Itinerary review: two weeks in Kyushu


Hi all, my SO and I are planning our second trip to Japan. A little over a year ago we spent three incredible weeks exploring Honshu. This time, we want to road trip across Kyushu over two weeks. Assuming travel restrictions are lifted, we will be flying into Fukuoka the evening of 5/10/2021, and departing on the 23rd. We will be renting a car for the entirety of our trip. [Here](https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1uHnsRCcefybfiJa6AJwUGpR40rsZO70j&usp=sharing) is a map of our tentative route.

I understand this itinerary is fast paced. There were several legs of our trip last year where we were traveling to a different location each day. Given that experience, I feel comfortable with this pace, but please let me know if any part of this seems outright infeasible to you. Specific questions are listed below the itinerary.

​

|*Day*|*Location*|*Notes*|
|:-|:-|:-|
|5/10|Fukuoka|Evening arrival|
|5/11|Fukuoka||
|5/12|Saga Prefecture|Visit Hirado, and possibly Arita and Imari. Ryokan in Karatsu|
|5/13|Nagasaki||
|5/14|Kumamoto||
|5/15|Kagoshima||
|5/16|Ibusuki|Sand baths, then ferry to Yakushima|
|5/17|Yakushima|First day of a two-day hike across Yakushima (cutting out first leg of traditional three day traverse by taxi)|
|5/18|Yakushima|Hike out and ferry back to Ibusuki|
|5/19|Kirishima|Long day hike in Kirishima National Park|
|5/20|Takachiho|Drive up via Nichinan Coast, visit the gorge, shrine, etc.|
|5/21|Kurokawa|Check out Aso-san on the way, stay in Ryokan|
|5/22|Yufuin|Head back to Fukuoka for lodging|
|5/23|Fukuoka|Noon departure|

Questions:

1. **How much time should I dedicate to Hirado, Imari and Arita?** This is potentially our most packed day in the whole trip, with three and a half hours of driving total and three possible locations. We may find lodging nearby the night before to shorten driving time, but currently the plan is to leave from Fukuoka at 6AM and arrive in Hirado by 8AM. Grab breakfast and spend an hour or two biking around there. Then if time permits head to Arita and/or Imari, with a couple hours at each. We will retire to our ryokan in Karatsu around 6pm. If I have to cut a location out, which would you say is the least interesting? I’m definitely interested in ceramics/textiles but I’m more excited to bike around Hirado and take in the coastline. I’m hoping it’s possible to hit all three.
2. **How much time would you recommend between Kurokawa and Yafuin? Which do you prefer?** Edit: Someone mentioned below that Yufuin is a tourist trap. Beppu seems to be for sure; do people think this is true of Yafuin as well?
3. **Are there any hidden gems along the route you would recommend over our chosen locations?** We loved exploring more rural and residential areas on Honshu, and enjoy getting to the less touristy corners of the country. Walking the streets of Japan is one of the great joys of traveling there, even if there aren’t many “things to do.”
4. **Are there any great scenic drives we should include in our route?** The ones we made sure to include so far were the Kusasenrigahama/Yamanami Highway drive near Aso, Kurokawa and Yafuin, the Nichinan Coast drive, and then the drive along the coast in Saga prefecture.
5. **Can anyone recommend specific ryokans in Kyushu?** Based on our research we were thinking of going with [Ryokan Sanga](https://www.sanga-ryokan.com/en/) in Kurokawa and [Yoyokaku](http://www.yoyokaku.com/sub5e.htm) in Karatsu. Yoyokaku is appealing due to it’s traditional style, history and pottery. We’re interested in Sanga because it seems like the kaiseki there is pretty adventurous. These are both upper-mid-range ryokans, probably around ¥50,000 each. Another option we’re considering is foregoing two mid-range ones in favor of one luxury ryokan. [Takefue](https://www.takefue.com/) definitely piqued our interest. We are mostly looking for excellent regional cuisine, omotenashi (Japanese hospitality), and atmosphere.

