Mid Trip Itinerary Help

Hi there. I've gone to Japan a few times at this point, but on this trip will be taking my mother for 2 weeks. She's never been before and may not go again so I'm trying to fit in as much as I can. That said she is in her late 60s so I don't want to pack too much in. I was curious for some advice on my time between Tokyo & Kyoto. We'll spend the first 4 days in Tokyo, have 3 nights, then go to Kyoto for 5 nights and end in Hakone. 

My mother is is mainly interested in seeing changing leaves if possible, eating great food, riding trains & seeing the countryside, going to an onsen 2-3 times, and doing something a little off the beaten path. Though, we won't be renting a car. 

For the three nights in between Tokyo & Kyoto, currently the thought is:

Day 1: 
Travel from Tokyo -> Kurobe Gorge.
Drop bags off at Unazuki Onsen, take the train to Nekomata Station and back
Return to Unazuki Onsen and stay overnight

Day 2:
Travel from Unazuki Onsen -> Kanazawa. Arrive early & drop bags off at hotel and visit:
Kenrokuen, Omicho Market, Higashi – Chaya District

Day 3:
Wake up relatively early, visit the Ninja temple and nagamachi district. Then go to Kaga onsen in the afternoon and stay overnight at Hanamurasaki.

Day 4:
Travel to Kyoto

Mainly I'm not sure if Day 1 is worth doing. With the closures of Kurobe Gorge I'm not sure that it makes sense. I was trying to see if I could fit Takayama in instead but it seems a bit hard to get to from Tokyo (at least, travel time seems long). But maybe it would still be worth it? Other things that came to mind during this time (other than Takayama) were the Shin-Hokata Ropeway or another Onsen like Shibu Onsen. Otherwise extending time in Kanazawa for an extra day.

The other piece is just, the overall concern of how busy everything will be. The last time I was there was in 2022 and nothing was very crowded, so I just don't have a great feel for if the amount of people will make things less enjoyable or not. If there are suggestions or alternatives I'm absolutely open to adjustments.