Trip Report: Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Lake Lawaguchiko

\*EDIT\*: Title has a Typo, should say Lake Kawaguchiko!

Hi everyone,

I returned last weekend from an amazing 14 day trip to Japan with my mother (60s). We had an amazing time and had no bad food in my opinion. We went for my birthday. I had been back in Dec 2017/Jan 2018, and this was my mom’s first time. This sub was super helpful with making an obtainable itinerary for us.

**Preparations/Tips:**\-We booked everything starting in about April of this year. Hotels and flights we used a combination of credit card points and cash.

\-The night before we left, we got our Suica cards on our iPhones and filled out the Visit Japan Web form. People were filling out the form in the customs line and it was making the line move super slowly.

\-We did not do a JR pass, found the Suica cards on our phones worked perfectly and Google Maps was helpful.

\-Very easy to buy our Shinkansen tickets on Klook.

\-I tried getting tickets to the Ghibli Museum but failed miserably

\-Yes cash is important to have, but also try getting rid of your 500 yen coins fast. We had a lot of issues with certain machines saying they would accept the coins but not actually accept them (looking at you Fujikyu railway limited express ticket machine…)

\-I did a bit of Duolingo before leaving just to have some knowledge and my mom knew absolutely no Japansese. We got around just fine and everyone was super friendly and willing to help us.

\-Something else I did was save all the restaurants/bars I found here/TikTok/Blogs/My Last Trip and put them all on a saved Google Map list – I could open Maps and see all the places near me that I had saved, which really was helpful for a few meals.

\-We opted to use our Verizon Wireless travel pass at $10 a day – we didn’t use that much data, just Maps/NYT Games (gotta have our wordle battles!)/iMessage.

\-Get a fast portable charger for your phone. I drained so much of my battery since I took 100+ photos every day.

\-Buy a hand towel in Japan. We bought ours day one at Kiddieland since a lot of places don’t have hand towels.

Here is my more detailed report:

**Saturday 10/7 / Sunday 10/8**Flew Delta One direct into Haneda from LAX (had a great upgrade deal). Got to the airport, did the Visit Japan Web form the night before so customs and baggage was pretty easy but the line did move slowly with people filling it out in line. Got in a taxi and we checked into Kimpton Shinjuku Tokyo. Only waited a bit for our room. Unpacked and explored Shinjuku and it started to rain so we bought our 1st Umbrella at Family Mart. Fuunji Ramen for dinner – absolutely delicious. Crashed at the hotel.Dinner: Fuunji Ramen

**Monday 10/9**

Sports day. Started the day by buying my umbrella at Family Mart as it was pouring rain. Went to Hoshino coffee for breakfast. I had the Eggsult and mom had the pancakes. We then walked through Yoyogi to Meiji Shrine. We saw a wedding! I replaced some of my amulets from the last trip. We walked to Harajuku, window shopped and then stumbled upon Gyukatsu for lunch. Worth the wait! Went to KiddieLand where I bought hand towels/gifts and then we went to Shibuya. We had strawberry shortcake and iced lattes before hitting up the Nintendo Store and Pokemon Store and Jump shop. I stopped at Family Mart for a Natto Roll. We couldn’t decide on dinner because most of it was closed for Sports Day so we just went to 7-11.Steps Walked: 17,631 steps / 8.08mi

Breakfast: Hoshino Coffee

Lunch: GyuKatsu

Coffee/Treat: GG Shibuya Mobile esports cafe & bar

Dinner: 7-11

**Tuesday 10/10**

Jam packed day! Started out with breakfast at the hotel restaurant, The District. I had their Japanese meal set. Service was not very good but the food was incredible. Walked to Yanaka Ginza, did a bit of shopping and wandering. Got to see my first stray cat of the trip. We then went to Ueno and stopped for coffee at Tully’s and shared a savory ragu donut since we weren’t very hungry. Then it was off to Sensoji and the Nakamise market place that surrounded it. We got Taiyaki and split a meat croquette. Not super hungry yet. Sensoji was lovely and we then walked to SkyTree where we had reservations. Started to rain right before we went up, but stopped when we were at the top. Got our photo taken and saw Tokyo at night. Had Kura Revolving Sushi for dinner as it’s the biggest one in the world and I’m a huge fan of the one in the US. Better and cheaper than the US. Every time you submitted 15 plates, they played the graduation song. All drinks were delivered over the upper belt which is different than the ones in the US. Akihabara was next. We walked around and I played a crane game where I won a small Korok bag. Did my first Donki run and got treats. Stopped at 7-11 for dessert on the way back and I got an apple pie bar.

