Just got back from 2 weeks in Japan and thought I’d write a trip report because I found them really useful whilst organising. I (F28) went with my boyfriend (M30) and we had an amazing time. We definitely packed more into the first half of the trip and could have made more of our last 5 days and time in Tokyo but we didn’t want to end the holiday exhausted.
Some things it may be useful to know-
**Travel**
The only travel we prebooked was the Shinkansen to Tokyo so we could definitely get seats on the Fuji side (always D&E). We picked up ICOCA cards at Miyajimaguchi with no issue and they work all over – if you arrive in Tokyo you’ll need a different card and I think there’s issues getting them. IC cards work on all trains but for Shinkansens and Limited Express trains you need to buy a ticket – we did it at the machines in the station with no issues.
We just used googlemaps to figure out how to get around and it worked fine – it tells you what sort of train it’s suggesting so you know if you’ll need tickets. One thing though – my googlemaps would often act as though it was offline even though I had data but if you save it for offline, you shouldn’t have an issue.
**Food**
We mainly ate at Izakayas in the evenings which are essentially small plates restaurants. We’d ordered drinks and a few dishes and then order some more with a second round of drinks. There’s usually rice on the menu that you’re meant to order at the end of the meal to soak up the alcohol but we filled ourselves up without it.
At most ramen restaurants and some others there’s a machine which you put cash into and select what you want (usually pictures to help). The machine prints out tickets and you give these to a member of staff who’ll then show you where to sit.
We generally just walked around and looked for a place that looked busy and was mainly filled with Japanese people – all the food we ate was really good so it worked. Apparently, Japanese people tend to rate things lower than you’d expect so places with 3.5 on google would still be really good (and possibly better than places rated higher because it probably means that it’s a more local place).
**Souvenirs**
I collected stamps as we travelled and I’m really pleased I did. All train stations are supposed to have one and then a lot of tourist attractions do to – they’re generally near the ticket office / barriers but you often needed to ask a member of staff (especially at the smaller places). Staff all seemed to be prepared for the question and happy to help. I didn’t buy my notebook until we were in Japan which means I missed out on the one in the airport.
You can also collect Goshuin in temples where they’ll stamp and do calligraphy unique to that temple. You can buy special books at the temples which unfold so you can see all them all at once. I got one but the second one I saw was 800 yen and I panicked that it would end up being expensive so didn’t bother – in reality I think most were under 500 yen. I think it would have been a really unique souvenir to have.
Onto the report –
**Day 1 – Hiroshima > Miyajima**
We landed in Hiroshima at around 10:30am from Seoul so no jetlag. We got the bus into the city (bought tickets from a machine with cash) and left our bags in a locked in the bus station. We grabbed a couple bits in Uniqlo then went to Okonomimura for Okonomiyaki – we just went up the lift to a random floor and chose a random spot – it was really good!
Then we went to the Peace Park and museum – it was a Saturday and the museum was really busy so we didn’t spend as much time there as we probably would have liked but it was a really good museum and the park is nice to wander round. We walked up to the Atomic Bomb dome. This probably took a couple of hours but we could have taken longer.
Then went to the Pokemon centre (essentially just a Pokemon shop) and for some reason picked up our bags. We walked to Osaka castle and looked at it from the outside – probably not necessary but was nice to see our first castle.
We caught the ferry to Miyajima from near the atomic bomb dome at around 4:30pm – it’s more expensive than doing it via public transport but more convenient.
We got to Miyajima and checked into our Ryokan. I didn’t realise that you needed to book dinner a day in advance so we had to go out and find a restaurant that stayed open after 5pm – a lot harder than you’d expect! But we found somewhere and the food was really nice so we were happy. If I was doing it again though I’d make sure to get dinner at the Ryokan because it seemed to do good food.
Being on the island at night was really nice and peaceful – we sat looking at the Torii gate at the sunset and it got dark. We both agreed that if we’d just come to Miyajima on a day trip and experienced all the crowds we probably wouldn’t have enjoyed it that much but it was one of the highlights of the trip.
**Day 2 – Miyajima > Onomichi**
We had breakfast at the Ryokan – it was a traditional Japanese breakfast and there were so many different components it was great! We climbed Mount Misen and the views were incredible. If you go up the cable car, make sure to walk to the other look out point because it’s higher and I assume gets a much better view. The walk took us about 2 hours. After the walk, we stopped at Daishoin temple.
We picked up our bags from the Ryokan, grabbed some street food for lunch and said goodbye to Miyajima. We got the ferry to Miyajimaguchi, picked up ICOCA cards and got trains to Onomichi – I think they’re actually on the same line but we hadn’t figured out the trains yet (and I wanted a stamp) so we went to Hiroshima station first.
