Trip Report: May 9-30, Tokyo – Osaka – Kyoto – Tokyo – FOOD & BOOZE Focus

Returned last week from a 3 week trip in Japan, my first!

Did the very typical route of Tokyo-Osaka-Kyoto-Tokyo but did things a little different stayed in 7 hotels throughout my stay.
Why? My wife and I are very much food and nightlife focus and love to get a feel of neighborhoods, this enabled us to do one inconvenient journey to then set up base for the next few nights, get a feel of neighborhoods and avoided expensive Taxi fares at night.

This trip report will focus mostly on the wanky food, coffee and drinking spots that I enjoyed – as well as some tourist highlights

 

##**Tokyo** ^May ^10-18

#**Shibuya**

First couple of nights was a treat hotel stay as this was a delayed Honeymoon. We stayed in the Cerulean Tower in Shibuya on an executive floor and it was worth every cent. Mostly just chilled around the hotel adjusting with the jet lag and using the executive perks.
Whilst we stayed here we drank at [R261 CIGAR & ROCK](https://goo.gl/maps/UJX7deeSFrwHMDgbA) and mostly the Executive lounge “free” cocktail hour.

 

***Notable spots:***

[SG Low](https://goo.gl/maps/Gy6ofTUG35dP6tEK8) – great foreign friendly introduction to Izakaya culture.

[L’Intemporel](https://goo.gl/maps/MbhqooaGrefCpoYw5) – Amazing French fusion tasting course with wine pairing, not cheap (honeymoon remember) but we wanted to try Japanese influenced French and it did not disappoint!

 

#**Shinjuku**

Stayed at the Tokyu Stay East Side, spacious but basic and a little bit away from the madness but close enough to explore the nightlife in the area, also close to Shinokubo.

I know Golden Gai can be a questionable visit but my wife and I loved it, found some real niche bars that we enjoyed, hotel was in close proximity, loved Piss Alley too

Experienced my first basement of a shopping center and was blown away. I know that everyone recommends it but holy shit, the food options are endless. Great if you want to take some treats back to the hotel.

 

***Notable spots:***

[Kodoji](https://goo.gl/maps/JqWKsjcVqxzb9Vgd8) Small bar in Golden Gai that is also a photography gallery. Very much a locals only joint, owner eyes you up before you allowed to drink. The regulars were lovely.

[Bay Window](https://goo.gl/maps/VW2XMjgKkz7TDJDi8) More laid back and spacious, the owner had extensive knowledge of Japanese whiskey, very much enjoyed!

[All Seasons Coffee](https://goo.gl/maps/9xe6X34Ly1yUuuTt5) Fantastic Coffee in an independent shop

[養老乃瀧 新宿西口店](https://goo.gl/maps/v49YeTxZrdP2tRPs8) Good Izakaya in Piss Alley. Not the typical small and crowded joint, eating upstairs near the window you can see the trains go by.

[Uobei Shin-Okubo](https://goo.gl/maps/kRVepsAfVjtoY1Gx9) I know its Kaiten sushi but my wife and I were blown away with the quality. We are Sushi novices so we are likely rating this with inexperienced palates. If you want to dip your toe into Sushi/Sashimi I couldnt recommend it enough!

[Hanbey’s Izakaya](https://goo.gl/maps/XnHMmAEgeEHKVgW77) Yes its a chain and the food is average at best but if you book in advance you might be lucky to get a private room. Cheap and cheerful with a great vintage decor

 

#**Azabu-Juban**

Random one to move here but we found a great deal at the Oakwood Hotel & Apartments. Has an amazing view of Tokyo Tower! We also had a steak restuarnt booked, see below, and knew we were going to the Tsukiji Outer Market and Sumo tournament so it seemed like a good base of travel.

Lined up big day of Tsukiji Outer Market – Sumo Grand Tournamet – Asakusa.

Quick take, Tsukiji Outer Market can be missed if traveling to Kyoto or Osaka. I found the markets in Kyoto and Osaka to be less hectic and a little cheaper and just as enjoyable. Tsukiji is a massive magnet to all tourists across the city, I sure enjoyed it at the time but then when I went to Nishiki Market and Kuromon Ichiba Market I found them to be just as enjoyable but with less of a crowd.

