Hi everyone! I (solo F) just got back from my trip and wanted to leave a report in case it helps anyone else plan their trip. A quick note: this is technically my second trip to Japan, but since my first was a study abroad semester, I've done most of the more "typical" things during my semester abroad (Ex. Shibuya Sky, Kiyomizu-dera, Osaka Castle). So that's why they're excluded from my itinerary.
Luggage: I brought one large suitcase, one duffle, and one backpack. The duffle was for overnight trips, which came in handy. Though I didn't plan on using luggage-forwarding, I ended up using it once my big suitcase got too heavy.
$$$: I brought the equivalent of $1000 USD in yen. I used it pretty sparingly and put most of my expenses on my credit card. I have the Bilt card and highly recommend it: no transaction fees and I stayed at most of the hotels for free by redeeming them with Bilt points. Really helped keep my costs down.
Shinkansen Reservation: for all trains on the main island, I used the SmartEx app to reserve seats with oversized luggage space. Pretty easy to do and no charges for changing the time of the train on the day of if you suddenly realize you can't make a train. I bought the All-Area Kyushu Rail 7-day pass, starting from the Hakata-Kumamoto trip. I did the math and it was much more worth it than buying each ticket separately. To reserve an over-sized luggage seat with the pass, just go to the JR Station Office and the staff there will help you do that.
Day 1: Arrive in Tokyo
- I arrived pretty late (6pm) so I just had dinner with a friend before tuning in for the night
- Hotel: APA Hotel Ningyosho Eki Kita
- Close to several different subway lines; 35-ish minute train ride to Disneyland
- Room was pretty small and it was hard to maneuver my big suitcase in the room.
- I chose it for its proximity to the Yurakucho BicCamera lol
Day 2: Tokyo Disneyland
- I downloaded the Tokyo Disney Resort App and used the Priority Pass & Standby Passes. I didn't need to get the paid Disney Premier Access and went on all the rides I wanted Ex. Pooh's Hunny Hunt, Beauty & the Beast, Big Thunder Mountain
- Highly recommend staying for the Electrical Parade Dreamlights show at night!
- Didn't go to the new Fantasy Springs since that was in Disneysea
- Paid out of pocket
Day 3: Kyoto/Kibune
- Took the 6:42 AM Shinkansen to Kyoto Stn. Dropped off bags at hotel, and then took transport to Kibune. Ended up just taking the bus there and the train back.
- Activities:
- Hirobun – read online that the wait time was long so I went here first to get a number
- The nagashi somen was pretty worth it as an experience, I think. Definitely had better food during the trip but I do recommend trying this.
- Hyoue Cafe – kawadoko-style cafe; can have desserts and lattes while dipping your feet into the river
- Kifune Shrine – really pretty but pretty overcrowded. Hard to get nice pictures of the scenery without getting 10000 people in.
- the mizu-mikuji was pretty cool (omikuji in water)
- also got a goshuin here
- I considered doing the hike to Kuramadera but I wasn't dressed for hiking and the bugs were pretty intense
- Went back to Kyoto around 4pm and spent a few hours shopping at Nishiki Market
- if you love spicy food, highly recommend Ochanoko saisai!
- Hirobun – read online that the wait time was long so I went here first to get a number
- Hotel: Kyoto Universal Hotel Karasuma
- It looked pretty close to Kyoto Station on Google maps, but in reality, it was a bit of a walk and not really accessible if you have a big luggage (it wasn't a big deal for me)
- Paid for with Bilt Points
- Included a half-board (2 meals) and had an onsen!
Day 4: Amanohashidate
- I left my big suitcase at the Kyoto hotel and just took my duffle bag on the bus. I booked the bus ticket in advance on this website. The trip was from 7:20 am to 9:25 am.
- I rented a bike from this store. The area was pretty bikeable in my opinion.