We were staying in a hostel just under Senkoji temple so we walked up the hill, dumped our bags and went up to look at the temple. It seems like a lot of places in Onomichi also closed early (although it was a Sunday) but we managed to find a ramen place that was open and it was amazing.
**Day 3-4 – Shimanami Kaido**
We decided to do the cycle across two days because I was worried about how I’d get on. In the end we did 60km on the first day and 40 on the second – I was pretty tired by the end of each day but not enough for it to not be enjoyable. All the hills on the actual route were very manageable – to get onto the bridges you normally needed to do just under 1km of very steady incline. We did some detours which had some harder hills – I got off to walk twice but never for very long. I’d say I’d definitely be at the lower end of fitness in terms of people who decide to do a 2 day cycle on holiday.
We got our bikes through Shimanami bike rental – I reserved them in advance on their website. I’ve seen some people complain about the quality of the bikes but I think they were decent. My boyfriend’s gears weren’t working at first so he went back and the were very apologetic and gave him a new bike when they couldn’t fix it easily. The saddles were uncomfortable but everything else was fine.
We used the map we were given for navigation and it was super easy. We randomly chose the detours without thinking too much so we missed most of the things people usually say you should detour for but we had an amazing time and I think doing it over 2 days so we could detour was definitely worth it.
Can’t find a version of the map we used to give proper details but we did the recommended route and a sections marked as orange. I really recommend stopping at Kousanji which has a temple and sculptures. We grabbed lunch nearby (there were a lot less restaurants / cafes on route than I was expecting) and then went round Takaneshima Island which wasn’t marked as a route but we thought we’d explore. We saw barely anyone and it was nice to cycle round – some tougher hills but not too bad.
We stayed just over the bridge on Ikata island – if I’d been more organised, I’d have booked somewhere on Oshima but there was nowhere convenient when I booked and we didn’t end up exploring that island at all because I was too tired by the end of the first day and didn’t want to commit to too much at the beginning of the second day. There was only one place open for dinner but we had some great Okonomiyaki.
We started the second day by going to Hirakiyama park which I’d definitely recommend – although this was definitely the toughest climb it was still manageable with only a few minutes walking from me. We had the whole place to ourselves and the views were amazing.
We went off the main recommended route to go to Yoshiumi rose park because they were still blooming – it was really nice to wander round and the cycle there was really good as well. There was one steep hill but it was mostly fine. We stopped just before the last bridge for a seafood bbq where you selected what you wanted and then bbqed it yourself – it was a nice experience and we managed not to make ourselves ill. Then it was over the last long bridge and then a longish cycle on the roads into Imabari to return the bikes.
We thought we’d grab some more food in Imabari but nothing seemed to open until at least 17:30 so we got the bus to Fukuyama (we bought tickets in advanced at the counter but you could pay the driver in cash when you got off) then the train to Himeji. We were pretty tired so we just got some ramen and went to sleep but Himeji seemed like a nice city.
**Day 5 – Himeji > Kyoto**
We left our bags in lockers at the station and went to the castle. It was nice to wander round but if I’m honest I was expecting more from the inside as lots of people said this castle in particular was worth going in. I think I’d probably have been disappointed if I did a day trip specifically but I’m glad we went. We also walked around the gardens nearby and that was nice. We grabbed some lunch at a place near the station and got on the local train to Kyoto at around 13:30.
Once in Kyoto we checked in (our hotel was between Nishiki market and the river) and went to pick up some bikes from eco trip (we hadn’t prebooked) – we had to pay for the full day even though it was the afternoon but we wanted them for early the next morning so it was fine. They give you a map which highlights parking – we parked them overnight in a private parking place near the hotel (was pretty cheap – you put your bike on a rack and it gets locked in, when you collect it you put the number of the rack into a machine and pay and it unlocks it).
We wandered round Gion and the area round the river and had dinner in an Izakaya.
**Day 6 – Kyoto**
We cycled to Fushimi Inari and probably got there around 8:30am – as expected it was already pretty busy. It did get less busy the further up you went but it was still pretty busy – you could get pics with no one else in but you had to be quick about taking the opportunities. We did the whole loop which I definitely think is worth it if you’re able – I think it took about 90 mins. When we got back down it was very busy.
We were worried about leaving the bikes in the parking of temples for too long so we tried to find the parking at Okazaki park but we couldn’t so we just left them in the free parking attached to the museum of Art – in hindsight we should have taken them with us rather than leaving them parked all afternoon.
We had lunch at Junsei a tofu restaurant where you got loads of different dishes with a focus on tofu – it was an enjoyable experience but the food wasn’t amazing (I’d still say it was worth it).
