I’m planning to go to Japan in 2024 hopefully for three weeks for my first trip. I’m currently planning on going solo. I really want to spend a day doing the Shimanami Kaido cycling route on my trip.
I looked up that for an amateur cyclist it will take 10 hours to do while taking breaks and looking at the scenery. So If I started at 9am I should finish at 7pm?
I was thinking of going from Osaka to onomichi, do the Shimanami Kaido the next day and stay at Imabari City, move onto Matsuyama city for the day and get the ferry to Hiroshima.
Would this be the best way to add it to my trip? Should I do it as a day trip from Hiroshima? Or stay at Onomichi and once completing the cycle go back to onomichi for my things and go to Hiroshima that evening or the following day?
21 comments
Considering the opening hours of rental places, if you think you can’t finish Shimanami Kaido before 5pm, you should split in two legs.
Note that while most people do Shimanami Kaido starting from Onomichi, if you want to visit Matsuyama – I would recommend first visiting Hiroshima, then taking a day to visit Matsuyama, staying the night there and going to Imabari in the morning, so you will finish up in Onomichi. Also note that since Imabari is 35 minutes by limited express from Matsuyama – there is no point to stay there overnight.
Yeah, mithdraug has some excellent points.
When I did the Shimanami Kaido I started in Onomichi and stayed halfway on Omishima. It let us take our time and really drink in the surroundings. The next day we dropped our bikes in Imabari and headed to Matsuyama. Which is lovely and well worth the time. The jetfoil ferry gets you to Hiroshima easily, and you can head on to whatever you want to do on Honshu or Kyushu from there.
Unless you are very fit and well used to biking a lot I wouldn’t try to do it as a daytrip. I know people who have done it that way- but then you are just hauling ass to Imabari and then hauling ass right back. Probably fine if thats your third or fourth time and you live in Okayama. But less so if you are a tourist looking to bop around and enjoy.
I wouldn’t trust whoever said you could do it in 10 hours AND stop for breaks to look at the sights.
I tried in 2019, starting from Onomichi. It was supposed to rain for the next two days along the route. Started at 9am and by 4:30 I had only made it about 60% of the way. This didnt include ANY breaks or stopping to sightsee. For reference I was 21 at the time and regularly ran 30+ miles a week so I wasnt out of shape.
A lot of this route involves very steep hills to get to the bridges and cross the islands. They really kill your momentum.
I had to return the bike at a station along the route and take a bus back to near the Ryokan I was staying at (was planning on finishing the route and then bussing back to the Ryokan due to the heavier rain the next day). The bus didnt even stop in the town. I was very lucky that a nice local let me hitchhike to the Ryokan and make it on time for dinner.
My advice would be to split it into two days and stay at a Ryokan in the middle. This area is absolutley beautiful with a lot of things to see/do. Take your time. Start in Onomichi, it’s a nice break from the city life.
In Matsuyama recouperate with some of their famous OJ and take a bath at Dogo-Onsen. The people in Matsuyama were incredibly kind.
Skip Imabari like the other poster said.
I was planning on doing this as well but covid hit…One question I had for anyone experienced was, what did you do with your luggage? Can you keep it in a coin locker in Hiroshima and return in a day or two?
I did it in one day and stopped at every kilometer marker. I strongly recommend against this path.
Edit:
Doing it in 10 hours is entirely possible as an amateur.
It is one of my favorite memories, and it’s like to do it again.
One of the joys of Japan generally is the concept of “taking your time”. For instance — “enjoy you meal” is yukkuri tabete kudasai” (literally “please eat slowly”). I would think the same applies to sightseeing (including by bicycle). Anything my wife and I do there, we build in ample time to “waste”.
I did it last year starting from Onomichi. I started at 7:30am and finished by 3pm, including stopping for lunch and stopping at some temples on the way. If you’re in reasonable shape at all I don’t think you need to split it into two days like other people are suggesting.
Don’t bother with Imabari, I just got the train to Matsuyama and spent a day there, and then got the boat to Hiroshima.
It’s one of the best things I’ve done in Japan, highly recommend it!
When I cycled, I actually adjusted my trip based on the winds since I wanted to have them behind me. I highly recommend checking the weather before deciding which direction to cycle.
Unless you actually are used to cycle long distances I would split it up into two days if you actually want to be free to stop whenever/wherever to take in the views and experiences.
Take your time, it should feel like stroll but on a bike. Not a sprint.
This video provides a good overview and perspective of doing the Shimanami-kaido: https://youtu.be/54jl3yXH4Tk
As many others already stated, you’d be better off doing it in 2 days.