Sumo Grand Tournament – If you ever have the opportunity I would 100% recommend to go. We go the nose bleeds and got in a little early to look around. If you want to see the more high profile fights go in a little later, around 2pm. Was pretty cool to see the Sumo walking from the station to the stadium.

Sensō-ji Temple in the evening was great, noone about and you get to take on the temple as the sun sets. Couldn’t recommend going later enough, felt like we had it to ourselves and you have a lot of decent food options around Hoppy street.

Made a trip out to Nakameguro on a nice day and it was a lovely chilled vibe. Checked out the vintage shops there and then had a drink chilling by the river. A nice escape from the madness of Shibuya and Shinjuku, some really lovely independent shops, cafe and restaurants

 

***Notable spots:***

[Juban Ukyo Stand Bar](https://goo.gl/maps/a2SUaHVJyGtVWy369) Stumbled across this and loved it. If you like your natural wines and are in the area this is a go to, even have orange wine which was hard to come by elsewhere.

[Northcote Coffee Shop](https://goo.gl/maps/1jqUvsk9BqjPvbQ78) Small independant coffee shop that makes a decent cup, owner is very lovely and happy to have a chat – she lived in Melbourne previously.

[Komiyama-nishiazabu](https://goo.gl/maps/xUEHrMReAeCB7j5q7) Another splash out dinner, holy shit this was amazing. The Chef used to be a butcher so he buys by the cow and takes you on a tasting course of all the different cuts. One of the best meals I’ve had

[Turret Coffee Tsukiji](https://goo.gl/maps/TDVAzheWt6iCx1WKA) If you like your coffee strong, this is the one. Like an uppercut of caffeine. Loved it!

[Popeye](https://goo.gl/maps/4hEgzjniMxGUrbmP9) Conveniently located next to Ryogoku Kokugikan National Sumo Arena, if you are a craft beer drinker this is the OG spot in Tokyo. As with all craft beer its more on the expensive side, however, they offer a free place of food from selected drinks during their happy hour, helps soften the blow.

[Akagaki](https://goo.gl/maps/BHXTw8Qah1W33Pto9) Hoppy street wasn’t doing it for us and my wife was curious of this place, we stuck our heads in and had a night we will never forget. Very much a local spot but welcoming to foreigners – if there is space. Once we mentioned were on honeymoon the Shochu didnt stop, also made a friend who booked us in at Imahan Honten, more on that later.

 

**Quick take** – Though its fun getting Ekiben from Tokyo station, in comparison to Konbini or bakery food its pretty poor. Opted for one to share and then grab something quality from a Konbini

**Quick take** ^again – if you are doing my same overall route there is no need for the JR pass.
If you book ahead, a month in advance and the max, on the SmartEX site you can get discount tickets for standard and green cart. Also book an oversized baggage seat if possible, yes your suitcase might fit above or in front of you but if you book the Nozomi train – a non JR pass Shinkansen, you are likely to be one of the few foreigners in your carriage that are hauling baggage so likely no competition. These seats cost no more than the standard, they are just limited, also book the D and E seat for Mt Fuji views, were were lucky and saw it twice! Our tickets to Osaka were ¥12,370 each, little more on return as we only booked them a week in advance. In total it was ¥26,340 return each, cheaper than a 7 day pass and on faster trains.
 

##**Osaka** ^May ^18-23

#**Namba**

First stayed in an interesting container hotel called Distortion 9. Was really in the thick of it, just a short walk from the station.

Dotonbori is hectic, too hectic. I did enjoy the lights and restaurant displays but the sheer amount of people was overwhelming. Very much enjoyed the vibe of America-mura and Yotsubashi, lots of vintage shops and boutiques.

Shinsekai was great, highly recommend going a little later in the day to see at night. Come hungry as there are a lot of great Kushikatsu and Okonomiyaki spots about.

 

***Notable spots:***

[SAKImoto COFFEE](https://goo.gl/maps/RXdiuwHyXwWuncA88) A great cup, can also buy and bring over baked goods from across the road.

[Gokai Tachizushi Nambanankaidori](https://goo.gl/maps/aShHYETNoLHzgzTR6) Great quality Sushi/Sashimi for the price. Very much an Izakaya feel.

[Umineko](https://goo.gl/maps/dSoAUxbKuj4SrQVM7) Great craft standing bar.