After lunch we walked to Nanzen-ji and Eikando temples – the latter had nice gardens. The we walked up the Philosopher’s Path (wasn’t that busy) and visited Honenin temple. Because we had to go back to the bikes, we walking back down the Philospher’s Path stopping off for a beer in a nice riverside place. This took us up to about 4:30pm.
We thought we’d visit the Imperial Palace on the way home to look from the outside but this was a mistake because it’s surrounded by walls and gravel. We went back to a similar area for the evening and went to a different Izakaya for dinner.
**Day 7 – Kyoto**
We cycled to Togetsukyo bridge and parked up our bikes. We visited the temple which had a We walked through the bamboo forest – I’m not sure if we missed something but it was a pretty short stretch and this whole area was really busy by 9:30am. We saw lots of bamboo on our trip so this wasn’t that special. But we did visit Okochi Sanso at the top which had really nice views – it was slightly more expensive to get in but the rest area had free tea and juice and was a nice place to sit for a bit. We went back to our bikes and cycled to Giogi temple and the streets beyond it – these were really nice and not too busy. We cycled over to Daikaku-ji temple – by this point we were a bit bored on the inside of temples but we enjoyed the gardens. They’ve all burred into one a bit but I think it was this one that had a nice lake and barely anyone walking round it even though the temple itself seemed busy. We cycled onto Ryoan-ji (probably could have skipped given how many we’d seen) and then Kinkaku-ji which was really busy at 14:30.
We cycled to drop the bikes back – I really enjoyed having the bikes. Cycling through the streets of Kyoto felt like you were seeing more of the city and it made this day way more convenient. We stopped in on the Pokemon centre and then spent the early evening sat by the river soaking in the atmosphere. We had reservations at Yakiyasai Isoya because it was recommended by a friend and it didn’t disappoint – it’s an Izakaya but the dishes were a bit to different to what you see on most menus and everything was really good.
**Day 8 – Kyoto > Osaka**
We started the morning going to Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka – we probably got there around 10am on Saturday morning which was a mistake because it is was really busy.
We got the train to Umeda Osaka – we grabbed lunch near the station and visited the Pokemon centre and Uniqlo.
We were staying near Kuromon Ichiba market so we got the train there and checked in. We spent the evening around Dotonburi – we went to the Silver Ball Planet which had loads of pinball machines and we went to bar Shiki where we were made really good cocktails but they took a while to come.
**Day 9 – Nara**
We weren’t sure if we wanted to go to Nara – especially because it was a Sunday – but it ended up being one of the best days of the trip – probably because we had low expectations.
We got the train and arrived around 11am. We didn’t feed the deer but if you’re going to, I would wait until you’ve walked a bit because it seems like most people bought food as soon as they saw it and it was really crowded. We walked to Ara pond and there was a big group of deer and no one else around for about 5 mins. There were also lots of deer all over.
We walked up Kasugayama and the views were incredible. We walked up through the forest and barely saw anyone then walked down with the views. We visited Todaiji which has a massive Buddha statue inside which was cool and had sushi wrapped in leaves for lunch around 14:30 (apparently it’s a local speciality – not sure what the leaves offered but it was nice). We got some mochi from the famous shop – it was red bean which isn’t our favourite but it was good.
We got the train back in the direction of Osaka but got off at Ikoma – I really recommend! We got the funicular up to the top of the hill to a small theme park. To go on rides you bought a ticket at the right price and gave it to the people running the ride (or there was a wristband if you were going on more rides). We went on a ride which took you round and you had amazing views down. There’s also a view point and benches so we sat there for a while. Stupidly we stayed until closing time (5pm) so the queue for the funicular back down was really long. We decided to walk down to Hozanji where you switch trains anyway. The path wasn’t great under foot but it wasn’t took long a walk. Walking down meant that we got into the temple from the back and we didn’t see anyone. This was one of our favourite temples (possibly because it was so empty). We walked down to the station (another benefit of walking down was avoiding the steepish climb from the temple to the station). The views were so nice that we decided to walk all the way down to Ikoma station – which is saying something because our legs were pretty tired at this point.
We went to another Izakaya in the evening and went to an Irish pub to see Leeds lose the championship playoff.
**Day 10 – Osaka > Tokyo**
We went to Shin-Osaka to drop our bags off and pick up our Shinkansen tickets which I ordered through the JR-West website. I couldn’t figure out how to get them from the machines (I think I needed to put my card in but it wasn’t clear) but I went to the information desk and got them easily.
Once sorted we went to the Expo Commemorative Park which was a really nice way to spend a few hours. I reckon it’d be amazing when the cherry blossoms are out or autumn leaves but we had a nice time wandering round without it. There a museum about the Expo that’s definitely worth going to if you visit.
Our Shinkansen left at 4pm and we were overly cautious and got to the station with an hour to spare. We picked up bento boxes and got on the train. We could see a bit of Fuji but it was mainly covered by cloud.
