30F solo traveler. I’ve been to Japan once before but only to Tokyo and Kamakura. This trip, I hit all the major tourist spots in Kyoto, and made brief stops in Osaka, Nara, Koyasan and spent a night at Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku. I booked this trip a month in advance.
Accommodation was all capsule/guest house/hostels with the exception of an Onsen stay. I did not prioritize food on this trip, instead I focused on art, shrines, museums and shopping.
I’d say this trip was budget-ish as I tried to save on accommodation and food. I’ve listed the cost per activity below (activities without a cost listed were free)
Day 1: Tokyo
Step count: 27,356
On my previous trip to Tokyo, I hit most of the big spots (Sensō-ji, Tokyo Skytree, Meiji Jingu, akihabara, Kamakura etc.) So I opted to head to new areas this time!
Highlights:
– Gotokuji – I thought this would be overrated but it’s a beautiful temple and the cats are fun.
– Walked through Setagaya – this is probably my favorite neighborhood in Tokyo. So beautiful!
– Shiro-Hige’s Cream Puff Factory for Totoro cream puffs. Again, thought this might be overrated but the cream puffs are delicious. The cafe is owned by Hayao Miyazaki’s sister-in-law, there are some orignal Ghibli sketches hanging up that are signed by him.
– Shopping in Shimo-Kitwaza. Amazing selection of vintage / second hand shops here. The clothing isn’t super cheap but I loved this area!
– Lunch at Rojiura Curry SAMURAI. A lighter curry than what I’m used to but it was really delicious. Recommend getting here early or prepare to wait
– Headed to Shibuya crossing. I’d recommend going into the Magnet mall to get a view of the crossing for free
Day 2: Tokyo → Osaka
Step count: 21,347
Highlights:
– The National Art Center Tokyo. A must see – great exhibits and the building is beautiful!
– Yayoi Kusama museum – It was cool, but the museum is very small. Considering the tickets are $7 USD, I’d say it was worth it but I wouldn’t go again.
– Shinkansen to Osaka, went to Dotonbori and got takoyaki and okonomiyaki. Definitely worth a visit at least once but prepare for crowds.
Day 3: Osaka → Koyasan
Step Count: 26,566
Highlights:
– Had a small breakfast at Brother in Osaka. Incredible cafe with really great coffee and 80/90s retro vibes. Highly recommend checking out a retro coffee shop while in Japan.
– Stopped by the moss statue at Hozenji
– Train to Mount Koya (see section at bottom of this post for transportation suggestions) very beautiful train ride!
– Stayed at Koyasan Guest House Kokuu. It’s a bit out of town (although very close to Okunoin) but the bus stops close by. Owner is very cool and the place is extremely cosy.
– Kongobu-ji is worth a stop – the rock garden is amazing. Cost: about $6 USD with discount from world heritage ticket
– Daimon Gate at sunset is incredible!
– Night tour of Okunoin cemetery. This might not be for everyone, but wow. Okunoin is easily the most beautiful place I’ve ever been. I’d recommend doing the tour because you learn a lot about the history of the cemetery, Kobo Daishi, and how to be respectful. Cost: entry to the cemetery is free, but I paid $45 for the tour
Day 4: Koyasan → Kyoto (via Osaka)
Step Count: 23,741
Highlights:
– Went back to Okunoin for sunrise. I got to see some of the monks at the temple. Insanely beautiful in the daylight.
– In Kyoto, I stopped by Kapital. Really great store with high quality clothing made in Japan. This is NOT a budget friendly store.
– I stayed at The Millennials, would recommend.
Day 5: Kyoto
Step Count: 31,777
Highlights
– Fushimi Inari. I arrived at 6:50am to beat the crowds. There were still people there, but only a few. Really beautiful, but I highly recommend exploring the shrines that are off the main path, those shrines were a highlight for me. GET HERE EARLY!
– Bought some tea for friends and family at Ujicha Kigetsudō. I HIGHLY recommend coming here to buy matcha and Hojicha, it’s very traditional and the owners are incredibly kind.
– Lunch at Ramen Julia. They have a delicious Wagyu ramen that is affordable. Owners are great people!
– Shopping in Gion. Stopped at Maiko Antiques
– Yasui-Konpira-gu Kushi-zuka mound is worth a stop – fun to see people lined up to crawl through it.