I did cycle the shimanami kaido together with a friend in 2019 and we did it in 2 days. We were both beginners but otherwise in shape, yet we were quite exhausted from the up hill as well as from the constant wind that came from the front so we had to push against it, that was especially tough up on the bridges.
Like others mentioned, it’s best to not stay in Imabari and to continue on straight to Matsuyama.
About your luggage, you can send it from Onomichi to Imabari or the other way with [Takkyubin (Yamato Transport)](https://www.kuronekoyamato.co.jp/ytc/en/send/services/takkyubin/) it’s very affordable and easy to use.
Onomichi itself is a very beautiful coastal town with many shrines and temples and looks like straight out of an ghibli movie. So if you have the time, you should look around there a bit.
When I did it, I sent my luggage ahead to Hiroshima, took the train to Imabari and stayed the night, rode to Onomichi, and then took the train to Hiroshima to Mee my luggage.
10 hours is a stretch. I’d say you can do it in 6-8.
If you wake up early an you are able to be in the train around 7am in Osaka to start the cycling at 9am as you said, it should be possible.
That sound as a much better plan than to do it as a day trip from Hiroshima.
I would also not return to Onomichi regardless you plan. What I would do is the morning of the cycling, arrange baggage delivery to your Hiroshima hotel. Just bring one change of cloth in a day pack, so you can use it for the night and the next day you will get your luggage back in Hiroshima.
You could also consider going to Matsuyama for the night, if you get on the limited express, it’s about 40 minutes away.
And should you stop in Onomichi ? Actually I think that it is a shame that many people just plan to get there just to start the cycling. It is probably my favorite city in Japan. There is not that much to do, but the atmosphere is just quite relaxing and charming. The view from Senko-ji is also fantastic, but I know there is also great view on the road. I would also consider spending some time in Matsushima, even if just to go check the castle in the morning.
The day we did it was a monsoon so we only did half of it. But it was still the best time we had in japan.
I would like more information about the Imabari side of the kaido such as where you should drop the bikes and where to go from there. I plan to do this again when Japan opens up again. I was thinking about starting from Imabari side and going back to onomichi but don’t mind either way. We got half way about 3.5 hrs on but i think the 2 day thing would be OK.
What lodging suggestions for about half way do people have and how do you keep the bikes safe when you stay at the hotel/ryokan?
I saw the luggage suggestions but are people sending it to the lodging or to the other side to the next hotel?
When I did it, I sent my luggage ahead to Hiroshima, took the train to Imabari and stayed the night, rode to Onomichi, and then took the train to Hiroshima to Mee my luggage.
10 hours is a stretch. I’d say you can do it in 6-8.
Did it in may ’18, here is my old post about it:
https://www.reddit.com/r/JapanTravel/comments/9mf893/z/e7eeekb
I’d do it again the same way. Himeji is a wonderful 1/2 day stop on the way.
It might depend if your primary motivation is cycling or exploring. If cycling is your primary goal, I’m go to go against the grain and say that the timeframe you suggested is valid. When I did it, I started a little before 10am, stopped a total of 3 times for about 45 minutes each (lunch at a service station, a rose garden, and an open-air museum complex), and finished a little before 5. I also know a fair amount of people who have made day trips out of it. Of course, as others have said if you’d like to stop more often and explore more, possibly take detours then two days would be better off. That’s a perfectly fine option.
My person advice would be to stay in Matsuyama, not Imabari. The train between the two is only about 1 hour and it runs fairly late, with the last train being sometime between 10 and 11, if I remember. If you finish earlier, you’d be able to head straight for Matsuyama, potentially check-in a hotel, and then go to Dogo Onsen to relax at the end of the day. No better way to end the day than at one of Japan’s most famous Onsens imo. Even if you are tremendously slow, the last train being as late as it is should mean you wouldn’t have to worry too much about rushing to Matsuyama. Unless you’re renting bikes from Giant, the main bike return does shut at 5 but I believe there’s a late night drop off spot where you can return bikes until a bit later in the evening.
Hello, I did it in 2018, I was 24 and in good condition but not very athletic. I’m from France and where I live, it’s quite hilly.
I didn’t find it too difficult, it’s mostly flat and the climbs are not very steep. I started at 8am and arrived at 4pm, I stopped for 1h30 at Kosan-Ji, at different convenient stores to get food and also to take pictures.