Steps Walked: 24,387 steps / 10.72mi

Breakfast: The District

Lunch: Tully’s

Coffee/Treat: Tully’s / Nakamise Market

Dinner: Kura Revolving Sushi

**Wednesday 10/11**

Started with 7-11 breakfast. Mom got to try the famed Egg Salad Sando and also had some pancakes. I had a banana too and we had some coffee drinks. Started out Tsukiji outer market and we had some chicken yakitori. Explored a bit and I found the omakase I had from last time, Shutoku Ganso. Waited for an hour to sit. Extremely worth it. Best was the uni! We got the mid priced tier and some sake, only people to do both those things. Bought some wasabi graters. We then walked to Ginza and shopped at the Uniqlo flagship store. So cool that it’s 12 stories. We then got a treat/coffee at one of the cafes in Mitsukoshi Ginza and I had a pumpkin tart. Went to Itoya and Tokyu hands before I burned out from shopping. Went to rest at the hotel and wanted we pizza. Place we originally planned to go closed too early for us to make it, so we set out and found another place near the hotel that was fully booked. I googled Italian Restaurant near me and we found a great place called TreVite. Just opened in July 2023 we had a great meal with some of the best Italian food I’ve ever had and my uni pasta was better than what I had in Puglia just last summer.

Steps Walked: 15,179 steps / 6.84 mi

Breakfast: 7-11

Lunch: Shutoku ganso

Coffee/Treat: Mitsukoshi Ginza

Dinner: TreVite

**Thursday 10/12**

DisneySea Day! Started out early and we tried to go to 7-11 for breakfast, but the eat in area did not open until 8AM so we went to Doutor. I had a ham sandwich and my mom had an egg sandwich. Took the train to Disney. So much easier than getting to Disney in the US! Lines were pretty long but it was all orderly. First got some black pepper popcorn and a cute bucket, and then we went on Journey to the Center of the Earth, Raging Spirits, Sinbad’s Voyage (which had a very confusing story) and then went to Sebastian’s Calypso Kitchen where we had some soup, calzone, and fries! Did Indiana Jones and Aquatopia and then went to Cafe Portofino for dinner where I had a half chicken plate and my mom had pesto pasta. We then went to Zambini Brothers for dessert – had to have the alien mochi and my mom had a churro! Did some shopping and we headed back to Tokyo after a long & fun day. Packed our suitcases before sending them on Friday.

Steps Walked: 16,717 steps / 7.53 mi

Breakfast: Doutor

Lunch: Sebastian’s Calypso Kitchen

Coffee/Treat: N/A

Dinner: Cafe Portofino

**Friday 10/13**

Last day in Tokyo! Did The Jones for Breakfast in our hotel after getting our suitcases forwarded to the next location. Headed out to Gotokuji temple (Lucky Cat temple) and it was worth it as two cat people. Made our way to lunch where we had prebooked an Omakase. We had a ton of delicious sushi but we were so full at the end I had to tell them to stop. Went back to the hotel to rest and my mom went to the Government Building. I met my friend who was in town for drinks at our hotel (The Brasserie) and then we went to The Park Hyatt New York Bar from Lost in Translation. We then went to Karaokeken for dinner/karaoke. Fun night before we head to Kyoto in the AM.

Steps Walked: 16,174 steps / 7.22 mi

Breakfast: The Jones

Lunch: Shibuya Sushi Ten

Coffee/Treat: N/A

Dinner: Karaokekan Kabukicho Honten

**Saturday 10/14**

Up early to get our Shinkansen. Had breakfast at Curly’s croissant and then got our bentos at Ekibenya Matsuri. While on the Shinkansen we went up to 200km according to the phone on the dude next to us. I had a bit of my bento but I ended up actually getting motion sickness. We got to Kyoto and we booked it to the hotel where I could change because I didn’t bring a 2nd pair of pants on the train with me. Couldn’t check into the Ace Hotel Kyoto just yet, so I changed in the bathroom. We walked to the Imperial Palace after I stopped at 7-11 for a Pocari Sweat and some rice cakes. Stomach finally settled and we were able to check in when we got back. We walked to the Nishiki marketplace for dinner and it started to rain. We had shrimp tempura, gyoza, grilled eel, and takoyaki. Hunger not satiated, and wanting a break from the rain after wandering Pontocho, we had some Udon at Menbou Miyoshi. Hit the spot! Walked back to the hotel and my mom went to Lawson as I rested for a sweet treat.