– Dropped film off at Okawa Camera. Highly recommend for developing or buying film in Kyoto – cheapest film I’ve seen anywhere in years ($12 for a roll). The scans are high quality with a super quick turnaround (1-2 hours).
Day 6: Kyoto (Arashiyama)
Step Count: 25,802
Don’t come to Arashiyama just for the bamboo. I arrived at 6:45 AM, had the place mostly to myself, and it still wasn’t worth it. However, all the other beautiful shrines and temples are beautiful!
Highlights
– Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple. Cost: about $2 USD
– Adashino Nenbutsuji (there is a bamboo grove here if you really want that bamboo picture). This was my favorite spot I went to in Arashiyama. Cost: about $3 USD
– Okochi Sanso Gorge Observation Deck (and walk by the river below). Very pretty but would be UNREAL in fall or spring!
– Tenryu-ji is worth a visit. Cost: about $4 USD
– George’s Fried Chicken Curry. I was skeptical about this spot because it’s in a very touristy area, but WOW it’s great. And the owner is lovely!
– Took the Randen train to Kinkaku-ji. Very cute!
– Kinkaku-ji basically a photo-op, there are hundreds of others taking pictures here and a very short path to walk. HOWEVER it is really beautiful and popular for a reason. I’d say it’s worth a visit at least once. Cost: about $4 USD
– checked out the Face House, then shopped at creative studio & shop ooo
– Grabbed a drink at Jazz in Rokudenashi. Really amazing jazz bar, but it’s very low key so don’t have a loud conversation. Also, smoking is allowed indoors here!
Note: I would have gone to Giōji Temple and Okochi Sanso Garden in Arashiyama but the season wasn’t right. I would love to come back to Arashiyama in the fall.
Day 7: Kyoto → Tokyo (with Nara trip)
Step count: 20,481
Highlights
– Breakfast at Kacto in Kyoto – great vibes, open early. I had an excellent macha latte and the pancakes were some of the best I’ve ever had (they are not soufflé pancakes)
– I went straight to Nara park. The deer are cool but I found the whole thing a little overrated. They are aggressive and will hiss, headbutt and chew on your jacket looking for biscuits. However it’s worth seeing, just don’t stay for too long
– Tōdai-ji is incredible if you like architecture and history. I want to come back and spend more time here. Cost: about $4 USD
Note: I stopped at the famous mochi spot, Nakatanidou. Mochi was decent but I’ve had better elsewhere, and the hoard of people trying to get a video of the mochi pounding was unbearable. I dipped pretty quickly
Day 8: Tokyo → Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku
Step Count: 9,114
Notes on Takaragawa:
– You can arrange pick up from Jomokogen station, so you don’t have to worry about figuring out the bus. Just email them a couple days before you arrive
– The pools, river and bridges are SO beautiful! There are 4 pools, one is for women only (this was my favorite pool)
– The mixed gender pools were not as peaceful. In the mixed gender pools, you have to wear these strange bathing suits that are a bit uncomfortable
– Food was probably a 3/5, a little hit or miss. Some things were REALLY good and others not so much. I liked breakfast the best as it was a traditional Japanese breakfast of fish, rice, soup and pickles.
– I loved my room. I was worried about the room being cold but it was very warm! The traditional style was really cool to experience
– All around it might be a little expensive for what you get, but I really enjoyed my time here and I would like to come back during fall. It’s a beautiful place!
Day 9: Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku → Tokyo
Step Count: 19,365
Highlights
– Morning soak at Takaragawa before catching the Shikasen back to Tokyo
– Shopping at Kappabashi street – great deals on knives, kitchenware etc. The fake food stores are awesome!
– Walked around akihabara, did some shopping. Super Potato is my favorite store for retro games and consoles.
– Dinner at Seirikan. I’ve wanted to go here ever since I watched Ugly Delicious. It was really good pizza, the crust was near perfect imo. The Beatles theme wasn’t for me, but the building is cool and I had a nice time. Would recommend!
– I stayed at Imano Hostel in Ginza, would recommend. Staff was awesome, it’s really clean and centrally located.
