find that it was a gender segregated train and I was the only male in the women’s only car. Left the train at the next stop, which luckily was where I was headed.
Day 1 I arrived around 5 pm, got a ticket for the Skyliner and made it to the hotel. A few doors down the street was a building called Fundes where each floor had a different place to eat. I ended up eating at two of them over the next couple of days.
Day 2 Had a morning walk around Ueno park, then went over to Asakusa. I had bought a ticket for the Skytree for noon. First a visit to Kaminari-mon Gate and Sanso-Ji Temple area. Then took a pricey rickshaw ride around the area. Enjoyed Skytree, great views on a clear day.
Day 3 was a rain soaked packaged tour of Nagano. I had purchased this shinkansen round trip before the flight. Starting from Nagano station, the tour went to the 300-year-old Zenkoji temple. Next was Nishinomon Yoshinoya, a sake distillery founded in 1637 for a tasting, and a little education about sake. slightly tipsy we then had a hotpot lunch at Monzen Terrace Enya before the bus took us to the Snow Monkey Park. This was absolutely one of the highlights of the trip. The walk up the mountain to the hot spring has several spectacular views and the monkeys are entertaining.
Day 4 I spent visiting many of the one-off locations on my list. Took the first train down to Todoroki ravine park and the Todoroki Fudōson Temple. Sections were closed off, but it was still a nice place for a morning walk. Most of the other people in the park would saying good morning as we passed. Once out of the park and walking down the street I had one old woman hiss at me! A quick breakfast at a Doutor and then to Takadanobaba Station. I’m old enough to have watched the original Astro-Boy on TV so it was fun hearing the theme song at this station and going down to see the large mural dedicated to the show. Next was Hie Shrine in Chiyoda and the stairs of tori gates. This was a Saturday, and there were several weddings and christenings going on at the temple complex. The final stop was the Godzilla statue in Ginza before heading back to Ueno for some shopping. Outside of the Keisei Ueno station mall I came across a shop that was putting up their noren with a small crowd lined up to get in. I hopped in line before asking the kids in front of me what we were lining up for. I was told that this was the best soba in Tokyo. It was excellent, and I cannot remember the name of the place or find it on G-maps. After a short nap and more shopping, dinner was at Sushiro in Ueno. It was all tasty, plentiful, and cheap.
Day 5 was cut a little short by a cold that came on and slowed me down. Went down to Kamakura and visited the gravesite of Akira Kurosawa before a great lunch at Kamakura Misui that included the local whitebait fish. If I had taken a bus or a cab over to the giant Buddha I might have had enough energy to visit some other places. The walk from the station to the temple, and then the Buddha wiped me out. I did get me first ‘jozudesu’ on my Japanese this day.
Day 6 was a trip down the Izu peninsula for a ryokan stay in Izu-Atagawa. The gentleman who sold me my train tickets for the trip really set me up! I had the Fuji side on the train down to Atami, and the ocean side on the train to Izu-Atagawa. Went all-out for this night with a multi course dinner and breakfast. Learned how to wear a Yakata, and took several baths in my private hot spring. The sunrise from the balcony looking out toward Oshima island was spectacular!
Day 7 I made my way over to the Izu Panorama Park & Ropeway. This was a fantastic view of Mt. Fuji on a mostly clear day. It’s a good 2 hour train trip from central Tokyo to get here. If you want the rural experience and a postcard worthy picture then it might be worth it. If you’re already on the peninsula for any other reason, make the time for it. Returning to Tkyo, I checked in to the hotel in Hanzomon where my big luggage was wauting for me in my room. I use the Yamamoto service to ship it with little cost. Dinner was at the smallest place I ate the whole trip. Had some oden and the woman seemed genuinely tickled that I liked the mustard she had given me and kept bringing me little extras to go with my meal. This place was across the street from Hanzomon station. On G-maps it is an empty store front so I can’t tell you the name.
Day 8 I went in search of the Ultraman statue. Instead I found the Harry Potter themed station. Went to a shop simply called Knife Shop for one last souvenir. Tried to visit the Palace, but it was clased for a function. Tried the museum in Tokyo station, but it was closed while rotating exhibits. Saw a pack of Go-Karts being driven by people all dressed in monkey onesies. Then Tokyo station to Narita airport.
