Trip report: 14 days in Tokyo, Nikko, Kyoto, Kanazawa, and Kyushu (40s couple)

My wife and I visited Japan for the first time in late May, and it was the trip of a lifetime. This subreddit provided some great ideas and I’m excited to give back.

We are in are early 40s and were mostly interested in culture, food, and nature, moreso than shrines and temples. Kyushu was the most interesting part of this trip and something I haven’t seen discussed a lot here, but I would highly, highly recommend it if you have the time and don’t mind renting a car.

## Tokyo

We stayed in the Nihonbashi area and appreciated the low-key atmosphere and ease of getting around.

**Day 0:** Landed at HND in the afternoon, got to the hotel, ate dinner, and walked around a little before crashing.

* **Learnings:** If possible, time your airplane sleep so you’re awake for roughly a full day on Japan time. Stay up as late as you can, and drink lots of water. This paid dividends later.
* **Highlights:** [Taniya house-made udon](https://goo.gl/maps/v4crVTMdmjNjirdf7) in Nihonbashi, best I’ve ever had.

**Day 1:** Poked round Nihonbashi, Ginza, and Imperial Palace area, followed by a sumo tournament and wandering the shops underneath Tokyo Station.

* **Learnings:** I wouldn’t call sumo a must, but it was a cool experience. Ginza is a great to visit on Sundays when the main drag is closed to vehicles.
* **Highlights:** [Tsujihan Zeitaku Don](https://goo.gl/maps/LDd2f9J1R2AHT9qR7) was worth the wait (got there 80min before opening and were in the first seating). [Roasted sweet potatoes in Ginza](https://goo.gl/maps/8hcqNjeX4bEBY7Tu6)—which I learned about via this subreddit—were incredible. Tokyo Station shops were total sensory overload and we loved it.

**Day 2:** Day trip to Nikko for temples and waterfalls, then back to Tokyo for dinner.

* **Learnings:** We were torn between day trips out of Tokyo but really loved visiting here. [This site](https://trulytokyo.com/nikko-day-trip-itinerary/) has a really helpful rough itinerary to follow. Buy the bus Free Pass (unlimited on-off) and your temple tickets at the tourist info center.
* **Highlights:** Golden Rinno-ji statues were stunning, the winding bus path to Kegon Falls was wild, and the clouds parted just as we reached the falls for an incredible view. [This place that serves yuba](https://goo.gl/maps/aY2KW7HaMY9yusut9) (soymilk skin, way better than it sounds) overlooking the river was an experience unto itself. [Sushi no Midori Ginza](https://goo.gl/maps/Gyju62jZzdVFksxB9) was less than $50 for two people with beers and was better than 99% of sushi I’ve had in the U.S.

**Day 3:** Akihabara (Yodobashi and arcades), sake tasting, splurge dinner

* **Highlights:** The [Japan Sake & Shochu Information Center](https://goo.gl/maps/vpjuiFCVeFMjbZeQ9) is a low-key place to try a huge selection of sakes and buy some bottles. Amazing kobe-centric dinner at [Ginza Ishizaki](https://goo.gl/maps/Hnzu8vw8XzGMSTwF7), the chef is a cool dude who prepares everything directly across the counter from you.

## Tokyo → Kyoto/Osaka

**Day 4:** Tsukiji Outer Market, then to Kyoto via the shinkansen. We stayed near Nishiki Market, which worked out well location-wise.

* **Learnings:** We thought Tsukiji was overpriced and a little underwhelming—seems like mainly a tourist attraction—but it was a Wednesday and many stalls were closed so YMMV.
* **Highlights:** Lovely walk back along the river back to our hotel in Nihonbashi, just admiring the quiet atmosphere and architecture. Fluffy pancake dinner at A Happy Pancake’s Kyoto location. (Consider [making reservations](https://magia.tokyo/).)

**Day 5:** Day trip to Kanazawa, about two hours north on the JR Thunderbird, then back to Kyoto for dinner and drinks.

* **Learnings:** Beautiful area that I don’t regret visiting, but in hindsight we might’ve skipped it to get more time in Kyoto proper. (Weren’t interested in Nara; plenty of deer back here at home.) Tsukemen is pronounced “ts-kemen” with just the faintest “uh” between the syllables. Oops.
* **Highlights:** Strolling the Kenroku-en garden, checking out the preserved Edo-period streets. Delicious tsukemen at the teeny tiny [Tsuke-men Tsurukame Main Shop](https://goo.gl/maps/ASULLPaU7Z1zGP6D7). Super unique cocktails and pleasant conversation with the friendly bartender at [Bar Ixey](https://goo.gl/maps/6hDeStdR1DQeAvRcA).

