Like many here, I am desperately wishing I could be traveling to Japan this year. With the increasing likelihood that this will not be in the realm of possibility until at least late 2021, I wanted to take some time to share our experiences in Japan last year.
In early December of 2019 my girlfriend and I had booked a three week trip to Japan, with it being her first time there (myself returning). Our itinerary was as follows:
7 nights in Tokyo – Park Hotel
3 nights in Hakone – Kowakien Tenyu
4 nights in Kyoto – Cross Hotel
2 nights in Hiroshima – Sheraton Grand Hotel
3 more nights in Kyoto – Cross hotel
2 nights in Tokyo – The Gate hotel
Return home
We booked our trip in consultation with Inside Japan tours, a service I’ve used regularly due to the US office being located in my current home state of Colorado. Our trip spanned the 10th of March through the 30th, and by the time March rolled around things had gotten, shall I say, a little complicated. Japan’s virus cases were still at a minuscule number, with no public orders in effect except the temporary two week closures of mass-crowd areas like Disney and larger museums. The state department had only just raised its travel advisories to “reconsider travel”
If we were an at risk group, and with the advice of Inside Japan and our own personal discretion, we chose to press on with our trip.
On March 10th we boarded a direct flight from Denver (DIA) to Tokyo (NRT). Our flight was about half capacity, with an even mix of American tourists and returning Japanese citizens. Upon landing, we were greeted with a fairly quieter, but still lively, NRT. We were the only ones on our airport shuttle to the Park Hotel, and it made for an uncommonly serene and intimate drive from Narita into Tokyo.
Once settled into Tokyo proper, our next seven days pressed on relatively normally. The crowds were a bit thinner (but no less a crowd) nearly everywhere we went. Shibuya crossing was still packed, Harajuku still bustled with youth, Shinjuku still felt like a livewire at night, and business pressed on as usual in the shopping districts. Several days into our trip, it was announced that mass crowd facilities and events would be cancelled permanently for the next month. This removed Disney Sea, teamLab, the Ghibli Museum, and the Yayoi Kusama museum from our itinerary, but the rest was left intact.
We were left to experience Japan less as full fledged tourists and more as everyday comers and goers of city and country. We frequented my favorite fashion shops, parks, and neighborhoods in Tokyo, and had a quiet escape in Hakone as issues with the Virus continued to mount back home in the US. On our second day in Hakone the US state department raised its travel advisory to its maximum level, urging American citizens abroad to return home. Given the horror stories we were reading in real time about travelers getting stuck in airports around the world trying to get home (not to mention getting stuck with absurdly price-gouged airline tickets to fly back), we elected to press on with our trip. It would have cost us more to fly home than the value of the rest of our trip, and with cases worsening by the hour in the US we truly felt safer in Japan. We were even prepared to stay long term in an Air BnB we had researched as a contingency plan if things worsened and we were unable to fly home.
Over the course of the rest of our trip we savored every magical moment we could, even as worries about the virus and the uncertainty of our return home persisted. We ate Kobe beef in Kyoto, spent hours in Fushima Inari Taisha, and roamed the busy streets of Kyoto’s various districts. We searched for seashells on the shore of Miyajima on a day trip during our Hiroshima leg, and thoroughly explored Himeji castle on our return to our second leg in Kyoto. Around this time our direct flight back to Denver was canceled, and through enough telephone gymnastics over our final week in Japan, I was able to secure us a flight home at only $150 extra, stopping once in San Francisco (SFO). Our final day in Kyoto was spent walking around the Gion district and the old neighborhoods and temples above, taking in the history and just happy to be there with everything going on back home. Cases in the US had worsened severely by this point, with much of the country going into lockdown.
We returned to Tokyo on the 29th of March amidst the well-documented spring snow. As a result of this and the voluntary weekend shutdown for city business from the 27th through the 29th, the city had a rarely-seen serenity to it. We ended up staying an extra night at The Gate Hotel in Ginza due to our flight changes, and were able to see the city come to life again (though in slightly-muted fashion) that Monday and Tuesday. With the state of things in America and how safe and comfortable we felt in Japan, we truly did not want to return home.
However, on Wednesday April 1st we travelled by car back to Narita and boarded our flight home to the states. There were no issues flying home, no issues getting through customs in SFO like rumor had said there might be for returning citizens, and by early evening on the 1st we landed in Denver. We were completely amazed and whole-heartedly gracious that were able to still go through with 95% of our trip as planned right as things began to get complicated.