**EDIT:** After reading some of the feedback here we’re considering cutting out sightseeing in Saga prefecture to give us more time in Fukuoka. We may also pass on Kirishima since we’ll have just finished a big hike in Yakushima. Also, we may cut out either Kagoshima or Kumamoto to give us more time in Nagasaki. So a couple more questions:

6. **If I have to cut one location out, should it be Kagoshima or Kumamoto?**

7. **Is Kirishima worth cutting out?** I have mixed feelings about this. I do want more breathing room in the itinerary and we are going to be hiking in Yakushima, but I’ve heard Kirishima is some of the best hiking in Kyushu.

13 comments
  1. re: #6 there’s an incredible onsen/ryokan that’s hike-in only in Kuju natl park

  2. Not sure what you mean by cutting out the three day hike by using a taxi in Yakushima. Which hike are you hoping to do? I was there for about 5 days last year and don’t think I saw a single cab on the road the entire time.

  3. 2 small diversions if they aren’t already planned:
    1) when heading south to Kagoshima, go via the ebino plateau, best to take the road from yatsushiro via hitoyoshi, very scenic and comes out in kirishima.

    2) aso, if it’s a clear day drive up the mountain to where the old cable car used to be, go for a 20 min walk around there, it’s well worth it and the views are spectacular. Also kuju and the flower gardens, very nice.

  4. Have fun with your trip. Japan is my favorite country. Lived there for 6 years and will definitely retire there in the future.

    But your trip is too specific. I can never travel like that. I’m the opposite. Pick several places that I want to go and do everything on a whim.

  5. Kirishima’s ryokans has nice onsens. And Kagoshima has the fun Sakurajima puffing ashes almost every day.

    Not sure why Hirado but then again I am biased towards Iki island (near Hakata but under Nagasaki administration) in terms of ancient history (Yayoi period/3rd century compared to Hirado’s Song Dynasty period) and Shinto shrines (Iki island is loaded with them). Iki island has an even older settlement called Harunotsuji.

    Arita and Imari are known for ceramics/pottery. Imari for its porcelain. Good if you are into these.

  6. In Yakushima, we did a shortish hike and took some side trails on the way back to climb up to Taiko Rock (I think that was the name), it had some marvelous views and I’ve never seen such green moss in the forests before. Also for Yakushima, go to the ocean onsen on the south side that are only visible during low tide (Hirauchi Kaichu Natural Onsen) and the nearby waterfalls; and the multi-course lunch we had at Hirono was one of my most memorable in Japan, beautiful presentation and fantastic food with a focus on hyper-local meat, fish, and produce ([https://goo.gl/maps/vpiDEkj1H156d3in6](https://goo.gl/maps/vpiDEkj1H156d3in6)).

    In Kagoshima, when not searching out for the wonderful, tiny shochu bars, Yatai Village with a bunch of food stalls near the main train station was way more fun than I would have expected.

    For Kurokawa, I’d only gone for a day and loved Hozantei as it’s right on the river and serene, I had some friends who stayed there several nights and said great things. That being said, I understand much of the appeal of Kurokawa is being more in the village center so you can walk around from onsen to onsen in a yukata. On a side note, and I might be mistaken, but I think Warokuya is a quick restaurant where you can get good horse curry rice and play Super Famicom with a great game selection while waiting to be served.

    Are you not spending any time in Fukuoka aside from getting to and from the airport? Mind-blowing food and drink scene there and in nearby Kitakyushu, it’s not to be missed! I lived around there for a few years and would be more than happy to share some recommendations.

  7. I am also looking at going to Kyushu for two weeks.

    I am not as much into hiking, more into history and culture, so of course what I would do is probably a bit different. Also, I would do it by train as it’s a bit expensive to go by car for one person.

    Places that I spotted include Yoshinogari historic park in Saga, then on the way to Nagasaki, I would check if team lab have have an exhibit at Mifuneyama Rakuen. I’ve been to Nagasaki, but fell that the one day I spent there was not enough. This time I think I would spend a bit more time exploring the location related to hidden Christians. It might be overrated, but I’m also curious about the cruise to visit Gunganjima. Unzen and the ferry to Kumamoto seems to be a great idea, would totally do that. Going to Kagoshima, I would like to stop at a place that grow tea, either as a farm stay experience or just daytime visit and around May, just like you planned, so I would be in time for first harvest.