We were staying in Shinjuku so we got the subway to our hotel and checked in and explored the area (very busy) and had tea.
**Day 11 – Tokyo**
It was rainy today so we did inside things – luckily we’d already booked teamlabs planets for 2pm. We spent the morning at Tokyo National Museum and I really enjoyed the main exhibition. Then we made our way to teamlabs – I was sceptical about how much we’d enjoy it but it was actually a fun way to spend a rainy afternoon. We’re not big picture people but it was fun to walk around. You do have to take your shoes off and walk through water which comes halfway up the shin – this didn’t really add anything to the experience in my opinion but it wasn’t bad.
We went to Akihabara and wandered round the shops and capsule game places. It started pouring it down like you wouldn’t believe so we went back to our hotel, changed and went in the nearest place for food that we could see.
**Day 12 – Lake Kawaguchi**
Today was meant to be the best for viewing Fuji so we got the bus from Shinjuku to Kawaguchiko (booked 2 days in advanced). We weren’t sure whether to get the train or the bus but the morning trains were all booked up when we looked so that made our decision for us – the bus did the job and I think it was a good option. We arrive around 10am.
We decided to do a hike up to the top of the ropeway and then onto the Arakura pavilion – I’d probably advise against this as it was a lot of walking through forest and not many views of Fuji – but it was still enjoyable. You could walk up from the pavilion for maybe half an hour and get good views but it seemed like no one was doing it so it wasn’t at all busy. It was like 3 hours of actual walking but took us a lot longer because we were stopping and hoping the cloud would clear from Fuji. In hindsight, I think we’d have hired bikes and cycled round the lake but obviously we’ve no idea what that would have been like. We hired a pedalo and went out on the lake and this have us our best views of Fuji by far because it had cleared up quite a bit. Our bus back was at 5pm and we could have definitely spent longer in the area.
**Day 13 – Tokyo**
We went to the Shinjuku National Garden in the morning and that was nice to wander round – we got some onigiri from one of the cafes and ate it in one of the pavilions from breakfast which was really nice. We went up the Tokyo Metropolitan Building and you get really amazing views over Tokyo. We could make out where Fuji was but it was covered in clouds. We walked over to Harajuku and wandered down there looking at the shops and capsule toy stores then went onto Shibuya. We sat in a bar looking down over the crossing which was cool and visited the Pokemon centre (surprise) and the Don Quijote but by this point we were both fed up of shopping. We had tea at an Izakaya and then went to the SG club which did good (if slightly expensive) cocktails.
**Day 14 – Tokyo**
Today was a weird one because it was meant to rain all day so we thought it would be a bit of a write off but it ended up being fine. We went to the museum of science and nature because I thought I’d seen that it had a cool exhibition on but apparently I dreamt that. My boyfriend still wanted to wander round – it was a decent museum if that’s what you’re looking for. It had lots of animals from around Japan (obviously stuffed or fossilised).
Then we went to Tsukiji market because I wanted to have fatty tuna and sea urchin and it seemed like a good place to just try a bit. We just went to a stall that had no one there because I felt sorry for the old couple running it – probably not the best way to get a good deal but the sushi was good.
We walked around Hamarikyu gardens which were nice and then went to see the NTV big clock designed by Miyazaki – we’d been too disorganised to get tickets to the Ghibli park or museum so this was a consolation. We watched the show at 3pm – it was nothing special but it fit with our plans so it was worth it. We then went to the advertising museum which is small but free and it was cool looking at the old posters.
Finally we walked over to Tokyo tower and decided to go up to the main deck. We realised that it would have been better to go for sunset so we just decided to chill up there until it went dark and it was definitely a good idea. We went back to Shinjuku for dinner.
**Day 15 – Tokyo**
We decided to go to parkrun this morning because we’ve never done one outside of England – we opted for the one in Hikarigaoka park because it made sense with our plans. It was a nice run and all the volunteers were really friendly. They start at 8am in Japan FYI. Then we went over to Sunshine city to go to the big Pokemon centre and a sylvanian families shop. We grabbed lunch in the mall and then headed to Shimokitazawa because a friend had said it was a cool neighbourhood. There was a market on and a craft beer area which was fun to explore. There were so many good vintage shops in this area (although they were all selling the sort of stuff you’d see in England). We headed back to the hotel and then went out for our last night in Tokyo. I kind of wish we’d planned it more and booked somewhere but we ended up going for Monja (I think Tokyo’s version of Okonomyaki) which we cooked ourselves on a hotplate so we had a good time. We went to Golden Gai and got a drink and called it a night.
**Day 16 – end**
Our flight was as 2pm so we just had a lie in and then went straight to the airport.
by Status-Inevitable925