My experience in Japan over this trip left me with an even greater appreciation for the country’s care for public safety and personal hygiene. Masks were worn in great abundance for the entire duration of our trip (nothing new there) and sanitizing stations were ubiquitous in nearly every shopping area and public sphere. It took the states at least a month AFTER our return to consider implementing this. At no point did we feel worried for our own safety during our trip, nor those around us. It felt much more dangerous to be back home in America during March than be abroad in such a proactive Japan.
Overall, we felt like we were able to sneak in one last little beautiful escape before the world went topsy turvy, moments we will cherish for the rest of our lives. Even in returning to Japan I was able to experience many things for the first time as my girlfriend did too. I got my best picture of Fuji
yet atop the Hakone rope way, I explored Nara park in all its majesty for the very first time, and wound through the side streets and back alleys of Shibuya and Shinjuku in greater detail than ever before, discovering small shops and sights that all felt like an intimate treasure. As the future of travelling back to the greatest country in the world remains unclear, I look back on our decision to push forward with our trip with a full heart and fond memories.
Recommendations based on this trip:
Tokyo:
– PARCO Shibuya: an amazing, newly built shopping center centered around designer fashion and niche interests. Top levels include a Pokémon Center and Nintendo store, while the bottom levels include boutiques and shops from various fashion designers both local to Japan and from around the world.
– Sushiya Ichiyangi: the best sushi I have ever had, anywhere in the world. Located in Ginza. I try to hit this spot every time I am in Tokyo. The spot has only ten counter seats and provides an intimate experience where one is handed the most delectable pieces of sushi directly from the master chef himself. Price for a set meal ranges from $300-400 and is worth EVERY penny.
– Hama-Riku Gardens: a beautiful, expansive park in Ginza right near the hotel we stayed at (The Park). Couldn’t recommend a leisurely stroll through this park highly enough. You get a great view of surrounding buildings while being immersed in traditional Japanese foliage and park architecture.
– Shibuya Sky: the best skyline view you will have of Tokyo proper from the very top of the newer Shibuya Scramble building. The elevator up has its own immersive light show and the views are awe-inspiring. You can even go on the very top of the open air Sky deck!
– the Ghibli Clock near Shiodome station. A giant metal clock designed by Hayao Miyazaki himself. The clock goes off in an amazing spectacle several times a week and will leave you with warm feelings after experiencing it.
– Ginza Kagari Honten: truly the best Ramen I have ever had in my life. The chicken ramen especially is to die for. Chicken bone broth with moist pieces of meat and a surprising assortment of vegetables. This was recommended to me by a local friend in Tokyo, so it comes highly regarded by those who live in Tokyo permanently as well.
Hakone:
– Kowakien Tenyu hotel: A modern luxurious hotel in Hakone with rooms in the style of a traditional Ryokan. I could not get enough of this place and will 100% be returning. The rooms were comfortable with the perfect balcony hot springs bath, and the food provided for breakfast and dinner was some of the best I’ve had in the world. Nothing was skimped, and every little detail was paid the upmost attention. The hotel garden features multiple walkways and even its own shrine!
– Hakone ropeway: the first time I visited Hakone I skipped this pathway of cable cars, but this time we made sure to check it out. What a treat it was! The cars serenely wind up the mountainside in the valley around Lake Ashi, with several points to get out, explore, and take picture perfect photos of the shy boy Mt. Fuji.
– Narukawa Art Museum: a beautiful little art museum tucked up in a hill at the far end of lake
Ashi, behind the ferry stations. Beautiful pieces of Japanese art from throughout the country’s history are on display, and the museum’s gardens are a site unto themselves. There are large viewing areas of Lake Ashi and Mt Fuji from both inside and outside the museum, making for the perfect photo opportunities and a leisurely day spent admiring the setting.
Kyoto:
– Itoh Dining: the best Kobe Beef I’ve ever had in Japan and quite frankly the best cut of beef I’ve ever had in the world. It does not get better than this if you’re looking for a good steak and fine dining experience while in Kyoto. Prices for set courses range from 200-300 USD, and, once again, are worth every penny.
– Botanic Gardens at Nara Park: a little day trip away from Kyoto lies Nara, a must on any Japan travel lists. A main highlight of the park in my opinion are the botanic gardens, where Sakura, peach, and plum blossom trees are clustered throughout on display in spectacular fashion, depending when you visit. One of the most gorgeous and serene botanic gardens I’ve yet to visit.
– exploring Kyoto station top to bottom: yes, this might seem obvious, but the station has a BOUNTY of rewards for those who explore its every corner. From the gardens at the top, to the light-up tiered stairs, to the various top-tier restaurants inside, the station is worth taking several hours to explore. The shabu-shabu restaurant inside the station in particular was phenomenal.
