Good afternoon dear JapanTravel members, we are planning a trip to Japan this year and I hope you could shed some light on the questions/thoughts/plans we have. It will be just the two of us. All the information is below. Apologies in advance for lots of words and inevitable misspellings, I am extremely excited and want to make sure I do not miss anything. Do let me know if you have any questions and thank you so much for your time!
**Itinerary:**
**Day 1, 24 Nov (Sunday): Tokyo, explore Shibuya** 10:25am landing time in Haneda, travel to the hotel, settle in. A friend suggests Shibuya is a good place to book a hotel, because if we wanted to go out for a drink, lots of options there. Could be a challenge to find transport late at night if we were to live in a quiet place and went out for drinks elsewhere. Any other areas worth considering given the above? Will check out Shibuya crossing, Yoyogi Park and Hachiko statue. Will find a conveyor belt sushi perhaps Uobei Sushi for lunch. Dinner perhaps at Kaikaya by the Sea, not sure whether bookings are required in advance everywhere in Japan? Explore Nonbei Yokocho in the evening.
**Day 2, 25 Nov (Monday): Tokyo, autumn leaves in Shinjuku, Daikanyama, Nakameguro, Ebisu**
After breakfast off to Meiji Jingu Gaien with the Ginkgo avenue and then Shinjuku Gyoen. Then explore Omoide Yokocho and Shinjuku Golden Gai. Fit in the Kusama museum? Then explore Daikanyama potentially including Kyu Asakura House and off to Nakameguro and Ebisu Yokocho.
**Day 3, 26 Nov (Tuesday): Tokyo, day trip to Nikko, special dinner in Tokyo**
It’s my partner’s birthday today, so I may move Nikko day trip. Alternatively maybe do a private tour as a treat. Visit Toshogu Shrine, Lake Chuzenji, and Kegon Falls. Find some lunch in Nikko, perhaps Hippari Dako or just grab something with us on the way to Nikko or buy a snack there. In the afternoon do some more Nikko exploring and then back to Tokyo. Freshen up and a special dinner for my partner. Any suggestions would be welcome. Perhaps something with a view or incorporating a show.
**Day 4, 27 Nov (Wednesday): Tokyo, Tsukiji Outer Market, Studio Ghilbi Museum, Kappabashi Kitchen Town, explore Kichijoji, Shimokitazawa**
Start with Tsukiji Outer Market, then off to Studio Ghibli museum (need to book tickets, but I think they are released one month in advance, any tips on booking it would be appreciated). Then explore Harmonica Yokocho in Kichijoji. Then off to Kappabashi Kitchen Town to get some Japanese kitchen knives. Back to Shibuya via Shimokitazawa. A drink at The Bellwood. Need to send our luggage to the ryokan in Hakone.
**Day 5, 28 Nov (Thursday): Hakone**
Breakfast then catch Shinkansen to Odawara, get the Hakone Free Pass (not including the train to and from Tokyo) then transfer to another train to Hakone-Yumoto. From there get a bus to Amasake Chaya tea house. Walk Old Tokaido road down to the shore of Lake Ashi (50 mins) to Moto-Hakone, enjoy the view of Mt Fuji if lucky. Walk along the shore to Hakone Shrine and the lake Torii Gate. Take the pirate ship to Togendai (30 mins). Take ropeway to Owakudani, try the black eggs and charcoal ice cream. Take cable car to Gora, then a short train to Hakone Open Air Museum. After that to onsen ryokan, most probably in Gora. Bathe and enjoy a kaiseki dinner. Bliss.
**Day 6, 29 Nov(Friday): Travel to Kyoto, Gion district**
Breakfast at the ryokan, final bath. Gora to Odawara train, then catch a Shinkansen to Kyoto (2-3 hours). Need to decide what to do with the luggage, perhaps it’s ok to take it with us on the train for this leg of the journey. Check in at the hotel in Kyoto, wonder around the local area, visit the Gion district.