- Attractions:
- Amanohashidate View Land – took the monorail up (chair-lift was not working)
- had pudding
- tried and failed at the pottery toss
- Bought a "ryu no onegaidama" for Naraiji Temple
- Tried matanozoki (looking between your legs) – VERY cool experience
- Chionji Temple – got goshuin and the fan omikuji
- Biked across the sandbar
- Had lunch at Hashidate Chaya (located on the sandbar)
- Biked to Kasamatsu Park – went to Manai Shrine, Motoise Kono Jinja to get goshuin, and then took the chairlift up to another lookout
- Hiked to Naraiji from the park (half an hour?)
- I considered biking to Ine but it was getting a bit late and I had to return my bike back to the original shop to get my deposit back.
- Amanohashidate View Land – took the monorail up (chair-lift was not working)
- Hotel: Auberge Amanohashidate
- LOVED this spot! Paid out of pocket for the stay and dinner at the restaurant. But you get access to the big onsen at Amanohashidate Hotel next door. The bathrooms are shared but since each room has its own faucet, I didn't find this to be inconvenient.
Day 5: Uji
- I took the earliest bus (booked through same link as above) back to Kyoto Station and because the hotel was again, kind of far, I left my duffle in a coin locker at the station and went directly to Uji
- Attractions:
- Byodo-in Temple and Museum – pretty cool but looking back, I don't think it's necessary to wait around to go see the Phoenix Hall. It's just one room and the tour is given in Japanese. You do get a brief brochure in your preferred language but it's definitely not as thorough as what the guide is saying
- Uji-Shrine and Ujigami-Jinja – these two are next to each other and if you love bunnies, they have lots of cute rabbit motifs
- Walked along Uji River and to To-no-shima Island
- Tsuen Tea House – had lunch here (cha soba), had ice cream, and bought souvenirs
- Mimurotoji Temple – a bit of a walk from the other attractions (40min-1hr) but I thought it was nice
- Walked through Byodo-in Omotesando Street and bought souvenirs
Day 6: Osaka/Katsuoji
- Left Kyoto early-ish, dropped off stuff at hotel, and headed to Katsuoji. Be mindful of the bus times. Katsuoji took half a day, and I spent the rest of the day in the Namba area.
- Attractions:
- Katsuoji Temple – really cool experience seeing all the darumas and completing the 6 stamps postcard
- Lunch at Cinnamoroll Cafe in Namba
- Namba Yasaka Shrine
- Had dinner in Dotonbori
- went to Umeda Sky Building at night – the escalator was super cool
- Hotel: Sunny Stone Hotel
- I really liked the location: it was 8 minutes by subway from Shin-Osaka Station, so it was easy to get there right after getting off the shinkansen. Highly recommend staying near Shin-Osaka Station rather than Osaka Station.
- Paid for with Bilt Points
- Breakfast included
Day 7: Universal Studios Japan
- Went mostly for the Demon Slayer attraction lol
- I got on pretty much every ride without waiting a long time since I was a solo rider. If you're by yourself or don't mind sitting with strangers, this is a faster option and you don't need to buy a fast pass or anything.
- Kinopio Cafe – had lunch here. Reservations are pretty hard to get so try to get this as soon as possible.
- I got the time reservation for the Harry Potter and Nintendo areas
- Stayed for Halloween Nights – it was alright
Day 8: Himeji
- To be honest, there wasn't much to do here other than the castle. I considered doing Engyoji Temple and Mount Shosha too but was too tired.
- Attractions:
- Himeji Castle – they had a lot of English descriptions in the castle so it was quite interesting to learn about the castle and its inhabitants' stories
- Miyuki Shopping Street
- Koko-en Garden + Soju-an Teahouse
- Hotel: Himeji Station Universal Hotel South Exit
- included half-board and onsen
- Paid with Bilt Points
- Overall: I'm glad I got to see Himeji Castle since it's a national treasure, but I don't think I'd return again.