– Craft Dining Upit: one of the BEST burgers you will have anywhere in the world. I know, seeking out a burger in Japan might seem cheap, but if you’re looking for a little taste of the west, or even an eastern spin on a traditional burger, then Upit is the place for you. Juicy burgers with loads of toppings are the name of the game at this local Kyoto restaurant. The beef bulgogi burger in particular was a sight to behold, with overflowing shreds of beef sitting atop a perfectly cooked burger.
– Kyomizu Temple: quite possibly the most breathtaking temple experience I’ve had while in Kyoto. The main tower is iconic, and exploring the rest of the temple grounds makes for a jaw-dropping experience.
25 comments
I feel the same nostalgia. I actually went at the start of March in 2020 for three weeks, because the gravity and the severity of COVID was much different at that time and I couldn’t cancel. While many cultural things were closed (my most regretful being the World Sumo Championship), I still had a wonderful time meeting the people. Just sitting at a small sushi bar in Tokyo’s jewelry district talking to a family made the trip worthwhile.
One thing about the pandemic: it amplified a lot of appreciation of things. I also had a trip to Japan in 2020–Jan 1 thru 11, iirc. I felt like it was amazing at the time, amazing after i got back home, but 3 months later I felt I was the beneficiary of ultra-amazing luck and fortune, to have been able to do it at all.
I soon felt the same way about work and the Internet, grocery stores.. a lot of things, many of which are often taken for granted.
Your trip sounds amazing. Was your girlfriend spellbound by the experience? Questions:
– park hotel — is this synonymous with the Park Hyatt in Shinjuku?
– any spring foliage during your dates?
My husband & I were scheduled to leave April 3rd. Unfortunately, we cancelled and now have just kept moving it back 6 months at a time. Some day we will get to go. Trip reports like yours keep me hopeful and looking forward to going soon.
Personally I have some questions about the Hakone part.
With 3 nights, depending on when you got in and out, you had between 2 to 4 days to visit Hakone. Do you feel that there is enough things to do and see in Hakone to fill that much ? I personally spent about one day and a half but I think I could have filled more time if I had gone to some museum or decided to go for a hike somewhere.
And 3 nights in a ryokan, did you had the meals include, and if yes, was it for all meal ? If you did, can you share a bit about the experience, was the menu different for each day ? It seems to be quite a big place with many dining options, so I assume it was easier to eat something different. I personally only went to ryokan for a single day and in much smaller place, so I feel I would have needed to advise to get a menu a bit different if I was to stay two days.
If you like it so much, and it’s so crappy in the US, why don’t you just move there?
How did you like the Park Hotel? Did you stay in one of the artist rooms?
Do you know what the phrase ‘less than ordinary’ actually means?
Not related to Japan at all but I was in New Zealand from the beginning of March (like, 2nd or 3rd), into like, the 20th or so. So roughly the same time, kind of.
My experience being abroad during the ramp up of the pandemic was surreal. Like, I was watching Jacinda Ardern respond to it promptly and hard, meanwhile America’s was…..crickets. But I was on a farm north of Auckland more or less away from civilization lol.
Getting back was a whole thing. My trip didn’t have to get altered, but damn near everyone else’s were. And they closed down all but a single line in the airport for every foreigner to check in to return. I’d never seen so many people in one part of an airport before.
I stayed in a hotel really close to Hama-Rikyu Gardens and I am really regretting not going when I could have!!! Glad you had a great time and you’ll always be able to cherish the memory of a great trip before the world went bonkers!
I really loved The Gate, and the Cross in Sapporo.
I went two months before during the rugby world cup and things were merry. Crazy how fast things change…
I love Ginza Kagari too! It’s polarizing as some people thin it tastes like Campbell’s Cream of Chicken soup LOL!
I liked it so much that I went twice in one day.
They have the yellow, fatty, “cheesy” broth as well as a dark brown, super flavorful, clear soup.
I’m going to look into Ichiyangi.
I was hoping to go to Arai for lunch and Kyubey for dinner on my next trip.
Thank you for your trip report. I’m sure your trip was surreal.
I feel like I probably shared a street with you at some point. lots of similar locations at similar time of 2019 to my trip with my partner 😀
It’s funny how the virus seemed like it was so out of control in the US at the beginning, but really very few people were infected. The worst of the first wave was ~35,000 infections a day, compared to 300,000+ infections a day now.
Thank you for sharing this. It’s lovely to be able to travel through others’ stories and be reminded of things you’ve seen or done yourself.
I returned home from my last Japan trip just over a year ago now. It’s mind blowing to me that I haven’t touched my passport in a year!
