Hi Everyone! I’m quite torn between these two destinations. I’m asking early because I want to book a good onsen as early as possible.
To give context, It will be my first time to visit Japan in November. I will also be going alone. I will be staying in Fukuoka.
I only heard good things regarding onsens so I want to spend a day or two trying out onsens. Staying one night at a good onsen that has a beautiful public and private baths. Preferably, a solo traveler friendly place. (Some places doesn’t accept solo traveler for staying the night)
First, I was thinking of Yufuin because I want to try the limited express train from Hakata, the various food, Kirin lake, scenic views there during autumn and onsens.
But I got interested in Kurokawa onsen. I find it pretty unique and it seems like it would be good during Autumn. I also heard great things about the onsens there. The food around the area is pretty limited so it won’t be hard to decide where to eat.
Here’s a thought, can I visit Kurokawa onsen and stay the night then go to Yufuin the next day? Or just do Yufuin in another day?
Another thing to know is that I’m planning to purchase the JR pass and I’m not sure whether kurokawa onsen is covered by that.
For those who have been to both, what do you prefer and why?
Thank you!
6 comments
Do you have tattoos?
I haven’t been before, but I’m actually planning on going solo to both in mid September and was able to book a spot at a ryokan at both onsen towns! I’m starting in Kumamoto and will be taking the Kyushu Odan Bus line to Kurokawa onsen ([https://kyushubusbooking.com/highway-bus/kyushu-odan-bus/](https://kyushubusbooking.com/highway-bus/kyushu-odan-bus/)).
I think there it may be possible to take from a bus from Fukuoka as well([https://kyushubusbooking.com/highway-bus/fukuoka-kurokawa/](https://kyushubusbooking.com/highway-bus/fukuoka-kurokawa/)).
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The same line also goes to the Yufuin bus station which is what I will be using the next day. I then plan to take the limited express train from Yufuin to Fukuoka ([https://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/train/yufuin_no_mori.html](https://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/train/yufuin_no_mori.html)). My understanding is that the JR rail pass/Kyushu regional pass covers the limited trains, but not the Kyushu Odan Bus Line.
Both are great in their own (very different) ways.
However Kurokawa is not reachable by train, only a few buses per day. It might be better for a first time visitor to go to Yufuin or Beppu.
Kurokawa is usually more expensive and viewed as higher-end / exclusive, so I’d check prices if you were considering staying at an onsen ryokan. Yufuin is easier to get to and slightly cheaper, but still great quality.
I was not impressed with Yufuin, too touristy and geared toward tourists. Kurukawa has tourists but since it’s smaller and more high end I thought it was a better vibe-most people are staying at a ryokan and you can buy a pass to visit 3 other ryokan onsens and everyone walks around in the ryokan yukatas (if they are still doing that). Lunch options are more limited but there’s still places to eat and make sure your ryokan stay comes with breakfast and dinner!
Kurokawa also has a lot of outdoor (rotenboro) onsens that were so relaxing. Looking out on a stream or sitting in a cave. I would make the effort to go more off the tourist path!
If you have to only visit one, I would strongly recommend Kurokawa. It’s smaller, much more scenic, has some truly amazing onsen/rotenburo, and is one of the nicest onsen towns in the whole country. It could be more expensive than Yufuin depending on where you stay, and I would try to stay in the center of town so you can just walk everywhere. Fuji-ya was a fine place and not too expensive, and Oyado Noshiyu is stunning but pricey).
You can catch a bus from Hakata JR station in Fukuoka which is an easy ride, but not covered by the JR pass. The bus only runs a few times a day, so I would spend a night in Fukuoka, then catch the morning bus to Kurokawa so you have time to spend the day there and onsen hop a bit. When in Kurokawa, you have to go to Yamamizuki (its a ~5m bus ride from central kurokawa), and then I really like Ikoi, Yamabiko, and Sanga (also you could stay at any of these three).
You could also go to Yufuin by train, stay the night, then do another night in Kurokawa which would be cool too.