Day 9: Okunoshima (rabbit island)
- Had some transportation mishaps getting here. My shinkansen was delayed by 40 minutes and threw off all the local transportation I had planned. The local train doesn't run that often from Mihara Stn. (shinkansen) to Tadanoumi Port, where you catch the ferry to the island
- Remember to buy pellets at the cafe at Tadano-umi port! They don't sell pellets on the island. But also hold off on buying souvenirs at the cafe since there are more/better ones at the Island hotel shop.
- I bought 4 packs and ran out. The rabbits are especially hungry at dawn and twilight.
- The island is pretty small so I opted for walking rather than biking. Finished walking in half a day.
- The poison gas museum is just 2 rooms and everything is in Japanese so it wasn't a big part of my trip
- Overall: coming to rabbit island has been a dream of mine since I was very young since I love bunnies and owned bunnies. I'm glad I came but I met some activists(?) on the island who exposed me to issues such as how none of the money generated from tourists goes towards the rabbits' care (there were several rabbits who looked in need of vet care). The rabbit population is also noticeably smaller than Youtube videos from 10 years ago show.
- Hotel: Kyukamura Ohkunoshima
- Included a breakfast and dinner buffet, and two onsens
- Paid out of pocket
- Honestly one of the friendliest accommodations I've stayed at. The staff is very diverse and love engaging guests in conversation.
- The hotel gift shop also has great souvenirs
- There's also a cafe attached to the hotel. I didn't eat there but a lot of day-trippers did.
- The hotel also has a "umi hotaru show" at night, which was pretty cool
Day 10: Fukuoka
- Attractions:
- Tochoji Temple
- Kushida Shrine
- Sumiyoshi Shrine
- Walked around Canal City and Tenjin Underground
- Had Hakata ramen for dinner at a yatai stand
- Hotel: APA Hotel Hakata Gion Ekimae
- Very convenient location. Paid out of pocket. The room was much larger than the APA hotel I stayed at in Tokyo.
Day 11: Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, Amano Iwato Shrine & Takachiho Gorge
- OK so this was the part of my trip that I had the hardest time planning. These locations are technically in Kumamoto Prefecture and are pretty much inaccessible unless you have a car. There is a bus that goes to Takachiho, but the other 2 places can only be accessed by private vehicle.
- I ended up booking a tour through Klook:
- The bus picked us up at the Lawson outside Hakata Stn. and I thought it was a pretty good tour overall.
- The guide was super knowledgeable about the local specialties in each area we went to Ex. which souvenirs to buy, and which shops have lower prices. He also gave the tour in both English and Chinese, and also spoke perfect Japanese.
- The tour felt a little bit rushed at the first two stops (Kamishikimi and Amanoiwato) but looking back, I think the time allotted was enough.
- Attractions:
- Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine – the Demon Slayer Shrine!
- Really cool to look at but there's not much else in the area. We climbed up to the top of the mountain; there are lots of stairs.
- Inspired Hotarubi no Mori e
- Amano Iwato Shrine – cave where goddess Amaterasu hid herself
- I felt like we could have spent more time here: there's a main shrine, followed by a short hike, then a bunch of cafes, another short hike, and then the cave. There was a LOT to explore.
- The cave was really cool and the mango-rich milk ice cream at a cafe was really good. The guide also recommended eating "jitori" (happy fried chicken) and the local onigiri.
- The guide said we should buy umeshu (plum wine) from the shops as it was cheaper than buying it in Takachiho. Apparently Kumamoto makes the number one umeshu in all of Japan!
- Takachiho Gorge – highlight of the tour!
- The gorge is absolutely beautiful! I planned ahead and reserved a boat in advance. I was determined to get a boating slot and pretty much refreshed the website every day around 4 weeks in advance. I was the only one in the tour group to have a boat reservation and I think the view from the water up at the gorge was phenomenal – definitely recommend!
- The guide also provided commentary on Mount Aso when we passed by it
- Had dinner back at Hakata Station after we got back
- Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine – the Demon Slayer Shrine!
Day 12: Nanzoin Temple & Fukuoka City
- Attractions:
- Nanzoin – it was under construction when I went so unfortunately, there were boards up blocking most of the laying Buddha's body. You can only get up close to and touch the feet. You might've seen instagram reels of people going up to the head but it was completely cut off when I went.