Steps Walked: 17,173 steps / 7.57 mi

Breakfast: Curly’s Croissant

Lunch: Ekibenya Matsuri

Coffee/Treat: N/A

Dinner: Nishiki Market / Menbou Miyoshi

**Sunday 10/15**

Big walking day. Started out a Matsunosuke Cafe – went there last time I was in Kyoto and it did not disappoint for round 2. Both of us had pancakes and split a scone. Was another long walking day. Started out at Kiyomizu-dera – a beautiful temple and UNESCO world heritage site. We had the blessed water and then went shopping/eating down Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka streets. I had a pickle (I’m truly a pickle gal), chestnuts, and kaarage. I bought some items at the studio Ghibli store and we got customized chopsticks for my sister and her partner. We went to the Starbucks on Ninenzaka since it’s in an original Kyoto building. I had an iced coffee and a special halloween cupcake. Walked through the park and we tried going to another temple but it was closed for renovations. Made our way to Fushimi Inari shrine at golden hour. Got about halfway up the trail, my favorite part was all the cats and how expensive water got every vending machine up the hill. Went back to the hotel and we asked if they could make a reservation at a Yakiniku place, but it was a Sunday night so we were SOL. The hotel staff, made a reservation for the following day and found us an okonomiyaki place for dinner. At the restaurant we had grilled veggies and yakisoba, and of course two kinds of Okonomiyaki.. Went to Lawson’s for another sweet treat, I got small candy.

Steps Walked: 21,347 steps / 9.41 mi

Breakfast: Matsunoke Cafe

Lunch: Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka streets

Coffee/Treat: StarbucksDinner: Manmaru No Tsuki

**Monday 10/16**

Went to Nara! Started the day started at Stumptown in our hotel. Took the train out to Nara almost directly from our hotel which was nice. First arrived we really saw how many deer there are in Nara. Went to Todai-ji Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) where they were having a commemorative event that happens every 150 years (according to our tour guide the next day). We next went to Tamukeyama. I fed the deer and they tried eating my pants if I didn’t give them the crackers in time and didn’t bow because they wanted crackers so bad! Saw Mount Wakusa and then off to Kasuga Taisha Shrine. Gorgeous shrine in the middle of Nara. My mom then fed the deer and got them to bow – show off. We then made our way back into the main area. I really wanted to get Mochi at Nakatanidou but the line was too long so we’d thought we would come back after lunch. I found a soba place and we got the lunch set. Went out to get mochi and the stand was sold out and closed! Bummer. But I got Daifuku at Daibutsu Ichigo and we shopped a bit at a cute local shop I can’t remember the name of, Animate, Daiso, and then got coffee at Rokumei. Headed back to Kyoto for dinner at KINOE. Best Tartare I’ve had and melt in your mouth wagyu. Stopped at 7-11 for a sweet treat where I got chocolate covered bananas.

Steps Walked: 18,752 steps / 8.29 mi

Breakfast: Stumptown

Lunch: Sarasoba Bunraku Nara-higasimukidori

Coffee/Treat: Daibutsu Ichigo / Rokumei Coffee

Dinner: KINOE

**Tuesday 10/17**

Went to Sentido near our hotel for breakfast. I had an egg salad sando and an olive and cheese sando and an iced latte. Headed to Arashiyama and we took a streetcar where they gave us a survey to fill out about the train. Started out at Tenryu-ji temple which had an incredible garden. Then walked through the park and headed up to the monkey park. Steep climb but worth it for the views of Kyoto and the monkeys who you cannot look in the eye. There is a cage where you can go and feed them which I did and it went much better than the deer. Had delicious curry near the train station. Back to the hotel to rest before our bar tour and pack our suitcases to send to Tokyo the next day. I booked a bar tour through Pontocho through Magical Tour. We did the photobooth at the Hotel and met Nobu, our guide, at the statue of Izumo-no Okuni. First stop was Kiyokiyo where I had a fruit seltzer drink and spicy cod roe omelet. Second stop was Kyoto Obanzai Jirokutei for sake tasting where I had sake and my mom had the sake flight. I also had the vegetarian dish. Last was Kashira where the bartender drew on all the napkins. I took a Snoopy one! Had a delicious apple liquor and then had some marinated cucumbers. We walked back to the hotel. What a fun evening!

Steps Walked: 20,870 steps / 9.34 mi

Breakfast: Sentido
Lunch: Arashiyama Curry

Coffee/Treat: N/A

Dinner: Kiyokiyo / Kyoto Obanzai Jirokutei / Kashira

**Wednesday 10/18**

Osaka day! First we met up with the hotel staff with our suitcases to send back to Tokyo. We had Lawson’s for breakfast where my mom tried melon pan for the first time. We made it to Osaka and we started at the Castle and the surrounding park. We went to the Parco there and shopped at Tokyu Hands and the Ghibli shop. We made our way over to Dotonbori and got our photos with the Gilco man and had some takoyaki for lunch at two different locations. Hard to find bad takoyaki. We got some Cremia ice cream (best ice cream ever) and went on a river cruise that was short and sweet. We made our way over to the kitchen street where we got some more gifts for Halli and Graham and ourselves. We then walked over to Den Den Town and went into a cool retro gaming shop. We made our way back to the station and first went to Hanshin department store so I could get a baseball gift for a friend. We got hangry and went to Hankyu and found revolving sushi for dinner. Wasn’t truly revolving but we could order from an iPad. Absolutely spectacular though – some of the best sushi of the trip. Headed back to Kyoto on a crowded train.