Day 10: Tokyo (New Years Eve)
Step Count: 20,022
Highlights:
– Spent the morning visiting various street attractions and walking around. I went to the Ghibli Clock, 3D Billboard in Shinjuku, Godzilla in Shinjuku. All are worth a visit. The Ghibli clock is HUGE and so cool – I didn’t get to see the show (where the clock moves) but I will 100% plan to catch it next time. It’s a little out of the way, but close to a metro stop. Definitely make a quick stop here if you’re a Ghibli fan.
– Spent the afternoon shopping in Ginza at Muji, Itoya, Uniqlo, and Loft.
– My accommodation made soba for us, as is tradition for NYE. Really special experience!
– Hatsumōde at Zōjō-ji Temple. It was a really awesome experience drinking sake and welcoming in the new year. It was crowded but not unbearable!
Day 11: Tokyo (New Years Day)
Step Count: 19,118
Highlights:
– Hatsumōde at Hie Shrine. I wanted to go back to a shrine because there are too many people on NYE to participate. Ate some great food at the stalls outside the shrine
– Hatsumōde (again) at Akasaka Hikawa Shrine. Much longer wait to get in, but overall more organized here.
– Went to an exhibit at Mori Arts Center Gallery. I meant to go to the museum, but I enjoyed the gallery exhibit, and you can get a great view of the city. Cost: $14 USD
– Ate some ramen at らぁ麺 善治 新橋店 (not sure of English name) in Shinbashi. Excellent food and the staff was so kind!
Headed back to my accommodation, and then the Ishikawa earthquake hit. In Tokyo, it was much less severe (most people didn’t even feel it) but I was on the 10th story and the entire building shook and swayed for minutes. I’ve experienced a lot of earthquakes in my life, but never one that lasted so long. I hope that the impacted areas are able to rebuild, and rest in peace to those who lost their lives.
I would recommend downloading the NERV app before your trip to receive earthquake and tsunami warnings.
Day 12: Tokyo (and attempted flight home)
Step Count: 18,965
Highlights:
– Dropped off some film at Kitamura Camera in Shinjuku – a must stop if you’re into film!
– Did some lucky bag (new years sales) shopping in Shinjuku and Ginza – amazing deals!
– Got some free sake and watched lion dancers at a new years event at Tokyo Midtown Galleria
– Hatsumōde again at Nogi-jinja Shrine. Nice shrine with Torii gates, they had some fun new years decorations
Unfortunately, I arrived at Haneda for my flight about 10 minutes after the tragic plane crash. Rest in peace to those who lost their lives.
My flight was delayed until the following evening, and it took ages to get everything sorted. Finally made it back through immigration at 2AM. No luck getting a hotel or hostel for the night, so had to sleep at the airport.
Day 13: Haneda Airport (bonus day)
Step count: 5,996
I thought about trying to go to Yokohama for the day, but after sleeping on the floor and failing to secure luggage storage, I opted to stay in the airport to rest.
Highlights:
– I had one of the best meals of my trip at Katsusen. Highly recommend if you have some time to kill at Haneda.
Overall tips / final thoughts –
Overall, I walked about 131 miles over 13
days!
New Years Advice:
– Many places will be closed from Dec 29th – Jan 4th, not just on New Year’s Day
– Don’t expect a big party on NYE. You might be able to find something if that’s what you’re interested in, but imo Hatsumōde is the thing to do.
– Make sure you check websites for attractions / stores etc during the NY holiday. Google isn’t always up to date.
– If you have large bags or are traveling in a group, make sure to reserve your Shinkansen tickets (although I personally didn’t have any issues with this)
– Go shopping on Jan 2nd for lucky bag deals!
– There are tons of unique events and festive things to do from Jan 1st – 3rd. Check the timeout website for more information on this.
– There are still some attractions open during the New Year’s holiday. In Tokyo, here is a short list of things I found that are open (besides shrines and temples): Edo Tokyo Open Air Architecture Museum, Tokyo Tower, Mori Art Museum / Mori Arts Center Gallery, Roppongi Hills Obervation Deck, Tokyo City View, Small Worlds Tokyo, major parks like Disney etc, train lines to Kamakura
– If you don’t care about Hatsumode or New Years sales, Jan 1-3 would be a great time to plan an Onsen visit!
Osaka
– My one regret is not spending more time here. Osaka is just.. cool, and I don’t know how to explain it better than that.