**Day 6:** Arashiyama in the morning, then Osaka for Nintendo World, Shinsaibashi-Suji shopping, and Dotonburi. We had tickets for a Hanshin Tigers game as well but it poured all day and got rained out 🙁

* **Learnings:** The bamboo forest itself was sort of a letdown—pretty, but not much room for exploration—but there’s lots of nice hiking around that area after getting through the bamboo part. Also, Kyoto to Osaka is super easy even without the shinkansen. The Hankyu line gets you there in about an hour with just a Suica card and no reservations.
* **Highlights:** Hiking to a beautiful view of the Katsura river and surroundings. More sensory overload in Osaka Dotonburi and delicious okonomiyaki at [Creo-ru](https://goo.gl/maps/91CJch3KW8TreJro7), plus melon bread with ice cream.

**Day 7:** Biking along the Kamo river, visiting the Ginkaku-ji and Philosopher’s Path, meeting with an old acquaintance.

* **Learnings:** [Bicycle Rental EMUSICA Demachiyanagi](https://goo.gl/maps/nZqxgS3dc1N5A1627) has full-day basic bike rentals for like $8 and you can easily explore large chunks of Kyoto this way. Wish we’d blocked out even more time for this.
* **Highlights:** Discovering delicious baked goods at [Bon Appetit](https://goo.gl/maps/4KgNiDATdVGKYma39), plus Ginkaku-ji seems crafted to provide stunning views without people in them.

## Kyoto → Kyushu

**Day 8:** Checked out and hopped on the bullet train to Fukuoka. Picked up our rental car at nearby Fukuoka Airport and made the two-hour drive to Kurokawa Onsen, a small hot spring and ryokan town near Mt. Aso.

* **Learnings:** Request an ETC toll card at the rental counter unless you want to burn your precious cash on tolls. Driving was a little nerve-wracking (narrow roads and being on the left side) but also kind of fun, and the scenery is gorgeous. The turn signal’s on your right hand, so accidental windshield wiping is to be expected.
* **Highlights:** [Kurokawa Onsen Oyado Noshiyu](https://goo.gl/maps/o4fWGhKzh6t3uc8x8) was like nothing else we’ve experienced. The grounds are beautiful and secluded, the kaiseki dinner was delicious, and onsen hopping was totally relaxing especially after the whirlwind of Tokyo and Kyoto. They also have this charming little unstaffed lounge area where you serve yourself beer while really good jazz plays on hi-fi speakers.

**Day 9:** Checked out of the ryokan and drove to Takachiho Gorge. Stopped by [Daikanbo Lookout](https://goo.gl/maps/N2qnUmoeQbDd2c487) on the way back before staying at [Kurokawa Onsen Okonoyu](https://goo.gl/maps/of7K6FwTxuEacBrj9).

* **Learnings:** [Reserve a boat ride](https://takachiho-kanko.info/en/boat_kagura/) in Takachiho to avoid waiting, as there isn’t a ton to do there in the meantime. Dinner can also be tricky around here if you’re not eating at your ryokan as most spots in Kurokawa close up at 5. Fortunately [Iroriya Izakaya](https://goo.gl/maps/XdtLciCCXKP2sPco7) was open and we had a nice, laid back meal instead of another kaiseki.
* **Highlights:** The gorge was beautiful but Daikanbo was the real showstopper. I’ve never seen anything like it, and there are lots of cool little pathways you can walk down where you get some awe-inspiring views. Huge thanks to u/deathw1ll for mentioning this.

**Day 10:** Lingered at the ryokan and got some more onsen time after breakfast as it was pouring outside. Got to “Palm Beach” in Itoshima in the late afternoon when the rain cleared up, then spent the night eating and drinking in Fukuoka.

* **Learnings:** If you’re used to American beaches these are much quieter. Fukuoka is a blast and seems to have a more laid back vibe than Tokyo/Kyoto.
* **Highlights:** Stopping in Hita for [excellent stir-fried yakisoba](https://goo.gl/maps/ScdrhLiggeYkfLLaA). Spicy ramen at [Ramen Isshi](https://goo.gl/maps/36M9UtEcMZ23ToRt6), the “jazz kissa” experience at [JAB](https://goo.gl/maps/KQwX5eKUiWJHffW19), meeting Goodie, whose [bar in Fukuoka](https://goo.gl/maps/32MzdQz5BAisc3m6A) became known as a hangout for touring soul musicians in the 70s and 80s. Super nice guy, grew up in Fukuoka, has pictures/signatures with music legends all over the place. Amazing!