- NOTE: there's a dresscode at the temple. All men and women must wear bottoms that end past their knees or else they're not allowed to enter. I just skirted pass the dress code but I did see the temple employees give others shawls to cover their lower bodies. Some tourists in tank tops (both men and women) were also told to cover up their shoulders with shawls.
- Went back to Fukuoka and had lunch at Ichiran Ramen's Main Branch
- Daimyo District
- Alice on Wednesdays – super cool fashion/accessory/souvenir store based on the story
- Had a nice walk in Fukuoka to the Fukuoka Castle Ruins, Ohori Park, and Maizuru Park.
- Did a bit of shopping back at Hakata Station at Amu Plaza and had dinner there
- Nanzoin – it was under construction when I went so unfortunately, there were boards up blocking most of the laying Buddha's body. You can only get up close to and touch the feet. You might've seen instagram reels of people going up to the head but it was completely cut off when I went.
Day 13: Dazaifu
- Attractions:
- Dazaifu Tenmangu – So the main shrine was also under construction lol but they erected a temporary shrine that had a greenhouse roof. That was pretty cool
- Mozenmachi & Tenjinsama-dori – street of souvenirs, a cool Starbucks, and Ghibli store
- Walked to Kamado Shrine (30 min walk) – LOTS of Demon Slayer fans left drawings on the votive tablets there
- I had a lot of time left and decided to go to Yanagawa
- This was a bit of a let-down tbh: I got there at around 2pm but the canal tours were already closing. I checked on Google but the locals there said that it's not entirely accurate
- I had lunch at Ganso Motoyoshiya which was great for unagi
- Headed back to Hakata Station and went to the Demon Slayer exhibit they had there
Day 14: Itoshima
- I might've been a bit too ambitious with my plans today but it was very worth it. I wanted to bike through Itoshima and hit all the highlights. I managed to do it but it was very hot and tiring.
- Attractions:
- Station to Totoro no Mori = 11km
- Totoro no Mori to London Bus Cafe = 6.4km
- London Bus Cafe to Sakurai Shrine = 4.4km
- Sakurai Shrine to Sakurai Futamigaura Torii = 2.7km
- Back to station = 11km
- Total = 35.5km
- I was so dead after but this was SO WORTH IT. The beach was so beautiful, I literally gasped when I first saw it. There's really nothing that beats the sight of the torii gates in the water.
Day 15: Kumamoto City
- Started using the Kyushu Rail Pass. Dropped off my luggage at the hotel before heading out
- Attractions:
- Kumamoto Castle
- Kato Shrine
- Sakura no baba Josaien
- Wakuwakuza Kumamoto Castle Museum
- Suizenji Jojuen Garden/Park – this was the highlight in my opinion; the garden was really pretty and the koi fish there are…very aggressive lol. They really want food.
- Kumamoto ramen! – I had dinner at Akagumi Ramen and really loved how garlicky Kumamoto-style ramen is.
- Hotel: Nest Hotel Kumamoto
- Included breakfast; paid for with Bilt Points; 15 minutes away from Kumamoto Station on the tram.
- Luggage Forwarding: I was going to Aso the next day and really didn't want to lug my stuff with me, so I forwarded my stuff to Kagoshima. Luggage forwarding was very simple: I just went to the front desk and they helped me fill out the form. Cost me about $17 USD.
Day 16: Mount Aso
- I took the Aso Boy Train (covered by Rail Pass) from Kumamoto Station to Aso Station. It was a good thing I forwarded my luggage because people were FIGHTING for seats on the train. There were no seat reservations and it was very crowded.
- Once at Aso Stn, everyone RAN to get on a bus to Asosanjo Terminal. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a seat and was panicking a bit since the next bus came 2 hours later. Luckily, I split a cab with a couple I met and the cab got us to the Terminal in half an hour (the bus took longer). Cost me 1500 yen after splitting with the couple.