Steps Walked: 23,741 steps / 10.34 mi

Breakfast: Lawson’s

Lunch: Dontombori

Coffee/Treat: Cremia

Dinner: Edomae kaitenzushi Kishu Yaichi Umeda

**Thursday 10/19**

Happy birthday to me! We checked out of the hotel and made our way to Kyoto Station where we had Hoshino for breakfast and we both got the eggsult. No Ekiben for me this time and we had some snacks as a back up from 7-11 (consume corn chips and cheese snacks). First train was to Yokohama. In Yokohama I stopped for Onigiri (umeboshi for me, tuna mayo for mom). We should have done our Suicas there but apparently it didn’t mark that we started a trip in Yokohama. In Hachioji we had our onigiri. From Hachioji we went to Ostuki and paid for a rapid train on the train. So easy with Suica! We made it to Ostuki and tried to get on the Fujikyu railway but our Suica’s didn’t work because it didn’t register how we got to Ostuki. We were able to fix it at the ticket office and we bought our limited express tickets after fumbling with the machine. The doors closed just before we were going to get on, but then they opened them for us. We saw Fuji in all it’s glory, a beautiful train ride. Made it to the Kawaguchiko station and had the info center call our hotel who picked us up within 5 minutes. Got to the hotel (Fuji Kawaguchiko Onsen Hotel Konansou) and checked in. Our room had a great view of the mountain and a private onsen. We decided to try to get on the ropeway, but then it closed by the time we got there. We walked around the lake for a bit and stopped for cheesecake. We tried 3 different types and had some coffee. Back at the hotel, we went to the footbath and soaked while wearing our yukatas with the view of the mountain. We rested until dinner, which was a kaiseki meal served in our room with fresh water from the mountain. Everything was delicious. I digested a bit and then headed to the public bath while my mom soaked in the private one in our room. I soaked for about an hour in different tubs and got a mango popsicle when done. My mom enjoyed the soaking too. They set up our beds around 10p and promptly we passed out.

Steps Walked: 6,001 steps / 2.69 mi

Breakfast: Hoshino

Lunch: Onigiri from train station

Coffee/Treat: Kawaguchiko Cheesecake Garden

Dinner: Fuji Kawaguchiko Onsen Hotel Konansou

**Friday 10/20**

Woke up and hit the breakfast buffet. I finally got to have a natto bowl for breakfast and a few other random assortments. Coffee was awful. Went to the gift shop and I bought a yukata and some treats for my cat sitter. We checked out and left our luggage there so we could go on the ropeway. We got there just as it opened and had no line. BEAUTIFUL CLEAR DAY! We wandered around the top of the ropeway and took a ton of photos. Went to the gift shop at the top of the mountain and then when we got down, the line was over an hour long. Hit up Lawson’s for some more onigiri to go. Fujikyu to Ostuki, and we ate our onigiri in Ostuki. Ostuki to Takao where there were some delays, and then Takao to Tokyo station where I did fall asleep on the train. We got through Tokyo station. We walked to our hotel and checked in (Courtyard Marriott Tokyo Station). Got to the room and our bags were there! I was in desperate need of non-shitty coffee so we had coffee and apple pie at GGCo in the building of our hotel. We walked to the imperial palace and the gardens around it. For dinner, we found a tonkatsu place in Tokyo station that was absolutely delicious. I had a katsudon. We walked and my mom had her last sweet treat before we re-packed again.

Steps Walked: 16,001 steps / 2.69 mi

Breakfast: Fuji Kawaguchiko Onsen Hotel Konansou

Lunch: Onigiri from Lawson

Coffee/Treat: GGCo. Café & Bakery

Dinner: Tonkatsu Suzuki

**Saturday 10/21**

Last day. We went to Centre The Bakery for breakfast, a place I found on TikTok where you can toast bread at your table. I had the toast set and my mom had the eggs benedict and we split the french toast. The best french toast of my life. So good we had to buy a loaf of bread each to take home. We were instructed to put the bread in a plastic bag if going on an airplane. We realized we had no plastic bags so we found a store that sells ziploc bags. When we got back to our room we realized they provided the bag and a tie at the bottom of the bag. We grabbed our things and hailed a cab to the airport. Easy check in and both my bags were under the weight limit. We walked through the shopping area and sat out on the observation deck. I went to Donki one last time and then we went through customs and security. We hit up the Delta Lounge and it was super crowded but I got to have the ramen bar! We parted ways with my mom as we were on different flights and I got on my flight. What a wonderful trip!

Steps Walked: 3,395 steps / 1.61 mi

Breakfast: Centre the Bakery

Lunch: Delta Lounge

Coffee/Treat: N/A

Dinner: Delta Flight