Anyway I wanted to share with you the memories you triggered for me:
• My poor husband waiting patiently leaning on a wall while the rest of the family ran like crazy people through the Parco Pokémon centre.
• Hamarikyu garden: we’ve stayed literally next to it probably five or six times and this was the first time we ever went! It is so lovely even during early Jan when everything was dormant. We saw gardeners trimming this massive pine tree that has some branches supported by giant wood rests. They were going so slow and consulting each other so carefully to ensure the shape and health of the tree.
•The Ghibli clock: everyone we know who goes to Japan gets sent to the clock so it has become tradition to take a picture there. I have quite the collection
•Hakone ropeway: we went many years ago on our honeymoon. The pirate ship across the lake was the pinnacle of bizarre Japan for my husband. It was his first trip and he couldn’t fathom why there was essentially a Disney-production level ride as transportation. This last trip we saw the One Piece ship (it was very similar to the Hakone one in build) in Huis Ten Bosch (Kyushu) and my husband was not even fazed!
• meeting my Grandma at Kyoto Station. We would always meet her there and she would take us for expensive and fancy tea and cake. You are certainly right…there is a whole world of food to explore there. (Did you happen to see the Australian hand-pie restaurant Pie Face that opened there next to Mister Donut? I was shocked and then instantly hungry)
•I’m curious to know how busy Kiyomizu was when you were there. My dad is from
Kyoto and our last two trips just seemed insane with tourists. I’m so jealous of anyone there now getting the benefit of seeing thing the way it was when I was a kid!
Well thank you for bringing these happy memories to the front of my mind again. Makes me feel less sad about my dusty passport! And I’m sorry some people are giving you a hard time. Stay safe and good luck with your plans!
So beautiful! Thank you for such vivid inspiration.
It’s good hearing that you were able to push through and finish your trip and go back despite of the covid situation without having any major issues. 🙂
Same here. I was lucky enough to be able to travel to Japan before the covid situation became worse. Our home city implemented a lockdown just a week after we got back. Some of my colleagues have even discouraged me on continuing the trip, but I didn’t really care and went anyway. I’m glad I made the trip because it would be my biggest regret if I haven’t.
We came to Japan on the last week of February. It was only a 7 night Osaka-Tokyo trip but I’ve really enjoyed it. We went to USJ, Kyoto, Nara, Kawaguchiko, and Yuzawa. Too bad that we weren’t able to see Mt. Fuji because it was rainy on the day we went. The Ghibli Museum has been canceled due to covid. They also closed Osaka castle 2 days before our planned visit. I think USJ has been closed just 2 days after we went there. But overall, it was great and it felt lucky we were able to do most of the activities in our itinerary.
I usually travel with friends or family, but now I am planning to travel solo or find travel buddies, or just meet new people along the way. I intend to travel next year and hopeful that travel restrictions will be lighter by that time.
Thanks for this great post! I’ve put Japan on the top of my list for next year and have saved your itinerary. Regarding your dinner at Sushiya Ichiyang- I’d love to splash out for this kind of meal, but I have to admit, I think I’d feel a bit intimidated. What I should know about Japanese customs for dining in a place like this. Is the menu in English? Is there even a menu?
Saving your post for ideas when we finally get to visit Japan!
I’m glad that you got to enjoy your trip even though the obvious circumstances. I’m going to use some of your suggestions for Tokyo and Kyoto.
We were meant to be going in November for 2 weeks but obviously that didn’t go ahead. It’s been moved to May but that is also looking less and less likely unfortunately
I am Japanese. I am very sorry to hear that your trip was interrupted by the Corona problem. Please come back when this problem is resolved. If I can be of any help to you, I will do my best to help you. First of all, I would like to wish you all good health.
I am planning a trip to Japan for my 50th birthday in September 2022. It will be my son, who will be turning 16, and I only (my wife doesn’t do airplanes, and certainly not 14 hour flights) I have always been fascinated with Japanese culture from when I was young and from studying martial arts. This trip will be a dream come true for me and an incredible experience for my son. I feel like I need to start planning now. I am setting aside 2 weeks and I would love some advice on what are the must sees and must do’s for a first timer. Should I utilize a tour company or should we freestyle it? I don’t have any idea where to even start.
We may be going for the Kowakien Tenyu hotel later this year. Anything you would have changed about your stay? Any general recommendations to get the most out of it?
I want to go so bad. I’m terrified I won’t understand anything though ans I’ve never traveled outside the US. I’m learning Japanese but AM VERY beginner level lol.
Itoh dining.. love that place. Went there in 2014 and it really impressed me. I think it has a michelin star.
Did you check out Hiro in Kyoto?