- You can ask the staff at Aso Station to call a cab for you!
- Also pay attention to when the last bus is back to Aso Station.
- Attractions:
- Aso Sanjo Terminal Cafe – great ice cream and can also get souvenirs here
- Nakadake Crater
- there's a bus from Aso Sanjo to the crater but I recommend walking – the views are amazing and it's only around 30 minutes
- Kusasenri – I walked here as well; you go back the way you came from and past Aso Sanjo. Since this is going downhill, the trek was much easier
- Horse riding – very fun
- Walking around Kusasenri – the horse riding ended at around 4pm and the horses were set free to roam around the plains. It was great to walk around the fields and watch the horses drink, roll around, and just be free.
- Shops – some things that the tour guide (from Takachiho) said are must-dos in Aso:
- Drink Aso milk – I tried both the milk and the yoghurt drink and both are amazing
- Horse meat – there's a guy near the shops who has a small barbecue stand. He sells skewers that look like average ones you'd get at any barbecue but it's horse meat, which is the local specialty in Kumamoto. It was tasty but I definitely had weird feelings about it lol
- Buy horse oil – locals use it to scrub their feet; apparently you can't get this oil anywhere else in Japan (or if you get it, it's more cosmetic than medicinal)
- Eat Akaushi – the red cows are super expensive (I think it was 5 million yen each?) and you can get different dishes. I had dinner planned at the hotel so I had an akaushi burger from one of the stands. It was very good.
- Hotel: Hotel Aso no Tsukasa
- Breakfast and onsen were included; paid out of pocket for dinner
- Paid with Bilt Points
- The hotel also had a large gift shop and an outdoor footbath, which was really nice.
Day 17: Kagoshima/Sakurajima
- The Aso Boy train only runs twice a day in one direction, and there wasn't one going back to Kumamoto Station in the morning. Travel to Kagoshima took longer and I got in at around 2pm. My luggage got there before me.
- The original plan was to explore Kagoshima city this day, and then spend the next full day at Sakurajima. However, the forecast said it was going to rain and staff at the ferry port said that it was unlikely I'd be able to see much if I went on a rainy day. So I bit the bullet and went to Sakurajima in the afternoon despite the fact that everything (including transportation) closes at around 5pm. I ditched my plans to rent a bike since it didn't seem worth it for 2 hours.
- Attractions:
- Ferry to Sakurajima – comes every 15 minutes
- Yogan Nagisa Park Footbath – was amazing to watch the sunset while enjoying the footbath. Also met a clingy cat here.
- Yunohira Observatory – amazing view of Sakurajima volcano
- Takeaway: I got the day pass to get on and off the tour bus. The bus is really the only way to get to Yunohira observatory (it would be an EXTREMELY uphill bike) and it doesn't go to places like Kurokami Buried Torii.
- Magnum Onsen – near Yogan Nagisa Park and you can watch the sunset over the water while bathing
- Ate dinner at Yushokutonsai Ichiniisan Tenmonkanten
- Checked out Tenmonkan-dori and made a reservation at Kuroya (Kagoshima-style shabu-shabu) for the next day
- Hotel: Kagoshima Plaza Hotel Tenmonkan
- Paid with Bilt Points; no breakfast included
Day 18: Kagoshima City
- Very much a food day lol. It was very rainy and in retrospect, I would've done more indoor activities like going to the aquarium.
- Forwarded my luggage to Beppu hotel
- Attractions:
- Brunch at Tontoro Ramne
- Ate Shirokuma (Kagoshima shaved ice dessert) at Tanmonkan Mujaki
- Dolphins near aquarium (Kagoshima Dolphin Port?)
- not intentional, I was on my way to Sengan-en when I saw people standing around the bay. There's a dolphin show twice a day, which was very cool. The dolphins could swim in and out of the pool to the waterway. There were no trainers present
- Walked to Sengan-en – this was a mistake lol. First, I love walking and try to walk as much as possible. This was an hour's walk, which usually would be alright, but it was raining cats and dogs. Not my smartest moment
- Because of the rain, Sengan-en wasn't that enjoyable and I couldn't see much.