[LiLo Coffee Roasters](https://goo.gl/maps/iPXXBGXFULqLLPj39) Really great cup of coffee

[Luv Wine Namba ](https://goo.gl/maps/ov8KJ1CM7mnHDBpr5) A really lovely standing wine bar. The owners where very warm and welcoming. Great selection of wines and quality food.

[EDENICO](https://goo.gl/maps/jMJeStJHB7s5Umab6) Coffee shop by day, bar by night. Enjoyed having a chilled afternoon here with a local we made friends with at the standing bar.

 

#**Kita**

Moved to her to stay in a cheaper hotel as we were doing day trips for a couple of days.
Osaka underground city is mental, when we first got out the station we thought we moved to a ghost town, little did I know there was an entire underground city below stretching for city blocks, makes for some confusing google map directions

[Nakazakichō](https://goo.gl/maps/Jj8WqMr7P5ffQNVB9) was a sleeper hit of Osaka, great to explore the vintage and art shops of the area and an exceptionally good coffee/cafe scene here. Wish I could have come back later to see what the buzz was like at night.

Nara Park was worth the visit but is overwhelming with crowds initially. Once you hike a little more into the hills it really opens up and you can appreciate the beauty of it more. Would have like to explore the city more but a hot day in the park really takes it out of you.

 

***Notable spots:***

[お初天神 大衆レトロ酒場 オハツ商店 個室居酒屋](https://goo.gl/maps/keuQjvQyMnUcUkSe6) Great standard Izakaya we ate at. More flagging this for the area itself.

Not really known by tourists- I think we were the only white folk about. A gem of a spot home to a number of bars, restaurants and Izakaya

[Monaca Coffee](https://goo.gl/maps/HDNiSdRT84m61Npf7) incredibly well curated coffee spot, surprised we got a seat as it seemed very popular once we got in. One of the best pour over coffees I’ve had.

 

**Quick take** If you are traveling from Osaka to Kyoto and are staying in the Gion area opt for the Keihan Main Line trains. Only costs ¥430 and drops you at Gion-Shijo/Ōebashi station. Dont be confused if you think you need a reservation, only the premium seats require that. Just take any seat you can find.

 

##**Kyoto** ^May ^23-26

#**Gion**

Was really unsure whether to go to Hakone and stay in a traditional Ryokan or not but instead opted to rent a traditional Japanese home in Gion instead, much to the delight of my bank account – Hakone Onsen Ryokans are £££££. Loved our house, had the Tammi mats and a view of the local temple gardens.

Gion was beautiful but also consumed with tourists, however everyone seemed very respectful in comparison to other popular tourist magnets.
Was fortunate to catch the last day of performances at [Pontochô Kaburenjô](https://goo.gl/maps/RTs1Epfkom8hCEwM6). Drank like a local along the river on a nice day which was very lovely, the river is so clean!

Did two “touristy” things whilst staying here, Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine and Arashiyama. The Tori gate shrine we visited in the late afternoon. Was a little hectic at the beginning but the further we got to the summit the less crowded it became. Once we got down there was hardly anyone left. Couldn’t recommend going later in the afternoon more, you get a great view of Kyoto as the sun starts to set. The hike to the top is a little more than expected, more that my wife was in heeled sandals. Shes a trooper though and scaled it with ease, I would just recommend flat shoes at the minimum.

Arashiyama was fantastic, we went on a really shitty weather day. Which was great as it only attracted the brave. We did the Sagano Scenic Rail which I can’t recommend enough. Pretty spectacular getting out of that first tunnel. We had a massive down pour when going through some valleys, was wild and forever memorable especially all the thick clouds crawling through the valleys.

Bamboo forest was also empty due to the rain but we didnt stay long as how much bamboo can you see?

 

***Notable spots:***

[RUTUBO](https://goo.gl/maps/WWYBsphC4ncpyTen8) This place was swarming with tourists unfortunatley, I guess it comes with the area, however I couldn’t recommend this place enough. Specialising in smoked Izakaya dishes and drinks. Stayed here all evening and loved it.

[Imozou Kyoto Kiyamachi](https://goo.gl/maps/8T4uPYwfAPFmpxnLA) Tried this on a whim and loved it, got a seat upstairs which was a modern traditional Japanese table and booth. Solid food and lots and lots of Sake and Shochu options.