I did Imabari to Onomichi, and sent my luggage as it’s more convenient. To do it in one day is possible, I did it and I enjoyed it and took my time except at the end where I was tired and took the shortest road. But if possible, I’ll suggest to do it in 2 days in order to enjoy the landscape and take advantage of beaches. And also, there is a lot to visit in Onomichi and it deserves a full day too.
The “best” way, imo, would be to go from Osaka to a little tour of Shikoku that ends with you staying in Matsuyama. Ship your stuff to whatever your next destination will be post-shimanami kaido via kuroneko, and in the morning catch a train/taxi to Imabari start of the shimanami kaido and doodle your way along the route (don’t get a mama-cheri, those things weigh a ton.) Split it between 2 days and take your time and enjoy, the scenery is amazing. End up in Onomichi which is at least somewhat interesting compared to Imabari. If you get in early enough and have the energy, the temple walk is nice and the little bit of rock climbing in Senkoji is pretty unique with a good view at the end. Take train from Onomichi to wherever you next destination is.
A few tips:
If you can, like many redditors suggested, split it over 2 days, you wouldn’t be disappointed. There’s so much to see and honestly while you can definitely do it in one day, you’d probably have to take the “beginner (direct)” path, be riding full speed, and miss so many quaint nooks and crannies. I went with my 65 year old dad, spread it over 3 days / 2 nights to give him ample rest time and he said it was just fine. It gave us ample time to explore and get off the beaten path.
Highly recommend splurging on a good bike rental especially if you don’t normally bike. Two years ago electric pedal-assist and e-bikes were not offered… If you’re one-waying it then you’d probably have to rent through the [city-sponsored rental programs](https://shimanami-cycle.or.jp/rental/english). so I’d take that option if possible. Or splurge on a [Giant](https://giant-store-rental.jp/en/rsv/)! We saw some people absolutely struggling on the bridge inclines while others on Giants glided by. Just remember that for every fun downhill cruise there’s a pretty rough uphill battle once you lose momentum 😂. Great workout though!
Some lodging/food recs from our cycling trip:
* [Ikoi No Ie](http://www.ikoinoie.co.jp/). It’s a really awesome old elementary school that was recently converted into a hotel/hostel/b&b. I highly recommend it! Food was delicious, owners were warm and friendly. It also has a free open air art installation you can visit on site, relaxing large communal bath with bay windows literally overlooking the ocean…I want to go back…
* [Hotel Innoshima](http://www.hotel-innoshima.jp/): no frills hotel at the top of a hill. Gorgeous views of the bay if your rooms are on the back side of the property. Has a cute quiet hilltop park 15 seconds walk away.
* [Onomichi style ramen](https://www.onomichiramen-tani.com): Right across from the city bike rental lot and ferry.
* [Ice cream!](http://www.setoda-dolce.com/): great snack after riding all day.
* [Omishima Coffee!](http://omishimacoffee.com/)
* [Lemon cakes!](https://www.patisserie-okumoto.com/index.html)
* [Imabari towels](https://www.imabaritowel.jp/): Imabari is famous for their high quality towels (all shapes, sizes, and uses) and other cotton goods. The main HQ store is in imabari (surprise) and worth a quick stop! Douglas Adams fans would appreciate this store so much because as we all know a towel, is about the most massively useful thing an interstellar hitchhiker can have. We bought entirely way too many.
* [Kirosan Park:](https://www.city.imabari.ehime.jp/kanko/spot/?a=182) Last stop before you enter Imabari. Has a gorgeous upper deck vista point that lets you look back at all the bridges you rode through to get your final destination.
So envious you get to go. I can’t wait to plan a future trip!
Edit: My dad was never a big traveler (always working) so after having him treated him to this retirement trip…he broke down in tears after this trek and said it was the best trip he’d ever been on in his life. I still get emotional thinking about that. Thanks for everything dad!
I think you should do 1 night 2 days for Shimanami Kaido to enjoy the full experience without being rushed. There was a beautiful temple on the second island out of the normal path that required an insane incline up that took me 1-2 hours to get to (not an experienced cyclist whatsoever and walked up) but it was worth the view. A top view of the islands around you with an aerial view of the current island, alongside a line of buddha statues that felt like you entered into an achievement area worth trekked. But yeah, wasn’t experienced and biked with backpack on me, couldn’t finish it in 1.5 days and had to give up haha – want to do it again in the future though (minus the backpack). ALSO, weather – had to bike through rain, and weather is never certain!
Search up Shiratakiyama on Innoshima island – took one of my greatest scenic shots and it was during rainy weather too!