**Day 7, 30 Nov (Saturday): Kyoto, Kinkaku-ji, Bamboo grove, Nijo Castle, Pontocho Alley**
Visit Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavilion). Explore Ryoan-ji, famous for its Zen rock garden. Enjoy shojin ryori at Tenryu-ji in Arashiyama. Wander through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. Visit the Nijo Castle. Sample local dishes at an izakaya in downtown Kyoto. Visit Pontocho Alley, another atmospheric place to walk and possibly spot geisha.
**Day 8, 1 Dec (Sunday): Kyoto, Himeji, Koko-en Gardens**
Breakfast, then train to Himeji. Visit Himeji Castle. Eat Himeji’s famous katsu curry near the castle. Explore the adjoining Koko-en Gardens. Return to Kyoto. Quiet dinner in Kyoto.
**Day 9, 2 Dec (Monday): Kyoto, Fushimi Inari Taisha, Tofuku-ji Temple, Kyoto National Museum**
Visit Fushimi Inari Taisha. Explore Tofuku-ji Temple for autumn colors. Enjoy lunch in the Fushimi district, trying some local sake. Visit the Kyoto National Museum. Experience a traditional tea ceremony and dinner in a machiya (wooden townhouse)? Are we choosing the best temples to visit, especially to enjoy the autumn leaves?
**Day 10, 3 Dec (Tuesday): Kyoto, Sanjusangen-do, Kinosaki Onsen**
Visit Sanjusangen-do for its 1001 statues of Kannon. Have an early lunch in Kyoto before departing. Travel from Kyoto to Kinosaki Onsen (about 2.5-3 hours by direct train). Check in to the onsen ryokan. Stroll around Kinosaki in a yukata, sampling a few public baths, see if we can some crab dishes which will be in season. If enough time, get a private onsen for an hour. Kaiseki dinner at the ryokan, a drink and a final bath in town.
**Day 11, 4 Dec (Wednesday): Morning in Kinosaki, Osaka**
Breakfast and bath at the ryokan. Final stroll around the town. Travel from Kinosaki Onsen to Osaka (approx. 2.5 hours by train). Spend the afternoon exploring Umeda district. Explore Osaka’s food in Dotonbori (takoyaki and okonomiyaki). Explore Namba in the evening. Send luggage to Kanazawa hotel.
**Day 12, 5 Dec (Thursday): Nara, Kanazawa**
Take a train to Nara (approx. 45 minutes from Osaka). Visit Todai-ji Temple to see the Great Buddha, then roam through Nara Park. Enjoy lunch in Nara, trying specialties like kakinoha sushi. Back to Osaka and a train to Kanazawa. Check into our hotel in Kanazawa. Enjoy a quiet evening exploring the neighbourhood.
**Day 13, 6 Dec (Friday): Day trip to Shirakawa-go/Takayama**
Depart early for Shirakawa-go or Takayama (about 1.5 hours by bus from Kanazawa). Explore the gassho-zukuri farmhouses in Shirakawa-go, and the beautifully preserved old town of Takayama. Sample regional dishes like Hida beef in Takayama. Return to Kanazawa.
**Day 14, 7 Dec (Saturday): Kanazawa, Omicho Market, Kenrokuen Garden, train to Tokyo**
Head to Omicho Market first thing in the morning. Visit Kenrokuen Garden. Train to Tokyo (about 2.5 hours by Shinkansen). Perhaps a bento box for the journey.
**Day 15, 8 Dec (Sunday): Early afternoon flight from Haneda**
Does this itinerary sound good or would you suggest any changes?
I think the Osaka – Nara – Kanazawa – Takayama is packed, but was hoping to be able to try some lovely local food specialties and of course appreciate the architectural heritage conservation. I appreciate a day trip to both Takayama and Shirakawa-go is not doing it justice, but we love heritage architecture, so figured it would be interesting for us to see even if briefly, so that we can decide if we would like to visit again in the future. Osaka for us is mainly interesting from the gastronomic point of view, so we thought a brief visit would do (I’m sure there is much more to do and see in such a big city, just sharing our point of view and happy to be convinced otherwise).