[Hello Dolly](https://goo.gl/maps/ZQwTEyY9bZrz9y9f7) Great cocktail bar with records spinning. Lucky to get a spot as the bartenders are quick to turn people away

 

##**Tokyo** ^May ^26-30

#**Shibuya**

Our final stint, Staying at Shibuya Stream as we hadn’t utilised the area prior due to the fancy pants hotel and jet lag.
This final stretch was to just relax a little but enjoy any spots we potentially missed.
Checked out Harajuku again as we visited on our first day and holy hell, never go on a weekend hahaha.
Escaped by going to Shimokitazawa which has a great vibe, stumbled upon the [Neutral Case craft beer fest](https://www.instagram.com/neutralcase_fest/) which was a score. I found this area better for vintage but still on the more expensive side in the smaller store. Worthy for a visit, would be interesting to see the nightlife here.

We made a friend in Osaka and his girlfriend was performing pole at [THE27CLUB](https://goo.gl/maps/WCQEAo6uebp4Rzwt5) That was SUPER fun, a little expensive, but a great vibe.

 

***Notable spots:***

[Ramen Nagi – Shibuya](https://goo.gl/maps/Um1ooCYRx9Dsd8R86). Ichiran gets all the foreign hype but I actually enjoyed this more (can’t go wrong with either tbf). The host was funny as she screamed orders to the kitchen.

[BEATCAFE](https://goo.gl/maps/JofLQCN6uNWDbXF56) Great genuine dive bar. REALLY loved this place and wish I could have stayed longer but I was cooked.

[WOKINI](https://goo.gl/maps/9SgwjfK3SzJcdmpw6) Another big favourite of the trip, great cocktails and tunes. I was pretty pickled prior to arriving, wish I got in earlier so I could have stayed all night.

[PIZZA SLICE](https://goo.gl/maps/s36o8RGDPz6MXBdQ8) my second only western meal, was hanging out my ass because of above and sought the pizza gods for healing. Tasty slice, could have stuffed my face but said hangover was having other ideas. Great vibe in there and reasonable priced, well compared to London.

[Imahan Honten](https://goo.gl/maps/J7NVUo2fGPLNbcKUA) A friend that we made in Akagaki the week prior married into this family run Sukiyaki restaurant. I’m so glad we did meet her because this was a great swan song. We were given a private room and got the sirloin set. Was unreal! On the expensive side but was an experience I would never forget.

[NEW YORK BAR](https://goo.gl/maps/4jA2bmxdB8fj9vgp9) Got to get my Lost in Translation fix. Pretty exceptional views but also incredibly expensive. Still really enjoyed it but sneaky that tax and service is not included

[CoCo Ichibanya](https://goo.gl/maps/VT7u6YrCm7J4QiCH7) After throwing down at New York Bar its only fair we balanced the scales. I was pleasantly surprised how good this was, I know everyone will throw shade or have better options but for a chain it was shockingly good.

[Bellovisto](https://goo.gl/maps/ZwkQDDXHZjCsvcMt8) We end our holiday with where we started, this time in the roof top bar of Cerulean tower.
I 100% can recommend this over the New York Bar, of course you don’t get the Lost in Translation clout however you get better views cheaper drinks and exceptional service. They had a live piano signer on too. Typically there was a cover charge but its free if you are staying in the hotel – something we only realised when we came back and weren’t guests…..

 

***Last Quick Take*** Go to the flea markets for cheap and unique souvenirs. My wife went to [Odeo Antique Market](https://www.antique-market.jp/english/) and managed to find some bargain Kokeshi dolls and Kimonos. A little more unique than Don Quijote bits, which in the end I thought was a bit of a ripoff.

 

If you made it this far then congratulations. Feel free if you have any questions, I will be happy to share anything coffee, wine, vintage, clothing and craft beer related.

 

Lastly Craft Beer Can shops, found it hard to find can shops for takeaway but loved these two:

[ISETAN CRAFT BEER BAR](https://goo.gl/maps/4Ejzacfpd9bCnUGz8)

[クラフトビール酒屋 threefeet Tokyo 表参道原宿本店](https://goo.gl/maps/PWkURJ3H1JPmfd6b7)