    I’ve heard a lot of wonderful things about Yakushima, but somehow it seems to me it would take at least 2-3 days to manage the transportation around it and fell it’s a lot when you only have 13 days to travel. Still would absolutely love to go.

    After I would probably go toward Miyazaki, like Nichinan coast. The Takachiho gorge look stunning, so I really like that part of your itinerary. Just wondering how easy it is to do by train and bus, but that would probably make Oita a good exit point.

    I’m interesting in stopping at a place that make pottery, but I’m not a fan or Arita style and Imari seems similar. I’ve been to Tamba and really liked the style and would like to visit Bizen. Both have much more earth color, that really contrast with the painting of the Northern Kyushu style.

    Sorry if this is not really a constructive comment, but your itinerary seems pretty interesting.

    ​

    Edit : I said I’m not that much into hiking, but I would like to do it more, I really like the itinerary the propose here [https://www.welcomekyushu.com/kyushuolle/](https://www.welcomekyushu.com/kyushuolle/)

  8. As you know, it’s a very tight schedule. There are some points to worry about.

    Car navigation:

    Have you investigated the rental car whose car navigation system supports English? I think you have been considered, but I confirmed it just in case.

    Travel time:

    I think it’s underestimated. When I checked the movement from Hakata Station to Hirado City Tourist Information Center with google map, it was 123 minutes. In my experience, the actual travel time needs to be about 30% longer than the time taught by google map, so I think it is better to actually evaluate for about 160 minutes. In addition, considering the parking time, the time to walk from the parking lot to the facility, and the time required for procedures at the facility, isn’t it necessary to have about 30-40 minutes? Then, even if you left Fukuoka at 6:00, I feel like you could start cycling in Hirado near 9:30. I believe this discussion can be applied to other schedules.

    Imari/Arita

    I think it would be better to have a simple pottery experience if possible, but it would be impossible due to time constraints. Probably you will be about going around the store lightly and buying something.

    Karatsu:

    I don’t know the purpose of staying in Karatsu. Do you plan to go sightseeing in Karatsu? If not, it seems like you would be better to move to Nagasaki on the same day and stay at Nagasaki…

    Nagasaki:

    The last ferry from Shimabara to Kumamoto seems to be at 17:50. Please note that it will take nearly 2 hours to move from Nagasaki to Shimabara. It is necessary to arrive at Shimabara Port one hour before the ferry time, so it is better to leave Nagasaki City after 14:00. It’s really tight (><)

    Kumamoto:

    In the city of Kumamoto, when you come across a rush hour, the car hardly moves due to traffic. When you choosing a hotel to stay in, and be careful and avoid the city.I am from Kumamoto Prefecture, so I would like you to see Kumamoto Castle, but it might be difficult to see Kumamoto Castle for 3 to 4 hours during traffic jams and walks. I also want you to try Kumamoto ramen. It’s thick and delicious. If you are planning a sightseeing outside of Kumamoto City, you have to evaluate at the move time, and if you can go around, there is only one more place. Amakusa will be a good candidate if you are heading from Kumamoto to Kagoshima. The scenery of 天草五橋 is also wonderful.

    I haven’t been to the further scheduled places, so I can tell you nothing more. Excuse me…

  9. In the Kumamoto area, check out Reigando Cave for sure: https://www.explore-kumamoto.com/reigando-cave-and-unganzenji-temple/

    The statues representing 500 disciples of Buddha are pretty surreal, as well as the cave / temple itself. It’s where Musashi Miyamoto spent his last few years meditating and writing The Book of Five Rings.

    If you want a solid hike with a marvelous bird’s-eye view of Fukuoka, go up to Mt. Tachibana.

    Also kind of unusual for most travelers I’m guessing, but In case you haven’t been to a Costco in Japan before and you’re curious, there’s one near Tachibana in Hisayama. Fantastic sushi trays at great prices, amongst other variety of Asian goods you won’t find in other countries’ Costco locations. You’d have to be a member of course, or if you’re looking to spend decent money (couple of bottles of high end alcohol etc), then the membership would probably pay for itself.

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