**Leaving out Hiroshima:**
Alternatively, we considered going to Hiroshima and Miyajima island, but for some reason do not necessarily feel like we are eager to go this time around. It’s probably heavy and I’m sure life-changing, but I would love to do that next time we are in Japan, when we can visit it properly on the way to Kyushu island. But do let me know if you think it is absolutely essential on the first trip to Japan. The Great Torii Gate in Miyajima is spectacular, but we will see Torii of Hakone Shrine at Lake Ashi. We will also see deer in Nara. Neither of those are the same as going to Miyajima, I am sure, but thought perhaps similar enough for the first timers. Adding Hiroshima would require cutting Kanazawa out, but Kanazawa excites me for its preserved old town and fresh seafood.
**Onsen/Hiking:**
We also wanted to do a small hike, so Hakone seemed perfect, especially with a lovely onsen at the end of it. The reason we also really want to go to Kinosaki is that it is a proper onsen town, with lots of public baths, where you can walk around in a yukata. Hakone is more about doing the loop, hike, hopefully see Mt Fuji, perhaps pay a visit to a museum then relax at an onsen ryokan. Any alternative suggestions regarding a light hike in beautiful nature and/or alternative beautiful onsen town that would be suitable for our itinerary are very welcome. I considered Kusatsu as an alternative to Kinosaki, because it has a wonderful Sainokawara Rotenburo, which is something that gets me really excited and seems missing in Kinosaki, if I am not mistaken. It’s a similar sort of effort as Kinoaski, just on the Tokyo end, where we are already doing Hakone. Is it worth reworking the itinerary to fit in a trip to Kusatsu? It might have to be at the expense of Kinosaki, which is just so gorgeous even if without a rotenburo in nature.
**Ryokan check-in/out, luggage:**
Would also appreciate any advice you have around check-in/check-out times for onsen ryokans. Would love to maximise the time we can spend exploring in Kinosaki for example, including trying some public baths, however don’t want to arrive too early before we get given the yukata. In Hakone, we would ideally travel there from Tokyo in the morning and do the loop, but what would one do with the suitcase? Generally interested in what people normally do with their luggage. Leave in a locker somewhere? Forward it to the ryokan?
**Booking:**
When it comes to booking accommodation, would you start booking now? I checked some ryokans and it looks like some are listed as booked for end of November/December however a closer inspection showed that they are in fact not yet open for booking so far in advance. I think you can currently book for October, so looks like 6 months in advance. Do let me know if I am mistaken and there are other ways to book in Japan (any japan specific website or standard ones like booking dot com ok?). Really hope we did not spectacularly miss the boat!
**Travel/Car rental:**
The above is just a rough outline – as you can see I haven’t yet properly planned specific activities. I think we would like to get the itinerary right and book the accommodation, then plan out our days. We will be buying JR pass so would love to use it as much as possible, however if there is something absolutely unmissable and requires some additional travel not covered by the pass, I am happy to consider. I do not think we would be looking to hire a car, because it’s our first time in Japan, however we are from the UK, so drive on the same side of the road, which will make our life easier. If it makes sense to hire a car, please let me know which leg of the trip it would be of help. A bit weary of parking in particular.
**Unmissable food, festivals and activities:**
I am relatively clued up on the food to try in Japan, however, I wonder if there is anything very specific to the time we will be there that I am not aware of. For example, I recently discovered that December is crab season, so it might be possible to try local crab delicacies in Kinosaki or Kanazawa for example. Anything else I should add to my list? I am aware of Hida beef in Takayama and sushi/seafood in Kanazawa, which is part of the reason we would love to visit those places. When it comes to festivals, I am currently clueless and would really appreciate any pointers. Would probably not travel specifically for a festival, but maybe I am not aware of something obvious or relatively easy to fit in. Finally, is there something very specific that’s unmissable, for example a geisha experience or Sumo or kabuki.
**Autumn foliage:**
Fingers crossed we will see some beautiful autumn foliage in the two weeks, however I have not planned anything with a view to maximise those opportunities. I just hope we will see enough by virtue of travelling around, hiking, visiting parks, however, please let me know if there is something wrong with this plan.
Thank you so so much!
by Ludwigthegay