## Kyushu → Tokyo

**Day 11:** Returned the rental car and flew back to Tokyo, spent the evening in Shinjuku.

* **Learnings:** If you’re flying domestic, pay super close attention to the boarding gate or set an alarm for your boarding time. The process moves quickly and you might tune out the announcement because it’s in Japanese. We almost missed it! Also Don Quijote is a good spot to buy luggage if you run out of space for souvenirs. (We got a carry-on for about $50.)
* **Highlights:** Making friends over yakitori in piss alley. Golden Gai looked like fun as we walked through, but at that point we were too wiped out for more drinking.

**Day 12:** Last full day, my wife and I decided to split up for part of the time so she could shop in Harajuku and Shibuya, and I could do more nerd stuff in Akihabara. Highly recommend this if you’re traveling with someone whose interests don’t 100% align with your own.

* **Learnings:** Happy accident, but saving the last day for shopping and whatnot was a great laid back way to end the trip and spared us from having to lug everything around the country.
* **Highlights:** Conveyor belt sushi at [Katsumidori Seibu](https://goo.gl/maps/VXrijrNGaRikcwSF9) (prime eel was soo good), Italian-Japanese fusion at [selsalsale](https://goo.gl/maps/VT4p7K8SFaXjKRgw7), buying gifts at [Super Potato](https://goo.gl/maps/RthQSdmgmA4t2LEZ9) and gorging on arcade games I’ve never played before at [HEY](https://goo.gl/maps/KNq8qCmMyJSeBfA57). Also Tower Records in Shibuya, where CD sales are alive and well? I spent a solid hour using the listening stations and buying some albums for my Plex server.

**Day 13:** Just packing, last-minute shopping, and lunch before heading out to NRT for our late afternoon flight home.

* **Learnings:** We stayed near Tokyo Skytree, whose Solamachi mall seems largely tailored toward people in need of gifts. Wish we’d realized this sooner. Also we arrived at NRT about 2.5 hours before our flight and it was more than enough time. Bag drop-off, customs, and security took maybe 45 min total?
* **Highlights:** The [Ganso Sample Store](https://www.ganso-sample.com/en/shop/solamachi/) is great if you want to buy replica food for someone and can’t make it out to Kappabashi. Great tsukemen for our last lunch at [Rokurinsha](https://goo.gl/maps/Lj2WoGarhcGDgTdy8).

## Stray thoughts:

* [Adding Suica cards to Apple Wallet](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207155) worked out really well for the trains. I also used the titanium Apple Card a lot, as few places accept Apple Pay and my other cards have foreign transaction fees. We bought [Mobal SIM cards](https://www.notion.so/Japan-5d795f102c8846e8bcde17f06b716624?pvs=21) in advance and those worked out well also.
* It was true in our experience that conversational English was not widely spoken, but most folks in the service industry knew enough to complete the transaction, Google Translate seldom needed. Learning some Japanese phrases is more of a bonus if you want to be polite and whatnot.
* We didn’t bother with luggage services and I think this was the right call. The shinkansen have ample overhead space for medium-sized suitcases, and getting a taxi between the train station and your hotel isn’t any more expensive than forwarding, plus you have your bags the whole time.
* Speaking of which, Uber is widely available in Japan now. Hailing a cab seems to be cheaper but may require you to pay cash and navigate language barriers.
* I don’t know if it’s a post-COVID thing or just time of year (almost start of rainy season), but a lot of places were much less crowded than we expected. In some cases we anticipated being surrounded by people and instead were totally alone. Hotels and food were also more reasonable than we anticipated (current exchange rates may be a factor there as well).
* Didn’t mention CoCoIchi but we had it twice and it might be the best comfort food ever.
* My mnemonic device for remembering which Tokyo airport is which: HND comes first alphabetically and is closer, NRT is the far one.
* We splurged on the green car for our JR pass and it was nice. Consider it if you’re getting up early for day trips and want to comfortably catch some extra Zs on the train.
* It’s easy to point to specific activities when people ask about highlights, but honestly one of the best parts of the trip was **just being there**. Every place we went was full of interesting sights, beautiful surroundings, and delicious food, and I had a great time just riding the trains, looking around, and seeing how people live in a completely different part of the world.

Got questions? Let me know! I am officially The Dude That Wants to Talk to People About Visiting Japan now.