I first visited Japan solo in 2016 and went to Tokyo, Nikko, and Kyoto. For my 2nd visit to Japan in June/July last year, I went with my partner who was seeing Japan for the first time. My goals were to 1) see brand new places and 2) not melt!
Everything I’d recommend to others is bolded below.
Day 1:
We landed at Haneda around 3PM and made it to our hotel, **Prince Smart Inn Ebisu**, by 5. I still had my old Pasmo card from 2016 and had no problems topping it up and using it to catch the train from the airport. My partner purchased a Pasmo Passport.
After checking in at the hotel, we went to the **Montbell** store in Ebisu (now a Uniqlo, RIP) to pick up a few things we wanted that were cheaper in Japan. We met up with a friend at **Udon Yamacho** for dinner. Staying in **Ebisu** was great; we really liked how central it was to the rest of Tokyo and how many things there were to do in the immediate vicinity.
To fight jet lag we walked to **Daikanyama** and along the Meguro River after dinner. I think most people visit **T-site** in daytime, but it actually had a nice, romantic vibe at night. Daikanyama was probably my favorite neighborhood in Tokyo.
Day 2:
My partner visited the **Meiji Shrine**, Zojoji Temple (they were having an event for Shinzo Abe at the time 🥴), and **Tokyo Tower**, went shopping at **Loopwheeler** and Uniqlo in Harajuku, grabbed lunch from 7/11, and got coffee at Onibus and **Mameya.**
I went to **Bricolage** for breakfast in Roppongi, visited the Mori Art Museum and Tokyo Sky Deck, checked out 2 stores for souvenirs that were a bust (The Cover Nippon and Nakagawa Masashichi), window shopped at **Found Muji** and bought incense at **Lisn** in **Aoyama**, then went to the **Nezu Museum.** The exhibit at the time wasn’t the most interesting but the museum building and the garden were beautiful enough to justify the visit.
Met up with my partner for ramen at **Jinruiminamenrui** in Ebisu (the Tokyo outpost of the #1 Osaka ramen shop on the Hyakumeiten), went shopping for Japanese denim at **Dry Bones** in Daikanyama, and got **Miyazaki mango** desserts at Da Cafe.
Day 3:
We got breakfast at **Sawamura** in Hiroo – their kouign amann was a standout – then went to the Hamarikyu Gardens to walk around in the relative cool of the morning. We saw a stingray in the water there (!) and enjoyed the air conditioned teahouse. We spent the rest of the morning in Ginza window shopping at **Beams, Kapital**, and Takumi. We had the truffle ramen at **Kagari** for lunch which was a top meal of the trip and well worth the queue.
In the afternoon we did TeamLab Planets. I’m not a huge fan of manufactured attractions but it was interesting enough, and something to do indoors with AC. The whole place smelled like feet so avoid if you have a strong aversion. Since we were in the vicinity, we visited the Gundam Base afterward and played DDR at the arcade there.
We bought some really gorgeous cookware at the **Iga Mono** shop in Ebisu, then went out for pork offal skewers at **Rukuma Tokyo Shibuya**. Grilled pork tongue and barely cooked liver are amazing, turns out.
Day 4:
My partner took the bullet train to **Shizuoka** for a tea farm tour with **Tea Cup Trips.** He raved about the tour and a cafe he visited in Shizuoka called **Chagama**. I don’t drink tea but he found someone to go with from the subreddit Discord whose partner also didn’t drink tea.
I went to Gotokuji (small and boring, a definite skip) and former Marquis Maeda Teahouse (not bad if you’re already in the area). I really wanted to go to the **Mingeikan/Japan Folk Crafts Museum** nearby, but sadly they were in between exhibitions and closed.
I met up with a friend for kaiseki lunch at **Asuka** in **Shimokitazawa.** (We had to run into Donki before eating because it was a traditional place that requires you to remove your shoes and he didn’t have socks!). We checked out some shops afterward, most notably **Fog Linen Work**. Afterward I toured the **Kyu Asakura house** in Daikanyama, then went shopping at the **Discover Japan Lab** store in Shibuya. I highly recommend this place, it has real deal artisanal pottery and glassware among other things.
Met back up with my partner at **Matsuya Ginza** where there is a soy sauce counter selling varieties from all over Japan in affordable 3-ounce bottles. We bought a bunch to bring back and stocked up on Japanese tinned fish too.
Dinner was the best meal of our trip at **Sushi Kuriyakawa** in Ebisu. Holy shit. My face hurt from grinning for 2 hours straight. The chefs spoke some English and were very kind and explained every single dish. They also didn’t mind us taking pictures of the nigiri. Sushi omakase in Japan can be really uptight but this wasn’t. Also, I don’t drink and I was a little worried that not ordering any sake or beer would be an issue. Wasn’t a problem here.
