Please consider a visit to Kanazawa, the sooner the better.
This is my second trip to Japan. We traveled to Kanazawa at the end of January this year and were enchanted by its allure, surpassing even that of our visits to Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo.
Before going on our trip, numerous Redditors advised against it, citing reasons to cancel — namely the recent earthquake.
I’m so glad I didn’t listen.
I feel that this is often a knee-jerk reaction to a lot of disastrous events with limited exposure in Western media. Instead, I turned to Twitter and Instagram, seeking feedback from locals and using Google Translate to get an actual gauge the situation. Many locals urged tourists to come, aiming to aid earthquake relief efforts in the Noto Peninsula.
We made our arrangements, booked our hotel, planned our itinerary, and secured Shinkansen tickets upon arrival in Japan. Despite minimal structural damage in Kanazawa, tourism had taken a hit, granting us the city almost entirely to ourselves. The heavy snowfall in January, while stunning, added a touch of suspense to our trip. Initially, our Shinkansen train from Tokyo was canceled due to snow (NOT earthquake), but repairs were swiftly made…I guess overnight!
Upon arrival in Kanazawa, we noticed the clever sprinkler system that kept the streets clear of snow. It seems like Kanazawa’s city infrastructure wasn’t affected by the disaster either. Our stay at Hotel Intergate, complete with its own onsen, spacious rooms, and convenient location near shopping and Omicho Market, was a highlight. The absence of other hotel guests only added to our enjoyment.
We wandered around Seisonkaku Villa and enjoyed having the entire building to ourselves. I think without tourists, we were able to thoroughly enjoy stepping on and hearing the wood boards that deliberately creaked (mimicking the sound of nightingales — a technique samurais used to detect intruders). If it were crowded with people, you wouldn’t be able to hear the nightingale noise as clearly. The villa is otherwise peaceful, at times eerily silent.
Kenroku-en was dead quiet, save for the oldest fountain in Japan bubbling nearby. To enter, you need to pay a small fee. We saw several snowmen built by locals, and the paths winding through the park lead us through tall pine trees that shielded us from the falling snow. Adjacent to the garden’s entrance is the castle.
The castle grounds and park were very open space, and you can walk around for free. To enter the turrets, you need to pay a small fee. The internal carpentry is impressive and we loved the view from the top.
Among our favorite dining experiences was Okina Sushi (Okina Sushi – 2 Chome-1-5 Hikosomachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0901, Japan) where the owners, an adorable older couple, gave us hospitality and authentic cuisine that left a lasting impression. They were so warm and welcoming, but I didn’t feel the same welcome or warmth from places like in Kyoto. The owners of Okina spoke very little English but made a huge effort, and we dined mostly with other locals. We ate there two nights in a row and the wife folded origami with us. Their menu was extremely reasonable (2500 yen for a large sushi set with soup and side dish), and they even fed us a lot of free dishes.
Kanazawa is known for its arts and crafts, and prior to my visit, I viewed local Stories on Instagram and came across a little shop that specialized in…ceramic cat figurines. The shop owner and I messaged back and forth in Japanese since my visit didn’t coincide with her opening hours. I find that if you ask, store owners will definitely accommodate and schedule a day/time for you to visit! If you’re into cats and handmade gifts, I recommend [ComeComeCat](https://www.instagram.com/comecomecat_kanazawa?igsh=MzY1NDJmNzMyNQ==) (1 Chome-10-1 Higashiyama, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0831, Japan). I came home with a giant bag of beautiful figurines, charms, and jewelry.
Another standout was Barrier ([website](https://barrier-japan.jp)) a beautifully conceptualized restaurant that surpassed our expectations in both ambiance and affordability. We had the entire restaurant to ourselves again, and the place was staffed by one person during to shortage and low season. We didn’t make a reservation. The concept of this restaurant allows you to transfer from “light to darkness” — the downstairs area was filled with white light and walls. As you go past the curtains to the left of the entrance and up the stairs, you’re in total darkness.
Dining was sitting on the floor, and you get to choose from a set course of seasonal dishes (3 dashi stock bowls, sushi, ramen, and dessert). We went with Option D with sake—totally recommend. I’d speak more on this experience but don’t want to spoil it for anyone else!
Kanazawa offers a blend of tradition and modernity, showcasing its arts, crafts, and culinary delights amidst a backdrop of warm hospitality and serene surroundings. I encourage you to visit, especially if you’re looking for a place that is a little slower-paced and less crowded with people so that you can enjoy Japan without the stress and queues.
by faberge_legs