Koyasan
– In my opinion, it is absolutely worth it to spend a night here so you can see Okunoin during the day and at night.
– I was stressed about getting here, but it was actually very easy:
1) Go to Namba station, and make sure you’re at the central gate.
2) Buy the [world heritage ticket](https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2358_012.html), which covers all trains, the cable car, has discounts on temple entrance fees, and also gives you a 48hr unlimited bus pass for Koya. It is around $30 USD
3) The train leaves from the platform right behind the ticket counter. The only thing I should add is that there are only a few trains per day, so I’d recommend buying your ticket early in the morning.
– If you don’t do a temple stay, food options are limited for breakfast and dinner. Restaurants open late and close around 6pm (besides family mart)! I ate at Hanabishi for dinner, it was fine but a little pricy.
Tokyo
– I really only have one piece of advice for Tokyo: pick a neighborhood that looks interesting to you, and walk around. Don’t try to see it all, it’s impossible. I feel like you could visit Tokyo for a month and not see everything. The best moments I’ve had here are just exploring without a plan.
General
– This is the second time I’ve failed to get Ghibli Museum tickets. If you’re a Ghibli fan and find yourself without tickets to the museum or park, check out the cream puff factory, the Ghibli clock, Totoro forest, and don’t miss the Donguri Republic stores (the one at Tokyo Sky Tree has a Totoro animatronic). Additionally here are some Ghibli-like attractions as well: Kichijōji Petit Mura, and Tove Jansson Akebono Children’s Forest Park
– Shopping (Tokyo): If you’re looking for designer bags/clothes, I’d recommend RAGTAG and 2nd Street. For stationary, go to Itoya, ancōra, and Loft. For games, Super Potato. For skincare/makeup, check out the big department stores like Mitsukoshi, or Loft. Head to Shimo-Kitazawa for vintage and second hand (lots of carhartt, Levi’s etc)
– if you’re on a budget, shop at any BOOKOFF — they have everything!
– This probably goes without saying but DO NOT GO TO RESTAURANTS RECOMMENDED ON TIK TOK! Use google or just see what’s around. Every Tik Tok restaurant I went to (besides the cream puff factory) was a disappointment.
– I used the digital Suica card in my Apple wallet, but It wouldn’t top up for me after setting up and adding some funds in my home country. Seems like some people have gotten this to work after the iOS 17.2 update, but it still wouldn’t work for me. I did find a couple train stations in Tokyo that had ticket machines that would let you top up your phone card with cash, but it might be worth it to add a bit more money initially to avoid the hassle. If you’re worried about putting too much (you can’t get money back once it’s on there) you can always use it at Konbini as well as trains!
– This has been said before, but most places don’t open until 10 or 11. I’d recommend doing a shrine/park in the morning because they’re usually open 24hrs, grabbing a small snack at a Konbini for breakfast (unless your accommodation provides breakfast)
– Bring two pairs of good walking shoes and alternate between them!
– For a budget, I think Japan can be as expensive as you want it to be. In general I spent about $35 USD on accommodation per night, $10 USD for trains per day, and $20-30 USD on food (think around $10 per meal). So roughly that is about $70 USD a day not including shopping or attractions. Shinkansen or flights between cities are extra, around $200 USD to get to Osaka or Kyoto from Tokyo (round trip). For shopping, I’d budget at least $150 for the trip, but that could easily go up to $500 or more if you plan on making bigger purchases.
– As a female solo traveler, I never felt unsafe. However, still be careful and never let your guard down! I’ve seen a lot of reports of women getting followed.
All in all, I had a great trip, even with the chaos in the last couple of days. Hope this is helpful if you’re planning a Japan trip, especially over the new year holiday!
Edited for formatting and spelling
Edit #2: To clarify, the $10 train cost does not include Shinkansen trains. Here’s a breakdown of my approximate transportation cost between cities
Tokyo to Osaka: ¥14,800 ($102.33)
Osaka to Koyasan (round trip): ¥3540 ($24)
Osaka to Kyoto: ¥740 ($5)
Kyoto to Nara (round trip): ¥1400 ($10)
Kyoto to Tokyo: ¥14684 ($101.53)
Tokyo to Jomokogen (round trip): ¥9256 ($64)