Day 5:
Last day in Tokyo! We got sandwiches at Lawson and gesha coffee at **Leaves**, then went to Akihabara for the morning. My partner got the new Zelda game for cheap at Bic and admired all the vintage games and comics at Mandarake. Also hit up another arcade for more DDR.
We waited in line for an hour for lunch at **Tonkatsu Marugo** and it was 100% worth it. The pork cutlet and shrimp were out of this world.
To walk it off we went shopping in Nihonbashi at **Yagicho Honten**, a dashi shop that’s been open for 9 generations, and **85 Hachigo**, a fermentation specialist inside of the Coredo department store (they also have an outpost in Osaka). We got supplies there to culture our own soy sauce. If you’re a fermentation nerd, definitely check out both stores.
In the afternoon, we walked around **Jiyugaoka** which was incredibly cute. Got coffee at the **Onibus** there which is gorgeous inside, peeked into Yanaka Coffee (you have to like a really dark roast), got desserts at Mont Blanc (mid) and **Bake Cheese Tart** (fire), and bought knick knacks at **Today’s Special.**
My partner got heat rash so we ran into Uniqlo for arm sleeves that saved the day.
After the huge fried lunch and the sweets I wasn’t too hungry, so we just got **Famichiki** before going home lol. My partner did end up stepping out later that night for takoyaki to knock it off his bucket list. (I had gone to **Gindako** on my last trip and learned I don’t love them.)
Day 6:
Woke up really early to take the Alpico bus to **Kamikochi** for the next few days.
The bus stopped at a really nice rest stop right on Lake Suwa that had a viewing platform and onsen, plus specialty local snacks.
Once we arrived in Kamikochi we hit the trail immediately to start our multi day hike up to the top of **Mt. Yari**. We hiked about 4 hours from the bus terminal to **Yarisawa Lodge** for our first night. You must arrive by 4-5pm at mountain huts in Japan, and it’s strictly lights out by 8! It was an amazing experience to stay there; I think a Japanese mountain hut should be on everybody’s bucket list.
Day 7:
Today was the hardest day. We hiked from Yarisawa Lodge all the way to the top of Mt. Yari. It was extremely rainy and windy, and my legs were shaking with fear during the steep, icy, snow covered crossings near the top. The **Yarigatake Sanso** hut, just below the summit, was otherworldly, though. We huddled around their kerosene heater reading books all afternoon and tried our best to dry our rain and snow soaked clothes and boots in the drying room. Since it’s so remote, they don’t have showers and you can only plug in your devices for a few designated hours. The food at both huts was shockingly good considering the surroundings. We fell asleep in our bunks to the sound of the wind howling outside and rain pelting the hut.
Day 8:
We had planned to hike from Yarigatake Sanso down to Shinhotaka Onsen, but the storm made the river crossings along that route impassable. The staff at the hut were pretty adamant that we not risk it. We had to go back down the way we came – disappointing, but better safe than sorry. Once we reached Kamikochi we took a bus to our ryokan for the next couple days, **Shinhotaka Onsen Yarimikan.** The Hirayu Onsen bus stop had a foot bath – I almost cried with relief at that thing.
Yarimikan was incredibly beautiful. They had like half a dozen outdoor baths with stunning views of the alps and a rushing river close enough to dip your toes in.
The meals there were so decadent. We splurged on the **Hida beef** option since we were in Gifu after all and really recommend that you find a way to try it. Our room was enormous, too.
Day 9:
In the morning the ryokan had an interactive mochi making demonstration which was hilariously corny. Can’t argue with fresh mochi covered in syrup and kinako though.
We spent the whole day at the ryokan just cycling between the different baths. We had udon and tempura for lunch and then another gigantic kaiseki dinner. Every long vacation needs at least one day of total rest, IMO.
We would have liked to ride the **Shinhotaka Ropeway** but it was closed for maintenance during our trip.
Day 10:
We took the bus to **Matsumoto** and stored our bags at the station so we could walk around. Got coffee at **Alps** and **Five Eleven**, milk bread (sort of like a maritozzo) at **Marunaka**, and soba that wasn’t memorable (I’m still chasing the high of a yuba soba I had in Nikko last time.) We spent a couple hours shopping for pottery and vintage clothes. Our favorite shops were **ChuPa** and **陶片木.**
I wanted to go to **Komatsu Bakery** and the **Matsumoto City Museum of Art*, but both were closed the day we went. FYI Amex Concierge will help you reserve a milk bread at Komatsu!
We visited the **Matsumoto-jo** castle grounds then took an early afternoon JR train back to Tokyo. There’s definitely enough in Matsumoto to fill a day trip. I would have liked to visit **Takayama** as well, but didn’t have enough time.
In Tokyo we met up with our friend for dinner at **Ebisu Yokocho**. I loved the seafood skewers stall – tuna cheek skewers, grilled mentaiko, and crab croquette were our favorites. The stalls do require you to order a drink, but if you don’t want alcohol, soft drinks count. They also have a cover charge to discourage you from hopping between stalls.