- Had dinner at Kuroya
- Chose this place since it had all the Kagoshima foods that are recommended: kurobuta shabu-shabu, Satsuma-imo, and Satsuma-shochu.
Day 19: Yufuin/Beppu
- Yufuin was a spontaneous decision: I realized that the train there was covered by the rail pass and through why not.
- It was still very rainy but Yufuin was quite pretty in the rain.
- Attractions in Yufuin:
- Walked down Yutsunobo Street
- Food highlights: Telato (matcha gelato), Milch (cheese cake)
- Went to Ghibli store & bought really nice souvenirs
- Looked at the cat and dog shop
- Yufuin Floral Village – it was pretty but a bit overrated in my opinion
- Walked down Yutsunobo Street
- I took a bus from Yufuin to Beppu (again, super thankful I forwarded my luggage!). The bus was super crowded since everyone was trying to fit themselves and their luggage on.
- Attractions in Beppu:
- Takegawara Onsen – I did the sand bath which was very fun! The staff will take a photo for you if you'd like. The regular onsen was also VERY hot which personally, I was a big fan of. The manager was a really friendly guy and really tried to get to know his foreign guests. I got to speak a lot of Japanese with him
- Hotel: Nishitetsu Resort Inn, Beppu
- Breakfast included, paid for with Bilt points
- I was choosing between this and Daiichi Hotel (both covered by Bilt) and went with this one since there were more reviews and the onsen looked great. However, it was a bit far from Beppu Station, much longer than the advertised 10 minute walk, in the rain and with luggage. Daiichi on the other hand was right next to the station.
- The onsen was super nice though! There was an indoor and outdoor pool.
Day 20: Beppu
- Attractions:
- Hells of Beppu Tour
- I got up early and did all the 7 hells. Highly recommend doing this tour, it was really fun, there are lots of footbaths, and each hell had fun attractions
- Did the Kannawa District Hells in the morning before lunch
- Lunch at Jigokumushikobo Kannawa
- I read online that there is a wait for this restaurant so I got there early, around 11:30 and only waited 5 minutes. As long as you avoid the lunch rush, it should be a short wait. I cooked my own food here, which was cool.
- After lunch, I took the bus to the Shibaseki District Hells
- Hells of Beppu Tour
- Had dinner at Toyotsune (toriiten)
- Relaxed at onsen at hotel
Day 21: Return to Tokyo
- Flew back to Tokyo from Oita Airport
- Hotel: Tokyo Business Hotel
- a 15 minute walk from Shinjuku Station, paid out of pocket, breakfast included
- Actually was very impressed by this hotel: the rooms were large and spacious and there was even an onsen!
- Did some shopping at Lumine Shinjuku
- Ate dinner at Ikkakuya (VERY good ramen)
Day 22: Asakusa – hang out with friends
Day 23: Shibuya & Harajuku
- This was a last-minute shopping/walk down memory lane day. I went directly from my hotel to Harajuku, then walked to Shibuya
- Harajuku Attractions:
- Breakfast at Island Vintage Coffee Omotesando – really yummy acai bowl
- Kiddland Harajuku – fun character goods store
- Tokyu Plaza Omotesando – I didn't buy anything, just wanted to ride the elevator lol
- Laforet Harajuku
- Shibuya Attractions:
- Shibuya 109 – fashion shopping, very girly stores
- Shibuya Hikarie – shopping
- Lunch at Maguro to Shari – real hole in the wall donburi place
- Shibuya Scramble Square – shopping
- Shibuya LOFT – souvenirs
- MEGA Donqujote – needed a new suitcase
- Ate dinner at Ikkakuya again (back in Shinjuku)
So yeah that was my trip! Absolutely loved my time in Japan and cannot wait to go back again. Please let me know if you have any questions and I hope this helps! 🙂
by persimmonsareawesome