We got ice cream afterward at **Japanese Ice Ouca**. I still think about their hojicha milkshake! Well-deserved 3.72 on Tabelog.
Day 11:
Flew to **Ishigaki**. We took only what we needed to Ishigaki and used a luggage transport service to deliver the rest of our bags to a locker at Haneda.
Got lunch at **Coco Curry**, coffee at **Klatch,** desserts at Ishigaki Labo bakery, and walked around **Euglena Mall**. Went to Maesato Beach at sunset (not the most scenic for a walk, but closeby to Ishigaki city) then had dinner at **Eiko** seafood izakaya. Can’t beat $3.50 for a 15-piece plate of sashimi!
We stayed at **Hostel SunTerrace** and would recommend it. The location wasn’t amazing but it was inexpensive, really clean, bright, and modern, and we had a private room that was big for Japanese standards. They had cold sanpin cha on tap that I quickly became addicted to.
Day 12:
My partner went scuba diving with **Viking Scuba Kabira.** The reefs were not in great shape but he saw a shark, turtles, sea snakes, and manta rays.
While he was gone I went to Euglena Mall for **local Royce chocolate** souvenirs (Ishigaki shio and kokutoh flavors) and got lunch at Yaeyama Soba. I ate an entire box of these amazing Royce spicy cheese cookies by myself!
When my partner got back from diving we drove up to **Ishikawa Farm** for the BEST Okinawan tropical fruit smoothies, **Hirakubozaki lighthouse** for amazing views, and **Hirano** and **Hirakubo beach**. Ishigaki reminded us a lot of Hawaii. We saw lots of Japanese tourists around with tote bags and stuff from Hawaii so it definitely attracts the same crowd.
We got dinner at the same izakaya since the place we had planned to go was unexpectedly closed.
Day 13:
We picked up breakfast pastries at Seven Bells and spent the morning snorkeling with Viking. Seeing giant **manta rays** up close was a major bucket list item for me and the reason I chose to come to Ishigaki in the first place. We saw so many!
In the afternoon we drove around the island in our rental car and hit a bunch of stops:
– **Yonehara beach**
– a roadside stand to try **Okinawan pineapple**
– ice cream at **Miru Miru Honpo.** They have a gorgeous hill out back covered with shimmering Ghibli grass.
– **Arakawa falls**, a waterfall with a swimming hole, shady with cool water!
– a bunch of local pottery shops, though nothing stood out.
For dinner we went to **Sumiyakiniku Ishidaya** where we had made a reservation the night before. **Ishigaki beef** was just as awesome as Hida. This place was “only” a 3.55 on Tabelog so I’m sure you could do even better.
Day 14:
Got breakfast at Seven Bells again, went to the **Adventure Pi Pi** office to book our Iriomote tour for the next day, then took the ferry to **Taketomi**. There was a mad rush for bicycle rentals as soon as the ferry alit, so if you go, don’t dawdle! We biked around the island, stopped at all the main beaches, got really good Yaeyama soba and Spam musubi at **Takenoko** for lunch and then ferried back. Taketomi is an absolutely gorgeous and charming little island. This was my favorite day of the whole trip. I can’t overstate how beautiful the beaches were.
In Ishigaki we went to Funakura no Sato for dinner. Overpriced and mid. That’s what I get for looking at Google Maps and not Tabelog!
Once it was fully dark we went up to Banna Park to stargaze. For seriously good stargazing you need to spend the night on Iriomote, but this was nice enough for something to do close to town. A spooky one-way winding road to get up there at night though.
Day 15:
Day trip to **Iriomote**. The ferry from Ishigaki was quite expensive – 72 US roundtrip. We met up with our tour at the ferry dock and spent the day hiking and “canyoning” with them. Beware if you are not a fan of high jumps, their canyoning tour is literally just jumping into rivers from increasingly higher rocks.
We got taco rice before getting back on the ferry which was…interesting.
For dinner we went to **せんべろ風土** izakaya in Ishigaki and loved it. Everyone was so friendly, probably because it was a senbero lol. Our seatmate even shared dishes with us. I developed a real love for **sea grapes** while in Ishigaki and everywhere seemed to have them. Mozuku seaweed on the other hand, was not a fan.
We tried getting **Beni imo** tarts from **Okashi Gouten** afterward but they were sold out unfortunately. We did pick up some Hi Chew made with **shikuwasa** (local Okinawan citrus).
Day 16:
Flew back from Ishigaki to HND.
Haneda was absolutely mobbed so I ditched my original plans to venture into Tokyo during my layover. I got udon at Tsurutontan while my partner got **Setagaya** ramen which was better, cheaper, and had a shorter line. I also went to the Delta Sky Club after security but didn’t get the hype about the food there. Just go to **Rokurinsha**!
by thedevilsivy